[Nathaniel Firethorn]

Hi, all,

What should I be checking for, in deciding whether to buy a used O/U?

Thanks,
- pdmoderator

[bamf]

One thing to check for is the locking lever.
If it's pointing offcenter to the right, all is well...

Center, it's ok but will need to be rebuilt in the near future {how soon it will depend on the manufacturer}

Offcenter to the left, it's bad, avoid unless you get a killer deal and factor in having some gunsmith to work on it to get it back to spec.

Another is to check the barrels for any bulges or bends, also a good idea if it has choke tubes make sure they aren't frozen in the barrels.

HTH

[Dave McCracken]

Besides the good points bamf stated....

Close the thing after ensuring it's empty, and look at the breech from the side with light behind it. Seeing the light may mean headspace probs. A piece of Scotch tape across the breech should stop it from locking shut, also. If not, headspace may not be safe.

Same idea, close the thing and remove the forend assembly. See if the barrels and stock rattle when shaken lightly.

Examine the breech face around the firing pin holes and see if there's peening.

And most importantly, check the ring of the barrels. Take the thing down to the usual 3 pieces. Hang the barrel lug off your finger or a loop of string and tap the barrels with a non marring object like a plastic chopstick or pencil. If the soldering is intact, the sound heard should be a clear ring. Buzzes and/or a dull thud means things are coming apart. Very expensive to fix.

HTH....

[HSMITH]

The locking lever trick works on Brownings and crossbolt types like the SKB. Ruger and Beretta will often be at center right out of the box, and 100K rounds later as well. There are several more locking systems in use currently.

There are ways to make the locking lever look better than the true condition of the gun also that are pretty simple and easy.

Short version is don't trust the locking lever.

If you are going to spend a grand on an O/U and don't know what to look for take it somewhere they do know what to look for. If you can't get a 3 day inspection period on a $1000 and up gun you don't want to buy it from a dealer. It is also a BAD sign if coming from a private individual and he won't meet you at the club to put a box through it for free or a very nominal fee.

The only way to be 100% sure is to buy from someone you know and trust, or buy new. O/U shotguns are too diverse to have a simple checklist to go through like a revolver or a bolt action rifle.

[45auto]

Not being a gunsmith, but having bought more used O/U's than I needed, the only additional advice is be careful of any bbls that have been cut, altered, rechoked, etc. In fact, I would pattern the gun in the trial period to make sure it, at least, has the correct POI. This mistake cost me a lot of money once... and never again.

As mentioned above, I wouldn't buy any gun without a inspection period. Not even a "new" one if I sent away for it.

The good news is most good O/U's are well made and make very good used buys. Most people don't shoot enough rounds through a single shotgun to come close to "wearing it out". And they require minimal care, so someone really has to "work" on one to mess it up.

[PJR]

All of the above are good points. I would also have a couple of snap caps in my pocket to test triggers and ejectors. If the gun has a selectable trigger test the triggers with the selector in both positions.

The position of the top lever is only one point to consider. Push the lever all the way to the right and let it spring shut. Sometimes the top lever springs can get weak and need replacing. The lever should snap shut with some vigor.

Take a look at the breech face for any pitting. The breech face is very easy to clean and when I see pitting of other problems I wonder what else is wrong inside the gun.

Check the bearing surfaces on the receiver and the barrel for undue signs of wear. There will be some, but it should be even on both sides and not deep.

As noted check the barrels for dents and dings. Look inside for pitting and insist the barrels be clean before you do. I have seen less than honest sellers attempt to hide corrosion by leaving powder residue in the barrels.

Check the stock for cracks, paying particular attention to any place where metal meets wood particularly on the top tang.

If it's a used gun in a private deal insist that you be able to shoot it. If the seller refuses, walk away. From a dealer, ask to shoot the gun too and if it's not convenient ask them for an inspection period. My favorite gun shop has a shooting range in back and will let me check for barrel regulation before buying.

Now for the most important point. There are millions of guns out there and the one in your hands is but one of them. Be stern in your approach to the gun. Don't every be swayed by the seller saying "well you can fix that" if you see a problem. Been there, done that and probably paid at least one semester's tuition for my gunsmith's daughter. One particular gun in my past provided an education for both her and me.

Paul

[Traveler]

Barrels, it's mostly barrels. The cost of rebarreling even a new gun can be more than the retail cost of the gun.

Look at the outside surface. It should be smooth. If it has ripples in the finish somebody has (probably) refinished it and done a poor job polishing it (at a minimum). Run your fingers down the length of the barrel. You should not feel any swelling or indents.

Look carefully at the engraving. If it is not clean and sharp it has been reblued. This is not always a bad thing, but it may have been blued wrong. Look for any sign of salts around the rib, breech, muzzle and any other joints. If there is any discoloration or weeping walk away.

If you can see any solder at a joint walk away. Good makers will have removed any excess solder prior to finishing the barrels.

If the muzzle has an open space between the barrels walk away.

If the barrels are not exactly measured to the inch be very careful. Some were made to 1/2" lengths, but they are rare. Even less likely is the measurement in a length other than inches.

Pay particular attention to the chamber end. Monoblocks have been known to come loose, and that's just plain dangerous.

Look down the barrel. If there are any dark rings other than the forceing cone and choke walk away.

Look at the rib. The front sight should be correct. The mid sight, if there is one, should not stick through. It should be sited over a post. (This is a common mistake of poor gunsmiths.)

Look at the extractors or ejectors. They should have well defined lips for the shells. IF they are loose when down in position, or are too rounded the shell rims will not catch, and you'll end up with a jammed case. Make sure they fit flush with the block when down also. replacements sometimes will not.

Put the barrels and action together, leaving off the forearm. Hold the action so that your hand is tight over the breech. slightly shake the gun. If they are loose you will feel the movement at the breech. (I find that listening is not as sure, as some components will make noise).

All of that can be done without any tools, and should be done for any used shotgun. If I get more time I add on somethings for actions.

[Nathaniel Firethorn]

Thanks for your help, everyone! I've condensed the wisdom down to a checklist.

- pdmoderator

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Used Over/Under Shotgun Checklist

[] Locking lever pointing right. (Not infalliable.)

[] Choke tubes not frozen

[] Shine light behind receiver - should not see light through any
cracks (headspace problems)

[] Remove forend, shake, check for rattles

[] Check breech face for pitting, peening around firing pin holes

[] Check bearing surfaces for uneven or excessive wear

[] Barrels: No bulges or bends. Smoth outside surface. Even blueing.

[] Measure length of the barrels. Should be an even inch increment.

[] Look inside barrels. Check for pitting and dark rings. Insist that barrels be clean.

[] Check the "ring" of the barrels. Take off barrels, hang by lug, tap
with a pen or similar. Barrels should ring clearly.

[] Test trigger with selector in both positions.

[] Check that ejectors are not rounded. Test ejector with a snap cap.

[] Ask to shoot the gun. Walk away if refused.