Grip safety not working.


October 16, 2010, 10:36 AM
Hi,I have a Colt series 80 custom Delta elite converted to 45 acp with a Ed Brown stainless grip safety that the hammer falls when not depressed and you pull the trigger. How do I fix this problem?The safety is fitted to the frame so I really don't want to replace the grip safety unless I have no other choice.

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October 16, 2010, 11:07 AM
Ive had a few 1911's over the years that had the same problem, and the problem on everyone of them, was the grip safety itself. All had to be replaced.

If you had the work done, I'd take it back to whoever did the work and ask them to correct it. If not, then I suppose you'll have to find someone to do it if youre not comfortable doing it.

October 16, 2010, 04:41 PM
I would also recommend taking it back to the smith/person/butcher who fitted it and see if they'll make it right for you.

Unfortunately the problem is that too much material was removed from the part when it was fitted. While it is possible to weld on more material, the correct fix is to replace the part and have it refitted to the frame

Mac's Precision
October 16, 2010, 06:03 PM
It is possible to peen the finger on the grip safety to stretch it's length. This only applies if it is missing by just a few thousands of an inch. If your grip safety is fitted to the frame and blended I can see where you wouldn't want to change it out. I would look at peening or tig welding the finger. I have done both with great results. If it hasn't been blended then it would be less of an issue to replace it. Over aggressive file work is at hand here...simply shortened the part too much when fitting. Depending on how he fit the finger he may have done it wrong and the trigger is able to push the finger out of the way. Examine the grip safety and observe if it moves when the trigger is pulled. If it does he may have put an inclined plane on the safety finger and there is inadequate positive engagement. As such the trigger may be able to make it disengage. IF that is the case it is easier to fix.

See if the fellow that installed it will make it right. If not...message me I'd be happy to help you out if you need it. It isn't a big deal.


October 17, 2010, 09:26 AM
Thanks for all the info.I will take grip safety out of frame and check things out.Sometimes it moves and works ok,but I will fix where it's 100% reliable.

October 17, 2010, 09:44 AM
It may not be too hard to fit a new Ed Brown grip safety being that your frame is allready cut for one.

But the GS is toast. You could weld up its finger and recut it, but it's probally more effiecient to just replace it.

Keep the old one for IDPA or something. I keep a GS that I screwed up around for competition. Only takes 10 min to swap in.

October 17, 2010, 01:23 PM
Do a quick test.

Cock the hammer, and use your off-hand thumb to place light upward force on the underside of the GS tang...and see if pulling the trigger will drop the hammer.

If it won't, you can probably cure the problem by bending out on the far right leaf on the sear spring.

If it does, you can still salvage it by stretching the lug. I prefer using a punch rather than peening because I can place the stretch exactly where I need it, and usually don't need to do any fine-tuning on it.

Where in Virginia are you?

October 17, 2010, 03:08 PM
Thanks Tuner,will try your remedy.Will post results.

October 17, 2010, 03:09 PM
I live outside Radford,Va.

October 17, 2010, 03:45 PM
I just had this issue happen with my rebuild im doing. With tight fitting quality parts its leaves very little room for error. One swipe of the file can mean it work and another swipe its another non working part headed for the parts pile.

Peening does work and i suspect will work fine for you since yours has just gradually worn the edge of the finger on the GS.
A flat punch used on the bottom of the finger at the very end should spread enough material downwards. Take it one hit at a time and test it as your eyes will never see any difference. It may still take a file swipes afterward to get it perfect.

Second step is look at the GS itself and see if it was majorly cut on and then refinished or has never been cut on and has its original finish.
If its been cut on send it back to the smith who did the work.
If it looks untouched try and match it up and buy a new one.

Id say usually the frame is cut to the grip safety as much as possible but many times the GS will need blended also so it may be very hard to find another drop in part.

October 17, 2010, 04:24 PM
1911 Tuner,I took out the sear spring and it was bent wrong.Used a sear spring out of my 38 super and it worked 100% of the time. Ieven beat the 1911 on the floor and the hammer would not fall when pulling the trigger.would it be best to buy a three leaf sear spring or four leaf as this is a target gun to be used on the range only.Thanks again for all your help.

October 17, 2010, 04:32 PM
Keep it simple. Use a 3-leaf spring. I'll go ahead and put in a plug for an OEM Colt sear spring. Brownells is your friend.

October 17, 2010, 04:34 PM
I prefer Colt sear springs.

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