P228 trigger - what to do?


October 23, 2010, 11:19 AM
I have a NIB P228, one of the last factory versions with the P229 rail frame. My gun came nicely equipped from SiG with factory night sights and the short trigger, but here's the problem. That short trigger is very thin across the face, and the DA trigger pull on this gun, while being smooth, is horrendously heavy, it must be up around 12 pounds. A thin trigger and a heavy pull make for an unpleasant combination.

I'm sure things may smooth out with use. but in my experience triggers don't improve that much with use.

Right now, even with careful staging the first round out of the gun is pretty much a throw away compared to subsequent shots, this is not a problem I experience with my other DA/SA pistols, just with this one, so it's not a technique issue.

What are my options to improve the trigger pull?


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October 23, 2010, 11:49 AM
Just a suggestion:

Dry fire a lot. This will smooth out the action, and actually reduce the poundage somewhat.
Don't stage your trigger pulls. All of the successful DA shooters, both revolver and auto shooters will tell you that is not good form. Pull straight through.
Make sure you are not using the joint of your trigger finger. Use the first pad. This seems to be a mistake many shooters make while shooting DA. Also the thin Sig trigger on that finger joint will hurt.

And of course there is Gray Guns. He is the master with Sigs.

The list above should help.

DA shooting takes more skill to learn, and is one of the reasons people shy from it. I have always enjoyed it, but I did cut my shooting teeth on DA revolvers. Practice that straight pull through. Your accuracy will iimprove. Also, you will actually reduce the felt poundage by pulling straight through, because you will be reducing the friction. Friction is reduce as speed is increased. That is why you can fill more "grit" in a slow pull than you can in a faster straight-through pull.

October 23, 2010, 11:52 AM
Thanks - any thoughts on smithing options?

October 23, 2010, 11:58 AM
I just bought my first Sig. It's a 225. I'm about to leave with it now - going to the range. I know nothing about the internals of Sigs. On all of my revolvers and autos., I first work the action by dry firing, before I ever stone a part or send it off to a smith. Beyond the self-smoothing the action receives, it familiarizes my finger to the action.

Those with true gunsmithing skills, and that is not me, may choose to work over an action of a new gun. There is certainly nothing wrong with doing that, if you know what you are doing.

October 23, 2010, 02:48 PM
A couple of thoughts

I would recommend you get the armorer's DVD to understand how to detail strip your Sig...I usually recommend Top Gun Supply.

If you do work on your gun, you are voiding the warranty if you run into function problems in that area.. Grayguns offers a lifetime warranty on work they perform

October 23, 2010, 05:47 PM
Its just me, but as a ten thumbed arthritic Neanderthal Klutz, detail striping the 228 is a piece of cake.

The return trip isn't so easy. Even with the DVD, it took a couple of days to get the slide components back in place.


October 23, 2010, 08:24 PM
Thanks guys, food for thought.

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