S&W model 10


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sadahl
November 22, 2010, 08:28 PM
Hi all,

I bought a Smith & Wesson .38 model 10 reolver today, and was just curious to know how old it is. I came across some other places that had gave a small list of features that were changed throughout the years, and one was the change in the style of sight from a half moon to a ramp, which they said happened around 1952... My revolver has the half moon, and I was wondering if there was any way I could get a closer idea on the year.

thanks in advance

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.45&TKD
November 22, 2010, 08:32 PM
Photos?

W.E.G.
November 22, 2010, 08:33 PM
Give full model number 10-? and serial number.

Somebody will be able to look it up in the book and probably give you the exact year of manufacture.

sadahl
November 22, 2010, 08:42 PM
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs925.snc4/73850_1700050868002_1439820010_1789532_5114363_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs935.snc4/74835_1700049987980_1439820010_1789529_2067096_n.jpg

And I'm assuming the the serial number is 408XXX

That is the only number I have found so far, and it is located on the bottom of the barrel, behind the cylinder pin.

sadahl
November 22, 2010, 08:44 PM
and as far as the particular model 10-?... I can't find that part anywhere on the gun either

Dnaltrop
November 22, 2010, 08:48 PM
Not to distract from the research. How's the action?

My old man's Victory model 10 is a "write your name in cursive" sort of pistol.

Here's to hoping that yours is in similar shape.

jad0110
November 22, 2010, 08:48 PM
Judging by the knurling on the ejector rod, that pre-model 10 .38 Hand Ejector Military & Police was made sometime between 1930 and 1946.

sadahl
November 22, 2010, 08:52 PM
what do you mean by "how's the action?" you mean like single action or double action?

Sorry, I'm recently new to the handgun world. Especially since I just turned 21 today

sadahl
November 22, 2010, 08:53 PM
what do you mean by pre-model 10?

jad0110
November 22, 2010, 08:58 PM
what do you mean by pre-model 10?

S&W did not start using model nombers as we know them today until 1957. Hence, guns made prior to this transition are often referred to as a pre-model X for reference.

I missed your serial #. Given that, I amend the date range to 1930 - 1942. Probably early 30s.

what do you mean by "how's the action?" you mean like single action or double action?

Sorry, I'm recently new to the handgun world. Especially since I just turned 21 today

Happy birthday! Nice gift! Basically, action refers to the trigger motion either SA or DA. Most pre-war Smith & Wessons have a buttery smooth double action that is darn near perfection. Like the whole trigger is pivoting on finely machined, well oiled ball bearings.

Dnaltrop
November 22, 2010, 09:00 PM
Is it smooth when you cock the hammer, How does the trigger feel when it breaks (get some snap caps soon !)

Pull the hammer back, try to wiggle the cylinder, How is it locking up (preventing the cylinder from moving) test each stop on the cylinder.

If it's in good shape you'll end up shooting it for decades.

Is it Single/Double action, or is it one of the Double action only models?

sadahl
November 22, 2010, 09:02 PM
Awesome, thanks for your help. I knew, from other research, that it had to have been made before 1952, but now it has added even more interest knowing it was made in the early to mid 1930's...

thanks to everyone. I'm gonna keep trying to do some research on it and see what else i can learn about this gun...


thanks

sadahl
November 22, 2010, 09:18 PM
It is a single/double action.

The hammer does cock back pretty smoothly, and the trigger moves smoothly.

And the cylinder does lock very good when the hammer is cocked..

So judging by what you all have said, I did get a pretty good gun for an excellent price. :) best $205 I've spent in a while. So a good brand of gun, 75+ years old, and all for $205... :) best birthday ever :)

Radagast
November 22, 2010, 09:24 PM
You have a S&W .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change manufactured between 1920 & 1927. Serial numbers in the 358xxx range shipped december 1920 & in the 500xxx rage in 1927.
Your gun was manufactured after heat treatment of cylinders was introduced, so it should be safe to shoot with any standard pressure or PlusP rated ammunition. Stay away from +P+ marked ammo as there is no industry standard for it and you could end up with a high pressure load.
Your gun lacks the positive internal hammer bock safety introduced in 1944, so if kept loaded you should leave the chamber under the hammer empty as there is a risk of the gun firing if dropped on the hammer. the Model of 1905 4th change has a non positive hammer block which can fail. A death in 1944 from such a dropped gun resulted in development of the current positive hammer block.

sadahl
November 22, 2010, 10:01 PM
wow!!!! Even cooler.... you guys are just full of info. Thanks

Dnaltrop
November 22, 2010, 10:48 PM
Everything Radagast said +1

We've never shot +p, but several thousand wad/semi-wadcutter handloads of "average" pep.

It's the gun I used to turn my once phobic wife into Annie Oakley.

jad0110
November 23, 2010, 08:56 PM
Serial numbers in the 358xxx range shipped december 1920 & in the 500xxx rage in 1927.

Interesting. I thought that style of ejector rod knob did not appear until sometime in 1930. Were those parts interchangeable (maybe the ejector rod is a replacement)?

if kept loaded you should leave the chamber under the hammer empty as there is a risk of the gun firing if dropped on the hammer.

This is the most important info given thus far. Heed it. And $205 was a good price for that fine revolver.

Guillermo
November 23, 2010, 09:58 PM
Your gun lacks the positive internal hammer bock safety introduced in 1944, so if kept loaded you should leave the chamber under the hammer empty as there is a risk of the gun firing if dropped on the hammer

that is a VERY important sentence

BCRider
November 23, 2010, 10:21 PM
I don't have any further historical information on your gun. But I'd like to say that you have a sweetheart there.

I got my own model 10 just under a year ago. This past summer I used it a couple of times to shoot in my club's Speed Steel matches. With the right loads it's a superbly easy gun to shoot well. In fact I only occasionally needed to use my sixth "spare round" to finish the the set of 5 steel gongs. It was so eerily accurate that I found myself smiling at how good it was making me look. In the last stage things fell apart a bit until the timer said I was missing to the right (low key club match so everyone is helpful). I immediately realized that I'd slipped back into my semi auto trigger pull method and that was pulling the gun to the right. The next shot and each of the rest for my series of strings were dead on.

Yep, those model 10's are really nice shooters. They look so mild with their pencil barrels and classic looks but they deliver the goods with a casual ease and no fanfare well enough to make a decent shooter look darn good in a quiet way.

.45&TKD
November 23, 2010, 10:23 PM
Is it me, or does that gun need wood grips?

Guillermo
November 23, 2010, 10:32 PM
Is it me, or does that gun need wood grips?

desperately

RSVP2RIP
November 24, 2010, 11:56 AM
I would not shoot +P in it. I know there wil be a slew of comments saying how todays +P is the same as yesteryears standard velocity, but if you want to shoot the fast stuff, you really should have gotten a newer revolver. I'm told S&W won't work on them if replacement parts are needed. I'd stick to the standard 158gr lead bullet loads, which is what the sights are made for anyways. If you want a little oompf then look at Buffalo Bore's Standard Velocity 38 Spl loadings. I've used their 158gr LSWCHP in a Colt Cobra and it shoots very well.

SaxonPig
November 24, 2010, 12:13 PM
I agree with 1920s date. My personal policy is that any revolver made before 1930 gets soft target loads only due to imprecise steel tempering before that date. That's why I sold all of my pre-1930 guns because I want to shoot any ammo without concern.

sadahl
November 27, 2010, 04:02 PM
yeah, I agree it really does need the wooden grip, but that grip is what it came with. I took it out and shot it the other day and it shoots great, I'm not use to shooting a handgun yet, so my aim was a little off, but after a while I was gettin closer....

With a little more practice I'm sure I'll get my handgun aim as good as my rifle aim...

Thanks to everyone for all you help, and I did avoid the +P rounds when I picked up some ammo, I just didn't want to risk it,

rcmodel
November 27, 2010, 05:10 PM
If you take the after-market rubber grip off, you will find the serial number on the butt too.

It would be a real good idea to clean & lube under there while you have them off to prevent rust under them.

rc

armoredman
November 27, 2010, 05:22 PM
Very nice, sir, color me green with envy. I agree, a nice set of wood target grips would go very well on that, or standard issue with a Tylet T-grip adapter. Enjoy in good health for many more years to come, and if only that gun could talk, where has it been the last 90 years...

Checkman
November 28, 2010, 01:29 PM
Love the Pre-Model 10 M&P. What was just a middle of the road revolver has become an outstanding example of minimalism in 2010. Sometimes less is more. Clean and elegant. Especially when compared to what is being made now with rails, integrals laser sights etc.

I own two of the "Long Action" Pre-Model 10's. Two of my favorites.

Yours has the long action as well. The "Short Action" with the re-designed hammer was introduced circa 1948/49 by S&W.

Congrats.

roaddog28
November 28, 2010, 05:23 PM
Great looking M&P. For shooting the old M&P is as fine a revolver as one could own. I have one that is newer than yours but all of them were made at a time when craftmanship was more important than production.

Enjoy yours and thanks for sharing with us.
Howard

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