Stevens 94C 410 shotgun dissassembly instructions needed.


Dave Bulla
November 25, 2010, 07:09 PM

I've got a Stevens 94C 410 single shot with a broken firing pin. I'd like to find some basic written instructions for teardown. Doesn't need to be anything super detailed, just basic sequence of events and the typical "do this" or "don't do that" type stuff.

A good exploded view drawing would be nice too. I found a couple places had this on google but none were very clear.



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Dave Bulla
November 28, 2010, 03:15 AM

November 28, 2010, 07:24 AM

2. With a small edged diamond file, mark the TDC (top dead center) of the NEW firing pin with a small line so you can tell if it is TDC or not when installing the new pin and spring. Note: some firing pins already come with a TDC mark on them.

3. If it is the free floating firing pin in the receiver like my 94E, it is simple. There is either one (1) pin or screw just for the firing pin recess. If a pin, place a wadded paper towel in the firing pin hammer slot at the rear of the receiver, between the hammer and the receiver. DO NOT LEAVE THE HAMMER DOWN, KEEP IT COCKED. Use a cupped drift punch made of brass, drift the pin from LEFT to RIGHT out of the RIGHT side hole (there is a .002 taper to the left side tip of the pin (make sure you mark the drift pin on the LEFT side so you know this is the tapered side).

3. The firing pin and the spring will now come out with a mag tip screw driver. Clean the firing pin hole with a good pent oil like kroil or rem gun oil, I usually use a q-tip, just make sure the q-tip cotton does not fall off inside the hole, if so, a ratted tipped tooth pick will pull it out.

4. Lube the new pin and spring. Put the new spring and firing pin in the firing pin hole. PUSH the firing pin to full front using the hammer released slowly by the trigger and thumb and roughly measure with a micrometer ruler the extension or protrusion of the pin beyond the breech face, it should be 1/8 minimum to 3/16 inches max, if longer, trim or slowly grind (DO NOT SQUASH) the spring down to make the proper length protrusion. If it is too short, in the middle of the spring using small needle nose pliers with one jaw inside the spring on each side, stretch from the middle the amount needed to correct the negative protrusion. Check the spring for nicks or burrs from the pliers. DO NOT PRY THE SPRING IN THE CENTER AS YOU WILL CREATE A CURVE IN THE SPRING AND THIS IS VERY TIME CONSUMING TO CORRECT. If this is not corrected, repeated firing will wear the spring down on one side and will eventually break.

5. Place the spring and firing pin at TDC into the firing pin hole. I use an extended jawed padded vice grip to keep the pin and spring compressed. Drift the pin in the correct direction from RIGHT to LEFT making note of the tapered end is going first into the right side hole. Place one very very small peen (1/64") on the right side of the receiver/pin to make sure it does not drift out when firing

6. Test fire with PRIMER ONLY .410 shells, I use about ten (10) for test firing. Then clean the bore and chamber area free off the primer res. Make sure you are not getting primer depth too deep (piercing the primer) as this can cause some back pressure through the firing pin hole.

Ta Da.... you are done as long as you get consistent firings with the primers.

NOW --- if it is a 2 hole spanner plug that holds the firing pin in, I HONESTLY suggest taking it to a smith as there are special NO mar spanners used to remove and install the plug. The no mar adjustable spanners can be quite costly (using a cheap one from Harbor Freight will break). If you do decide to do it, Brownells has a great no mar spanner made just for this ($65 or so)

NOTE: if it is a screw retained firing pin from the top or side..... PLEASE make sure you use a hollow ground tip like a Bonanza or Magna Tip in the absolute correct size for the screw. These screws are somewhat soft (so they can be drilled and tapped out if the slot is marred) and can be FUBARED up real easy. Using the right tip will be worth its weight in gold. Follow the same steps above but for the screw.

If you need help, PM me and I can maybe help via a phone call.

November 28, 2010, 07:35 AM
P>S> there are NO really clear exploded views....the best I have found is at Numrich, but this is a generic Model 94/940 drawing, small changes were made at each drawing progression, especially to the firing pin and hole. All except the 94H use the same exact firing pin and spring (although some springs need to be shorter and/or longer).

Dave Bulla
November 29, 2010, 02:31 AM
Thanks KK,

I went and looked and it looks like it's got the real tiny screw going down from the top. It's REAL small. I didn't even notice it was there before. I've got a 9478 also that has the side to side pin but the "C" model does not. I didn't have my reading glasses on so I couldn't tell if it was an allen head or straight slot. It's real tiny and looks like a set screw so I'd expect it to be a little allen but I'll have to look again later.

Is there supposed to be any sort of retract spring for the pin? I noticed the part of the pin showing from the rear is flopping around freely. Don't know if there is some sort of small retract spring inside or not. You mentioned pin and spring but being a hammer gun I wasn't sure if you meant a retract spring or the hammer spring.

November 29, 2010, 07:43 AM
Before I ever touched that screw, I would give it a good shot of penetrating oil and let it set a few days, maybe a week and keep it wet.

Carl N. Brown
November 29, 2010, 08:09 AM
I ditto KosmicKrunch point 3: clean the firing pin hole with penetrating oil. On most guns, the firing pin hole will accumulate gunk, dirt, powder residue, oil oxidised into a sticky varnish, etc.

November 29, 2010, 01:45 PM
Ok, the small screw will have a slot. That screw will have a PIN below it and that pin is what holds the firing pin in place. REALLY.....REALLY make sure the screwdriver you use absolutely fits the slot. One trick some smiths use is to place the proper screw driver in the slot and tap the top of the screw driver with a plastic mallet. This will unseat the threads even at the .0001 range and after the pent oil has been on it, should unseat fine by unscrewing. These threads are some what loose in their pitch and diameter. To get the pin out of the slot, use a small tipped magna driver bit.

Most of these firing pins break because the spring pressure has reduced or is rusted and when the hammer falls on it, they just snap because there is no cushion for the firing pin. Dry firing these old Savages and Stevens is OK as long as the firing pin is free floating and the spring works. I would if I were you either get some snap caps or make a few to use when you dry fire it after replacing the new firing pin.

Dave Bulla
November 30, 2010, 02:23 AM
Okay, looks like we're getting somewhere.

But just to be sure, are you saying that when I take the screw out, there will be a small pin continuing downward in the same hole? There is no pin crosswise to where the screw is. Will the pin have room to be driven downward?

As for the spring, mine must be either stuck or broken because I can visually see the back end of the pin "flop" in and out when turning the gun up or down. There is nothing holding it to the rear.

November 30, 2010, 08:12 AM
Yes, there is a vertical free floating pin under the screw; it should come right out with a magnet or magna tip bit.

SOMETIMES the small screw will have the pin machined to the bottom of the screw. Most of the time, the pin will be separate from the screw. IF your firing pin came out already, then that means the vertical free float pin that holds it in is also out of the screw hole. Not a huge deal if you lose it as it is standard stock 1/16th diameter x .250" long cold rolled steel or mandrel steel, any hardware store will have these. You can even use a old drill bit and cut/grind it down to size.

NOW this will get a lil confusing. Since your screw and pin that holds the firing pin in is VERTICAL, then TDC now becomes SDC (side dead center) as the recess in the firing pin has now moved 90 degrees. So you need to mark your firing pin 90 degrees from TDC so that there is a mark at SDC.

Savage/Stevens was a good company and they used the parts they had on hand from any and all gun types, nothing went to waste so even guns that are consecutive numbers can have different parts if it suits their needs to completing the manufacturing process. Add to that, they are damn near hand made when it comes to the fit and function. To my knowledge, they had like 27 final assembly smiths and each had their own lil way to tweak the action and lock up. So on some there may be a pin, others a screw and yet even worse a screw/pin machined together combo that were hand fitted.

Sounds like you have GUNK (oil, wax and powder build up) in the firing pin hole. Use a small needle tweezers and pull the spring (spring pieces) out. Tip: you can also use a wood screw to thread into the spring and pull the spring out. Really clean out the firing pin hole with either Kroil (actually on sale at: or Remington spray oil should clean all of that out. You may even have to use a small caliber bore brush like a .177 or a .22 sized to release the chunked gunk out. You can use WD40 in a pinch but it evaporates too quick for my needs.

Kano Kroil is the best I have ever used for pent, cleaning gunk and rust off of any firearm. I feel it is much better than PB Blaster. I even use 1oz in my snow blower and lawn mower gas to make sure everything is loose and working right.

It is these small jobs that seem to be very mind racking when dealing in smithing older guns.

Let me know if you need more help....more than happy to provide it.

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