Primer, bullet removal


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Maverick_52
December 7, 2010, 01:45 PM
Some questions here regarding primers and bullet removal. As someon on here said there are no dumb questions I'm going to ask a few. Say you don't seeat somem primers exactly right in a case. Is it generally considered safe to run that case through the first stage on a reloader to remove that primer and reuse the case? Also, as I understand the bullet removal tool is safe to use on a bullet that is finished. By that I mean if you think maybe the powder load was wrong and you want to start that bullet from scratch?

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The Bushmaster
December 7, 2010, 01:55 PM
Go for it. And your real problem is? [wear safety glasses when ever reloading]

Maverick_52
December 7, 2010, 02:01 PM
No problem just asking. Brand new to reloading so I am beginning from scratch. maybe those sound like dumb quesions but I am trying to make sure that I do this right and safe. So, I'd rather look stupid asking those questions so that I do it right from the beginning and then I'll know the answer.

rcmodel
December 7, 2010, 02:02 PM
+1

But you really need to review your reloading safety procedures and do some things different you aren't doing now.

rc

Furious_George
December 7, 2010, 02:12 PM
you'll be fine using a bullet puller on a loaded round. it's very very highly unlikely to set off a primer while pulling a bullet. just be careful trying to deprime a case with a primer in it. make sure you don't have any other primers in close proximity because it may set them off. if you deprime the case, just do it slowly so you don't strike the primer too hard with the decapping pin. and +1 on the safety glasses. federal primers are much more likely to go off then winchester, cci, or most of the others. so just be extra cautious if you're using federals. they can even go off when you're inserting them into the case if too much pressure is applied.

AK103K
December 7, 2010, 02:18 PM
Dont feel bad, I've been reloading since the 60's, and I still have occasion to pull stuff apart. Its just the way things go.

The collet type bullet puller works much better than the hammer type, especially if youre doing a lot.

A universal decapping tool is also handy, and will work on most everything and doesnt "size".


Right now I'm in the process of pulling apart a bunch of 357SIG that I'd loaded and now, since I just got rid of my last 357SIG, have no use for. I can use the bullets, primers, and powder over in my 9mm's, so its working out nicely. This is the first time I'm actually decapping live primers and reusing them. I always figured they were done, until a boy I know who loads commercially, told me its fine to do it, as long as you dont go nuts pressing them back out. So far, so good, every one I've loaded had been fine.

TonyT
December 7, 2010, 02:32 PM
I have decapped cases with live primers by using a universal decapping die and applying the pressure sllowly. Always wear eye protection.

BCRider
December 7, 2010, 02:32 PM
Rcmodel makes a good point about reviewing your procedures.

I'm fairly new to reloading as well. I made the mistake of using a progressive machine in progressive mode a bit too quickly when I started and didn't really understand all the pitfalls that can trip us. I ran into some troubles with flipped and poorly seated primers much like it sounds like you are going through. I've since moved on and corrected the early issues. But if I were to go back and do it again I'd start by disconnecting the auto index on the press if there is one. And from there I would not use it in a progressive manner at first. Instead I'd work the cases one at a time from a loading block through each stage on it's own. This lets you check both yourself and the machine operation before moving on. In this single stage mode you can correct such things as high primers while learning how hard you need to push to seat them. From there I'd run them all through the powder loading die and put them back into the block where you can check for consistent powder level and using a bullet check the flare of the mouth to be sure it's enough without being too much. And only finally after all this run them through the bullet seating die and check for OAL frequently.

A single stage mode like this will take longer but it gets you far more in tune with each step and gives you a chance to develop a feel for the machine in a manner that allows you to correct any mistakes as you go instead of ending up with a box of ammo that needs to be broken down. Once you've done maybe a hundred rounds in single stage mode then try moving on to running one at a time through all three dies sequentially checking as you go. By the time you do all this you should be confident enough to shift into full progressive mode. Note that as you go into the 3 or 4 at once mode that the dies will almost certainly need to be slightly adjusted for the flaring and bullet seating dies as the extra load of all stations full will make things flex slightly differently.

Maverick_52
December 7, 2010, 03:39 PM
For the most part the reloader is working fine and there are not many issues at all. I only had a few (maybe 5-6) cases that did not set right. I reviewed the manual and adjusted the reloader and have not had a seating problem since. I wanted to make sure that it wa ok mto deprime those case is all. Regarding the powder/bullet issue. I set 10 rds at 5.5 g for a fmj 230 g bullet and thought based on talking to a reloader buddy that that wa fine. Since that time I've read a lot of literature and discovered that the range should be 4.9 to b.3 (Green Dot) so I wanted to pull those bullets and reload properly. That's all.

Trust me I am reviewing all procedures, using safety glasses and all that. Thanks for the info.

RevolvingGarbage
December 7, 2010, 06:05 PM
Lucky me, Ive been reloading for a few months now, done 1k or so pistol rounds and haven't bought a bullet puller, and haven't needed one really yet! Make a couple rounds and new instantly they weren't right, so I stuck em in a box to deal with some other day, that's about it.

AK103K
December 7, 2010, 06:23 PM
The pullers are definitely worth having. The hammer type are really all you need for occasional use, but if youre going to do a lot, you want the collet type. Easier to use and less messy.

Well armed
December 7, 2010, 06:33 PM
I have De-constructed many hundreds of rounds. Pulling bullets is really no issue, and have de-primed as many. The only thing I will not try is de-priming
crimped (military) cases.

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