Gun safe in garage?


January 7, 2011, 09:06 PM
I'm considering purchasing a used Liberty safe. It is too big to get into my house so I would I have put it in my basement garage. What are the feelings about placing it in a basement garage? I thought I would build a cabinet around it to keep it hidden. Any thoughts?

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January 7, 2011, 09:10 PM
a safe in the garage should be just fine.......

honestly, if they can get into your garage....they can get into your the safe would really be no safer inside......

and if its the only place it will fit....guns in a safe in the garage are far safer than loose in the house.

January 7, 2011, 09:10 PM
If that's where it'll fit, that's where it will go.

You should reflect if you keep welding/cutting torches or serious power tools in your garage.

January 7, 2011, 09:15 PM
I'm looking at a 2yr old Liberty Franklin 50 safe for $1650?

January 7, 2011, 09:16 PM
The only issues I can see are humidity and the ease of have it moved. The humidity can easily be controlled by using a golden rod. Having it in a garage makes it easy to load into a vehicle and be stolen as well as having easy access to tools which can be used to break in.

I would also make sure you bolt it to the wall and floor and use a stall mat to keep it from rusting through the floor.

January 7, 2011, 09:19 PM
Depends on where you live - when I lived out West, the area had a humidity of 7%, year round - so a garage was no big I am in Florida. leaving it in the garage is not an option

January 7, 2011, 09:29 PM
I'm going to have to leave it on the pallet but it weights 1,035 so would be hard. I'm going to build a cabinet around it so it can't be seen when I'm in it but garage faces road so passer buys would see if somebody was trying to move it.

January 7, 2011, 09:36 PM
How remote is your location?

Does the garage door face the street and traffic? Or is on the side or back of the house?

What is your garage door made of?

So I can get into your garage using a scanner in few minutes. Then I can close door and either cut my way into your safe or attach chain and pull.

Do you sliding or patio door patio door that can taken off the tracks to get safe in?

Remember to put a deadbolt on the door leading from your garage into the house. Replace at least one screw per hinge with a screw long enough to penetrate both studs. Also screws for for the door lock on the door and the striker plate should be long enough so that they cant be kicked in.

You want to make it as difficult as possible. Disguised in your garage doesnt meet this criteria.

Just something to consider.

Va Herder

Black Butte
January 7, 2011, 09:42 PM
If I were you, I would forget about leaving the safe on its pallet and use anchor bolts to securely fasten it to the concrete slab in your garage.

January 7, 2011, 09:43 PM
My grandfather had one that laid down and bolted to the floor. Gramps bricked up around it. A semi couldn't get it out, but it could have been cut up in the garage with the door shut.

I would find a way to get it in the house if at all possible. I put mine in the closet of my "man cave." Door is shut and you can see it. Could still be stolen, but it would have to be obvious because 3 - 4 guys could hardly get it in the house empty. - Getting it out full would be a real treat! LOL.

January 7, 2011, 09:44 PM
garage is on side of house. guess I would just have to take the risk becuase it's so heavy I"m afraid it will mess up laminate floors in finished basement. What would you use to move a safe that heavy over laminate flooring in a finished basement to an interior room?

January 7, 2011, 09:48 PM
funny safe story, my uncle had a stilt house with plane hanger doors underneath (flying community)...instead of putting the safe down there, he had a company come in and bring it upstairs somehow the (situation basically required a professional team.) bout a year later he sold the house and told the buyer they could have the safe for an additional 2 grand. The guy didnt want it but my uncle wouldnt have it moved out. So instead he moved out and left the safe and told the guy he could have the code whenever he wanted for 2 grand...the guy called like a month later lol

AL Ranger
January 7, 2011, 09:54 PM
One of the best "camoflauge" jobs I saw for a gun safe was to use an old commercial freezer with a key lock on it. If you can disguise your gun safe as a freezer, that might help. Find an old freezer body and encase your gun safe in it...? Sorry, I can't help you with the humidity problem.

January 7, 2011, 09:55 PM
Whatever you do, remove it from the pallet and anchor-bolt it to the concrete. I moved a thousand pound safe off the pallet by myself and without damage or scratching the safe by some homemade wooden rollers.....its really not that hard.

January 7, 2011, 09:56 PM
Wherever you put it, you really want to bolt it down and not leave it on the pallet.


tasco 74
January 7, 2011, 09:57 PM
another tip i learned is cat litter is a good desicant...... get some empty plastic margarine containers put in litter and punch or cut some holes in the lid of the container and set it inside the safe.....................

Jim Watson
January 7, 2011, 10:08 PM
You should reflect if you keep welding/cutting torches or serious power tools in your garage.

A friend thought of that. So he puts his cutting torch tip and carbide saw blade in the safe, too.

Old Sarge
January 7, 2011, 10:16 PM
I bought a Liberty "FatBoy" safe a year ago, after Christmas when they went on sale.
I was worried about me picking it up, and how to get it into the house. The store had a couple guys who would deliver and set it in place for $125. I quickly agreed.
I saw them coming in, in an old pickup, but didn't see the safe!! Turns out, then had laid it down on it's back. They backed up to the door, and with the help of an old rug, they got it into the door, and stood upright.
Then they had a piece of a scrapped pickup bed. (one of those plastic bedliners) They'd made a sled out of it, with a rope attached very similiar to a kids sled. Got that underneath, and it pulled along slick as could be.
I guess it's all in just knowing how to get the job done.:)

January 7, 2011, 11:40 PM
A few dozen golf balls or a piece of old cardboard to slide on help as well.

Jesse Heywood
January 7, 2011, 11:46 PM
Putting a safe that heavy in a basement is a job I leave to the pros.

I recall recently seeing an ad for a safe that you buy in pieces, then assemble in the basement. I did a quick search, but didn't find it.

January 7, 2011, 11:58 PM
The problem with the install is I'm buying the safe used from an indiviudal who is selling his house and it has to be out a few weeks. So there is no delivery option unless I can find a moving company and really don't want those guys to move it in. I guess I could atleast get it into the garage for now and then worry abotu getting it into the hosue later. Any suggestions on how to move it across lamite wood flooring with mesing up the floor?

January 8, 2011, 12:03 AM
+1 for anchoring it to the garage floor. Another tip I've seen on this forum in previous threads is to put it in a corner with the hinges next to a wall which prevents a bad guy from having the space to gain any leverage when trying to pry the door open.

Put another way - if you can anchor it to the floor in a corner, how's the bad guy going to get a chain around it to yank it out with a truck?

I also agree with the stories about moving safes - mine is smaller, but I've moved it several times (military PCS moves) by myself.

My attitude has always been "give someone enough time and motivation and they will find a way to get my stuff" the idea is simply to make their job as difficult as I feasibly can.

January 8, 2011, 12:06 AM
Go to youtube and type in how to break into a safe, and watch the video, 1 min 30 some seconds they are inside the gun safe

January 8, 2011, 12:28 AM
I'd be much more concerned by climate control/rust prevention than security.
Locks only keep out honest people.

January 8, 2011, 12:43 AM
That is what I"m worried about. I can get the safe in the garage and bolted to the floor, even with it still on the pallet. Should I keep it up off the ground like on a pallet or take it off the pallet and place it on something else?

January 8, 2011, 01:42 AM
Protecting the laminate floor is easy.... sheets of 1/8" hardboard or masonite. That, and a heavy-duty appliance/hand truck will let you move it.

As for leaving it on a pallet - not a good idea. Get it close to where you want it, about 2 feet or so from the wall. Now, unbolt it from the pallet, and have you and a buddy walk it backwards off the back of the pallet, until it's about halfway off, but not so far that it wants to fall off. Put a block of wood under the back of the safe, a little shorter than the pallet. Push from the front of the safe to tip it back, onto your block of wood. Now pull the pallet out, and ease the front of the safe down to the floor. Tip it the other way, and kick the block of wood out from the back. Now set it down and push it in to final position.

I did this myself with a 975lb. safe, so your 1035lb shouldn't be any different.

January 8, 2011, 08:51 AM
Check to see if the door comes off. That will cut the weight in half and make the move much easier. A thin layer of synthetic felt under the safe will help repel moisture and keep it from rusting. It will also help slide it into place. Trim after it is in place. Bolt it in place and use epoxy or concrete over the bolt head inside. As suggested above, the corner is the best location. Build a cabinet, wall, or shelves on the exposed safe wall and top. Now only the door is accessible. The door is the strongest part of the unit so protecting the skin on the sides and top will slow down a thief while providing convenient storage where you need it.

January 8, 2011, 09:16 AM

I'm a professional locksmith who specializes in safes. Moving across a laminate, ceramic tile, or other fragile floor isn't that hard if you prepare properly. Lay a moving blanket on the floor, cover that with 1/2" plywood cut in 2 X 8' strips & roll the unit. Is the safe over 5' tall? If so, then I'd probably not try to move it with an appliance dolly. See if you can't rent a set of piano moving rollers. Sills can be handled with the same 2' X 8' plywood strips with a 2X2 on each side of the sill & a little bracing underneath. We have fabricated steel sill ramps, but it certainly can be done with the plywood. A couple of 2' X 2' light sheet steel plates will ease the ramping on & off the 1/2" plywood. About a half dozen 1/4" steel rods 2' long will also help rolling it into final position. DON'T get in a hurry and do think very carefully about what you're going to do first.


January 8, 2011, 09:32 AM
Grayson,in post #11 you spoke of your laminate flooring.
I had the same dilemma last year as I had all that nasty carpet ripped out of my house and replaced with a laminate floor.
At the same time the work was being done my Amsec BF 66X36 was on order and since it weighed in excess of 1200 pounds unloaded I was more than concerned about the weight sitting forever on the laminate flooring.
What I did was have the flooring contractor put some really hard porcelin tile in a corner in the room the safe was designated for which was a 3'x4' in size.
When the safe and vault company came to deliver they asked in advance what type of flooring I had in the house among several other questions.
They laid 3/4" plywood stacked two layers thick and moved that save in like it was nothing.
Absolutely zero floor damage.
If I had to do this all over again I would have foregone putting the super hard porcelin in the corner and would have went with 12"x12" commercial grade VCT as the pad and would have had it sized as close to the safes footprint as possible.

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