Cleaning cosmoline off of Nugget


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trombosis
January 10, 2011, 02:37 AM
I just purchased a Mosin-Nagant from a dealer in New Mexico for the ridiculous sum of $129. Included bayonet, strap, oil can, and two ammo pouches. Naturally it is covered in cosmoline. Any tips for removing all of that gunk from my nugget?

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Davek1977
January 10, 2011, 03:55 AM
http://www.thehighroad.org/search.php?searchid=8289258

the search engine is your best friend.....this has been covered MANY times in the past, and browsing some of those threads will tell you EVERYTHING you need to know about cosmoline removeal!!!

451 Detonics
January 10, 2011, 06:03 AM
Got a friend in the car business with a parts washer? Know anyone with a steam cleaner? Be prepared to get dirty.

SaxonPig
January 10, 2011, 08:33 AM
Cleaning cosmoline (or grease) off a surplus gun?

103. I suggest that before you start pouring toxic solvents all over the place you simply hang the gun upside down over a catch pan on a warm, sunny day and allow most of the grease to melt and run out. Canít wait for a warm day? How about using a hand-held hair drier to heat it up? Then wipe it with a rag (with a bit of solvent on it if needed).

Birdmang
January 10, 2011, 08:39 AM
Rather then tell how to search, a quick how to is better. There are duplicate threads all the time...

1. Remove all the stock/wood from the barreled action.
2. Clean off all the cosmoline from the metal. I used paper towels.
3. Use a hair dryer, grill, oven to slowly heat the wood pieces and wipe off the cosmoline as it comes out. It will ooze out when heated.
4. After all the cosmoline is out, heat it a little more because it actually isn't out. Then sand/stain/do whatever you want with the wood.


I sanded and stained then lacquered and it looks great.

Onmilo
January 10, 2011, 09:43 AM
For years I have used diesel fuel to clean cosmoline off guns, mainly because I have access to diesel fuel and wide open spaces with which to work with diesel fuel.

Brake cleaner does about as well but stick to the open air when using the stuff, the fumes in an enclosed space can be fatal.

Brownells offers a product called stock whiteing that will pull all traces of grease out of the wood.
You will need to refinish after using the stuff but it will get all the grease out of the wood.
I couldn't stand the dark ugly thin lacquer finish on one of mine and refinished it with a combination stain and varnish.
http://www.fototime.com/1DE68F6B5E92831/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/412586A8BB033FE/standard.jpg

nyresq
January 10, 2011, 05:05 PM
Parts washer for the metal parts if you have access to one, or start with paper towels to wipe off the heavy stuff then rags and kerosene will loosen up the rest. Finish with some gun scrubber for the hard to reach areas.

For the wood there are several non firearms products made for stripping wood. Read the lable to make sure its effective on grease products as well.

Cosmoline
January 10, 2011, 05:11 PM
Nugget? From Mosin-Nagant to Moisen-Noggant to Moose-Nugget, apparently.

My method--break it down completely and use very hot water on the steel parts and dry quickly, then apply a light oil. For the wood if it's on the surface a quick wipe with wet rags should be enough. If it's penetrated the grain it will just have to work its way out over time.

Blue Brick
January 10, 2011, 05:17 PM
I put mine in the kitchen sink with Dawn and a scrub brush.

Watergoat
January 10, 2011, 10:53 PM
When I had a bunch of CMP Springfields, I used Gunk from the auto parts store. Mix it about 3:1 with kerosene/varsol/diesel, take the rifle apart, and scrub the parts, stock and all, with a parts brush. Let it soak a while, scrub it again. When it seems clean, rinse well with a garden hose. Blow dry with compressed air. Put everything in a warm place to make sure all the moisture is gone. You can then spray something on the steel to prevent rust, and do as you wish with the wood. Full Disclosure: I did those 03s in August. Right now it is 23 and snowing.:D

trombosis
January 11, 2011, 12:54 AM
Good advice. It's about mid 60s down here in South Texas, meaning I can work outside comfortably with chemicals.

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