One more ROA add on widget


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AbitNutz
January 16, 2011, 01:52 PM
So it now looks like David Clements is going to be making the Bisley hammer and trigger for the ROA's. That makes me really happy. Some others, not so much and I understand their point of view.

One thing all ROA owners may appreciate and it be SASS legal, is a new base pin latch. One that is more or less a knurled knob.

The Old Army's base pin latch is almost large enough; if it were just a bit larger and knurled, no screwdriver would be needed. I'd still like a slot in it, just in case it got gunked up and I needed a screwdriver to persuade it.

I can twist the latch with my fingers now but it's uncomfortable and chews up my fingers a little. I'll continue to abuse my fingers rather than take the pointy end of a screwdriver anywhere near my ROA when at the range. One slip and I have a nice, large scratch down the frame.

I have a Belt Mountain base pin that I use sometimes with my Kirst cylinder. It's really well made and Belt Mountain makes base pin latches for Blackhawks and such...just not not for the ROA. Go figure, the revolver that you need to remove the cylinder out of the most, they don't make a nice base pin release latch.

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mykeal
January 16, 2011, 06:34 PM
Why not just whittle out a wooden flat blade screwdriver, say out of a nice hard piece of hickory?

BHP FAN
January 16, 2011, 06:45 PM
Belt Mountain makes a basepin with an allen head locking screw. No latch nessesary.

AbitNutz
January 16, 2011, 08:02 PM
Hmm...well, I'm looking to keep the ram.

J-Bar
January 17, 2011, 12:35 AM
Mine turns with my thumbnail. It should not take a lot of torque to release it. Could there be a burr in there?

AbitNutz
January 17, 2011, 02:31 PM
No...I can do the same thing. I can loosen the screw by hand. It would just be more convenient, to have a nicely knurled screw/knob of just ever so slightly larger size and be able to turn it more easily.

I saw where someone had soldered a big 'ole paddle to the screw. That's not at all what I would like. I just want something a bit larger, non-slip (knurled), not cause any issues by being too big and would look good.

junkman_01
January 17, 2011, 03:05 PM
That's what I would like too. If you find something, please let me know.

AbitNutz
January 17, 2011, 08:51 PM
If I whine enough...maybe someone will take pity on me and make some.
This tactic worked with David Clements making Bisley hammers...anyone want to make a nice Ruger latch widget?

Belt Moutain would also be a great candidate to do this...

robhof
January 17, 2011, 08:59 PM
It's a shame the Blackhawk push button retainer doesn't fit. They were originally built on the 3 screw B/H frame and with the same metals, which is the reason of their great strength for b/p pistols.

ClemBert
January 17, 2011, 10:56 PM
Sounds to me like you could use a ClemBert Pin (http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=466773).

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/Ruger%20Old%20Army/ROARetainingPin026.jpg

BTW, I had spoken some time ago with Belt Mountain about making a ClemBert Pin. Basically, they told me they were too busy at the time to consider taking on any new projects.

Here's a different version of the ClemBert Pin I was working on. I gave up on it on account of my horrible soldering skills.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e212/SyberTiger/Firearms/Ruger%20Old%20Army/ROARetainingPin027.jpg

I should point out that on my ROAs I am unable to turn the base pin retaining pin by hand. My ROAs have pretty tight tolerances and it takes a screw driver or coin to turn the retaining pins.

AbitNutz
January 18, 2011, 10:02 AM
While the large paddle may work well, I think it's overkill for this and I guarantee I would break it off. Your second attempt looks to be pretty much right on.

I seem to have a similar lack of skill when it comes to soldering. I thought this would be right up Belt Mountain's alley...but I guess not.

JNewell
January 18, 2011, 02:06 PM
I have the parts to do your second version, Clembert. My theory was to mill off the top of the stock pin and then drill and tap for the bolt. Like so many projects, it is sort of in the "indefinite" time category...too much else going on...

AbitNutz
January 18, 2011, 02:58 PM
Uhm...sooo, if someone makes a nice one, I'll buy it.

ClemBert
January 18, 2011, 07:45 PM
While the large paddle may work well, I think it's overkill for this and I guarantee I would break it off. Your second attempt looks to be pretty much right on.

I guarantee you wouldn't be able to break it with just finger/hand pressure. That solder job is almost like a weld. The size of that thumb head, as you indicated, doesn't need to be as large as it is. It can easily be reduced to a very minimal thumb head. I've considered filing it down further but honestly it works great and its the least of my concerns considering all the projects I have going on.

ClemBert
January 18, 2011, 07:51 PM
I have the parts to do your second version, Clembert. My theory was to mill off the top of the stock pin and then drill and tap for the bolt. Like so many projects, it is sort of in the "indefinite" time category...too much else going on...

That second version of a ClemBert Pin used a stainless machine bolt with a knurled head. I cut off the knurled head then attempted to solder it onto a Ruger base pin retaining pin. The base pin retaining pin was ground flat to mate with the knurled head. Its a VERY easy project for someone to do who has fair soldering skills. I just don't. :cuss: Version one of the ClemBert Pin was a royal PITA because of my lack of skills. However, after considerable effort it turned out pretty nice so I never put any additional time into my botched second version.

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