[firemanstrickland]

ok guys, I need some help, I am an avid shooter, and im not the only one who knows how expensive this hobby is. For that reason I am very interested in getting in to reloading, now.....here is where i need the help. unfourtanetely i have NOBODY close to me that reloads so i am kind of on my own, I want to know what all i need to start. Good material and good equipment that is easy to find other dies and etc. but i am also on a budget, so the cheaper ones would be good :D its something i want to learn about for a hobby and i beleive it would be a VERY valuable skill to possess. Thanks for the input, ANYTHING will be helpful since i know nothing.

[oneounceload]

PLEASE start by reading the stickies at the top - they were put there for a reason. THEN get several manuals and read them

[jfrey]

Give us some idea of what caliber/calibers you want to load and how much you intend to shoot in a week/month. This will have a large bearing on what folks here can recommend.

[noylj]

Question is common and is answered in the stickies or in several archived discussions.
Buy "ABCs of Reloading" and/or Lyman's #49 manual and read it/them.
You should go to various press manufacturer's sites and see if they have any "how to" videos (Hornady and Lee have such).
You should go to YouTube and watch various videos on any presses or calibers you are interested in.
Next, do you have a small or big budget? Do you want to load less than 100 a week or do you need 2000+ a month?
If you have a small budget and you're not sure you will like loading, you can look at Lee's kits. You can also buy the Lee Reloading Press and the Lee book for about $30-35.
You will need a strong work bench. These can be your main work bench or a portable bench. Lee even offers a portable bench where you supply the concrete block (and the wood?).
Looking at a minimal just starting out and can't afford much, I like the little Lee press (with the Lee book), a set of Lee carbide pistol die sets. Your should get the 4 die set if offered in your calibler.
The Lee die sets come with a shell holder and a powder dipper. The instructions also include powder charges using the dipper that are safe.
You pour some powder into a cup and push the dipper into the powder so gravity fiils it up. You then knock off the excess powder with a straight edge (a business card works perfectly).
All you need then are powder, cases, primers, and bullets.
Start off with common jacketed bullets and shoot.
You can get a complete set of Lee dippers and the Lee book will reference the dipper to be used for each powder/bullet/caliber. If you use any data beyond what came with the Lee die instructions, you will want to weigh several charges to verify when weight you are actually getting from a given dipper and powder so you don't have any over-charges and over-pressure problems.
As I said, the data on the die instruction sheet is safe as is with a wide safety margin. The book works closer to max and, as the book says, weight charges so you know what you and your lot of powder are actually throwing.
This is all some people do. It is cheap and it produces ammunition that works.
If you decide that you want more control, more accuracy, or more power, you will then be entering the point where you will want a powder measure, a scale to weigh the powder charges and, possibly, a 1" micrometer and a 6" caliper.
From there, you can determine just how much more press you need and what type of press you want. You will learn, from your simple beginnings, just what is important to you.
No matter what, you will always keep the cheap little Lee press as there are frequently little jobs that are easy on the small press but would involve more time and effort on the main press(es).

[firemanstrickland]

ok, fair enough, im interested in 5.56, 9x19, and maybe some .357 mag and i try to put atleast 300-400 rnds down range every two weeks, and i have to be honest, im not sure what stickys are.......

[rick300]

Get the books. Read the books. Take your time. I taught myself. I decided to reload about a year before I made my first round. I consider myself a newb still, (going on two years and about 5,000 rounds) without a problem. Ask questions, good people here. They like to help. In turn I try to help people comming up behind me, here and at the range. Be safe, Rick

[rfwobbly]

Mr Strickland -
Welcome to reloading !

Very interested in reloading
Then you're in the right place. 1 or 2 of us are fairly interested too!

.....here is where i need the help. unfourtanetely i have NOBODY close to me that reloads so i am kind of on my own...
And you may never meet anyone until you fill out your location in your "profile" so we'll know approximately where you is. :D

I want to know what all i need to start.
Read, read, read. Read the stickies. Go to your local library. Borrow or buy a book called The ABC's of Reloading.

Good material and good equipment that is easy to find other dies and etc. but i am also on a budget, so the cheaper ones would be good its something i want to learn about for a hobby and i believe it would be a VERY valuable skill to possess. Thanks for the input, ANYTHING will be helpful since i know nothing.
• Although most of the supplies and equipment can come through the mail, it's still VERY helpful to find a local gun store that sells primers and powder. Start calling all your local gun stores to find out who stocks those items.

• Start saving all your brass. Most of the money you save will be because you're recycling your brass. If you take 100 rounds to the range, then bring home 500 empty cases. When you feel the urge to hug a tree and join the Sierra Club, then you can slow down on the recycling. :)

• Start collecting plastic cans with lids that stack. I like the big red Folger coffee cans. The big Coffee-Mate cans work well too. Hope you like drinking coffee!


All the best! ;)

[firemanstrickland]

thanks rick, i appreciate it, that is pretty much my plan, but...... i am currently looking at the lee 50 th anniversary kit 90050. it seems to be a pretty good deal, i am also looking at several manuals, What do You think?

[Lost Sheep]

ok, fair enough, im interested in 5.56, 9x19, and maybe some .357 mag and i try to put atleast 300-400 rnds down range every two weeks, and i have to be honest, im not sure what stickys are.......
Stickies are threads in the forum that have been arranged at the top of stack of threads. Since they "stick" to the top of the stack, they are called "stickies".

Here is one (but there are others in which you will be interested)
http://www.thehighroad.org//showthread.php?t=238214

Lost Sheep

[okespe04]

You are going to hear a lot of different approaches. Getting a bunch of manuals and reading them is by no means a bad idea. However I personally get bored of reading and prefer a more hands on approach. I got the ABCS of reloading which is a fast read and a basic reloading set up and dove in head first. I have been reloading since October and have loaded and shot over 4000 rounds in .45acp, 9mm, .38 spec and .357. I did have 1 squib (bullet stuck in barrel) which can happen according to most reloaders. Luckily I caught it and have since installed a light to make sure I see the powder go in every round. It is very important to be careful but a close reading of ABCs of reloading, proper data, and a basic reloading setup is all you need to get started.

PS: If all goes well you will soon learn that reloading will not save you any money, you will just shoot a lot more :)

[rfwobbly]

i am currently looking at the lee 50th anniversary kit 90050. it seems to be a pretty good deal...
Nothing wrong with that kit, if that's what you need. However, don't you think you maybe ought to learn about driving before you rush out and buy a car? You're about 30 days ahead of yourself and you're going to make a snap decision based on little or no information that will cost you money, not save you money.

i am also looking at several manuals, What do You think?
Lyman #49

[mikerault]

Here, a Lee deluxe. Can be used as a turret with full movement or remove the index rod and it becomes a single place press.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t155/mikerault/Reloading/IMG_5077a.jpg

Includes everyting but the dies and any additional turret plates for additional die sets.

You can also put it on a bench built from a kit from Cabelas:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t155/mikerault/Reloading/IMG_5076a.jpg

Within a day you can be doing:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t155/mikerault/Reloading/IMG_5078a.jpg

[Lost Sheep]

http://www.thehighroad.org//showthread.php?t=238214

http://rugerforum.net/reloading/29385-budget-beginning-bench-you-will-never-outgrow-novice-handloader.html
"Budget Beginning Bench you will never outgrow, for the novice handloader"

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430391
Post # 11 (Here's my reloading setup, which I think you might want to model) and # 13 (10 Advices for the novice handloader)

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
on page 2, find my post "10 Advices for new or aspiring handloaders" about halfway down. It is the earliest draft.

But the first book you should get is "The ABCs of Reloading". About $17 at Amazon.com, or may be available at your local library. No matter how old the copy you get, it will be good to read. It has no loading data in it, just information about reloading, which has not changed in concept (except for the invention of smokeless powder) since the 1870's or so.

Good luck, be safe, always, all ways. Wear eye protection, especially when working with primers and don't pinch your fingers in your press.

Lost Sheep

[firemanstrickland]

rfwobbly, i have filled out some of my info, sorry, and i understand what you are saying, you are correct, it just caught my eye, (like that shiny new ar sittin up on the rack.....) i do apologize, i will begin by picking up some reading materials first.

Keep it coming guys, i need all the help i can get

[mcdonl]

Fireman.... I am about 2 years or so into reloading and I have been using the Lee Anniversary kit. Great kit, I loved it... but... at the amount you plan to shoot you may find yourself in a similar situation. I am currently getting ready to switch to a Lee Turret or Progressive press. I am currently leaning toward a turret.

The turret presses are just a few dollars more, and can be used in single stage mode like the anniversary press so you can learn.

Just thought I would toss that out there.

Good luck, and there are some wise people in this area of the website.

[mbruce]

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t155/mikerault/Reloading/IMG_5076a.jpg

Within a day you can be doing:



And the Bowflex is not optional -- so budget for it -- most reloaders will contribute their bowflex, 3 x a week 30 minutes a workout, to their quality reloads.

[cfullgraf]

rfwobbly, i have filled out some of my info, sorry, and i understand what you are saying, you are correct, it just caught my eye, (like that shiny new ar sittin up on the rack.....) i do apologize, i will begin by picking up some reading materials first.

Keep it coming guys, i need all the help i can get

Lots of good suggestions already posted.

The suggestion to read sounds like a daunting task, but it really isn't that much and can be taken in small doses. Many of the books you should eventually end up with are excellent reference manuals for the future. Besides, as good and experienced we all are on the forum, we do forget bits and pieces of details. The books cover all the bases.

"ABCs of Reloading" is a good "how to" book and you may be able to find a copy at the local library. Lyman #49 and boosk publided by the bullet manufacturers (Sierra, Hornady, Speer etc) have "how to" sections besides reloading data.

You Tube has some great information, but don't take all of it as gospel.

Most of the powder manufacturers have loading data on the internet.

Also, while basic reloading is the same, the different books have nuggets of information that is not included in the the other books.

Welcome to the hobby. I enjoy loading ammo as much as "unloading" it.

[mikerault]

Yep, the Bowflex helps keep the lever arm strong!

[firemanstrickland]

1: What kind of powder do you suggest? (5.56 and 9x19)

2: How many times can one single casing be reloaded?

3: Can federal xm193 casings be reloaded?

4: Can winchester white box reloaded? and if so, can i use a higher grain? They use 115 gr. i would like to load 124gr.

5: How do you get the spent primers out of the casing?

Im sure i will have more, thanks for the time and patience, and moderators.....if i am abusing this forum please let me know.

[TeamPrecisionIT]

1: What kind of powder do you suggest? (5.56 and 9x19)

The powder you would use for your rifle may be unique especially depending on your barrel twist and the bullets you will be shooting out of it. Since you mentioned XM193 a little further below, I am guessing you are having good luck with 55gr bullets. That will lead you the faster realm of rifle powders. The different companies who manufacture the powder offer suggestive information as to what would be more tailored to your personal needs.

I, in particular shoot AR15's with 1:7" twist barrels and exclusively 75gr+ bullets, which means I use a relatively 'slow' powder which is Reloader 15 from Alliant. But that is what I use in MY rifle, and does not mean that will be what you use in yours - on the contrary, you may be using a completely different recipe. Again, as has been suggested, you gotta do some reading to figure this kind of stuff out.

For 9mm, it will also depend on what you want to get from your reloads. Do you want velocity? Do you want soft shooting ammo? Do you care if the powder burns cleanly? What kind of bullet will you be shooting, lead, FMJ, HP, etc? What weight are those bullets going to be, 115, 124, 125, 130, 145, 147? What barrel length are you working with? Only your G19? These questions you have to answer before someone just gives you a powder to try.

I, personally, use Winchester 231 with 115gr bullets in my M&P9. I use a charge of 4.5 gr loaded to a OAL of 1.090 IIRC (at work, don't have access to my database). This cycles and shoots with wonderful accuracy in my gun, but may not even cycle your slide or may shoot horrible groups out of your G19.

2: How many times can one single casing be reloaded?

This again depends on how you reload them. Cases that are shot with lighter loads you can get more loadings out of then cases that have been given some hotter loads. How many depends on too many factors to give you any kind of definitive answer. I, personally, have shot cases that have been loaded over 10 times with no ill effects, but my loads for them are on the lighter side of the house. But with 9mm, it isn't really worth trying to stretch the limits due to cases not being hard to find nor expensive.

3: Can federal xm193 casings be reloaded?

Yes, but make sure that if they have a crimped primer pockets that you take the necessary steps to remove that crimp or you will ruin quite a few primers before you realize your error. If this makes no sense to you, you have to do some more research.

4: Can winchester white box reloaded? and if so, can i use a higher grain? They use 115 gr. i would like to load 124gr.

Absolutely, you could even put some of the heavier weight bullets in the +140gr range in there if you chose.

5: How do you get the spent primers out of the casing?

Usually, it is done in the same step as resizing with a pin that protrudes from the sizing die to push out the spent primer. Some people choose to deprime/prime sort of out of order/off press by using a seperate universal decapping die and then hand priming their cases with one of the many tools used for hand priming. This gives them more feel when it comes to seating primers which can lead to more reliability from their loads.

I, personally, do it all together on the press but that is what I have chosen to do and doesn't mean you have to do.



Just to cap this, you really have to read up no matter how boring you might think it will be. Believe it or not, when you are really into something, the reading actually doesn't become boring and becomes interesting as you process the information. And if you have read this far into this post, then you obviously can hack reading a couple pages out of a reloading manual or the ABC's of Reloading book:D

Good to have you on board and welcome to the next addiction in the shooting sports.

Damian

[firemanstrickland]

ok, i do apoligize for the misunderstanding, i dont have a glock, i have a xdm 9mm full size, AND LOVE IT. My rifle is an armalite M-15with a 1:9" twist, it absolutely loves the mil spec ammo, i make hostage shoots at 50 yards with iron sights all day long, i want the same for my reloads, and for my 9mm i dont have much success with the 115 grain, i have been told 124gr will remedy this problem, 115gr cold bore is about 6 inches off at 25 feet off of a rest. so, with all the winchester white box brass i have i want to use that. I plan on reloading a combination of hollow points and fmj's and yes, i am looking for decent velocity.

[TeamPrecisionIT]

Your rifle, with that twist, can shoot a broad range of bullets and be able to stabilize them, but your best performance should come from the 62-70gr bullets from what I have seen. Your powder selection will depend on what device and method you want to use for charging your cases and also what just plain works in your rifle. What I mean by the former is do you want ball, flake, or stick powder and which would work best with your particular powder measure. If you go with the Lee Perfect, I can tell you it will leak with most ball powders but it works great with stick powder. My R15 flows through it great.

For the XDm, if you're always off by 6" in a specific direction, then why haven't you adjusted your sights on the gun? And also, and more importantly, 6" which way? If its all over the place then I hate to break it to you, but that probably is not the gun. 6" at 25 feet (a little over 8 yards) is very unlikely of being a gun/ammo fault, its just too large of a spread to be attributed to a faulty gun or a crappy load.

For velocity out of my 9mm with 115gr bullets, I have been using Alliant Power Pistol with great results. But this comes at the expense of noise and A LOT of muzzle flash but it gives me the highest velocities from my M&P 9.

I, personally, don't think you should go this route just yet and should take your time to learn how to load some lighter target loads first. Once you have those dialed in, start experimenting away! Your about to take your first step on a very long path so start thinking marathon instead of sprints.

Damian

[firemanstrickland]

well, with all due respect i stated that it was a cold bore problem, i can promise you, i can shoot, this is not my first rodeo. i only have the problem shooting cold bore, after three or four rounds its dialed in and im shooting groups close to the size of a quarter, and more people than just me have had the problem, something about the barrel....i dont know for sure. This is not the subject of this thread, i would like to continue with the reloading please.

[mbruce]

Your about to take your first step on a very long path so start thinking marathon instead of sprints.

Damian


The Kenyans marathon pace is faster than my sprints. It's hard to imagine 26.2 miles @ 4:50 min/mile

[cheygriz]

Be forewarned! :p

Reloading is HIGHLY ADDICTIVE!:evil::p:evil:

[firemanstrickland]

hahahahaha so i have been told, im ready to gain this new addiction.......

[firemanstrickland]

does anybody just happen to live in centrtal south carolina and want to show the new guy the ropes? if so, pm me.

[cheygriz]

If nobody PMs you, go down and join your local gun club!

That's a good idea anyway, since you'll make new friends that are fellow shooters, learn a lot from experienced folks, and just maybe, be able to get in on bulk purchases that the club makes for it's members that will save you some bucks. :evil::D:evil:

[firemanstrickland]

well, the only problem with that, is i live in south carolina, there are no gun clubs, in other places of this nation people have to form clubs to protect there rights, but here its not really something we have to protect....yet. i am luck enough for that. EVERYBODY has a gun here, you are the minority if you dont.

[TeamPrecisionIT]

Full list of gun clubs in SC: http://www.traderscreek.com/gun_clubs/south_carolina.asp

well, with all due respect i stated that it was a cold bore problem, i can promise you, i can shoot, this is not my first rodeo. i only have the problem shooting cold bore, after three or four rounds its dialed in and im shooting groups close to the size of a quarter, and more people than just me have had the problem, something about the barrel....i dont know for sure. This is not the subject of this thread, i would like to continue with the reloading please.

I have to ask, but are you telling us that with a cold bore handgun you're more than 60MOA off target? Cold bore can cause a shift of maybe 2MOA at 100 meters, but 60MOA would be a big-time extreme cold bore shift. If you're gun is in dire need of repair, then no amount of ammo customization is going to help correct that extreme of a problem.

Anyway, what other questions do you have? Have you picked up the suggested reads or read the FAQ at the top of this forum? Trust us, they will help a lot to get those first-time jitters out of the way to give you the confidence you need to make the right purchases and follow the correct procedures when it comes time to get loading.

Damian

[firemanstrickland]

damian, thanks for the list i have done some research myself in the past i should have specified, there are just no clubs close enough for me to feasibly join because of travel time, i live out in the country, the big cities have the clubs.

I have talked to springfield, they have set up a return on my xdm.

and let me tell you, the first time jitters are driving me crazy, i have not had time to start getting material, but i will soon. i just want to do it rite. ive got lots of reading ahead of me.

[rfwobbly]

Mr Strickland -
The guys have given you the technical end of choosing powder and primers. Now let's talk about reality. Primers and powders can only be sent to you via UPS, and then only with the addition of a Hazardous Material (HazMat) fee of around $22-25. So even though the primers and powders you see on the internet are very inexpensive, once you add on the HazMat it can become very expensive to buy a starter quantity. That's why I suggested that you research local gun stores and gun clubs who might sell reloading supplies.

When you get your reloading manual, you'll see a list of 10-15 acceptable powders to use for both the 9x19 and the 223 for AR. If you look on powder manufacturer's web sites, you'll see some more. You're going to want to buy your powder in 1 lb cans until you find the best powder for you. That's going to mean, due to the shear cost, buying the powders that are available locally. Later on when you're through testing and really know what you want, then you can order the 8 lb can and 5000 primers and save some money.

I see you now show your location. Thanks for that. I don't know about central SC, but if you are close to Anderson, then you are close to Dans Gun Room [5696 West Avenue, Lavonia, GA 30553, (706) 356-1760] who has an awesome collection of reloading gear. You can check the mileage on Google Maps.

See. And you thought no one was close to you! ;)

[firemanstrickland]

hahahaha yeah, this is true, there is one sporting goods store that sells powders and primers, im hoping that they have what i need. but, my luck, they wont. i got an itchy lever puller arm here guys hahahaha

[mmitch]

Fireman,

A good digital scale in addition to a beam scale promotes MUCHO peace of mind.

Mike

[35 Whelen]

Fireman:
You're going to get LOTs of advice on this subject, and lots of contrary advice.
I'd advise you to check out some of these forums:
http://www.handloads.com/
http://www.reloadersnest.com/index.asp
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve

Lots of help from people who love to reload.

Equipment:
I'll catch lots of flack for this next piece of advice, but here goes...
For the volumn of loading you're going to do, I'd avoid Lee equipment like the plague. Let me qualify that statement by saying I use some of their stuff...I LOVE their priming tool, use some of their cast bullet equipment and for certain applications their collet dies are fantastic.
Some of their stuff is good...some even ingenious, but it's inexpensive for a reason... I shoot competitively every month with 15-20 guys and they all reload. Every single one of them reload and NONE of them use Lee equipment except for their priming tool and possibly dies.

If you'll watch the classifieds here and watch eBay, you can get really good used equipment for as much or not much more than the new Lee equipment. RCBS makes very good equipment and their customer service is second to none. I have been using an RCBS press, that was given to me by my father, for close to 30 years and I've never replaced a single part on it...same goes for a ancient RCBS powder dispenser/measurer. I also use their scales and dies. I promise you RCBS will last the rest of your life.
Another company that make really high quality equipment AND specializes is Dillon. I've never used it but from all accounts it's probably the best made but they specialize in progressive type equipment.

One last thing. You'll probably be tempted to buy a progressive reloader, but I'd strongly urge you to start out with a single stage press where you perform each step of the reloadin operation one at a time. After you get the hang of it, THEN if you want a progressive, go for it.

Let the flames begin....
35W

[mbruce]

I'll catch lots of flack for this next piece of advice, but here goes...
For the volumn of loading you're going to do, I'd avoid Lee equipment like the plague.


sweet another Lee bashing.... poor ole Lee just can't catch a break around here. One day when I grow up i wanna be a RCBS reloader!

Single stage is for benchresters or guys with a lot of time on their hands -- if you're loading pistol and don't want to mess with a progressive then the turret is quite a fine way to go.

[cheygriz]

35 whelen,

EXCELLENT ADVICE!

[mbruce]

35 whelen,

EXCELLENT ADVICE!
Hey wait a minute -- are you and 35 Whelen the same person?? HA

which part was excellent?

[cheygriz]

No we're not the same person. (have the moderator check IP adresses if you wish)

What part of his advice was excellent???

Well............all of it, actually! :)

[35 Whelen]

sweet another Lee bashing.... poor ole Lee just can't catch a break around here. One day when I grow up i wanna be a RCBS reloader!

Unwad yer panties, darling'.... It wasn't a personal attack and I'm not bashing anything...just speaking from experience. If you like Lee products, I'm happy for you.

Single stage is for benchresters or guys with a lot of time on their hands -- if you're loading pistol and don't want to mess with a progressive then the turret is quite a fine way to go.

Single stage is for loading PRECISION ammunition. Progressives are for loading blam, blam, blam, blam, blam... I know because I use one for shotshells.
And by the way, if you're one of those guys who "reloads in a hurry" as you indicate in your post, then you're an accident waiting to happen. As such, you might want to learn to type with your nose or some other appendage.
35W

[mbruce]

now now let's not get too over the top...avoid Lee "like the plague" and me losing limbs because I'm using a turret or a progressive is a little dramatic...

I'm tempted to get a Co-ax with Redding competition dies just to see if it'll make a difference in my pistol groupings compared to the groupings of Lee reloaded cartridges...of course when it doesn't the only possible logical reasoning is because I don't know what i'm doing and i'm just not cut out for this precision stuff -- or i can't focus on precision reloading because my panties are in a wad. :-)

[billybob44]

No we're not the same person. (have the moderator check IP adresses if you wish)

What part of his advice was excellent???

Well............all of it, actually! :)
^^^+1!!Yes there are Lee Kool Aid drinkers around. I use the BEST=Dillon and RCBS. Has worked for me for 35+years and my RockChucker also has ALL original parts.

[mbruce]

dup

[mbruce]

I use the BEST=Dillon and RCBS..

You've been drinking out of my spiked Kool Aid bowl if you consider RCBS the best -- guess Redding and Forster get thrown out of the picture. What's BEST is hard to pin point for any hobby, much less reloading. What's BEST should be determined by asking yourself what's best for you rather than what's the best on the market. One should buy for what his/her interests and goals are.... someone looking to just hit paper and have a good time shooting pistols doesn't need to invest in "The Best"...any advice other than that is bad advice. There's always that guy on the golf course with the pro clubs that is a +20 handicap...always the weekend bass angler fishing out of a 21' Triton with a 300hp Merc on back....I can go on and on..... The quickest way to disinterest someone is by being a spokesperson for a particular brand.....

[GLOOB]

I understand the Lee progressive presses might take a little bit of futzing around with. Most commercial reloaders use Dillon progressives.

But for a single stage press, I have to say that Lee Breechlock rocks. The thin O-frame leaves ample space 360 degrees around the shell holder. I've seen the videos showing how people load on several of the more expensive brands, and it's painful to watch. The press frame, lever, primer catch tray, and/or primer feed systems manage to limit access to the shell holder in some way.

On a single stage, getting the shell in/out of the press takes up a fair bit of your time, since you do it 3-4 times per cartridge. If you have never used a Lee press, you have no idea how much time you're wasting.

[billybob44]

You've been drinking out of my spiked Kool Aid bowl if you consider RCBS the best -- guess Redding and Forster get thrown out of the picture. What's BEST is hard to pin point for any hobby, much less reloading. What's BEST should be determined by asking yourself what's best for you rather than what's the best on the market. One should buy for what his/her interests and goals are.... someone looking to just hit paper and have a good time shooting pistols doesn't need to invest in "The Best"...any advice other than that is bad advice. There's always that guy on the golf course with the pro clubs that is a +20 handicap...always the weekend bass angler fishing out of a 21' Triton with a 300hp Merc on back....I can go on and on..... The quickest way to disinterest someone is by being a spokesperson for a particular brand.....
I do stand corrected. As a retired GM Master Technician, I have assembled a fine assortment of Snap-On Tools. Many others have been able to do the job with Craftsman/Stanley/Globe Master tools. I have never been unhappy about buying too GOOD of tool. Can not say the same about buying too CHEAP of tool..Bill.

[firemanstrickland]

whoa, easy fellas. i dont know reloading, but i have been blessed with some common sense, there IS NO best, everyones got an opinion, opinions are like rear ends, everyones got one, most of em stink, thank you for all the input i do appreciate it, but since im just getting in to this, after some thorough reading i will probly go with lee due to the prices, im not hand loading sierra rounds for my m-24 high in the hindu-kush. i just want something to do the job.

[GP100man]

Get a couple of manuals , ABCs, Lyman & read,read,read!!!

While breaking, surf the forums & cruise for used equipment !!!

Most is from people up grading or changing colors or just plain cleanin up , ask for pics or an inspection period , if they buck any then probably something broken, missing or has been abused .

I still buy some equipment onceinawhile some at a deal & some not ,but I`m happy !!

Always compare the prices against new !!!

A good simgle stage press is a good start & will always be needed , as will a good powder scales !!

[firemanstrickland]

oh! btw, i got a digital caliper.....( i dont know if thats spelled rite) my Lt. just gave it to me, its very nice and brand new, he said he didnt need it. so.....will i even need it in reloading?....

[billybob44]

oh! btw, i got a digital caliper.....( i dont know if thats spelled rite) my Lt. just gave it to me, its very nice and brand new, he said he didnt need it. so.....will i even need it in reloading?....
For sure you will need a caliper!! Next to your scale, probably one of the most important tools that you will need. It is VERY critical that you do NOT seat bullets too deep on most all pistol loads. All pistol loads(and most rifle) will have a suggested Overall Length for that exact bullet/case. Most pistol loads will have a Min. OAL that should be adhered to. Too deep seating bullets can/will cause excessive pressure.
YES-the calipers will be used on every load you make.. Bill.

[Magoo]

I'm in Greenville and would be happy to show you my setup and give you a basic intro to reloading. The local indoor range is close if you wanted to shoot some .45ACP you just made. I'm a newb, and certainly no expert, but I haven't blown myself up yet :). I've got a couple of books/manuals you could borrow as well.

[firemanstrickland]

thanks man, ill have to hit you up sometime

[GLOOB]

You'll be fine. The hardest part is getting the stuff out of the box, reading the instructions, and assembling it.

Just make sure you calibrate your scale. Beam scales need to be adjusted to zero every time you unpack them, because the adjuster bead will move. Electronic scales should be zeroed/tared every few minutes. They tend to drift a little over time.

[dc.fireman]

FM Strickland -

As a wise old handloader once told me (and then told proceeded to tell me again, to make sure I understood him):

"Reloading can be as simple, or as complicated as you'd like to make it."

My advice, would be to go the exact opposite route I went.

GO simple, and inexpensive, at first. Use a few simple tools, with some well written manuals (several are listed above), and learn to use them well. Read the stickies at the top of the forum.

You mentioned that your Lt. gave a digital caliper - does he reload? Can he be your mentor?

I like nearly every press I've ever looked at in person. I'm a tool geek. I like the Lee Classic Cast presses - best priced single stage out there. I own an RCBS - one of the workhorses. I also use a Dillon - complicated, but it turns out quality ammo, in great quantity. The Forsters help retain your die settings, making caliber changes a snap.

Lymans - one of the older press companies, along with Hornady, who bought out the old Pacific Reloading Co.

What I'm getting at, is that before you buy one, head to a gunshow, or someplace like Gander Mountain, Cabelas, Bass Pro Shop - and put your hands on them. Ask some of the guys there what they recommend, and why.

Then shop the internet for deals, factor in the cost of shipping, then go back to your local shop, and see if they can come close. I'm a big fan of shopping locally - it keeps your local businesses and gun shops open, and in business. If they stay in business, you can be sure they'll have something you need in a pinch one day.

Slow down - read the manuals - read the stickies - get your head around the steps of operation. Ask tons of questions - this particular forum on the High Road has some truly experienced and talented people hanging around here - kinda like a blue collar bar, minus the beer. Good Luck, be safe, and Welcome to The High Road!

-tc

[kingmt]

I do stand corrected. As a retired GM Master Technician, I have assembled a fine assortment of Snap-On Tools. Many others have been able to do the job with Craftsman/Stanley/Globe Master tools. I have never been unhappy about buying too GOOD of tool. Can not say the same about buying too CHEAP of tool..Bill.
Being a Auto Tech myself I can relate. I have owned several tools from Snappy, Mac, Mattco, Stanly, Craftsman, IR, Chicago, & others. I would relate Snap-On to RCBS because If you are buying the tool just because it is better made then you just got ripped off but if you look at the main selling points it is well worth the investment if you need what they are selling. If I buy from Snappy then I know he will be back in a week(2 weeks depending on where you are & how much you buy) If it breaks he will replace it & if I have to have it now he will bring it to me. If I buy from RCBS If it breaks they will replace it if I loose it they will replace it if I want a part to work with a product from someone else they will probably give it to me & pay postage.

I love RCBS's company & there service & that is why I buy from them but not everything I buy need that kind of service & the budget gets a little tight or they don't offer what I want so I buy it somewhere else.

Just to let you in on a secret *whispering* Stanley, there automotive tools & customer service are second only to .....well no one.

Harbor Fright isn't bad for everyone or every tool. Some say "you get what you pay for" I say "make sure you are getting what you pay for". MTD or Sears mowers? Is the sticker going to make it better or worth $300 more or will the customer service at the store make you wish you paid $300 more.

I know I have ran on a bit but I just want to get you to look outside the box. Anti-condition.

If I were the OP(which I was in this place starting out) I would try to find someone to let me use there press, go to the library or Walmart & read all I could for free, study these threads, & then decide what I wanted. My first press was a single stage RCBS kit that I rarely used because it wasn't geared to what I needed from it. I just started rifle cartages & the RCBS found a new purpose. The loader I bought was a Pro 1000 & while it wasn't what I wanted my budget said it was what I was getting.

I hope I have helped some.

[firemanstrickland]

dc, no, he does not reload, it was given to him, he doesnt have any use for it. thanks for the advice