Breaking in and cleaning a Stainless steel AR15


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clutch
February 4, 2011, 05:31 PM
I need to order a cleaning rod for my .223 cal ar15. I like Dewey coated rods and a 30" would barely do it so I'm thinking the 36" is the way to go. The rifle has a 20" barrel and the evil flash hider for old times sake.

Does a 36" sound right?

The rifle has a stainless barrel and needs to be broke in a bit. What is the break in procedure? What should I clean it with? I spent hard earned money to buy a service rifle upper and I want to treat it right from the start.

Thanks for any help you can give me in advance.

Clutch

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mc223
February 4, 2011, 07:20 PM
Here is a link to my favorite Break in procedure in detail.

http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/11/equipment-barrel-break-in.html

And a 36" cleaning rod would be fine.

Although there are various trains of thought on brands etc. I prefer an uncoated cleaning rod to avoid damage to the barrel by dirt and junk impregnated in the coating.

clutch
February 4, 2011, 07:34 PM
The break in link resolves but there isn't any text to it. I've tried this in both firefox and IE. Is it just me?

I'll check that link at work in case it is my computer.

Hey, that link got me to another link on plot books.
http://www.desertsharpshooters.com/content/index.php?module=webpage&id=2&page=2

Even if I never see the text of your link, it was worth the visit to the site!


Clutch

highorder
February 4, 2011, 07:46 PM
The break in link resolves but there isn't any text to it.

I think that's the point! ;) Break-in is a bit of a myth it seems.

mc223
February 4, 2011, 08:24 PM
Here is another favorite:

http://www.6mmbr.com/GailMcMbreakin.html

dfariswheel
February 4, 2011, 09:20 PM
For a rod, buy either Dewey uncoated stainless steel or a Tipton Carbon fiber.
Many Match shooters are using carbon fiber these days for one major reason:
Either the rod is perfectly straight, or it's broken.

Buy a bore guide with a solvent port.
Buy some plastic solvent transfer bulbs to apply solvent. This keeps contamination out of the bottle.

For break-in every barrel maker and rifle builder has his own opinion. Many recommend a specific break-in procedure, some say none is needed or recommended.
Either do what you want, or follow the barrel or rifle makers recommendation. If they don't list anything, ASK THEM.

Remember, break-in for a stainless barrel is different and shorter than for a carbon steel barrel.
If the barrel is hard chrome plated, no break-in is required, or even possible.
If the barrel is a better grade Match barrel, you probably don't need any break-in, since the maker laps the bore as part of the manufacturing process.

mshootnit
February 4, 2011, 09:34 PM
Hoppes, Shooters Choice, brass stem brush, proper patches, and Dewey rod with jag. Bore Guide. Break in is really not a big deal. Clean after the first couple range sessions then shoot it. When it starts shooting good (around 75 rounds) you're good to go for at least another 75 rounds without cleaning. Clean at around 150 round intervals or so. John Barsness did a great article about cleaning intervals and accuracy awhile back.

mc223
February 4, 2011, 10:09 PM
John Barsness did a great article about cleaning intervals and accuracy awhile back.

Do you have a link for this article?

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