Ruger MKIII 22/45 Problems/Help


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kayak-man
February 16, 2011, 05:53 PM
A couple days ago I picked up a new Ruger MKIII 22/45 targer pistol. Tooke it to the range yesterday and fired 25 rounds through it no problem. Later when I got home, I tried to clean it. I was not successful.

1) I could not get the reciever to seperate from the frame. How far is the reciever supposed to slide forward before it can be lifted clear? i tried tapping it with a rubber mallet like the manuel suggested, no luck. It does pivot a bit, maybe all of five degrees, out away from the back. I don't think its supposed to do that.

2) Reassembling it was a bear. took atleast an hour to get the pin back through the bolt so I could re-install the mainspring housing. Finally got it. Now it won't come back out. The mainspring comes out maybe 15-20 degrees, but I just can't get it out.

3) I tried to rack the "slide" but there was a lot of resistance - it got back about halfway and then stopped. You can pull it back past that, but then the bolt stays locked back, even though I don't have the BHO/Slide release activated. Interestingly enough, it does not have this problem when I have the mainspring housing partially swivveled out.

4) I tried dryfiring it. It doesn't sound like anything is happening inside the gun, and now I can't take it apart to see what gives. I've tried it with and without the magazine installed. It sounds like the hammer/firing pin is moving forward with the bolt.

So now what? I'm hoping that there is just some trick that I'm missing, like a factory screw that no one told me needs to be removed or something. Is there something I am missing? I'm probably going to call Ruger tomorow (time is short today) and ask them, but before I send it back to the factory, I wanted to make sure there wasn't something I just screwed up on. Or should I just take it to the post office today and ship it to Ruger with a note saying "fix it, please." ?

Thanks,
Chris "the Kayak-Man" Johnson

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NMGonzo
February 16, 2011, 05:55 PM
Ah ... did you point upwards when reassembling the pistol?

kayak-man
February 16, 2011, 05:58 PM
I can't remember which attempt was successful, I think it was the one where I pointed downwards, but I did try it pointing upwards, level, and down.

sniper4usmc
February 16, 2011, 06:14 PM
watch this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fIYIWK0boo

jrod102
February 16, 2011, 06:18 PM
and this is why I now own a Buckmark.

------------------------------------------

Just because your paranoid doesn't mean they're not after you! :D

1KPerDay
February 16, 2011, 06:28 PM
so what exactly is the issue right now? You're trying to remove the takedown/bolt pin but it won't come out?

if so, just pull the lever/latch away from the frame and give the top of the pin a whack with a wooden or plastic mallet. disassemble again and reassemble correctly.

If you got it partially apart and then changed your mind and tried to get it back together... don't. It sounds like you got the rear portion of the upper disconnected from the lower, but couldn't get it all the way apart so then tried to put it back together... and may or may not have "hooked" the rear bit? :confused:

IF you follow the directions it's fairly straightforward. I have to give mine more than a "tap" to get the upper and lowe separated, then lined up properly again. More like several good whacks. I thought I was going to break it. :D

Jolly Rogers
February 16, 2011, 06:49 PM
It sounds like you didn't get the hammer strut engaged into the mainspring housing properly.
Please go to : gun-talk online (http://www.guntalk-online.com/)
and follow the service links to repair your mis assembly.
Bullseye is the owner of the site and a gunsmith that knows the platform the best of any web help available.
Joe

Pilot
February 16, 2011, 06:53 PM
Hummm.....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

and this is why I now own a Buckmark.


So are you saying you're not smart enough to get the little hammer strut in place before reassembling the pistol? :rolleyes:

jrod102
February 16, 2011, 07:34 PM
I'm saying I was smart enough to trade the pain in the axx off and never have to deal with it again. My buckmark never has had any problems going back together. I don't have to hop on one foot or hold my mouth just right to get the buckmark back together. And surprisingly it shoots just as well or better than the 22/45. From what I can tell Browning seems to have a pretty good track record with the buckmark. I also don't remember seeing any posts about having to send a buckmark back to Browning in a bushel basket for them to fix. Guess its just me though.
___________________________________________________

Just because your paranoid doesn't mean they're not after you! :D

bigfatdave
February 16, 2011, 07:57 PM
and this is why I now own a Buckmark.Because you're not clever enough to understand the relationship of the internals?

1 - 1/2"-3/4" it should pop off of a lug above the trigger gaurg
2 - of course the pin wouldn't go through if you had the upper and lower misaligned
3 - sounds like you have the hammer strut somewhere other than on the Mainspring housing
4 - see #3

http://nazarian.no/images/wep/350_22-45_MKIII_EXP.gif

To remove the upper from the lower, you must disengage the lug above the trigger, it has a recess under the front that the upper locks onto with a slot ... see here:
http://guntalk-online.com/images/2245_mark3_dsrs11.jpg

In the exploded diagram above, the hammer strut is attached to the hammer ... part # 35
It needs to dangle free during re-assembly and goes into the top of the mainspring housing, part # 54 ... you probably have it trapped behind a crosspin forward of the MSH and behind the magwell, that's the common spot that people force it into, particularly when trying to back out of a re-assembly without seeing how things should go together. guntalk-online has a "service" tab that should help you, you may be in for a detail strip to get the gun apart unless you can get that MSH out. There is no reason an adult capable of basic reasoning can't get a mkIII detail stripped with basic tools and some patience, plus the diagrams from Dr Bullseye and an exploded schematic.

jrod102
February 16, 2011, 08:55 PM
Because you're not clever enough to understand the relationship of the internals?

Clever or not if the OP had a buckmark we wouldn't be having this conversation.
____________________________________________

Just because your paranoid doesn't mean they're not after you! :D

Average Joe
February 16, 2011, 09:05 PM
Ruger designed it that way, so only the true Ruger fans can figure it out.

kayak-man
February 16, 2011, 09:36 PM
THANKS GUYS!!!!

I got it all back together. My big problem was just what jollyroger suggested, and after playing with the magazine, I was able to get the mainspring housing out.

Sniper - The video was great. When I tried it the first time, I was watching a different one, that was no where near as straightforward.

Jrod - Actually, the Buckmark was my first choice, but I was just a bit impatient, and figured that since my SR9 is my favorite out of all the handguns I own, I'd go with my second choice, the MKIII. I learned my lesson, and now, I will not try to cut corners when I get a FAL...or an M4gery... or a Hi Power...

Thanks a lot guys!

Chris "the Kayak-Man" Johnson

Confederate
February 17, 2011, 01:49 AM
There have been many warnings here and it's time to raise the warning again: DON'T TRY TO TAKE APART A NEW RUGER .22LR AUTO!!

When it's new, it's tight. You need to shoot the thing for hundreds of rounds before taking it apart. Also, you don't need to field strip it every time you go shooting. Some people will just ignore this advice, but do it at your own risk.

If you can get the thing back together and functioning, do so. If you can't put it together, put everything in a bag and go to your local range or gun store and see if you can get some help. Don't pay for it...you can find many people who will do it FREE. You can even try an Izaak Walton League, where you can certainly get free help.

I was in a gun store once when someone came in with a similar plight. His blued Ruger was in pieces in a bag and the thing was brand new. The Colonel who ran the shop didn't have the time to help him, so I did. That gun was so damn tight, that I told the owner to take a walk and it would be put together when he returned. After he was out the door, I got the Colonel's rubber hammer and literally beat the gun back together.

The gun is far more durable than anything Buck ever made. I've never had any problems once I got taking the gun apart down. Shooting it for several hundred rounds should loosen it up enough for it to be easily disassembled and reassembled.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh198/jriler/RugerAuto.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh198/jriler/Ruger1953Ad.jpg

1953 Ad

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh198/jriler/RugerMarkII_11.jpg

.

kayak-man
February 17, 2011, 02:31 AM
Confederate - Thanks for the info! "More range time" is generaly my prefered solution. I did get it all back together, so I'll be sure to put a hundred or so rounds through it tomorow!

Chris "the Kayak-Man" Johnson

bigfatdave
February 17, 2011, 08:29 AM
A hundred?

I'll give another hint ... google "ultimate cliploader", it makes loading the magazines so easy 500 rounds in a session becomes common. Far superior to the thumb-saver gadgets, so long as you have room in your range bag and buy rimfire ammo in bulk.

Jolly Rogers
February 17, 2011, 02:28 PM
Oh nice...spend the poor guys money! :neener:
Seriously the Ultimate Cliploader...(their name not mine) will help you burn through a brick of ammo in an hour...by yourself...I've done it.
Joe

bigfatdave
February 17, 2011, 03:17 PM
will help you burn through a brick of ammo in an hour...by yourself...I've done itWith two or three magazines and a helper you can shoot non-stop until the ammo runs out.

bnz43
February 17, 2011, 03:21 PM
The Ruger MKII and Ruger 10/22 are the only Ruger firearms I own. The MKII was a little bit of a pain until I learned how to reassembly the mainspring into the pistol grip. Very nice firearms. Now the P series pistols that is another story.

Paul7
February 17, 2011, 03:36 PM
This is why I got rid of mine. You practically have to be an amateur gunsmith to take it apart. I don't like spending more time cleaning a gun than I did shooting it.

jrod102
February 17, 2011, 05:06 PM
This is why I got rid of mine. You practically have to be an amateur gunsmith to take it apart. I don't like spending more time cleaning a gun than I did shooting it.

+1 Paul7. Someone finally agrees with me!!!! Don't get me wrong the 22/45 I had was a great shooter with no malf's. It just was a pain in the rump to fieldstrip and clean. I can strip and clean my buckmark and not need to be a gunsmith or have to take it to one to put it back together for me. Amen.
_____________________________________________

Just because your paranoid doesn't mean they're not after you! :D

Jolly Rogers
February 17, 2011, 10:52 PM
Yeah a man has to know his limitations.
Joe

billybob44
February 18, 2011, 01:03 AM
Clever or not if the OP had a buckmark we wouldn't be having this conversation.
____________________________________________

Just because your paranoid doesn't mean they're not after you! :D
You're correct-AND-The OP's pockets would be $'s lighter...

OcelotZ3
February 18, 2011, 01:34 AM
You know, Buckmarks aren't exactly fun to clean either. You need screwdriver, they have issues if the rear sightbase screws gets a little loose, and it helps if you use Rusty's Buckmark Tool to take it down.

I first got a Buckmark, then a Ruger MkII Government Target, and now a MkIII 22/45. I find all about the same to take down & clean. Last weekend I cleaned all of them (and a bunch of others) without drama, referring to the owner's manual once.

I'm not that mechanically oriented but I just don't understand why people who have done it once or twice find it so difficult.

Martin51
February 18, 2011, 11:59 PM
You could also go with a High Standard; press the takedown button, separate the barrel, slide, and frame, clean.

But generally, .22's don't need much cleaning. Clean the bore and bolt face, inspect the rest, and you shouldn't need to take anything else down more than once a year or so. Excessive takedown tends to just offer multiple opportunities for wear and damage.

ColtPythonElite
February 19, 2011, 12:06 AM
Once you figure out how a Ruger MK comes apart and goes together, you should be able to take it apart and put it back together in well under 2 minutes.

OcelotZ3
February 19, 2011, 02:28 AM
You could also go with a High Standard; press the takedown button, separate the barrel, slide, and frame, clean.

Yeah, but if it is an HD Military, DO NOT pull the trigger with the slide off! Then any issues cleaning Rugers/Buckmarks/etc. will look like child's play...

Lariatbob
February 19, 2011, 12:13 PM
Those darn Ruger MK's fight me everytime, even after many years. After I clean it I try to change my mind set from gun cleaning to Rubik Cube'n. Take is as a puzzle piece and relax. Most of the time my problems come from trying to force stuff. :cuss:

googol
February 28, 2011, 06:35 PM
The first few times I tried to reassemble mine, it was pure frustration. Then I got the hang of the process and had no more problems for several years. And then I had a problem. I couldn't get the thing back together after six or eight tries. Eventually I had to put the thing down and walk away before I broke something expensive.

Majestic Arms makes a kit that costs about $50 and eliminates all the headaches. Instead of all the pat-your-head-and-rub-your-stomach nonsense, I use an Allen wrench and I'm done with it. I'd recommend it to anyone who owns a Ruger .22.

27Contender
February 28, 2011, 07:42 PM
bigfatdave - That ulimate loader looks awesome, my thumb thanks you. :D

My wallet OTOH does not, there goes my economy of shooting the .22. :D

I bought myself a Mark III earlier this month for my birthday. Couldn't take it anymore, after 750 - 1000 rds, I had to clean it. The only problem I encountered was getting the the alignment right so the pin would go in. I know where it is supposed to line up now. Is there some trick other than just tapping the frame and barrel together slowly and checking it with the pin before the bolt goes in? Having done it once it will be a breeze next time.

I saved the other links posted and will check those out too.

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