Mauser Broomhandle


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Ro1911
February 23, 2011, 12:23 AM
I'm about to buy a 1930's commercial Mauser and I have some questions,
first is $700 a fare price on a gun thats in like 70% condition. Second has any one had lugerman.com refinish there Mauser, if so how did it turn out? And third would refinishing a gun that has no finish left help or hurt the value (this is a shooter not really a collector piece in my opinion, the barrel and all internal parts look good but the outside has seen better days but it isn't pitted)?

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Quiet
February 23, 2011, 12:35 AM
Refinishing any C&R firearm will make it worth less as a collector's piece.

However, if you obtained it to use as a shooter and not a collector's peice, refinish away.

Couple of years ago, when I was looking at picking up a Mauser C96, a refinished shooter quality Mauser C96 were selling for around $600.

Ro1911
February 23, 2011, 12:40 AM
That was kind of what I thought with the condition it's in its really only a shooter any way I kind of figured given the choice between a good looking shooter or a poor looking one it's a no brainer

Oh and do you have to sbr it to put a repo stock on it? I haven't heard a firm answer either way on any of the sites I looked on, thanks.

ET
February 23, 2011, 12:59 AM
My next door neighbor has a broom handle Mauser with the shoulder stock that doubles as a case for the gun. He inherited it from his father when he died. I've never seen him shoot it. I asked him why he doesn't bring it out to the range and he said that he can't afford the ammo. He found some ammo at Fiocchi but never bought any of it. I don't know if it is outragiously priced or not, but he sure thinks it is. Just an observation...

Ro1911
February 23, 2011, 01:03 AM
Fiochhi is 34.95 a box
Prvi partisan is 14.95 a box

But those are at my local store I dont know about any where else.

I didn't think it was extremely over priced, its about the same as 9mm.

DammitBoy
February 23, 2011, 01:05 AM
might be a good idea to replace the springs - if you know how to take it down

that price seems fair if it shoots

Ro1911
February 23, 2011, 01:08 AM
Do you mean the follower springs or the recoil spring or the main spring or the firing pin spring? Or all of the above?

DammitBoy
February 23, 2011, 01:12 AM
all of the above

Quiet
February 23, 2011, 01:13 AM
Oh and do you have to sbr it to put a repo stock on it? I haven't heard a firm answer either way on any of the sites I looked on, thanks.

Authentic shoulder stock/holster = non-SBR
Reproduction of authentic shoulder stock/holster = gray (contact BATFE NFA branch for clarification)
non-authentic shoulder stock = SBR


Mauser, Model 1896 semiautomatic pistol accompanied by original German mfd. detachable wooden holster/shoulder stocks, all semiautomatic German mfd. variations produced prior to 1940, any caliber.

XxWINxX94
February 23, 2011, 01:13 AM
I guess if its a shooter you can refinish, but I'm one of those guys who cringes at the word refinish.

One thing you may want to consider:
Value will be severly decreased as soon as you touch it with steel wool/sand paper.
If you ever try to sell it, I wouldn't expect to get anywhere close to what you paid for it/what its worth after you refinish.

Blue Book has probably 30 variations of this gun documented. Assuming the one your looking at isn't anything out of the ordinary, $700 is a decent price for 70% condition.

ET
February 23, 2011, 01:18 AM
Fiochhi is 34.95 a box
Prvi partisan is 14.95 a box

Well that answers my question about whether or not he's tight with his money...although the $34.95/50 is in the upper end of the range I would be willing to shoot on a regular basis.

Ro1911
February 23, 2011, 01:19 AM
Who would you contact at the batfe to ask that question?

Do they have a hot line?(ha)

Quiet
February 23, 2011, 01:29 AM
Who would you contact at the batfe to ask that question?

Do they have a hot line?(ha)

BATFE NFA Branch
244 Needy Road
Martinsburg, West Virginia 25405 USA
Voice (304) 616-4500
Fax (304) 616-4501


IMO...
Write them a letter, asking what you want clarified.
That way they mail you back a response and you have physicaly proof of what is or is not legal so you can show to any LEO that questions it.
If you call them, you might just get a desk jockey that doesn't know as much as the technicians and get an answer which they think is right.

Ro1911
February 23, 2011, 01:39 AM
Thanks I think I'll look up a local office to write

Shadow 7D
February 23, 2011, 01:56 AM
Oh, and be VERY careful, 7,63 Mauser and 7.62 Tokarev DO not mix, the Tokarev is a much higher pressure round, that will chamber, and will fire, and will destroy the gun if not you.

1858remington
February 23, 2011, 02:05 AM
I had a broomhandle mauser a few years ago, it was a fun gun to shoot. The 30 mauser round is pleasant to shoot.

disassembly is pretty easy.
1. Check that gun is unloaded
2. Hold the bolt back, and depress the magazine follower.
3. ease the bolt closed
4. depress the button on the magazine base plate and slide the base approx. 1/2 inch to free it from the frame.
5. remove the base plate, magazine spring, & follower from the frame.
6. cock the hammer. Under the hammer is a latch just above the grip.
7. Pull the hammer down and lift the latch. the top of the gun will now slide rearward off the frame. watch for the safety lever as it may fall out.
8. The action is held to the bolt by a spring and can be unsnapped off the bolt.
9. to remove the bolt and firing pin from the top end, use a small screwdriver and depress the firing pin at the back of the bolt and rotate it untill it pops out.
10. remove the firing pin, and then the spring block. the bolt can now be removed.

reassembly:

1. insert the bolt into the top end, and put the spring in the bolt.
2. This part is a bit tricky: use a flathead screwdriver and compress the firing pin spring so you can start to insert the spring block. the spring has to be in front of the block or the block will not fit.
3. once block is in place, insert the firing pin, and used a screwdriver to depress it and rotate it to lock in place.
4. resnap the action to the bolt.
5. line up the top end with the frame and slide them together. they won't fit all the way.
6. Put the safety lever on the action.
7. Now the trick: pull down on the hammer and the action will slide into the frame.
8. Reinsert the magazine follower, spring and base plate. Slide the plate while depressing the plate retaining button.
6.

jonnyc
February 23, 2011, 08:59 AM
"Oh, and be VERY careful, 7,63 Mauser and 7.62 Tokarev DO not mix, the Tokarev is a much higher pressure round, that will chamber, and will fire, and will destroy the gun if not you."

That's a wee bit of an exaggeration. Some European Mauser ammo was loaded quite hot and there is great variation in loadings between various flavors of Tokarev ammo. Any Mauser pistol that has been determined to be safe for 7.63 Mauser ammo will not suddenly detonate with the first round of 7.62 Tokarev ammo it fires, but it will wear at a faster rate if the Tokarev ammo is very hot and the pistol is not maintained well.

DammitBoy
February 23, 2011, 12:18 PM
If you can solve rubics cube, disassembly of the broomhandle will be childs play... :uhoh:

Ro1911
February 23, 2011, 09:32 PM
Does anyone know where to find accessories and parts for the broomhandle?

buttrap
February 23, 2011, 11:00 PM
I have to agree on the Rubics Cube idea. They sure are a interesting set up to take the action apart.

commygun
February 24, 2011, 01:16 AM
The Broomhandle is actually a relatively simple pistol to completely disassemble by modern standards. More like a child's Chinese puzzle than a Rubrik's Cube. I got to be an expert at it when I had mine. Just be sure the rocker coupling (the C-shaped piece) is replaced with the open side facing forward. I had mine refinished and sold it for far more than I paid for it. Outside the realm of serious collectors, a handsome shooter is worth more than a worn-looking shooter. Parts frequently turn up on Ebay but don't necessarily sell cheap. Some parts, like the sear spring/hammer pivot, are hard to find in good condition. I learned so much about Broomhandles trying to coax mine into a reliable one that I know I will never own one again unless I can shoot it before I buy it.

commygun
February 24, 2011, 01:23 AM
Oh, and make sure the bolt stop is sound before you shoot the pistol. I've seen a bunch of cracked and thinned ones and I've had one shear with the resultant flying bolt. That got my attention! Fortunately, I was not holding the gun in front of my face when that happened.

Ro1911
February 24, 2011, 03:42 AM
Commygun

Who did you have refinish yours?

commygun
February 24, 2011, 08:21 PM
It was a place in Florida that advertised in Gun List. It's been 7 or 8 years so I don't recall the name of the outfit. They did a nice job on the refinish but they also installed the crappy bolt stop that sheared. When I talked to them about it they acted like they'd never heard of such a thing. So, high marks for refinishing but I'd never trust them to do any kind of smithing or fitting.

commygun
February 24, 2011, 08:36 PM
Ro,

They didn't do the work on my old Broomie but Mentor Arms in Ohio has a reputation as knowledgeable and competent C96 smiths/refinishers.

DammitBoy
February 24, 2011, 10:26 PM
I second that, Mentor Arms is the bomb-diggity.

Carl N. Brown
March 16, 2011, 08:22 PM
On replacing C96 springs: the hammer spring does more to absorb recoil than the bolt return spring. Both should be replaced on an old Mauser before shooting. Just because the hammer spring is strong enough to pop a primer and fire reliably does not mean it is strong enough to slow down the bolt so it does not batter the bolt stop. My C96 was about 1913 manufacture and the hammer and bolt return spring were weak compared to the replacement springs.

Tokarev ammo, even the hotter military loads, won't ka-boom a Mauser but some of them will beat the life out of one in a hurry.

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