How often should nipples be removed for cleaning?


February 24, 2011, 02:18 AM
How often should nipples be removed for cleaning?
Please select the answer that most closely matches your beliefs and practices regarding how often nipples need to be removed for cleaning.
The results of this poll are anonymous. :)

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Fingers McGee
February 24, 2011, 01:37 PM
After every shooting session. But, for me, a shooting session can be a one day or 3 day match shooting anywhere from 5 to 15 stages with side matches.

February 24, 2011, 02:38 PM
Fingers and I don't agree on this one. I do not remove the nipples unless I must change them. I coat them liberally with anti-seize compound and turn them in only finger tight. Each time I clean I loosen the nipple 1/4 of a turn then tighten again.

February 24, 2011, 03:04 PM
I do not remove the nipples unless I must change them.
I agree

February 24, 2011, 03:18 PM
Are you boys THAT lazy or do you feel there is a good reason for not removing them?

February 24, 2011, 04:06 PM
I remove the nipples when I totally disassemble the gun for a complete cleaning. But I only do a complete disassembly after every 3rd or 4th cowboy match, which would be about 120 shots fired. I will do a field strip, wipe down, swab out the chambers and boresnake the barrel after each 5 to 6 stage cowboy match which is about 25 or 30 shots fired. Probably don't have to, but it makes me feel better...

I don't know how many cowboy stages I can go before the guns seize up for lack of hygiene. In practice sessions I have shot 10 stages worth of ammo in one day, which would be 50 shots through each handgun, through my 1851s and ROAs and they were still working fine when I left the range. Dirty, but still cycling and going bang with no degradation in accuracy. If you lube the guns right and lube the ammo right, they keep on ticking.

February 24, 2011, 06:03 PM
Just see no need. I remove what I think will harm the guns structurally or cause a lack of performance.

and J-Bar's guns are not only clean they are surgically sterile. When he cleans them they are really clean.

February 24, 2011, 07:20 PM
I do it every other time or so, just to keep the threads working, but I'm going to steal Noz's idea, so I don't have to. If you clean with really hot water, and a little dish soap, and then rinse with more really hot water, towel dry with paper towel, and then oil 'em up, they come out really, really clean.

Fingers McGee
February 24, 2011, 07:31 PM
I like to get all the cap residue off of the nipples and from the cylinder cut outs. I soak them in BP solvent, brush them off & use a pipe cleaner to clean the insides. Mine are only finger tight and the threads lubed with balistol. There were a couple occasions in the dim dark past when I didn't do this, and had ignition problems.

February 24, 2011, 07:41 PM
Yep, what Fingers said

Prairie Dawg
February 24, 2011, 08:22 PM
About twice a year for me.
Upon removal, I've never found any reason to remove them any more often.
I grease the threads with bore butter when I put them in.
Snug but not tight.

February 24, 2011, 10:23 PM
After every shooting session for me.
I may shoot 20-30 shots or I may keep wiping & swabbing the bore & shoot over 100 rounds but once I'm done that day I give it a serius cleaning.

I may not fully strip the whole pistol cept about every 6-9 months but the cylinders get stripped & cleaned.

February 25, 2011, 07:28 PM
I'm with Noz. I put anti-sieze grease on them then fuggettaboutit. If you advocate or stress the need for nipples to come out after every shooting session then a lot of folks are just gonna hang them up and decide C&Bs are too much work. Half the time I give my guns a "whore's bath" which is a quick BP solvent spritz & punch of the chambers & bore, an alcohol spritz to dry, then canned air to blow out anything left. Oil & grease where it is needed and back in the holster or safe for the next shoot. I know people who would completely disassemble, boil the parts, scrub, dry, oil, reassemble (including nipples), etc. Guess what? They are no longer shooting perCUSSIN' revolvers as "it takes/took way too much time to clean them".

That's my opinion (and bad attitude) 2 cents worth.

February 25, 2011, 08:16 PM
I find removal painful and reattachment problematic. I leave em where they are...:p

February 25, 2011, 08:45 PM
That's my opinion (and bad attitude) 2 cents worth.


I agree with do have a bad attitude! :rolleyes::evil:
February 25, 2011, 08:59 PM
I may neglect a lot of things, but when it comes to nipples, No Way!
I take them out after each use and give the little bugers a good scrubbing.

Foto Joe
February 26, 2011, 10:44 AM
I agree with kwhi43, it just doesn't take that long. A drop of Ballistol on the threads and back in they go. Besides how are you going to get the nipple channels clean with the nipples sticking up in the way.

February 26, 2011, 10:46 AM
I just leave 'em on and wash 'em in the shower. I think it'd hurt pretty bad to take 'em off.

(sorry, hadda do it)

February 26, 2011, 11:03 AM
One possible answer left off the the poll: Not sure, I'll ask my wife or girlfriend:neener:

February 26, 2011, 11:40 AM
You can buy little dental toothpicky thingies (technical term) that are tiny with bristles on the wire shank. They clean out the flash holes fine or else use a can of compressed air to clean out the nipples.

February 26, 2011, 06:28 PM
I don't understand why you wouldn't remove and clean them after every shoot? It's not like it's difficult to do.

All I do is remove the grips, pop out the cylinder and ram, cock the hammer and throw it all (except the grips) in the dishwasher on the pots and pans cycle.

February 26, 2011, 06:46 PM
I reckon if it aint broke dont fix it only time im going to remove my nipples
is if they are causing cap misfires.and if by that time they are hopelessly lodged in the cylindar ill just get a new cylindar.

because knowing me there is a much greater chance of breaking something
losing something or stripping a thread taking out the nipples all the time.

plus i think excesive removal will cause the nipples and threads to loosen up
i kind of like how they are nice and sealed at the moment:neener:

February 27, 2011, 07:36 PM
Unless, as one of the early posts said, you're using something like anti-seize on the threads, you are taking a big risk not removing them to clean and dry them each time. It is also hard to really clean and dry the rear of the chambers without removing the nipples.

February 27, 2011, 07:41 PM
Look at the poll results...overwhelmingly 'remove the nipples each clean up'

February 27, 2011, 11:46 PM
I do a fair amount of mechanicin' here on the farm. Anything that runs in harsh conditions...and is going to be removed at some point....gets a dose of NEV-R-SIEZE. Especially itty bitty parts that are hard to get a wrench on.

Air compressors are really handy when cleaning up bp guns.

March 1, 2011, 06:23 PM
I think removing the cones for cleaning between stages might be too much, maybe every third stage...:evil:

The posse keeps complaining because I have them on their hands and knees looking for the ones I drop. They need to quit complaining, they are being taught culture and grace.


And yes, I did mean stages and not matches...

March 2, 2011, 12:45 AM
I went with.... If properly greased, nipples can wait 1 year or more before needing to be removed for cleaning. The reason is, I used to clean them after every shooting session, then one day I stripped the cylinder threads thinking I screwed the nipple in straight, cost $50 for a new cylinder!!! I'm not going to re-tap and have weaker threads.... so yeah, I yearly clean them with special care of screwing them back in... However I do clean them after every shooting while the nipples are in the cylinders.

March 2, 2011, 08:25 AM
I guess the mechanically challenged should not remove the nipples too often! :banghead:

March 2, 2011, 09:58 AM
Chaz. You are correct.

I make sure the threads are properly handled (anti seize) when I do clean and cease to worry after that.

If others choose to clean between shots, fine! Your guns.

March 2, 2011, 09:58 AM
I have no idea how often they need to be removed; but I do it each time I clean the weapon. Mainly, I do it because I had a heck of a time initially removing the nipples from one of the guns I purchased. I promised myself that I would never let that happen to any of my guns again. Anti-seize is your friend.

March 2, 2011, 12:43 PM
...If others choose to clean between shots, fine! Your guns.

Now that's an idea I hadn't considered... :evil:

I was in the process of setting up my 18Volt cone removal system with torque limiter and automatic nickel doped anti-seize dispenser. There has to be a market! I'll bet I can sell five before 2016. :rolleyes:

Seriously though, I used to worry about moisture in the threads because I submerged my cylinders when cleaning after matches. You know that I normally use two pairs of '60s as my main match guns and back-ups so I decided to run a test.

I started out alternating between sets at matches, cleaning one set with total dis-assembly and the other with just barrel and cylinder removal. The lightly cleaned guns had the frame groups cleaned with sprayed on moose milk. After a month I realized alternating was going minimize my data so I switched by taking one pistol from one set and one from the other, however I maintained the cleaning regimen I had started for each pistol.

This went on for a little over 3 more months until I accidentally dis-assembled the wrong pistol. I often clean while on my truck's tailgate or on a picnic table after a match while talking to friends. Stupid me...Thinking it was the normally stripped down pistol I was wondering how it had gotten so dirty in the trigger group from just 40 rounds when I realized I had stripped the wrong pistol. I hadn't washed the frame components yet so I decided to hold off on the cleaning until I got home and compare it to the one that had been shot in only two matches (probably 120 rounds). That pistol had been set aside without further cleaning beyond than the simple one I described earlier (I did liberally apply some heavy rust preventative to the exterior, cylinder and bore before bagging it).

The frame internally was filthy, it contained BP residue that had mixed with moose milk and then dried between cleanings and had a black film on most everything. There were even small fragments of copper cap material stuck to the remaining lubricating grease. The hammer/ hand/ bolt/ trigger still had traces of a very sticky molybdenum doped lubricant at the interfaces. This lubricant resists water and won't wash off easily without a soap or detergent so the action still worked without a noticeable difference from the one I stripped after every match.

The mate to it which had been used in two matches and then set aside for the balance of the time was also surprisingly dirty, it just had a lower level of grunge in the "innards."

After removing the cones from both pistols I inspected all of the threaded holes for any evidence of corrosion or water infiltration. I couldn't tell any difference between those two pistols or the other pair which were the ones I removed the cones before submersion.

So after all of that "blather" what is my conclusion? Just as you said, if you use a quality anti-seize compound on the threads you're not going to have a problem even if you submerge your cylinders on a regular basis to clean.

However I always use two brushes to rigorously scrub the exterior of the cones during my cleanings. One is a very stiff bristle brush to clean the sides and the cone "pocket" on the cylinder, the other is a small brass bristle brush I use to assure I have cleaned the cap seating surface down to the metal.


March 2, 2011, 05:26 PM
When I get around to cleaning the interior of my pistols I find, as you described, a lot of grunge. However since I clean between matches with a moosemilk made from from Ballistol, the grunge is a slick slimy mess. I infrequently find cap fragments. To remove the mess, I hold the gun under a cold water faucet until the visible grunge is gone, blow dry with an air compressor, spray with fresh Ballistol and button her up for another go around.
People grossly over think the care and cleaning required.

March 2, 2011, 06:24 PM
I guess the mechanically challenged should not remove the nipples too often! :banghead:

Haha :p .... I am some what mechanically challenged... Just a few months ago I stuck a screwdriver through my hand while replacing a double pole breaker. I'm pretty scarred up from self mutilation. lol Though that cylinder stripping was from being in a hurry, my bad.... It's not hard to strip the cylinder, those Pietta threads and some of the hardware is too soft to my liking.

March 2, 2011, 08:34 PM
i'm gonna throw in with the once a year gang IF the nips are lubed with anti -seize.

as stated by another poster ...crack 1/4 turn just to check on threads and tighten to snug.

i fired close to 100 shots and checked ...i pulled one nip, just a slight powder coat of soot on the face. threads were all still clean with anti-seize.
cleaned the cap side with a pipe cleaner after cleaning the cylinder, then set in the oven on 150' for eight minutes....go to go!

i feel pulling them out each and every time may produce thread wear & increases the chance of cross threading them upon retightening working with mild steel here....& bad eyes;) just my 2 cents.....


March 2, 2011, 10:12 PM
Over 64% of the respondents say they pull them every cleaning session. There must be something to it. :cool:

March 2, 2011, 11:56 PM
Over 64% of the respondents say they pull them every cleaning session. There must be something to it. :cool:
nah... we're just anal.

March 3, 2011, 09:45 AM
Over 64% of the respondents say they pull them every cleaning session. There must be something to it.
They enjoying pulling them I guess ;)

March 3, 2011, 09:09 PM
Mine aren't removable. I just wash them while I'm in the shower. ;)

March 3, 2011, 10:00 PM
I have heard it stated that C&B shooters develop a more intimate relationship with their revolvers then the suppository (cartridge) shooters, so I guess the nipple pulling thing must be part of it. Not for me. As I said before, after a shooting session sometimes all my guns get is a quick whore's bath. I don't have time to shave their legs too.:evil:

March 5, 2011, 03:33 PM
Suppository shooters!!! Oh god that's funny. I've never heard that before.


Texas Moon
March 5, 2011, 03:41 PM
I do them after every shoot.

Maybe not a definite need to do but on the next shooting I never have any problems either.

Foto Joe
March 6, 2011, 10:37 AM
Is it still considered a "Suppository" if it's filled with Black Powder?

March 6, 2011, 11:55 AM

If you stick it in from the rear, it's a suppository no matter what the Rx is!

Foto Joe
March 6, 2011, 12:15 PM
Jeez, you guys can be cold sometimes!!

Shoot The Moon
March 6, 2011, 05:53 PM
Don't think anyone has posted with my particular 'cheat' for keeping the threads on the nipples clean - PTFE plumbers tape.

Remove the nipple, clean the threads, wrap some PTFE tape round the thread on the nipple and screw them back in. Repeat 6-12 monthly depending on use.

Works for me - YMMV.......

March 6, 2011, 06:38 PM
Wrapping the threads with Teflon tape works well? I would have thought that melting could be an issue.

So do you wrap the threads with tape and still use some anti-seize? r s Teflon tape all that is needed?

March 6, 2011, 09:46 PM
Don't think anyone has posted with my particular 'cheat' for keeping the threads on the nipples clean - PTFE plumbers tape.

Remove the nipple, clean the threads, wrap some PTFE tape round the thread on the nipple and screw them back in. Repeat 6-12 monthly depending on use.

Works for me - YMMV.......
Shoo the Moon,
Are you really, really sure there is enough clearance for teflon tape on straight threads? Tape works great with tapered pipe threads but there isn't enough clearance for it with a thread like a 12-28 Uberti or a Pietta 6 X 0.75mm.

If you remove the cone you will probably find there isn't any tape down in the threads.

Anti-seize works better and is inexpensive.


March 15, 2011, 12:44 PM
i just take the hawken outa the stock,put back end in bucket hot soapy water,put patch over bristle brush,run it up and down till its clean,let dry and lil patch with oil on till next patch through before loading

March 15, 2011, 02:25 PM
I don't think it was mentioned but, we were talking about revolvers. At least that is my impression.

March 15, 2011, 03:42 PM
It's an equal opportunity poll & thread and all nipples share something in common.
Plus it wasn't specified. ;)

March 15, 2011, 03:46 PM
I KNEW it would be YOU to dance on my head!

Shoot The Moon
March 19, 2011, 06:13 PM
I have never really paid much attention to how much of the PTFE tape is left - there's always some, so I didn't question further. I'm fairly sure I picked this tip originally from the MLAGB - link below - and I will remove the nipples on my 51 to check. There's a tube of copper grease in the garage, so I have 'plan B' to hand.

Cheers for pointing that out.

March 20, 2011, 02:43 PM
After every shooting session for me ... I know it's a pain, but it's all part of the BP experience:)

March 22, 2011, 12:35 AM
I shoot an inline CVA Buckhorn as traditionally as possible, yeah that's a bit of a contradiction to say the least.
As traditional hunting rules have it here in Idaho an exposed # 11 cap, loose powder charge lead bullet and muzzle loading allow an inline to go traditional hunting.

In seeing other hunters and what they have done I followed suit and installed a different breech plug in my Buckhorn and nipple for the #11 caps. The loading is a very precise deal, go ahead and laugh but I measure my powder charges on a grains scale. After dumping the powder in the muzzle the rifle gets either a few bumps to the butt on the ground or a couple heal driven smacks from one hand to settle the powder as far back into the breech plug and nipple as possible.

Anyway, I remove the breech plug and nipple after every 15 shots fired being I'm using the #11 cap with 777 powder, I've had miss fires if I go to 20 shots without cleaning. Being the rifle is set for cleaning I go ahead and get the bore while it's all pulled apart. New Teflon tape on both the nipple and breech plug and I'm ready to go again. Anti-seize has scared me a few times really having to torque on the breech plug so I just use the Teflon tape and don't need to worry about it coming apart again.

March 22, 2011, 12:33 PM
Shoot the Moon and Wylie1,
I'm not trying to be difficult but I don't see how you are actually accomplishing anything with teflon tape. Tape is intended to be used with pipe threads which are tapered. A good plumber, pipe fitter, or machine builder will tell you that you don't use tape even on pneumatic and hydraulic fittings that are not N.P.T. fittings. A lot of terminal connections are straight machine threads instead of NPT.

Your cones and the corresponding threaded hole they fit into are most probably class 2 threads which are the most common (2A for the external threads and 2B for the internal). The only real clearance you have is at the crests and roots of the parts the flanks don't have sufficient clearance to allow tape unless your cone thread fit is very sloppy. For instance with a class 2 thread (which is not a tight class) the clearance can be as little as .00058” on the flanks. The most it should ever be is .0024” I just don’t know where your tape is going except being cut and shoved into the clearance at the root/crest areas. So basically what that means is that you can actually create a helical path for the gas to escape if the thread is centered by the fit set by the tape jammed into the clearance areas.

That’s why it is “verboten” to use tape on straight threads in critical hydraulic fittings.

If you use any metal filled anti-seize it will completely fill any open space there is and as you tighten it, it still allows the threads to bias along the axis and create the interface on the backside flank of the external thread against the inside flank of the internal thread. That is why fasteners or threaded parts are not tight until either a head or boss bottoms out on a surface perpendicular to the thread axis.

For our purposes it doesn’t really matter if you use either copper, aluminum or nickel doped anti-seize. Almost all of them also have graphite in them. For our temperatures, environments and materials they all work. I use the nickel doped material because it is better for stainless which I have other applications that require it.


Foto Joe
March 22, 2011, 12:43 PM
I've got to agree with Mako, the teflon tape thing just doesn't make sense to me, besides it's got to be a major pain to put the stuff on. It's not like you are worrying about gas escaping around the threads, the escaping gas will take the path of least resistance which is of course the flash hole.

I just put a drop of Ballistol on the threads when I put the nipples back in and run them down pretty much finger tight. On the other hand, they DO get removed when the gun gets a bath. If you're going to leave them in at cleaning time, I'd stick to never seize of some sort. Then again, if you take them out when you clean, you won't have to worry about them freezing into the thread from corrosion will you?:neener:

March 22, 2011, 02:00 PM
It's not like you are worrying about gas escaping around the threads, the escaping gas will take the path of least resistance which is of course the flash hole.

Many dedicated inline shooters do wrap their breech plugs with various types of Teflon tape because doing so has been shown to be effective. And some use grease with tape.
If someone claims that it also works with their nipples too then I tend to believe them because the tolerances of every nipple and thread are different. Teflon tape is used on many types of gas fittings for a reason, where there may not be anywhere near the amount of heat and pressure involved as there is with a muzzle loader.

....I carry white, pink, and yellow on my truck (I'm a plumber, but also install black iron gas lines)

I have one inline (a Traditions) that the breech plug will seize if I use grease only. First time I took it to the range (anti-seize lube only) I actually had to remove the breech plug with an impact wrench. The plug allows so much blowback (the dirt gets so far back in the threads) that it will break loose fairly easily, then seize after about 1/4 to 1/2 turn out.

I found the yellow tape would work on the breech plug the fit is so bad.
With the yellow tape it's "hard to put in - hard to take out" for the breech plug, but at least it will come out.

I'd say the pink tape would be a good one to start with on most breech plugs. It's similar to white in thickness, but much denser (for comparison think of a tight weave fabric - a lot more material in the same area).

BTW - I use tape and "dope" on all my pipe joints and have had no problems with leaks in the past 10+ years since I started using both. I do the same with the breech plug.

Shoot The Moon
March 22, 2011, 04:48 PM
Aha. Even mildly heated debate was never my intention - to be truthful, I never considered any of the science/engineering side of this, just found the MLAGB article (or maybe a similar one, it was a while back), thought it sounded sensible and put the tape on. Last time it was applied was on my Uberti 51 which has the Treso nipples. I also had the tape on my ROA. When I remove them, I pull the bits of torn up tape off and replace with new, without a second thought.

Having read the science/engineering argument, I will use copper grease from now on. Hope my nipples don't sieze! (oo-er) :D

March 23, 2011, 06:17 AM

March 27, 2011, 02:32 PM
:cool:They should be removed and cleaned, threads lubed every time they are fired...

March 27, 2011, 06:03 PM
Ditto on "SG" -do it every session. For many years, I have used plain ordinary vasilene on breach plugs, and nipple threads. Washes off easily with hot water, and does not gum up as a petroleum product might on BP. Costs a lot less than anti-seize. A small jar will last for years, and a small artist brush does the job

March 27, 2011, 07:25 PM
Vaseline is a brand name for petroleum jelly. :confused:

March 28, 2011, 12:13 AM
+1 on washing in the shower.

March 28, 2011, 05:38 AM
OK - I spelled vaseline wrong lol. For some reason "petroleum jelly" does not gum up on contact with black powder as other grease products do. I think we went through a thread on the subject last year.

March 29, 2011, 04:34 PM
i strip down my ss rugers,remove cylinder,grips and base pin and pop them in the dishwasher

Riot Earp
April 3, 2011, 09:39 AM
If you advocate or stress the need for nipples to come out after every shooting session then a lot of folks are just gonna hang them up and decide C&Bs are too much work ... I know people who would completely disassemble, boil the parts, scrub, dry, oil, reassemble (including nipples), etc. Guess what? They are no longer shooting perCUSSIN' revolvers as "it takes/took way too much time to clean them".


April 3, 2011, 12:47 PM
Not so much 'Wisdom' as dumbing down the masses!

April 3, 2011, 12:54 PM
Every time i go shooting i take off the nipples and clean them. We have all talked about it when shooting the sulfur can do damage to the metal in your gun. Thats the main purpose why you clean it. What do you think the sulfur just bypasses the nipples. Everything that the sulfur may come in contact with needs to be cleaned then a nice coat of some kind of protectant put on the metal other wise rust may happen to your gun. I dont take anychances im not playing poker or gambeling with my guns. they get shot with real black powder and the subs and they get cleaned accordingly.

Indian Outlaw
April 3, 2011, 04:22 PM
Well, no one here has advocated not cleaning our guns. But there is also such a thing as overkill. And people new to cap & ball shooting may not continue long if cleaning becomes onerous. I would rather see a person disassemble their guns twice a year for a total cleaning (and perhaps run the risk of a little rust that can be easily removed) than to see them attempt to do it every week and quit in disgust after a few months. If a less thorough cleaning will keep them in the sport, and thereby help our sport to grow, then that is what I will advocate. Some people are lazier than others, but even the laziest among us can still enjoy the sport.

Anytime you have a poll, there will be a difference of opinion.

Dave Markowitz
April 4, 2011, 10:04 AM
I've been in the "every shooting session" camp but this thread has given me some food for thought. I am considering trying putting some good anti-sieze on one of my revolver's nipples and going a few range trips between cleanings, to see how it does. I can see how removing the nipples each and every time could lead to excessive wear.

I wonder how pipe joint compound would work for this. Anybody try it?

April 4, 2011, 12:42 PM
Yeah Dave, you'll really love leaving the nipples in instead of doing a proper cleaning after shooting, especially if you are lazy. :p

April 5, 2011, 10:38 AM
The most obvious thing seen on this thread is the fact that all systems employed work.

The fact that you may favor one system over the other and attempt to make your point with sarcasm means nothing.

Anyone that sticks a nipple will immediately change their system for one of the others.

Do I remove mine after each shoot? No.
Do I intend to change? No.
Am I impressed by those that do? No.

Fingers McGee
April 5, 2011, 04:30 PM
Am I impressed by those that do? No.

:uhoh: another bubble burst :( .


April 6, 2011, 12:57 AM
What is this world coming to? Pierced ears, noses, lips, NIPPLES, even unmentionable places and now someone is concerned about CLEANLINESS.

The human body is a beautiful altar why desecrate it?

To clean these pierced sites I suggest a BLOWTORCH!!

June 6, 2011, 10:16 AM
I used to clean mine in the shower, until one day I dropped one of them. Almost knocked myself out when I bent over to pick it up. Make sure you use the contoured ones though, the other ones make your kids have buck teeth.

Mostly, I just thank God every morning I wake up, and they're still there.

I remove the nipples and clean them every cleaning session I can find the blinkin wrench! Which works out to about half the time. I use outers gun grease on threads. I have an nipple pick though. I seldom need it , so naturally I can always find it.:what:

June 6, 2011, 08:05 PM
I don't know about "should." I'm still new to the whole BP thing, and thus far I've cleaned the nipples with every post-range cleanup. A bit of a chore, but also part of the learning process.

Foto Joe
June 6, 2011, 08:13 PM

Clean-up will get faster and easier. It used to take me one hour per gun when I started doing this.

Look at the results for the poll, most folks remove the nipples at bath time.

June 8, 2011, 04:16 AM
After every shooting session, even if it's 5 shots or 30 shots at a rendezvous.....

June 8, 2011, 04:30 AM
Your companions nipples should be washed and oiled daily...

Ohhh... you were talking about GUN NIPPLES.... My Bad...


ElvinWarrior... aka... David, "EW"

June 8, 2011, 04:39 PM
i have changed my mind. i now clean the nipples after each shooting sesh, and the cylinder daily. my morning ritual is to shoot one of my revolvers dry, clean, reload, and do the same with the other and then reload. i practice with my main revolver each day several times, and keep my backup loaded and ready to go.

June 8, 2011, 08:56 PM
If you brush a horse before you ride him to make sure nothing will cause an irritation under the saddle, why would you skip checking his feet to make sure you don't lame him? Same thing with a bp gun! If you're gonna clean some parts, why not do an important part while you're at it....and yes, after every firing session, one cylinder or 30.

June 10, 2011, 02:29 AM
Your losing me on the horse deal, dude.:what:

June 10, 2011, 10:40 AM
Let me bring that statement into a more comtemporay analogy. Not cleaning your nipples is sorta like only checking 3 tires on your vehicle before a trip. Why wouldn't you spend the extra time and check the 4th?

June 10, 2011, 01:02 PM
I liked the horse analogy better! :evil:

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