Can someone offer suggestions on number of reloads are "recommended" for .300 Win Mag (new Rem cases) ? OR what are the "signs" to review in checking the brass ? Obvious cracks, dents, out of round would be pitched out.
I tried to track the number with permanent ink, but tumbling takes it off (as it should).
If you enjoyed reading about ".300 Win Mag CASE LIFE ......" here in TheHighRoad.org archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join TheHighRoad.org today for the full version!
March 2, 2011, 11:37 PM
The number of loadings you can expect from 300 Mag, is hard to predict, as this will greatly depend on how hot you make your loads, the chamber in your gun, if you full length or neck size each time. etc.
As for marking cases, I have seen where people will take a small jewlers file and make a small notch in the edge of the case each time it is reloaded.
March 2, 2011, 11:45 PM
with my 300 wby mag(very similar) I am on my tenth reload with some cases. I load stout, but not "hot" per say. it all depends on whether your pushing the envelope or not
March 3, 2011, 01:04 AM
I load my 300 win mag cases 3 times then anneal the necks and go another 3 reloads and so on until i find issues. I make sure the necks are turned slightly to maintain the neck thickness I need. I full length resize as necessary and make sure the round chambers and I trim the length as required to maintain case length. I retire ALL cases after 20 reloads if they make it that far.
March 3, 2011, 01:09 AM
Clearly depends on your I loading style, chamber, brand of brass, and how you take care of the brass between firings. I load super hot for my 7mm rem. mag. using light bullets from 100 grain up to 130 grain bullets. RL22 charges are always at the top of the listed data.
Number cycles on the minimum is 8 or 9 with Remington brass. And with Winchester brass I get 12 plus cycles. The number of loadings is pretty much the same from both of my Remington actions even though they have fairly different chamber dimensions.
March 3, 2011, 08:27 AM
only thing I have to add is that if your neck sizing, then you can expect to get a few more loadings out of that brass.
Also I seem to remember that some folk use the primer seating stage to check for wear. If it goes in too easy then you might need to put it in the recycle bucket.
March 3, 2011, 07:10 PM
I shot my 300 Win. many years in Wyoming for elk. I used to shoot max loads with a 165 gr. bullet. I never worried about how many times I reloaded a particular case. I straightened out a heavy paper clip and very carefully brought one of the ends to a sharp point. I would then insert the sharp point of the clip into the mouth of the case and scrape the tip of the paper clip all around the case in the area just above the belt. If I felt the tip catching on a rough surface the case went into the garbage can. You have to make sure that what you feel inside the case is actual stretching of the case and not powder residue. Just keep scratching and if the roughness doesn't go away it's not powder residue. It's easy to learn what your feeling for once you do it. I have used this method for all my belted cases and have never had any problems.
March 4, 2011, 08:23 AM
If you will size the brass as if it had no belt it will last longer... use the shoulder for the headspace rather than the belt. The rifle makers will set the barrel to headspace off the belt ... but your resizing die may or may not match the chamber exactly. By using the shoulder, you eliminate the stretching that occurs(case separation) if the brass does not closely match the chamber.
March 4, 2011, 10:07 AM
Neck sizing will fully enable headspacing off the shoulder, rather than the belt. J2Crows is the only person I've ever heard that actually uses the same paper clip method to identify developing case problems, before they become a total case integrity failure. I've never had a belted case fail any where else but above the belt, but that was far more frequent before I started necking years ago.
Primer pockets do get loose after 6 or so cycles, but I find CCI primers have really excellent sealing characteristics. I'm not absolutely sure what is preventing them from leaking, but I've never had one fail in that or any other manner. A long time ago A friend of mine told me because CCIs are beveled on the cup rim, they seal during normal pressure build up as long as they fit tight enough to stay in the pocket after seating them. Considering the high working pressure loads I build, I'm finding some credibility to that explanation.
So far as number of cycles, again, it will completely be dependent on how you load. I don't load for the 300 win. mag. but the 7mm rem. mag is a high working pressure cartridge, and I'm not shy of taking it to it's limits. But even so, it will easily go 8 cycles with softer brass, Remington, and with Winchester or federal brass I get well into 12 cycles or more. I don't know if my loading methods are contributing factors, but accordingly I would think my style would cause premature case failure. my loads are always wroked up maximum powder charges of slow burning powders.
But to answer your question as well as can be. Inspect your brass for exterior and interior signs for initial case separation. Using the sharpened paper clip method to feel for any thing that causes the paper clip to catch on, is a good way to find an interior sign of separation just above, or around the belt. Same on the exterior of the case, look for any cracks developing. I tumble real well after resizing, and then use a magnifying glass to look for initial signs of fracturing. Because the first stages of separation can be easily over looked on a dirty case, I make sure I resize and tumble, inspecting after each of those steps. Not FL sizing in my opinion, makes it easier to spot problems because the case isn't being worked any where but the neck. This eliminates the problem of having to figure out what is resizing marks, and what is separation. I'm considering trying a FL collet die. I've checked into these dies, and apparently they will extend case life substantially longer than even a a neck die will. If I can squeeze another couple of loadings, or more according to what I'm hearing, it may be worth trying it out.
March 4, 2011, 10:54 AM
One method that will reliably tell you that the brass is at the end of it's useful life is the number of times it has been trimmed.
Starting with new brass at SAAMI recommended trim length, I trim the brass fired brass when it reaches the SAAMI recommended maximum length. For me, this is usually three loadings. After three trimmings, I call it "worn out" for full power loads and use it for reduced pressure cast loads.
I've sectioned a lot of "worn out" cases to verify this procedure, and have found the thinning of the brass just forward of the belt justified it's rejection.
March 12, 2011, 06:47 PM
make sure yall carry a 30 caliber case extractor in case of head seperation.may save a hunt
March 12, 2011, 11:20 PM
Link to an back issue of Handloader magazine with a good article on working up loads for the .300 Win Mag in an older commercial Mauser 98 action. Lots of loads, powders, and bullets tried. Using Winchester brass the author was getting neck splits in only one or two loadings.