Torque settings various rifle/scope parts


March 17, 2011, 03:00 PM

I bought a torque wrench to be able to tighten the screws on my rifle properly.
I am sure this has been covered in various topics but couldn't find every single part and there seems to be a lot of disagreement on the exact settings for different rifle and scope parts. Also I don't know if there is a difference between the settings for a Remington 700 and a Mosin Nagant.
I have a mosin nagant with a reproduction PU scope and mount.
I also have a Remington 700 SPS varmint on which I intend to mount an old Redfield scope, 4-screw rings from the same period and a Jr base, I also have a walnut stock that will be pillar bedded.
So for both the Remington 700 and the Mosin Nagant: what torque settings do I need to tighten all the screws to? Action, base, rings, windage screws?

Here are some pictures of the the rifle and scope (no pictures of the Remington yet).

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March 17, 2011, 03:01 PM
Some more pictures.

March 17, 2011, 05:04 PM
General rules of thumb.

Action screws 65 INCH/Pounds
Scope base screws 30 INCH/Pounds
Ring screws 15-20 INCH/Pounds

Notice these settings are INCH/Pounds
12 INCH/Pounds are equivilent to 1 FOOT/Pound of torque.

March 17, 2011, 10:50 PM
Is that tool a torque wrench or a torque screwdriver? Just wondering. I see the screwdriver types on shelves that run around 60 bucks. They look pretty handy.

March 18, 2011, 02:09 AM
Thanks for the settings Onmilo. I knew about the Inch pounds, but it is always good to mention. I should have put it in my post.

I have a wrench, I have been looking at the Wheeler FAT Wrench, but came across one that was prices well so I took it. It is actually intended for bicycles but can adjust from 17,6 to about 212 inch pounds of force (2-24Nm actually), so it should be more than suitable for the range I need for firearms.

March 18, 2011, 06:15 PM
just out of curiosity, how do yo0u get the screw heads on the screws? Extension from the wrench? Got a pic of of it?

March 19, 2011, 12:53 AM
Good tool for shooting. Consistency is your friend : )

One of the best things I ever did was get all those bits and pieces screwed together at the proper tension.

March 19, 2011, 02:03 PM
The wrench has a standard head on which you can click different kids of extensions.
Redbullitt, I agree, concistancy = accuracy.
I just tightened all the screws on my Mosin Nagant especially the scope mount screws. Man, what a difference with how I had tightened them by hand, some way to hard, some not enough.
Oh, and see my custom hand made rifle-maintenance-station :D $2,- worth of glue, the rest I had lying around, works better than a $100 Tipton.

March 19, 2011, 10:22 PM
nice set up. Thanks for going thru the trouble to post those pics.

March 19, 2011, 11:10 PM
I talked a neighbor into using an inch-lb torque wrench: Harbor Freight-$26

March 20, 2011, 05:13 AM
No problem Pacsd. If you want more pictures just ask.
I looked at the one from Harbor Freight, seems exactly the same one except the handle.

March 24, 2011, 12:42 PM
It's good that you are using some form of torque application. One thing to remember is; when tightening the action screws, ALWAYS torque the front screw first.

April 2, 2011, 10:10 PM
From Barsness, I believe:

Leupold, Talley & Echols recommend that 6-48 ring or base screws be tightened to 15-18 inch-pounds (thumb and two fingers on driver), and 8-40 screws to 28-35 inch-pounds. Most manufacturers recommend 20-something inch-pounds for ring screws. That is sufficient for a .458 Lott, and won’t mark a scope, unless the ring edges are sharp.

April 5, 2011, 06:08 PM
that is funny how you menchon the difference. When i worked on aircraft i saw the new guys once use ft lbs. Its hilarious when they would snap them and have to extract them out.

April 5, 2011, 11:27 PM
It was not until I bought my Wheeler fat wrench that I realized how overly tight I was tightening my scope screws.

April 9, 2011, 11:01 PM
What omilo said is what I generally use. I use a driver from Brownells for bases and rings. I see over torqued mounts and rings all the time and I refer to it as "farmer tight", meaning they always give it a 1/4 turn after it stops. I've seen a lot of scopes damaged from the farmer syndrome, not to mention they always strip the heads on the screws. I also apply a light coat of release agent to the inside of the rings, let it dry then mount the scope.

April 10, 2011, 01:03 AM
Torque it down till it strips, and then back it off half a turn !!

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