Wolff Springs


April 12, 2011, 09:58 PM
Been practicing with A-Zoom snap caps and my 44SS4. The double action draw is tiring even after I practice for a short while... 50 shots or so. I've heard a lot about Wolff springs making it more enjoyable to shoot DA.

I've had some light strikes with my revolver during local competition doing double action.

My question is: "What makes the DA draw lighter the hammer spring or the trigger spring?"

I'm thinking lighter hammer spring will give me more light strikes. If the trigger spring makes it all the easier to go DA, I'd be much happier with replacing that alone.

Or am I wrong? Will a lighter trigger spring help, but not really alleviate the heavy draw back?

Thanks for your advice. I always appreciate your experiences.

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April 12, 2011, 11:08 PM
While the springs are part of the solution to a heavy trigger the parts in the actions that move against each other play a large part in trigger pull. Some gun designs use geometry that results in less mechanical advantage over the hammer cocking and there's not a lot to be done on them. The first thing to do is tear it down and look for and eliminate burrs and rough machined surfaces with a stone. Don't remove a lot of metal, just get all of the high spots flat and reasonably smooth. Don't touch the hammer hooks and sear surfaces unless you have the proper jigs and knowledge to maintain the correct angles. On a S&W action any change in angles or DA sear letout will cause major problems. Reducing the hammer spring will usually give more percieved reduction in pull weight but going too light will result in some brands of cartridges not firing. It also causes the hammer to fall slower (increased lock time) which gives you more time to pull the sights off the target before the gun actually fires. Lightening the trigger return spring will also lighten the DA pull weight but at the cost of slowing down the trigger's return to the forward position. Guns with a too light return spring make you wait for the trigger to keep up with your finger in DA shooting. Jerry Miculek actually likes heavier than stock springs so the gun can keep up with his finger. He can also crush walnuts in his hands. It's all about compromise. On a range only gun you can go pretty light but on a carry gun it's much better to learn to deal with a little heavier pull and know that the thing will fire EVERY time. If you buy a spring kit there are usually 3 trigger return springs. Use the middle weight and see what you think. The best thing is to build up the muscles in your hands and the gun will seem to be easier to shoot. Using a frame size and grips that fit your hands and smoothing the edges of the trigger help a lot also. I personally love N frame S&Ws but they are just a tad large for my hand size. An K or L frame is about perfect for most folks. On a range gun if you use only Federal primers and seat them to the bottom of the pocket you can go ridiculously light on the action and get 100% reliability. Stick any other brand in it and it will start misfiring.

April 13, 2011, 03:37 PM
That was a great explanation. Thanks!

April 13, 2011, 05:27 PM
You're very welcome.

April 13, 2011, 05:55 PM
On the other hand...

...I just got my S&W Model 36 back from a genuine S&W EXPERT gunsmith: John Treakle in Port Angeles, WA.

I asked him to clean up the insides (I don't think it had ever been opened up) and smooth and lighten the trigger. He sent it back with the original hammer and trigger springs in a bag - but I'm not sure what he replaced them with.

All I know is that my M36 is now one of the smoothest sweetest triggers I've ever experienced! Not so easy to do with a J frame snubby. The trigger weight is only slightly lighter, but it's as smooth as butter. If he can do that to an M36 - I can't wait to see what he does with my M19.

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