30 or 40 degrees on your edc?


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sidheshooter
April 24, 2011, 06:26 PM
I'm curious as to other's philosophies on putting an edge on tactical/backup blades-what type of edge and why.

Also, how do you sharpen your own knives? Freehand? Tool assists like the spyderco triangle? Coffee cups and car windows? Send it out to a pro, or back to the manufacturer?

Frankly, even after decades of collecting and EDC, I still can't really sharpen worth a darn, so I'm interested in learning how you all maintain your edges.

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SpaceFrank
April 24, 2011, 06:32 PM
I bought a Lansky controlled-angle sharpener, which I still haven't completely mastered. I've been putting a 25 degree angle on my Benchmade folder, but it's not really a combat knife either.

M-Cameron
April 24, 2011, 06:36 PM
depends on the knife.........


some of my knives i use a lansky system on......does a good job of putting an edge on a knife.....i use this on most of my EDC and working knives

....other knives i free hand........those are the knives that get razor sharp edges......this is mostly for my 'sharp as hell for no reason' knives.

as for edge angle.....again, depends on the knife.......for my hard use knives and "outdoor" knives.....i typically put a 50* angle on them

for my edc knives......i like a 40* edge........gives me a suitable cutting edge and i dont have to sharpen it every other day......

for a defensive knife.......its not going to be used all the time ( hopefully not at all)......so you should have no problem with a 30* edge on it........


as for learning....the best thing you can do is buy a few cheap knives ( <$10)....and a simple sharpening stone......and practice it.........

dayhiker
April 24, 2011, 07:01 PM
I own but two knives, and freehand sharpen both on a DC4 combo ceramic/diamond stone.

Since I sharpen in a slow circular motion my SAK is almost fully convexed by now. My Fallkniven F1 is/always was convexed.

I like convex edges and feel I lose minimal (if any) slicing ability with them.

Fred Fuller
April 24, 2011, 09:06 PM
I use a Gatco now after having used a Lansky for a couple of decades. Working knives here get a 19 degree bevel, and get touched up on the kitchen knife block steel as needed until they need resharpening.

http://www.greatamericantool.com/sharpeners.mgi

lpl

lemaymiami
April 24, 2011, 09:25 PM
Since I have several categories of knives (EDC, working blades for fish cutting, and four star Heinckel kitchen knives) all are sharpened the same but using different stones. The EDC gets soft arkansas oil stone followed by a hard stone using fine oil until the blade will really cut and you can feel and see a shine on the sharpened area. Fishing knives (Forschners and others from six inch boning blades all the way up to 12 & 14" scimitars) are sharpened with a water stone (but will make a trip to a professional if badly chipped). Kitchen knives also get the water stone treatment, but that stone never leaves the kitchen. All are free hand sharpened (I was taught to sharpen in one direction only, like you were trying to cut a thin slice off of the stone).

Fishing knives rarely see the fine side of a water stone, usually the coarse side leaves a working edge that's very satisfactory. I couldn't tell you the edge angle but it's never a fine one for a working blade. When you're working through large fish with heavy bones the bigger blades really shine and make that chore quick to work through (years ago we regularly worked through 300 or more pounds at a time before delivering the catch to nearby restaurants). These days my fish cutting activities are greatly reduced but it's still nice to have the right cutting tool for the job.

sm
April 24, 2011, 09:35 PM
Freehand.

Edge varies with the knife and tasks. Some are around 10 to 12 degrees and to a mirror finish, others are only to about 600 grit, and about 20 degrees. I'd have to look, but some are probably 400 grit, and 25 degrees .

My Case yellow handled, CV blade Peanut though, has scared the daylight out of folks...

How raised, what you do.

Jotobo
April 24, 2011, 10:01 PM
I was thinking of just getting a 1000 and a 3000 grit whetstone. I have a Benchmade folder and a Ka Bar.

JShirley
April 24, 2011, 10:12 PM
Spyderco Sharpmaker works great, and is almost foolproof.

M-Cameron
April 24, 2011, 11:03 PM
I was thinking of just getting a 1000 and a 3000 grit whetstone. I have a Benchmade folder and a Ka Bar.

that high a grit seems a little excessive for the knives at hand.........

for an everyday folder.....im not sure youd notice a discernible difference with anything really over 600-800 grit...........

and with the kabar......i couldnt imagine needing anything more than 600

hso
April 24, 2011, 11:37 PM
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=8341

40 degrees isn't used for knives, AFAIK. I may freehand or use a Gatco or Sharpmaker or even the top of a car window.

If you're having problems maintaining an angle you should try a Lansky or even one of the Smiths power sharpeners. Not everyone can maintain a steady angle.



From Cutler's Cove

Sharpening angles and how to determine what angle to sharpen your knife:

18 degree Angle --- A severe angle only recommended for razor blades, X-Acto blades, scalpels or similar tools. Provides an extremely sharp but delicate edge.

20 degree Angle --- A commonly used angle for higher quality blades and provides an excellent edge for fine kitchen cutlery.

25 degree Angle --- The recommended angle for most knives that need a durable, sharp edge. Ideal for hunting and outdoor knives.

30 degree Angle --- An outstanding angle for knives that see the heavy use of cutting cardboard, wire or carpets. Recommended for heavy duty use.

ArfinGreebly
April 25, 2011, 09:36 AM
Buck now uses a 15° per side angle for their production knives (that's 30° total included angle).

I have some Mora knives that are more like 12°-14° per side/24°-28° included, and some EKA knives that are even shallower, but I "micro bevel" them at about 15° per side, as I find that less than 24° (included) dulls too quickly.

If I recall correctly, the common Lansky rig has a 17° per-side setting, which should produce a nice-n-slicey edge with decent durability on blades of most modern steels.

I'm not sure if any of mine have a 20° per side/40° included angle . . . well, maybe my hatchet. Oh, and possibly one of the Järvenpää Leuku knives: that one is convex ground and might arguably have an angle like that. Darned thing has a polished edge, though, and it cuts like a much shallower grind. (When I opened its package, the thing slipped out of its sheath and grazed my hand as it fell. Opened my palm right up. Good times.)

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