Trigger & Accuracy of the Ruger M77 and M77 Mark II


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nico
January 13, 2004, 01:24 AM
I got a M77 Mark II in .270win for christmas and since then have been looking for info on the gun. I've found a bunch of comments (some on this site) about how inaccurate the M77 is and how bad the trigger is. I've also seen quite a few people say that this reputation was due to the multiple barrel sources used for the original M77. They said that the Mark II barrel is hammer forged by Ruger and that it should have out-of-the box accuracy comparable to the M70 and Remington 700. This is my first rifle (I've fired about 10 rounds with a 30-30 at 100 yards) and I know that however it shoots, it will outshoot me for a while, but I was wondering if someone can attest to the Mark II's accuracy or lack thereof.

Also, I've seen a few aftermarket triggers online for as little as $60 (I think they're made by Timney). Since this will only be the second rifle I've fired, I know I probably don't have a feel for what a "good" and "bad" trigger feels like. How does a trigger affect accuracy? Would a 2.5-3lb trigger be worth the money or is it something I woudln't notice while hunting and shooting recreationally?

My gun will primarily be used for deer hunting so it isn't a huge deal if it shoots 2" groups at 100 yards instead of 1" groups or if the trigger is 6lbs or 3lbs, but curiosity is getting to me and I'd like to have a feel for when the day comes that the gun is limiting my shooting and not my skill.
Thanks for reading and any answers you can give:)

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standingbear
January 13, 2004, 04:26 AM
i have a m77(the mark 2 i believe) an if its any consolation..its got a tasco 6-24x scope,harris long bipod.its the 1 gun in my entire collection(ok..my small collection lol)that i find is unchallenging at times because of its accuracy.i dial it in to focus and get the range-have taken many many groundhogs with it from 50 yards out to 350 yards..yes,mines very accurate..i can slide a dollar bill from the front of the wood forearm back to the receiver-between the barrel and wood.the barrel sets in there nice and smooth.i dont know about being hammer forged..it works for me.the only thing i dislike about it is the floorplate.i believe its alloy and yes..i have scratched it.mines chambered in 223 remington.it loves the vmax ballistic tipped stuff.i got mine after a friend,whom has an 22-250 in an older m77,let me shoot his.same scope set up.i lost 20 dollars on a long range bet..i gained a good varmit rifle on his recommendation.

dakotasin
January 13, 2004, 07:47 AM
the older rugers had spotty accuracy at times, but they could be made to shoot quite nicely if you had the time. in fact, i really like the old tang safety guns. don't worry about the accuracy of your new ruger. it will be fine. each gun is an individual, so even if it does shoot poorly (unlikely), that says nothing about the next ruger on the line. rugers are sensitive to how tight the action screw is (front). if accuracy is sub-par, letting some pressure off that screw would be my first step...

ruger triggers are pretty bad, but so is every other american manufacturer. the reason that ruger gets such flak over the trigger is they are difficult to adjust yourself (where a remington is extremely easy)... so, the gun usually winds up at a 'smith and will cost $30 to get back. but, a good trigger is worth it.

do not replace your trigger now. there's no need for it. once you get 100-150 rounds thru the gun, then you may want to look into replacing/repairing the trigger. but for now, just leave the trigger as is. get used to it, get good with it. then take it to a 'smith.

a trigger will not make a rifle any more or less accurate. a trigger might, however, have a huge impact on a shooter - making the shooter more or less accurate. you will also find as you get more into guns, and your collection grows, that you will begin to notice triggers... and you will eventually lose all patience for poor triggers.

good luck, and don't worry about your gun. it is a fine weapon and will treat you to many deer.

outfieldjack
January 13, 2004, 07:48 AM
M77 Mark II chambered in .270...

I love mine. It was my first deer rifle. I have a Nikon scope on mine and it is VERY accurate. You'll need to find some ammo you like (I use ballistic silvertips) and stick with it. Mine easily shoots 1 inch groups from 100 yards. I have made NO modifications to mine except to clean it and take it out each deer season to re-sight the scope.

Enjoy!

Jaywalker
January 13, 2004, 08:50 AM
nico,

That's a good, basic question, and the previous responders have led you right.

Yes, the M77 (MkI, but not so marked) had multiple barrel sources, and some were very bad.

There are other sources of rifle inaccuracy, however. As mentioned, the shooter is primary, and I find I can shoot more accurately and enjoy shooting more with a lighter trigger than normally comes out of the factory box in these litigation conscious days. Because of the same lawsuit-induced fears that led the manufacturers to deliver heavy trigger pulls, you'll find very little data on how to adjust your own trigger; people normally just suggest a trip to a gunsmith. Trigger adjustment isn't really the first gunsmith chore a new rifle owner should want to tackle anyway - try simpler things first.

I wouldn't worry much about the manufacturing techniques used in barrel making. The term "hammer forged" sounds good, but it's simply a high output method of making barrels using very expensive equipment. Like any other part, its quality is dependent upon how the tooling that made it is used and maintained. I believe hammer-forging makes very credible barrels, easily capable of one inch at 100 yards accuracy, if the tooling has been maintained well. Extreme accuracy guys prefer the other barrel making processes, however, such as "button rifling" and the much more expensive "cut rifling."

Bedding the action and barrel is simple enough, but a bit scary the first time. It generally produces fine results in accuracy, however, and is a good place to start. Fortunately, the basic design of the Ruger (Mk I or Mk II) is such that it doesn't require bedding of the action. The front action screw is angled, rather than prependicular to the action and barrel, and when tightened, pulls the action back into contact with the stock. This is a patented approach, which is probably why the other makers don't use it.

With the Ruger's action not needing bedding, the fore end of the stock can either be "tip bedded" or "free floated" to improve consistency. You don't need to pour epoxy in the whole barrel channel to gain improvements; a very little bit strategically placed will help.

If you have access to the November 03 "Rifle" magazine, author John Barsness has a basic "how-to" article that's even simpler than the instructions that come with a Brownellls' bedding kit.

Some of this can be fun, and I wish I had done some of it before I grew attached to my rifles. Now I hesitiate, because I'm afraid of screwing it up. I did it anyway, but it does raise the stress level.

Jaywalker

Edited to add a description of trigger pull feel: A good trigger pull should feel like "a glass rod breaking," and should be of a weight appropriate to its use. - for hunting, three to four pounds is fine; for formal target shooting, less than a pound of pull weight. The "breaking glass" feel is meant to descibe a very, very abrupt trigger action, not the draggy feel that comes from trigger pressure increasing, decreasing, increasing, etc, followed by a "bang." It's hard to describe with words, but a good trigger is a very nice feel, with no play in the take-up. (About here, someone will generally mention "two-stage" triggers, but they don't apply to your Ruger M77 MkII.)

zahc
January 13, 2004, 02:44 PM
My pop has an old tang-safety one in 6mm that is scary accurate with handloads. Talking dime-size groups. It (did) have a horrible trigger like most all rugers.

Stinkyshoe
January 13, 2004, 07:40 PM
Nico
I friend of mine has a .223 M77. It would shoot dime groups at 100 yards. It was pretty impressive. Sounds like you have a great rifle. Maybe get into handloading and get the trigger done and you'll have a very accurate gun.
Good luck
Luke

longears9
July 13, 2008, 02:40 PM
I purchased my M77 Mark II heavy barreled varmint rifle in 22-250 back in 1994 and have fired thousands of rounds thru it. Many, many prairie dogs here in Montana have bit the dust as a result. I like the trigger and extreme accuracy of this rifle. After having pushed Nosler 40 grain ballistic tips (thousands) down the barrel at 4,300 fps I found that I had damaged the throat of the barrel. I sent it back to Ruger and they installed and finished a new barrel at no cost. The new barrel shoots as well as the old when it was new and undamaged. Just today I went out to our new range here in Lewistown, Mt and printed 2", 5 shoot groups at 200 yards. The Trigger, well it is very crisp and clean but I'm wanting to reduce it from the 4 1/2 lbs. to a 2 lb pull without having to sacrifice it's crispness and clean function. Does anyone know it this trigger IS adjustable? By the way, I've backed off the speed to 3,800 fps with AA 2230 powder this rifle truly is the perverbial "tack driver". Overall I would'nt be reluctant to say that the Ruger products have met if not exceeded all my expectations.

Horsemany
July 13, 2008, 03:58 PM
I believe the heavy barrel varmint guns are the exception though. The varmint versions are VERY accurate IME. Now the sporter weight barrels are a different story from what I've seen. I have a 270 MkII and I've done everything to it. It's been bedded and floated, gunsmith trigger job down to 3 lbs., and it got years of trying new bullets and handloads. It's still a 1 1/4" gun on average even with the loads it likes. I've come to terms with the fact that's as good as this one will do. 1 1/4" is fine for hunting but it's not good enough for bragging on threads like these. And bragging on threads like these is how gun mfgs. sell rifles.

We forget sometimes that just because other guns may shoot 1/2"less @ 100 yds. that doesn't mean the one we have doesn't work. Simply put I believe the Ruger 77's with sporter barrels will be slightly less accurate than most other guns on average. I've seen dozens of them shot along with everything else as a range officer too.

rodregier
July 13, 2008, 05:07 PM
The Ruger 77 MKII in .308Win that I purchased several years ago had poor accuracy. My gunsmith said that the bore diameter at the muzzle was .3095"! After getting it bedded, rebarrelled and replacing the trigger, I was happy with the accuracy. I understand that the current production units have much better barrels today.

ECVMatt
July 13, 2008, 05:50 PM
I put them in all my M-77 MKII's; I have several. It is the single best thing to do to improve accuracy in the rifle. Mine all shoot great and I it is a great gun.

Give it a try.

Matt

Kentucky_Rifleman
March 13, 2010, 05:01 PM
I just picked up a Model 77 Mk I in 7x57. I normally stick to Remington, but I love the 7x57 cartridge, and I got the rifle for 325.00, medium rings included. It's going to be two weeks before I can get to the range, and I was checking old threads, and found this one.

Is there any way (besides shooting) to tell if I got a decent barrel or not? Also, a friend told me the Mk I factory triggers are adjustable - Anyone know about this? I tune Remington triggers all the time, but I've never fooled with the Rugers.

I don't feel skinned - the rifle would go 99%. She was somebody's safe queen :)

Any info would be appreciated.

KR

Starter52
March 13, 2010, 06:22 PM
Kentucky, you stole that Ruger for $325.00.

Kentucky_Rifleman
March 13, 2010, 06:55 PM
Kentucky, you stole that Ruger for $325.00.

I would feel guilty, but a friend of mine runs a little gun store, and picked this up as part of an estate. His store is a little off the beaten path, and when he buys lots like this, he sells the guns that would collect dust on the shelf CHEAPLY to keep his inventory moving.

Mostly he sells a few high-power rifles (.30-06 here in deer country) and tons of 30/30 levers. He said the 7 Mauser would sit on his shelf too long.

I bought a minty Browning A-bolt Medallion in .375 H&H from him two years ago for 525.00 after haggling. He had had it for 3 months - (too big for the natives, although lots of them looked at it:eek:).

KR

Silent Sam
March 13, 2010, 07:29 PM
Well you've got the right approach concerning accuracy, "what you need" instead of "less than MOA all day long if I do my part" bs. As far as Ruger triggers go, if you are happy with it now spend your money on ammo. It will "slick up" to a point just by using it. 'Good' triggers depend on the application and the user. You really don't want a high end target trigger on a hunting rifle. Good is what works for you and builds your shooting confidence. First on my list is consistency. If it doesn't break the same every time it gets fixed immediately. The original MKII triggers and the newer LC6 triggers can be made into very nice hunting triggers for a lot less money than an aftermarket trigger. That $60 aftermarket trigger still has to be installed. If you are good enough to install it and make sure it is safe you are probably good enough to clean up the stock trigger. I'm not knocking the Timney or any other for that matter, whatever makes you a better shot is probably worth it. Other characteristics of a 'good' trigger are, little or no creep-how much do you have to take up before it breaks (although 2 stage triggers can be very good if you are accustomed to them), how much force it takes to break-3 to 4 lbs is generally considered good by most for a hunting trigger, overtravel-how far does the trigger go past the point of breaking which isn't a big concern to me and last but not least is smoothness. A very clean trigger at 6 or even 8 lbs is probably better than a gritty one at 3 lbs. You can tell if you have the newer LC6 if the back of the trigger is hollow. If it is solid it is the older style. The later production MKIIs had the LC6 trigger. Out of the box the newer LC6s are more consistent and generally less gritty but there is nothing wrong w/ the older style that can't be fixed and even the LC6 can be improved w/ a little work if you feel it needs it.
As far as barrels go, there isn't anyway to tell if it will shoot accurately enough any other way than shooting it. Some barrels shoot most any load well and they are gems. Some are very particular about bullet type, weight, velocity etc. In my experience the biggest issue you will have with a new production barrel is copper fouling. A lot of new barrels are roughly finished and accuracy can fall off dramatically after a few rounds. You can hand lap them with an abrasive, fire lap w/ abrasive bullets or just keep shooting and cleaning it. There are many opinions on this barrel break-in thing and some are quite adamant that their method is best. I let the barrel tell me what it needs instead of following a set routine. Lapping is a last resort for me because it just amounts to wear and has to be done right or you can do more damage than you will ever do by shooting. Cleaning is another touchy subject and every one has their own ideas about what is best and what products are best to use. Improper cleaning has probably ruined more barrels than any other single thing. I have some barrels that copper foul enough that after five shots groups start to open up. I have others that have had nothing more than a bore snake pulled through after a shooting session and are finely accurate after hundreds and hundreds of rounds. I don't clean bores 'just because'. If they are shooting well enough I leave them alone regardless of how much copper streaking I can see. Shoot with a purpose and shoot a lot. Use common sense and remember the weak link is generally the nut behind the trigger when accuracy falls off.You've got a fine hunting rifle there, in make and caliber and with a little care it will outlast you. Have fun!

Silent Sam
March 13, 2010, 07:41 PM
Longears9- If your Ruger is a 'Target' model it will have an adjustable trigger. Check your manual or call Ruger-have the serial number handy.

aka108
March 13, 2010, 07:46 PM
Sold all my Rugers and will never own one again.

Silent Sam
March 13, 2010, 07:56 PM
Just to clarify things because I am Ruger guy - There never was and never will be a MKI, just M77. They are push feed w/ a two position tang safety. The M77 MKII followed and is controlled feed w/ a three position 'wing' safety on the bolt. The M77 Hawkeyes are the latest incarnation and are mechanically identical to the MKII, other than the LC6 trigger which did come on the later MKIIs. In fact I believe Ruger will replace an older MKII trigger w/ the new LC6 for a small fee. Whatever the rollmark says is what it is.
Almost forgot - the Hawkeyes also have steel bottom metal which the others did not have.

jmr40
March 13, 2010, 08:18 PM
The $325 was probably a fair price 6 years ago when this thread was started.

06
March 13, 2010, 08:38 PM
For 15+ yrs I used a sporterized '03 for deer hunting and playing. Having shot a bit of comp. when the patterns got too big I replaced it with a 77 in '06 -stainless w/composite furniture. It is the most accurate non target barreled rifle I have ever fired. My wife helped sight it in first at 100 yds and then I clicked the elevation to 220 yds. I fired one time at a flattened drink can wrapped in foil and hit exactly dead center. I unloaded and put it in the case. Still have the can sitting in the rifle cabinet so I can rub my sharp shooting kids nose a bit about how their old paw can shoot. It is a fine shooting rifle and I have absolutely no complaints about it. Longest shot was a running deer at 280 yds. It makes you feel good to know that it is going to hit where it is aimed.

Kentucky_Rifleman
March 13, 2010, 08:48 PM
The $325 was probably a fair price 6 years ago when this thread was started.

Then I feel pretty good about paying it today.

There never was and never will be a MKI, just M77.

Thanks for the clarification. I have the M77 then, as it has the tang safety. I'm a hard-core Remington guy, and the Ruger bolts are relatively new to me. A lot of my buddies shoot them, and they seem pretty satisfied.

Sold all my Rugers and will never own one again.

AKA, what was the problem?

As far as barrels go, there isn't anyway to tell if it will shoot accurately enough any other way than shooting it.

Well, we'll see how it works in 2 weeks. I'll have either a Leupold or old Weaver stuck on it by then.

KR

Silent Sam
March 13, 2010, 08:58 PM
Never even looked at the original post date. He's probably got it figured out by now. I blame Kentucky_Rifleman for resurrecting this :).

Ky Larry
March 13, 2010, 09:26 PM
Installing a Timney trigger in a Ruger Mk II is very quick and easy.In fact, it's almost idiot proof. It must be because I did it. I had to have a few thousands milled off the safety to make it work. Well worth the money. If you've been shooting factory triggers and shoot a rifle with a Timney, you'll know exactly what a good trigger is.

Kentucky_Rifleman
March 13, 2010, 10:12 PM
I just finished giving the new M77 a thorough cleaning. It does indeed have a factory adjustable trigger. It took me about an hour of tuning and fidgeting, but I've got her dialed in now. The trigger is crisp and breaks at 3 pounds on the money on my scale. I lightened it down to 2 pounds+/-, but I never could get the over-travel and creep tweaked to where the trigger broke cleanly, so I had to dial it back out to 3 pounds.

Thanks to all for the advice. It looks like I'll get to go to the range in one week, not two. I'll still have a scope on the gun by then. I've been ruthlessly eying the Weaver M9V Medalist residing on my 95 Mauser. :evil:

KR

Kentucky_Rifleman
March 13, 2010, 10:13 PM
it's almost idiot proof.

Someone, I forget who, once said, "Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool."

KR

Welding Rod
March 13, 2010, 10:54 PM
My experience with the LC6 triggers is the majority are pretty bad... but QC is spotty enough that a decent one makes it through once in a while.

And I don't know who has been fitting safetys at Ruger lately but I have handled several new Hawkeyes that required a rediculous amount force to move the safety lever, two of which were so stiff as to be virtually inoperable while maintaining a shooting grip.

I have fired some recent models in 308 and 7mm Rem Mag that would do about 1.5 - 2 MOA for 5 at 200. I have a 375 Ruger Alaskan that is close to 1 MOA for 5 shots... it might be a MOA gun but the trigger is so horrible that I can't shoot it well enough to know.

ants
March 14, 2010, 12:27 AM
it's almost idiot proof. I once heard the retort:

If you make it idiot-proof, they will make a better idiot.

SHvar
March 14, 2010, 03:50 AM
My M77 mkII long range target rifle is sooo accurate.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z281/SHvar/Picture180-1.jpg
.223, cold hammer forged Ruger made heavy barrel (after Ruger obtained the equipment to make therir own, they stopped outsourcing for barrels).

jw johnson
March 14, 2010, 04:20 AM
My m77 has a factory trigger and there is an adjustment at the base of the trigger. Look up past the trigger guard to the base of the trigger, there should be one there.

Mine is a .270 and is a tack driver. I will never get rid of it.

Silent Rifleman
March 14, 2010, 11:52 AM
Tang M77 Mk1, just had a thread about it. It shot "ok" with no work and factory ammo. Mine showed a HUGE improvement with handloads, trigger can be polished in a matter of minutes if you know what you're doing, and We'll find out today if the glass bedding I did on it this week tightened her up.

Kentucky_Rifleman
March 14, 2010, 12:03 PM
Silent Rifleman - Please keep me posted. I'll get out to the range next weekend to see where I am.

KR

Art Eatman
March 14, 2010, 12:51 PM
Ah, necrothreadia!

Okay, so I picked up a 77 Mk II light sporter in .223, blue/wood, about ten years back. Yucky trigger, but still an easy half-MOA shooter from the bench.

I put in a Timney. The groups weren't tighter; just easier. It's not as good a trigger as others, but it's nice enough for varmninting. Good for prairie dogs.

Kentucky_Rifleman
March 14, 2010, 02:25 PM
Ah, necrothreadia!

Mea culpa! :)

KR

WYcoyote
March 15, 2010, 11:42 PM
The $325 was probably a fair price 6 years ago when this thread was started.
I paid $175 for my bicentenial M77 7mm Rem Mag in 1976 NIB. Looked in 6 boxes of them to pick out the wood I liked the best. Not a true 'tack' driver but a reliable 1 1/2" at 100yds. Trigger adjusted to 2 3/4#. It's taken 20 elk and probably 40 deer.

22 Caliber
March 26, 2010, 11:41 AM
Guys...I have owed 5 in the M77 class. I currently still have 3. One in .243 one in 22-250 and 22lr. They are all tack drivers with factory ammo. I do like the silver tips as my choice, but shoot the cheaper with playing. The 22lr will put 10 round inside of a nickle at 50 yards. The .243 will shoot 5 shot groups around a quarter size all day at 150 yards,
. Now the 22-250 is just all around mean. 100 yards for fun with factory loads you can touch all hole together. At 300 you can still flip ground hogs like they were at 50 yards.....I love the M77 and have never owed a bad one.

Still Shooting
March 27, 2010, 02:36 PM
I'm another long-time hunter and shooter who has little bad to say about the Ruger M77 series rifles. My first was an "impulse buy" - I walked into a gun shop 25 years ago looking for a set of reloading dies, and the guy had a Ruger M77 Mk I on the rack. I noticed that the tag on the gun had ".257 Roberts" written on it, and asked about it. The owner had taken a $50 deposit on the gun almost a year earlier, and the guy never came back. We started talking, and a little later I walked out with the new Ruger, a Leupold 3-9X Gold Ring scope, a sling, and a set of dies for $550.

Initially the gun wouldn't shoot worth squat; the first was right on, and the successive shots were all ove the paper. I eventually discovered thet the forend wood had taken a "set," and was bearing on the barrel about 2/3 of the way to the tip, in the 8 o'clock position. I relieved the contact area, and the gun got truly sweet. With handloads, it will consistently shoot 1/4 moa.

I went on to buy a Mk II in .270, and then a 77/22 in .22 Hornet. Both good guns, both a solid 1/2 moa. with factory ammo. I recently married, and my wife asked for a deer rifle for her birthday. I obliged with an M77 Mk II ultralight (now "Hawkeye") in .243, and she loves the gun. It also does an easy 1/2 moa. with factory loads.

Are the triggers different? Yes, they are. The average pull weight from factory came in at the following weights: 6lb-3oz, 7lb-6oz, 6lb-4oz, and 6lb-10oz. The 7 lb. pull is on the .243, but it only has about 50 rounds through it. It may "lighten up" with a little more use. None of the triggers shows "creep," all break cleanly, and only the .270 shows overtravel after it breaks.

What else do I like about the Rugers? -I like that they're made in the USA!

Everyone's entitled to his/her own opinion, but I really like the Rugers. Lately my wife has been lusting after my .270, so I offered it to her. That way, I get to replace it! -Hmmm...

jeepmor
May 18, 2010, 12:58 AM
I found my Ruger hunting rifle trigger quite easy tune with some careful jewel filing, dremel buffing with flitz and a felt pad, and many, many assembly/teardown cycles to get it where I liked it.

Also, I'll throw this out there and say that I take nearly all my guns, used or not, and perform a barrel cleaning and then a jag and double patch coated with something like flitz or bore scrubber. I've noticed it really reduces the copper fouling rate dramatically. However, you gotta call it good enough hen doing this, it will always produce a dirty rag if you scrub enough, it simply won't produce clean rags if you keep scrubbing it with grit and removing metal.

One of my Ruger's is the same as SHvar's, and a great shooter. This is one of the guns I did this scrub on, what a dream to clean...when I get around to it. I just sent a hundred-ish rounds down the tube sage rat hunting in Crane, Oregon recently and she picked off the close one and long ones every time.

jeepmor

SwampWolf
May 28, 2010, 07:24 PM
I've got four of them (two earlier, tang safety models and two of the later MKII models) and all are plenty accurate-though none are regular sub-moa. Also, none have triggers to brag about but that short-coming is not unique to Ruger and can be rectified with judicious tuning or installing an after-market trigger. The Ruger 77 is my favorite bolt-action rifle.

Grey Morel
May 28, 2010, 08:52 PM
I've only owned one MKII: it was a MKII all weather in .223.

It shot about MOA: a little better or worse depending on ammo: about 1.1" with Wolf polyformance, about 1" with Winchester White Box, and about .9" with top shelf stuff. Good performance for a factory rifle IMO.

I got rid of it, because it only had a 1-12 twist, and I wanted to be able to shoot heavier bullets. I see that Ruger now makes the 223 versions with 1-9 twists. If that had been the case back then, I never would have sold it.

Kentucky_Rifleman
May 28, 2010, 09:33 PM
Since this has been resurrected (again and after a much briefer hiatus) :)

I got my M77 7x57 out to the range and back several times since I last posted. I got lucky. The rifle shoots like a jewel, consistently holding MOA or a little tighter.

The trigger is satisfactory, but I like my 721/722 triggers better. I've been tinkering with the idea of putting in an aftermarket trigger since this has become my default field gun.

I have a nice selection of other rifles, several of which I've had and been shooting for years, but the 7x57 is such a pleasant cartridge in the M77, fast, lethal, and positively pleasant to shoot.

I'll post some pics this weekend.

KR

Still Shooting
August 21, 2010, 08:30 AM
SInce my last post, I have been playing with triggers. I decided to install a Timney adjustable on my Mk II .270, and it is sweet! Since I use the rifle primarily for hunting, I decided to go with a 3 lb. 4 oz. pull - up here in the North Country, gloves are often in order by late in the deer season. I am sticking with my favorite handloads, 150 gr. Nosler Partition pushed with 53.0 gr. of IMR 4350. With a cool barrel, both my wife and I often have 3 overlapping holes on a 5-shot group at 100 yds. She absolutely loved the trigger, so for her birthday in June, I put another Timney in her Mk II .243 lightweight. I loaded some 100gr. Hornady Interlocks for her, and the first group she printed was sub-1" at 100 yds. She also loves the trigger - almost NO take-up, breaks like glass, and no overtravel!

I then decided to try the Timney for my tang safety M77 in .257 Roberts - my favorite for deer, and also has done an antelope and a muley in MT. That has been another story - the fitting is nasty, and a fair amount of wood had to be taken out of the stock in order to fit the Timney parts. I'm still trying to get the bolt stop for the safety to function correctly. If I had it to do over again, I probably would stick with the Ruger action parts and just do a cleanup. I mainly didn't like the (long) overtravel on the factory trigger, and the adjustment didn't seem to yield a repeatable pull weight - up to 6 oz. variation from shot-to-shot when set where I like it. I plan to keep on working the Timney solution, as the gun is 1/4 moa with 115 gr. Nosler Partitions...

rangerruck
August 21, 2010, 01:43 PM
If you trigger is anything like this; then this job will improve it immensely.
http://www.centerfirecentral.com/images/trigger.gif
http://www.centerfirecentral.com/77trigger.html

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