Easy question


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Ex
May 7, 2011, 08:19 PM
Should I de-prime my cases before tumbling?

Many thanks in advance!

Ex

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jcwit
May 7, 2011, 08:31 PM
Its entirely up to you, some do some don't. Myself, I do, also I size before tumbling as tumbling takes the sizing marks off. No!, I'm not speaking of scratching just the marking from the die. I like my brass shiney, but thats just me.

shooter_from_show-me
May 7, 2011, 08:39 PM
You could but it's not anymore benificial if you do, your primer pockets won't get any cleaner using a vibratory tumbler. Plus you have the chance of plugging up your flash holes with media too unless your using strickly crushed walnut for you media.

gamestalker
May 7, 2011, 08:40 PM
I like to tumble a little before sizing to knck off an grit that might scratch the case. I then resize, trim, ream & chamfer, and then tumble until ice and pretty.

Ex
May 7, 2011, 09:01 PM
WoW! Love this site!

Great answers guys...just went out to setup tumbler and fill (with crushed walnut only) (btw, coarse or fine recommended? I bought fine) and already answers!

What's consensus, coarse or fine?

Hope I can give back what I've already gotten!

Damon555
May 7, 2011, 09:03 PM
No....digging media out of primer pockets is no fun.

Ex
May 7, 2011, 09:12 PM
Thanks! And nice group with the Kimber! I shoot best with either my G29 or my little Ruger Single Six WMR. Both will knock the socks off my G22.

Wolfman Bill
May 7, 2011, 09:13 PM
Evening EX

Try it both ways, you’ll figure out which way YOU like best. Personally for me I use a mixture of coarse and fine tumbling media so on straight wall pistol cases I leave the primers in but on small neck rifle like 223 or 22-250 I de-prime first so I can use compressed air to blow the media out of the inside of the cases through the primer hole. Otherwise it’s a real pain to get the coarse media out of that small neck cases.

Walkalong
May 7, 2011, 09:14 PM
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=6362785&postcount=4

I have the 14/20 and it gets stuck in some of the flash holes. The 20/40 should fall right through.

I do most of my tumbling prior to sizing with the spent primers still in, but not all of it. Mixing grits or mixing walnut and corncob is a waste of time IMHO. Lots of folks like doing it though.

Ex
May 7, 2011, 09:32 PM
Bag of my 9mm has been in tumbler now for about 25 mins.

Outsides are bright and all traces of carbon are gone. Insides are still a little funky. Turned it back on and check again in about 20 mins.

I've read that about an hour is usually appropriate.

This Dillon 550 I bought came from a friend in NM. Have just a couple pieces I think I need. Tues night at the local range, a bunch of guys from Dillon meet.
I'll be up there with the press and a parts list for them to circle what I need.

Is that cheating? :)

Bmac1949
May 7, 2011, 09:33 PM
if I tumble before sizing I just leave the brass in long enough to get the grit off of it so that the dies don't get scratched and after sizing and trimming I leave them in the tumbler long enough to get the lube off and polish them up real nice. I'm only reloading 50 to 100 cases at a time so cleaning out the flash holes is not that big a deal.

Ex
May 7, 2011, 09:37 PM
This press came with no papers. It has Dillon 550 forged into the side. Anyone know the dif between 550 and 550B if any?

I've downloaded the current 550B stuff from Dillon, but am so green to this that I'm still not sure what all I'm looking at.

Sediment
May 7, 2011, 09:54 PM
I tend to tumble before depriming and again after sizing to help clean some of the extra lube off as well as the primer pockets. Keeps gunk from getting into the dies and prevents unwanted scratches and dings in the cases.

Once the cases are nice and shiny I'll take them the rest of the way from primed to seated.

Ex
May 7, 2011, 09:59 PM
Great info in such a short time...This may become my only forum!!!

Thanks so much to all!

Snowbandit
May 7, 2011, 10:00 PM
No, the dirt on your cases will do more damage to the sizing die than the clean primer pockets are worth.

Hondo 60
May 7, 2011, 10:17 PM
For rifle, I tumble, deprime/resize, trim, chamfer & tumble again, prime, charge, etc, etc

For pistola/revólver, I tumble just once, size, prime, charge, etc, etc.

cfullgraf
May 7, 2011, 10:22 PM
I tumble before resizing to clean off range grime, then after to finis cleaning and polishing.

I have a piece of stiff wire to clean out the flash holes. Takes no time at all. Also, it gives me another quick inspection of the brass. I find failed cases at times during the flash hole cleaning process. Smaller media helps minimize/eliminate flash hole plugging.

ranger335v
May 7, 2011, 10:25 PM
"Should I de-prime my cases before tumbling?"

You should do what the rest of us do; the way we wish. Either way, it ain't gonna blow anything up.

Ex
May 8, 2011, 01:45 AM
Truly, a veritable wealth of experience here and I thank all of you
for your input.

Been tumbling different rounds all night (and bagging into correct calibers).

Tuesday off to the range to meet with the Dillon folks.

I'll start a new thread to report on what I learn there

Thank you all!

Ex

:)

ironhead7544
May 8, 2011, 01:49 AM
Tumble first for pistol. Size first for rifle. I hate wiping case lube. Check each primer hole for media when sizing first.

DANNY-L
May 8, 2011, 07:15 AM
I do if the brass is clean but if it's dirty I'll use a decapping die then put it in the vibrator for about an hour,then I resize and finish with the vibrator until polished clean.

snuffy
May 8, 2011, 09:45 AM
Ex
Member


Join Date: January 15, 2011
Location: AZ
Posts: 18

Bag of my 9mm has been in tumbler now for about 25 mins.

Outsides are bright and all traces of carbon are gone. Insides are still a little funky. Turned it back on and check again in about 20 mins.

I've read that about an hour is usually appropriate.

This Dillon 550 I bought came from a friend in NM. Have just a couple pieces I think I need. Tues night at the local range, a bunch of guys from Dillon meet.
I'll be up there with the press and a parts list for them to circle what I need.

Is that cheating?

Yes that's cheating!:D I have to order from Brian Enos, then wait 5 days for the mules to deliver dillon stuff.

As for the time involved, that depends on how tarnished the brass is. I always tumble before sizing, never tumble after sizing, but I sometimes tumble after loading to remove sizing lube. That's only when loading rifle on my 650 that goes through the complete cycle, from case feeder to finished bin.

Getting the range grit off the cases is the main reason to tumble. Other reasons are case inspection, it's easier to see defects. The shine is another reason, some say it makes the cases slicker, so feeding is more positive.

As far as primer pocket cleaning, I don't bother on most loading. I may do it for long range match rifle or loading for hunting. Never for auto pistol.

bds
May 8, 2011, 09:56 AM
Not sure if anyone mentioned this.

I use NuFinish polish with my walnut media (I prefer fine grit 20-24/40 over coarse 12-14/20) before I deprime/resize. The media works better/faster with polish. For my Lee carbide pistol dies, I resize them without lube and the residual polish on case surface makes it easier to resize. Tossing in cut up used dryer sheets help collect black fouling and extend the life of media.

For rifle, I use a Universal decapping die to remove the primers (without resizing) and I remove the military crimp (if any) and clean the primer pockets before tumbling in walnut with polish.

jcwit
May 8, 2011, 02:34 PM
No, the dirt on your cases will do more damage to the sizing die than the clean primer pockets are worth.

If we are talking about handgun brass and using carbide dies dirt is not going to harm them unless you're dropping the cases in diamond dust. Still "clean" hurts nothing.

Ex
February 12, 2012, 09:34 PM
Update, and many thanks to all those that posted!!!!

Have now done a BUNCH of 9mm (started with that because it was recommend by the folks at Dillon to be a relatively safe load to start with) and shot a bunch of it. Light loads, hot loads and everything in between.

Even though all my dies for the 550b are carbide (not needing lube) and all are pistola loads, I am using just a "smidge" of Mothers mag wheel polish in the crushed walnut media. Really brightens them up in a short time. Using the equivalent of 1/4 of a pat of butter, tumbled without cases for 10 mins to mix. Very good results so far.

Have now purchased bullets and primers for .40 and 10mm, but haven't done any loads yet because of lack of time. .40 will be next.

Am using Hogdons "TiteGroup" powder for the 9mm but have read that due to the speed of this powder, it can have pressure spikes in the larger calibers/hotter loads.

Any consensus on a good clean powder for the .40/10mm? TiteGroup OK? Something else recommended?

Thanks as always guys! This site has the best, most experienced group I've found... wish I had more time to participate!

Ex

rcmodel
February 12, 2012, 09:42 PM
Any consensus on a good clean powder for the .40/MM? TiteGroup OK?IMO: Titegroup is not a good powder choice for ANY high pressure caliber if you want the performance they are designed for.

That includes all the Magnum revolver calibers, as well as the 9mm, .40 S&W, and 10 MM pistol calibers. All operate at 35,000 PSI or more.

All are at their best performance, and safer with medium to slow burning powders.

Get out your reloading manual and compare max velocity in those calibers and see what powders you see.

You will not see Titegroup I betcha.
No, I GayRonTeeYa you won't see Titegroup!

rc

Walkalong
February 13, 2012, 07:20 AM
Yep, try Unique, W-231, Universal, Silhouette, HS-6, True Blue, AA #5, N340 or something in that range.

Ex
February 21, 2012, 11:42 PM
Again and again, you guys have the best info of all the forums I visit!

Will look into med speed powders when I get ready to do the .40s and 10mm's.

As always, will repost here and share whatever data I get!

Ex

ArchAngelCD
February 22, 2012, 12:05 AM
I always tumble brass before depriming.

The inside of your brass will not be clean in a tumbler.

As for how long to tumble, I have found once fired brass cleans up fairly quickly and each time you fire it, tumbling time gets a little longer.

From my experience Longshot is a very good powder for use in the 40 S&W and 10mm. HS-6 is also a very good choice. I also like those powders in the 9mm but also use W231 for 9mm ammo.

GLOOB
February 22, 2012, 04:35 AM
No.

If you deprime before sizing, you risk mixing in an unsized case with your sized cases. If you aren't paying attention, this can result in poor neck tension, setback, and a kb.

Ex
April 10, 2012, 01:13 AM
Follow up:

I've now made/shot a pile of .40s with Unique. Made them mostly on the light side as I'm a smidge uncomfortable with the fullness of the case on a max recipe load.

Is this common with many powders that the bullet seats right down to the powder, perhaps even compressing it a bit?

Have a bunch! of .40s made now that I will be chroning this weekend. And some 10mms.

The .40s are all with Unique and are loaded with both 165 gn JHPs and 180 gn JHPs, bullets are all from Roze. Have shot many of them in the 180, but not with chrono. Can't wait!

Cheers!

Hogpauls
April 10, 2012, 03:37 PM
I deprime before tumbling. Actually after I deprime I usually soak my brass in dawn, OMS and Lemishine with hot water for a 1/2 hour. After that I rinse and take the air compressor and blow out the remaining water and most of the gunk in the primer pockets are blown out as well. It does become a PIA to dig out the stuck media but usually it's not stuck in alot of cases.

VaGunNut
April 13, 2012, 07:26 PM
Simple anwser for simple question. NO..... Tumble before deprime then after sizing use sonic cleaner for about half an hour. let soak overnight if you wish; then run the cycle 1 more time. Shiny and factory clean!

1SOW
April 13, 2012, 11:39 PM
For Pistol, Yes I deprime first.

The depriming is the "dirtiest" part of reloading. I deprime and size on a little press on my patio. I then tumble and reload.
I was doing it this way and then had depriming press problems and stopped for several months. I recently picked up a small LEE Reloader Press and it's working well for sizing and depriming. (I deprimed over 1K 9mm rds today)

My reloading press and my media stay clean "much" longer depriming first.

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