[0to60]

This is never something I would have tried until I saw this video on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEBrkF0sMgI

At the end, he suggests you put all the parts in a bucket with solvent, let it sit for a while, rinse with hot water, dry and reassemble.

I've always cleaned guns with solvent and then used an air compressor to blow the solvent off the gun and out of the internal parts that you can't get to. Then I'd oil. But recently, I've started rinsing the solvent away with hot water first, then blowing with the air compressor, and then oiling.

Does anyone else use water? If not water or air, how do you clean the solvent out of the gun before oiling and reassembling? Or, describe your process if you have something even more effective.

[mxl]

When I was in the army in 1962 I used hot shower water [with soap, toothbrush and a few patches] to clean my M-1 Garand. If I had been caught the 1st sergeant would probably put me on KP forever. I could do in a couple of minutes what took guys using patches an hour and I would do a better job. The trick was to use VERY hot water so it would dry properly, then apply some oil. The inspector could run a patch down my barrel and it would come out clean. I don't do this on my own guns for fear not all the water will evaporate.

[LawofThirds]

I've heard (and taken it with a grain of salt) that S&W suggests putting their stainless revolvers in a dishwasher on the pots & pans setting with the side plate off in order to clean during their armorer's course. The heat in there would certainly be enough to evaporate quickly if you pulled it out right after the cycle.

Still, water makes me uneasy.

[WardenWolf]

I don't, because I no longer shoot corrosive ammo except in the Mosin Nagant, and that gets boresnaked. That's the only thing I've heard of using hot water for. I don't like the idea of water messing up the wood or getting between it and the action and rusting it.

Regarding corrosive ammo:

It didn't take me long to figure out that shooting corrosive ammo out of a semi-auto rifle was NOT worth it, as the gas system gets filthy and requires you to thoroughly clean it to avoid rusting. You use so much solvent and patches that you wind up spending more money on cleaning supplies than the price difference between that and Wolf or Silver Bear. And you spend more time cleaning than you do shooting. It's a false savings in anything but a bolt-action rifle.

[M2 Carbine]

I only clean the guns in water after shooting Black Powder and corrosive ammo.

[4thPointOfContact]

In the 80's, I often used hot water to clean my M16. Of course they had Industrial Strength hot water in the barracks; you could make instant coffee with it right from the tap.

[GRIZ22]

I've heard (and taken it with a grain of salt) that S&W suggests putting their stainless revolvers in a dishwasher on the pots & pans setting with the side plate off in order to clean during their armorer's course.

It must have been a different S&W Armorer's Course tahn I went to as I never heard this there. I have heard of people doing this but have never known anyone to do this. You would also have to contend with the lead contamination in your dishwasher if you did this on a regular basis.

Of course they had Industrial Strength hot water in the barracks;

Yes usually at 211 degrees fahrenheit!

I have seen rifles cleaned in very hot water in the Army. The water usually evaporates bedore it gets a chance to start any corrosion. I can't see how this does any better than a solvent but I have seen it done.

[451 Detonics]

You use so much solvent and patches that you wind up spending more money on cleaning supplies than the price difference between that and Wolf or Silver Bear.

I never noticed it took much more in cleaning, just a change ion solvent. When I am cleaning after corrosive ammo I simply use a black powder solvent. Cleans quickly and easily.

[forgetitohio]

My girlfriend cleans her $4000 race gun with soap and water. I cringed every time she did it.
But I found out that all the parts are coated with Armoloy; she doesn't even use oil.
She shoots JSWC so no lead in the bbl. uses a dishwasher brush to clean it.
After finding that out I had my race gun coated with Armoly but I still clean it the old way.
She's never had any shooting problems from washing her gun. If I could only get her to wash my socks....

Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.
John Wayne

[AirForceShooter]

Basic and Advanced. Showers with a gun. Got the guns pristine in no time flat.
Still use hot water at times.

My wife would kill me if she found my S&W in the dishwasher so I don't have the nerve to try it.

AFS

[JCallaway82]

I look at the residue that can build up on the shower glass and decided against it. Maybe if it was ultra purified....

[crafter32034]

Only with my flintlocks. Boiling water, air dry, lubricate

[PabloJ]

This is never something I would have tried until I saw this video on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEBrkF0sMgI

At the end, he suggests you put all the parts in a bucket with solvent, let it sit for a while, rinse with hot water, dry and reassemble.

I've always cleaned guns with solvent and then used an air compressor to blow the solvent off the gun and out of the internal parts that you can't get to. Then I'd oil. But recently, I've started rinsing the solvent away with hot water first, then blowing with the air compressor, and then oiling.

Does anyone else use water? If not water or air, how do you clean the solvent out of the gun before oiling and reassembling? Or, describe your process if you have something even more effective.
Only after using copper solvent containing ammonia (Sweets 7.62, Barnes,....). I rinse bore with hot water wipe it dry and apply oil or special grease (if gun is going to be stored for extended period of time).

[Shadow 7D]

depends on what you are shooting and how you are cleaning.

[Ohio Gun Guy]

I do, once in a while. Very hot water & Dawn dish detergent. Dollar store tooth brushes work well too.

Then dry and oil well. I dont do this all the time, only for corrosive ammo or after a lot of rounds.

[jimmyraythomason]

I always wash parts on a total teardown and clean in hot/soapy water and rinse with clean hot water. A quick blow out with compressed air and spray with WD-40 while the parts are still hot. A few drops of Rem-Oil before re-assembly and their done.

[0to60]

So, those of you who don't rinse with hot water OR blow solvent out with compressed air, how do you get all the solvent out of the gun?

With a 1911 its not too big a deal, because it can easily be field stripped all the way down. But most modern autos only break down into a frame, slide, barrel and spring/rod. How do you get all the solvent out of the slide, firing pin/striker channel, down in the grip, etc...?

[The Lone Haranguer]

I used hot soapy water (the traditional cleaning method) on a cap-and-ball revolver. That was the first, last and only time. I've heard of people cleaning Glocks in their dishwasher. :D This isn't as farfetched as it sounds.

[stevelyn]

Depends on the gun.

Glocks, EBRs and blackpowder guns get cleaned with hot, soapy water. Make sure they get rinsed in hot water to bring the metal temperature up so it dries faster. I use canned air to blow out places I can't reach with a rag and re-oil.

[rogertc1]

When i used to shoot black powder i did.

[auburnhunter]

It is a well known fact in the Army that you cannot clean a rifle properly and have it pass inspection. You can spend 8 hours on it running patches down the barrel, Q-tips, pipe cleaners, etc. Put a light coat of oil on it, put it in the rack, wait a couple of hours, and VIOLA! it now turns a patch black when you check it. What was the solution you ask? Well if the Army doesn't want their rifles oiled that is what they get. We cleaned them in the shower with SUPER hot water and some sort of cleaner that was in there. When you took them out of the water they were so hot that the water evaporated after about 20 seconds and a couple of shakes. No oil applied afterward. Quickly turn them in to the armory and let them wonder why they rusted. Its sad, I know, but what can you do when you are dealing with ignorant people. Sadly, I am now an officer and do not feel the need to "fight the establishment" to fix the problem. Just ready to get out.

[ultradoc]

I never did the water thing when I was in the army [1980's] but new a couple of guys that did. I allways thought water+metal=rust.

[JTQ]

I don't.

Isn't the old saying, "Water and wood, no good. Water and steel, bad deal."?

I also don't use degreasers. I use CLP type products.

The only reason can see to take all the lube off a gun is to get something to stick to the gun, like a new finish or sight paint, etc.

[jimmyraythomason]

I allways thought water+metal=rust. Many people do. For those people and to anyone interested,I'm reposting the process used for hot bath bluing/rebluing. After disassembly(or before assembly),all parts to be blued are degreased and stripped of old bluing. For high polish,all pits are removed by sanding/polishing,etc. Parts for a Matte finish are glassbeaded. Now comes the good part,all parts to be blued are immersed in HOT soapy water,from there to HOT clear water,from there to the bluing salt solution(salts dissolved in 4 gallons of WATER),from there to stop bath(solution in 4 gallons of WATER),from there to BOILING HOT clear water,from there,while the metal is still hot into an oil bath (I use WD-40 but ANY oil will do. Hot water and soap is the best method for removing dirt,grit,grease,powder residue,etc from firearms regardless of the material they are made from. HINT;always remove the firearm from the stock before cleaning. When I do a major teardown and clean,all parts are immersed in very hot water,even the barrel and action.

[rocky branch]

I regularly clean my BP revolvers in my kitchen sink.
I use water and soap in BP and barrels I fire corrosive ammo in.
Takes minutes and I have done it 50+ years.

[swordsmn]

I use an L&R ultrasonic cleaner occasionally (Use their cleaning soln & sometimes simple green)


http://www.lrultrasonics.com/industries/weapons/weapon/hcs200.html


Their process recommends a few minutes in the cleaner
Hot water rinse
Blow off with compressed air
then a few more mins in ultrasonic lubricant pan that is separately placed above the main cleaning solution just touching so waves ~ penetrate.
This few mins with their liquid lubricant has inhibited rust in my glocks/sig internals.
I still lube with Tw25 or CLP where appropriate but that lube bath lets mefeel better about the hot water.

I do recommend their system but I will admit :

I still have to scrub bores but if I do it before ultrasonic it gets them
ready for a few lube/dry patches ONLY after the wash/lube cycles)

I still have to do work on face of revolver cylinders
(I brush them with a serious solvent, rinse henm straight into ultrasonic cleaning)

I still have to brush breechfaces
If I do that with solvent pre-treat, whatevers left wipes off later with a patch


but it cuts the time required to do all of those & has never caused me issues
with Sigs (even alloy frame 220)
Glocks
Smith & W revolvers & a 1911
Does great with my MAK90 bolt/carrier
My ps90 innards
etc

[Don357]

I use hot water to rinse the solvent out of all of my guns, especially my pistols. I really dislike disassembling the trigger groups unless I absolutely have to, and HOT running water flushes out all of the solvent, oil, and other residue that you can't get out otherwise. I've never had any rust problems either. We used to use submersion heaters and garbage cans to heat water to clean our M-16's just after field exercises and before annual IG inspections, when I was in the Army. Just saturate with RBC, scrub with a toothbrush and swish in the can to rinse.

[RugerMcMarlin]

Way back when I was in the Air Nat'l Guard we used the Hot water/Air compresser method. After annual qualifications we had about 70 M16A1s and A2s to clean, and 4 of us doing it. The trick is smoking hot water, I know I know weekend warriors, the point is it's fast, its sure, it works. We also oiled them with the stuff in the green pint flasks, can't remember the name of it but was govt issue. White thin oil, good stuff wish I had some more of it. The Sargent in charge was a Nam Vet jar head that knew his @#$, if we did what he told us it always worked.

[millertyme]

I do it, but I make sure to remove as much as I can, make sure the water is as hot as water can get, let the metal parts in the water long enough from them to get thoroughly hot, then used compressed air to blow everything out. I only do it with my pistols. I wash them thoroughly with dish soap and hot water using a toothbrush then rinse them in the hottest tap water I can get them pour boiling water all over them. I like it because it doesn't stink up me or my clothes with solvent and I make sure to do it with timeliness to make sure nothing rusts. It's worked great so far. I started doing it with a stainless Vaquero and a stainless P95 but seeing the results led me to do it on my CZ75, my P11, and my Buckmark. Filed strip, remove the grips, and get into it.

[GLOOB]

With a 1911 its not too big a deal, because it can easily be field stripped all the way down. But most modern autos only break down into a frame, slide, barrel and spring/rod. How do you get all the solvent out of the slide, firing pin/striker channel, down in the grip, etc...?

I don't put solvent on the gun, at all. I used to use it on the bore, only. That's easy enough to wipe away with a patch or two. Now I only use gun oil and mechanical cleaning. Chore Boys/bronze wool and a drop of oil takes care of fouling of bore/chambers/cylinders. Nylon brush and Q tips/patches takes care of the rest.

Striker channel gets cleaned with a custom jag and patch just dampened with oil. Then cleaned out with a dry patch.

[Tim the student]

In the 80's, I often used hot water to clean my M16. Of course they had Industrial Strength hot water in the barracks; you could make instant coffee with it right from the tap.

Those barracks were on Ardennes, weren't they? From your screen name, I bet they were.

I've done the same thing (maybe in the same barracks for that matter), but only right before certain inspection types. It wasn't an everyday occurrence, but right before we had to assume DRF1. The inspectors were a bit crazy, which made BN commanders a bit crazy, which made CO commanders even crazier, which just continued to roll downhill until joe got stuck waaaaay over cleaning rifles. Good times.

The water has to be painfully hot though, so it will heat up the metal enough that it all evaporates in a few seconds. (ETA: yeah, the water is amazingly hot - I literally used to make ramen noodles with it right from the tap.)

It is not a practice I continue today.

[One-Time]

unless its a gun I shot corrosive ammo through it never see water unless it rains

[dagger dog]

Have done it for years ,especially when doing a detail strip inspection-cleaning on any guns that are new to me, even the ones that have never been shot!

[Cosmoline]

Only with my flintlocks. Boiling water, air dry, lubricate


Ditto. With modern firearms the real problems are usually not going to be fixed by hot water. Copper fouling is unaffected for example. And the big problem isn't black powder soot.

[Trebor]

I use hot tap water as part of the process when cleaning handguns. I'll spray some solvent in a part (say the barrel), let it sit a minute while I work on another part, and then scrub with a toothbrush while running the part under hot water.

If the water is hot enough it will evaporate away. I make sure all the parts are perfectly dry and then relube before reassambly. This way I strip out all the old lube and built up crud.

[Kiln]

Not me, thats like inviting the enemy in for supper. I'm extremely protective of my weapons and that means keeping all moisture and humidity out of them the best I can.

[kingcheese]

just something to think about, when you wash your hands after cleaning a gun you are suppose to wash with cold soapy water, and then with warm soapy water, the hot water makes it easier for your body to absorb small amounts of lead, if thats a problem just washing your hands, id hate to see what it does when you clean the whole gun that way

non the less, i have seen a muzzle loader cleaned in a bath tub, and it did get very clean

[makarovnik]

I only do it if I'm shooting corrosive ammo or if I'm painting the gun and need to strip it. Otherwise, no.

[asahrts]

[QUOTE=forgetitohio;7311146]My girlfriend cleans her $4000 race gun ....



damn! his girlfriend has a $4000 race gun! lucky guy :D

[RugerMcMarlin]

I think the practice started with the black soot problems on the 16s and ball powder, Id like to know why, and one of yous got to be a chemical engineer, water is considered effective with black powder and not smokeless. I thought they both had a nitrite base.

[Gord]

Disclaimer: I don't clean my guns that often.

When I do, I'll detail strip the weapon and soak all the small parts (to include pretty much everything on a handgun except the grips) in a tray of Simple Green, Purple Power, etc. to de-gunk for a while, wipe clean, and then run under water - as hot as I can get it from the tap - to rinse. I'll then set them on a dishtowel to dry, wipe thoroughly with a dry cloth or paper towel, and if necessary, take a blowdryer or air compressor to any nooks and crannies that I can't otherwise get into. Reassemble, lube as required, store.

Never had any aesthetic or functional issues, and as a few people above have noted, this does a great job of flushing out trigger groups or other assemblies that need cleaning, but can't (or are a royal PITA to) be broken down.

[GLOOB]

Sounds like hot water is good for an occasional detail cleaning, but not usually necessary for routine care.

[JustinJ]

What kind of solvent's are ya'll using that you need to rinse them out with water? Most will evaporate off quickly. Ecspecially those sold for gun cleaning.

[jimmyraythomason]

Most will evaporate off quickly. Ecspecially those sold for gun cleaning. Rinsing with hot water flushes out the crud that the solvents only loosen.

[Creature]

I allways thought water+metal=rust

More correctly: water + metal + long time = rust

Conversly; HOT water + metal + no time + wipe down = no rust

[JustinJ]

"Quote:
Most will evaporate off quickly. Ecspecially those sold for gun cleaning.

Rinsing with hot water flushes out the crud that the solvents only loosen."

I use the solvent to rinse out what it dissolves which is all the easier when in a pressurized can. When i clean after corrosive ammo use with water or a water based cleaner i usually follow it up with a spray solvent to rinse out the water and dissolved minerals. I then follow up with an oil based hyrophobic product like CLP or Remoil, which is a must to be sure all water is displaced. And i make sure it gets in all the little nooks and crannies so as to avoid rust.

[jimmyraythomason]

use the solvent to rinse out what it dissolves which is all the easier when in a pressurized can.Brake cleaner does the same much cheaper. I then follow up with an oil based hyrophobic product like CLP or Remoil, which is a must to be sure all water is displaced.I use WD-40 for this. For a complete detailed strip and clean you just can't beat hot ,soapy water(but you CAN pay a LOT more for it).

[Milkmaster]

I only clean the guns in water after shooting Black Powder and corrosive ammo.

Me too! Was what I was taught and it always seemed to work fine. My BP guns are pristine.

What is all the worry about water? Doesn't anyone get caught out hunting in the rain? I bet lots of military firearms have seen their dose of water from rain to submersion. I think the point of any tool or gun care is that it be cleaned and oiled afterwards. Guns are usualkly made out of some pretty good metal. If yours isn't, you should buy a different gun anyway. :)

Shoot it lots....clean it....oil it....thank the Lord....kiss your wife...do it again.

[jimmyraythomason]

Shoot it lots....clean it....oil it....thank the Lord....kiss your wife...do it again.
I like it!

[JustinJ]

Jimmyray, be careful with break cleaner on plastics and some other finishes. For guns with polymer i'll only use the Birchwood Polymer safe cleaner. Hard lesson learned.

[jimmyraythomason]

Jimmyray, be careful with break cleaner on plastics and some other finishes. For guns with polymer i'll only use the Birchwood Polymer safe cleaner. Hard lesson learnedI don't own or want any polymer guns. I use BRAKE cleaner both at home and work and have for several decades. Hot soapy water wont damage any material even properly finished wood stocks.

[Gord]

What kind of solvent's are ya'll using that you need to rinse them out with water? Most will evaporate off quickly. Ecspecially those sold for gun cleaning.

You mean the ones that are repackaged with a picture of a gun on the can and sold for five times the price? Yeah, I tend to avoid those. ;)

Unless you need to get lead or copper fouling out of your bore, everything else is pretty much just caked-on ick same as any other - the whole gamut of gun-centric solvents, degreasers, cleaning agents, rust preventatives and lubes sure is a heck of a way to make a buck for the manufacturers though.

Why so many people are so absolutely terrified of getting water on their guns remains a mystery to me. You guys know that you sweat when you carry, right? And that there's usually some level of humidity in the air? And that there are countless people out there every day hunting, training and fighting in inclement weather with guns that don't magically transform into rustbuckets by sundown?

[armsmaster270]

I only use Break Free CLP on my weapons. Do an initial cleaning leave a light film in the bore then a couple days later do the bore again with fresh wire brush and more CLP dry bore with patch.

[parisite]

No water I just give 'em a bath in diesel.:eek::)

[Don357]

"I use WD-40 for this." by JIMMYRAYTHOMASON

Jimmyray, you should never use WD40 on the internal mechanisims of a firearm. It leaves a sticky film that attracts and holds on to dirt and powder residue, especially in trigger groups and firing pin channels, that unless cleaned relativly soon will harden and be next to impossible to get out. I have had customers bring their hunting rifles and shotguns to me because they would mis-fire, and after breaking them down, I would discover hardened crud built up in the bolt, and other places. But after a through cleaning with Hoppes #9 and hot water, they work fine. When asked, the customer said they used WD40 in the gun for lube. I use Hoppes oil or Rem oil. Wiping down the outside to prevent rust is fine, just keep the WD40 on the outside of a gun.

[jimmyraythomason]

Jimmyray, you should never use WD40 on the internal mechanisims of a firearm. It leaves a sticky film that attracts and holds on to dirt and powder residue, especially in trigger groups and firing pin channels, that unless cleaned relativly soon will harden and be next to impossible to get outThank you for your concern Don357 but 40 plus years of practicing this has proven that to be wrong. I have used WD-40 on all of my firearms from the most simple mechanisms to the most complex mechanisms without ANY bad experiences. This is a battle that I am tired of fighting so use what you like and I will also.

[oldfool]

when it's all said and done, most anything that takes "dirt" off will get it done, provided you use a little (a little dab will do ya) lube after cleaning
and that includes water and or WD40 and/or....
it's a lot less about what you use to clean than it is about what you clean, and good common sense cleaning techniques

jimmyray is right
(but he pays attention to what and how he cleans)
blackpowder shooters been using water since black powder was invented, and it doesn't hurt a thing unless you are doing it wrong

but me.. lazy.. I have been spoiled by aerosol CLP, won't deny it
(mama raised a fool, not an idiot child, never argue with them 'bama lads, especially not "ex" gunsmiths)

[Guillermo]

I keep water away from my guns

brake cleaner to strip

air compressor blows away the stuff that is loosened. Q tip or plastic end of a letter opener for hard to reach corners and such.

Water is bad

Solvent is good

[JustinJ]

"I don't own or want any polymer guns. I use BRAKE cleaner both at home and work and have for several decades. Hot soapy water wont damage any material even properly finished wood stocks. "

Well, for those in the 21st century, dont use Auto Zone products on your polymer guns. And there are far better options for guns than wd40, ecspecially for carried guns that may not be used for a while after being lubed. There is not better way to gunk up a door lock than spray it with wd40. Many people have carried a gun for 40 years and never had to use them. Don't mean it won't happen.

[jimmyraythomason]

Well, for those in the 21st century,Hmmm......nothing wrong with old school.And there are far better options for guns than wd40, no doubt,but nothing wrong with using it either.There is not better way to gunk up a door lock than spray it with wd40. Sure there is. Spray it with any oil. Door locks are never cleaned out. The particles left over from key wear are never removed from the lock,or dirt or grit. The comparison to a doorlock only works if you never clean your gun and just spray it periodically never removing the crud collected there. We once were required (at work)to lubricate all door locks on rental trucks with a penetrant/lube oil called Howe's Lube. It gummed up locks so badly they wouldn't work at all. We cleaned them all with WD-40,washing black gunk everywhere. Never had anymore problems with those locks and door latches.

[Brian Williams]

Only for my 1851 navy.

[Pyro]

Only for my 1851 navy.
Yup, field strip and throw the whole thing in a bucket of water.
After a dry in the oven and a spray of WD-40 it's good to go.

I've started to run a wet patch through the barrel and chamber(s) when cleaning because I shoot so much corrosive ammo. I don't fully agree with the "non-corrosive" aspect of some ammo.

[JustinJ]

"You mean the ones that are repackaged with a picture of a gun on the can and sold for five times the price? Yeah, I tend to avoid those."

Wether the solvent has a picture of a gun or a picture of carburetor on the can there is no need to rinse with water as they should evaporate completely and quickly.

"Why so many people are so absolutely terrified of getting water on their guns remains a mystery to me. You guys know that you sweat when you carry, right? And that there's usually some level of humidity in the air? And that there are countless people out there every day hunting, training and fighting in inclement weather with guns that don't magically transform into rustbuckets by sundown?"

Different gun finishes have varying rates of corrosion resistance but maintaining a protective film of an oil based product is essential. The problem with soapy water is that it removes this film. Plus, the amount of water affects rates of corrosion which is why soaking a gun with a water hose is differnt than a light drizzle. There is nothing wrong with using water so long as it is all removed, prefererabbly with a product that displaces moisture, soon after rinsing. Steel can actually rust much quicker than some may realize.

"Hmmm......nothing wrong with old school."

History is full of defeated militaries who refused to adopt new technologies who may disagree.

"Quote:
There is not better way to gunk up a door lock than spray it with wd40.

Sure there is. Spray it with any oil. "

Not exactly a good arguement to use WD40.

[jimmyraythomason]

There is not better way to gunk up a door lock than spray it with wd40.

Sure there is. Spray it with any oil. "

Not exactly a good arguement to use WD40.I'm not arguing for anyone to use WD-40 or anything else. The facts are that WD-40 does not gum up gun works if used in the proper manner. Poor cleaning procedures are at fault not the product used. I don't care what anybody uses or doesn't use. I just get SO tired of so much misinformation spewed out at the very mention of cleaning guns with water or brake cleaner or WD-40. History is full of defeated militaries who refused to adopt new technologies who may disagree. So why hasn't Ma Deuce been retired.

[Pyro]

I'm not arguing for anyone to use WD-40 or anything else. The facts are that WD-40 does not gum up gun works if used in the proper manner. Poor cleaning procedures are at fault not the product used. I don't care what anybody uses or doesn't use. I just get SO tired of so much misinformation spewed out at the very mention of cleaning guns with water or brake cleaner or WD-40.
It's terribly hard to gunk up a cap n' ball revolver's works if you know how to take care of it, after all black powder defines "gunk".
My cap n' ball is the only gun I use WD-40 on, something cheap I can just hose it down with, let it sit for awhile and evaporate before putting back together. And would you believe that after a proper cleaning and use of WD-40 I haven't a spot of rust on it yet. You can't use software to fix a hardware problem, buying the fancy foaming action bore cleaner is just as effective as a bucket of hot water and soap sometimes.

[0to60]

Wether the solvent has a picture of a gun or a picture of carburetor on the can there is no need to rinse with water as they should evaporate completely and quickly.

What kinda solvent evaporates quickly?

I've used lots of different solvents (right now I'm using Hoppe's #9) and NONE of them evaporate. Spray or soak the parts, scrub with a toothbrush, they'll be covered in solvent. Maybe it would evaporate after a day or so, but I haven't seen this happen during cleaning at all.

If solvent evaporated, what good would it do??? It would leave all the dirt behind as if you didn't clean in the first place.

[Snowbandit]

Between this thread and another recent one about all the things you can't use to clean an FN pistol I decided to try it today. My FN is made of nothing but stainless steel and plastic so I filled the kitchen sink with some hot water and Dawn dishsoap. Scrubbed down the whole gun with a nylon brush and rinsed in hot water. Dried everything with paper towels and compressed air then left it apart for several hours to make sure it was completely dry. One drop of oil on each of the six points described in the manual and it should be good to go. It seems to have worked out fine.

Mind you that FN is the cheapest gun I own and I did this as an experiment to see how it would work out. I don't have any complaints but I'm also a very long ways from trying that on something more valuable.

[Apocalypse-Now]

When I was in the army in 1962 I used hot shower water [with soap, toothbrush and a few patches] to clean my M-1 Garand. If I had been caught the 1st sergeant would probably put me on KP forever.


this should be the punishment for anyone that cleans their guns with water, or puts them in the dishwasher like people on glocktalk do.

[JustinJ]

Snowbandit, you are taking an unnecessary risk. You should have thouroughly sprayed the gun with an oil based product to ensure all water is displaced after air drying. Its unlikely you were able to get all water out of the slide internals. Not to mention tap water can leave behind salts and minerals.

[Overkilll0084]

I have been known to drop a stripped semi auto slide & it's associated parts into a ultrasonic cleaner filled w/ detergent & HOT water. Works well.