Colour case hardening on "classic" semis?


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BCRider
June 8, 2011, 11:31 PM
If the classic all steel semis such as the 1911, Browning Hi Power and Beretta 92's were available with colour case hardening and the "splotchy" browns, blues and even purples were available would you be up for buying such a thing? Or do you see such finishes as more appropriate to the old world revolvers?

Having bought a few Italian Classic Era cloned revolvers with this finishing I can't help but wonder if I would be swayed by the same finish on a semi if it were done in ways that produced colouring that fit with the style of gun.

I'm inclined to say "yes" to this since I really like the colour case hardened finishes on my guns so far.

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kozak6
June 9, 2011, 12:54 AM
Some are. No, I wouldn't be interested. It's too expensive.

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/7466/fullwesterner.jpg

Looks great. $1100.

PO2Hammer
June 9, 2011, 02:12 AM
Just doesn't look right to my eye on an auto, but as they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

The Lone Haranguer
June 9, 2011, 01:13 PM
Or do you see such finishes as more appropriate to the old world revolvers?
Yes.

Sam1911
June 9, 2011, 01:17 PM
Beretta 92s/M9s have Aluminum frames, except for a few fairly rare versions like the Steel I and Billenium models.

rcmodel
June 9, 2011, 01:27 PM
Color case hardening was never used as a finish, except to harden working parts like hammers & triggers on S&W & others, and frames like on double-barrel shotguns and SAA Colt revolvers.
The "color" was just a by-product of the actual intentions of it's use.

In actual fact, color case hardening makes a very poor firearms finish in itself.

It wears off quickly from handling & sun, and the colors will fade in a relatively short period of time when exposed to normal gun handling.

I would not buy a 1911 with a color case hardened finish on a bet, as if I used it, it would be a gray ghost fairly quickly!

rc

Old Fuff
June 9, 2011, 01:38 PM
Besides the reasons expressed by rcmodel, the high-heat process used to make true bone & charcoal color/case hardening would result in warpage on a high number of frames. It might work on slides, but again - the usual heat treating done to them would be ruined.

Other methods to simply produce a sort of color caseharding look might work, but most of the results don't look right. Original pistols were either blued or plated, and things should stay that way. Otherwise you open a can of worms.

VA27
June 9, 2011, 08:44 PM
Gimme blue steel frames and slides with CCH hammers and triggers. That's classic.

Old Fuff
June 9, 2011, 09:10 PM
Ah.................

Don't try to case harden one of them new triggers that has pot-metal or plastic fingerpieces... :what: :D

Dimis
June 10, 2011, 10:54 AM
I would have to say yes if it was a 1911
for some reason I love the way the Olympic Arms look but never liked OA so I wont buy one

the kimber centennial is gorgeous to me with the case colored frame and blue slide

but I also know more often than not RC is right so I would probably only do this on a safe queen which I probably wouldnt own (I shoot everything I get my hands on)

so sadly as much as I find it to be a beautiful finish I couldnt justify owning it

Nushif
June 10, 2011, 10:59 AM
I have to say ... I love the way it looks. a whole lot.

But I would have my concerns about durability. So if they came up with a process that's also a good protecting coat ... I'd say hells yes! On any semi!

Cards81fan
June 10, 2011, 11:15 AM
Why not a Sig in "Rainbow Titanium?"

http://gunsforsale.com/ghg/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/sig_p238_rainbow_02.jpg


(It's not my style either, guys)

451 Detonics
June 10, 2011, 05:56 PM
I would go with a case color frame and this damascus slide in a heartbeat...maybe a new project gun....

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z271/reloader1959/handguns/caspian_damascus_1911.jpg

xr1200
June 10, 2011, 06:02 PM
Here's a link to how ite color is achieved. http://www.finishing.com/2000-2199/2108.shtml

Dimis
June 10, 2011, 09:28 PM
reading that link im a bit confused

ive read articles about case color techniques using old motor oil instead of the bone and leather method
im sure the oil method is a newer way since case hardening would predate cars

but now im curious if one would do the old motor oil technique would it in turn be a better finish with some of the oil penetrating the steel?

or am i just out on a limb?

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