Factory Crimp, tell me how this looks!


July 12, 2011, 08:30 PM
Something just looks off to me. These are .357 mag, mixed brass and montana gold 125gr jhp's. Im using a Lee factory crimp die. Any suggestions?[IMG]http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af133/MrGorilla2010/357mag2jpg.jpg

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July 12, 2011, 08:44 PM
So, what looks "off"?

July 12, 2011, 08:54 PM
I guess its the uneven parts of the brass when i crimp them, im still not to use to using this factory crimp die, i use to use the regular rcbs die and decided to give the factory crimp die a try. I know they function because i shot some like this over the weekend lol.

July 12, 2011, 09:00 PM
Looks good. Personally I think the "factory crimp" die is a sales gimmick and doesn't do anything that you can't accomplish with "standard" dies. I can see a lot of variation in case lengths in your photo. It is almost impossible to get consistent crimps when the cases are all different lengths. I flare very gently and use taper crimps for everything. The brass lasts much longer.

July 12, 2011, 09:22 PM
Yeah i noticed it too, its all mixed brass from a local indoor range.

July 12, 2011, 10:20 PM
Oddly enough, i just ordered some of these same bullets, what load are you using for yours?

July 12, 2011, 10:23 PM
Those ones you are looking at in the pic are 125gr montana golds sitting over 10.0 grains of Power Pistol, small pistol primers, mixed range brass, seated to 1.580

July 13, 2011, 04:15 AM
The crimp looks way off to me. That's what my first couple rounds looked like when I overcrimped with a TAPER crimp die. My Lee .357 seater die puts a nice smooth roll on the mouth. I assume the FCD does, too, but I have hardly used it.

Just a guess, but maybe the crimp groove on those bullets is too shallow for the amount of crimp you're trying to get.

July 13, 2011, 07:35 AM
I agree GLOOB, the cannelure is extremely shallow, which does not allow a nice roll crimp. Not really a cannelure, just some roll marks on the bullet. I would taper crimp (http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=5942202&postcount=37) those bullets, although the OP's crimps are pretty good for what he had to work with.

Master Blaster
July 13, 2011, 08:29 AM
The flat ring at the top of the roll crimp, means you are over crimping, and pushing the case beyond the crimp ring in the die. Back the die off 1/8 turn at a time until you get a rounded roll crimp without the flat ring at the case mouth.

July 13, 2011, 09:12 AM
I'm not trying to put a roll crimp on them....

July 13, 2011, 10:04 AM
The Lee FCD is putting the roll crimp on them because the .357 mag is a revolver load.

The Lee FCD for revolver rounds applies a roll crimp, and the FCD for auto-loader rounds applies a taper crimp.

You will have to adjust the level of the crimp (light/medium/heavy).

July 13, 2011, 10:49 AM
Ok so obviously I need to back off quite a bit with this factory crimp die.

July 13, 2011, 10:56 AM
The "roll" part of the crimp looks almost right, if it were to continue a few thousandths more. The crimp ring above that doesn't look right at all.

Like the other guys said, 357 mag gets a roll crimp, not a taper crimp.

July 13, 2011, 11:07 AM
Ok, when I back off on this die it seems as if I am not getting a good crimp, I am about to go back to the rcbs dies.....

July 13, 2011, 12:05 PM
I'm not trying to put a roll crimp on them...
If you do not want to roll crimp, buy a Lee (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=469800) or a Redding (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=719395) taper crimp only die. 99% of .38 Spl dies come with a roll crimp built in, as does the Lee FCD for .38 Spl.

July 13, 2011, 12:20 PM
Am I seeing a ridge above the curved part of the crimp? Looks like the rounds are crimped too much and is leaving a ridge, rather than a smoothe curve.

July 13, 2011, 12:32 PM
Ok so obviously I need to back off quite a bit with this factory crimp die.

Do away with the FCD and do as walkalong says, your problems will be over.

July 13, 2011, 01:28 PM
Looks like the LFCD is turned too far in.

The book calls for snugging to the case, then 1/2 turn (light) to 1 full turn (heavy) more.

If you're crimping slow powder Big Dog loads then you want a roll crimp. It helps powder combustion & prevent the bullets from jumping crimp under heavy recoil.

The LFCD is just to snug down the mouth & remove the bell. Those are for lower power target loads with faster powder.

July 13, 2011, 09:48 PM
I have gotten similar looking crimps using the lee factory crimp die.... I fillowed the instructions and did a full turn for a heavy crimp.... These are for loads that call for heavy crimps.... Now I am worried. Is there any danger in setting the crimp like above or will it just lower the case life?

July 14, 2011, 02:30 AM
The profile of the Montana Gold bullet must be different than the Speer. Looks to me like they should be seated to a little shorter COL. The crimp looks fine, but it should go into the cannelure. That's what it's for.

July 14, 2011, 07:38 AM
A proper taper crimp die cannot put that ridge on the brass. That ridge is from a roll crimp where there is no more cannelure for the crimp to go in. That same adjustment would work with a lead crimp groove or a good deep cannelure, but it is more crimp than needed with that poor cannelure. It will not hurt a thing except case life, and even then the cases will last quite a while. Back off on the roll crimp a little, or get a taper crimp die like I linked to. The Redding is superior, but double the cost. Polish the Lee if you get it.

July 14, 2011, 09:08 AM
Thanks for the info guys, I am going to look into that other die, i ran another small batch lastnight and adjusted the die, I'll post a pic when I get home to see what ya think.

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