Military crimp cleaning options?


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DonP
July 18, 2011, 01:21 PM
I picked up a full 5 gallon bucket full of Lake City 30.06 brass at an estate sale last weekend at an obscenely low price.

From the looks of it, it's "once fired" and the ones I've checked so far still have their crimp in the primer pocket.

Other than my little Lee primer pocket cleaner, any thoughts on the best way to clear out the military crimp for a lot of cases without getting "crimp elbow" and doing it by hand?

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parker51
July 18, 2011, 01:27 PM
Dillon Super Swage 600.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600

Will also remove crimps from .223 Remington. A little pricey, but can last you a lifetime. I've had one for over 10 years now and after several thousand rounds it still functions like the day I got it. Hope this helps.

MtnCreek
July 18, 2011, 01:27 PM
Countersink bit and a cordless drill. (or spend $100 on a dillon super swage)

Miata Mike
July 18, 2011, 01:38 PM
Your little Lee primer pocket cleaner will do nothing to the crimps.

Countersink bit and a cordless drill. (or spend $100 on a dillon super swage) A light touch with a countersink bit, or borrow a Dillon super swage. I do most all of my .223 cases with one just because it is so simple.

dbarnhart
July 18, 2011, 03:32 PM
+1 on the Dillon Super Swage 600.

Look at it this way: Buy the Dillon, process all the brass painlessly and very quickly. When you're done, sell the Dillon tool. In the end you will have spent less money than if you'd bought a cheaper tool.

dagger dog
July 18, 2011, 03:43 PM
Lyman has a primer pocket tool kit with a small and large crimp remover.

I have used my case mouth deburr-chamfer tool to remove crimps.

I would imagine the 45 degree counter sink as Miata Mike state might work a little better than the chamfer tool due to the more shallow angle.

Just checked the Lyman site and the primer pocket uniformer-crimp removal tool is available for $20.50

rscalzo
July 18, 2011, 03:51 PM
Lyman has a primer pocket tool kit with a small and large crimp remover.


I have one but don't expect the use of your hand for a week or so. Dillion is the best way to go. You can sell it on EBay for almost what you paid.

dagger dog
July 18, 2011, 03:53 PM
You can chuck it in a drill press or battery power drill.

Kevin Rohrer
July 18, 2011, 04:12 PM
Get the Dillon and you can swage them in front of the TV.

Cherokee
July 18, 2011, 05:18 PM
Dillon super swage. If you got that good of a deal on the brass, another $100 would be worth it and it will also be good for any other crimped primer cases.

Jumping Frog
July 19, 2011, 12:50 AM
Another option is the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager. It costs about $35 for both small/large primer pockets.

Here is a Youtube video of its operation. It is really quite simple to use.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdkA7vDeaes

ArchAngelCD
July 19, 2011, 01:01 AM
I have and use a RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Combo (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=447022) and it works very well for a small price paid. (and it's under $30)

There is a "new and improved" version, the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Combo 2 (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=235832) that's supposed to be "upgraded" and it will cost you $9 more.

Grumulkin
July 19, 2011, 07:58 AM
I have and use a RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Combo (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=447022) and it works very well for a small price paid. (and it's under $30)

There is a "new and improved" version, the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Combo 2 (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=235832) that's supposed to be "upgraded" and it will cost you $9 more.
That's what I use.

loadedround
July 19, 2011, 08:15 AM
If you have a buddy or two that also reload mmilsurp ammo, then I suggest you buy the Dillon Super Swage as the others have suggested, but split the cost evenly. I have used other tools for the military crimp primers, but the Dillon tool beats the others hands down. As the old adage says "ask the man who owns one." :)

edpm3
July 19, 2011, 01:46 PM
I have the RCBS primer pocket swager and the Dillon Super Swage. The Dillon costs a lot more but for speed and ease of use it's worth every penny.

BeltFedEd
July 19, 2011, 10:27 PM
Check out the ingenuity of this simple mod to automate the Dillon Super Swage.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaZHeSUqQbk&feature=related

medalguy
July 20, 2011, 01:25 AM
Buy the Dillon, used it, and sell it on eBay for what you paid for it. A friend did that and it worked.

You can't beat the Dillon for ease and speed. Never removes too much brass like a countersink (actually it doesn't remove ANY brass).

ArchAngelCD
July 20, 2011, 01:30 AM
I agree the Dillon tool is a great one but the cost is high. Granted it's quick and easy but so is the RCBS tool. Did you look at the youtube video listed in Post #11?

Remember, once you fix the primer pocket it doesn't need to be done again.

MtnCreek
July 20, 2011, 09:28 AM
BeltFedEd,

Thanks for the link!

rfwobbly
July 20, 2011, 01:09 PM
The forces involved in swagging are tremendous. Look at the YouTube video and watch the bench bending if you don't believe. The only issue with the RCBS pocket swagger is that you must have a very strong O-frame press, such as a Rock Chucker or Jr. If you've got a discount whimpy open-frame aluminum press, then you'll need a new press or the Dillon stand-alone unit.

That's why most people turn to a countersink bit placed in a hand-held drill motor or drill press.

eam3clm@att.net
July 21, 2011, 01:31 AM
I use the hornady reamer chucked in my drill and did not purchase the handle. It works and it is cheap.

Knucklehead2
July 21, 2011, 05:07 PM
60 degree single flute Countersink, 45 degree removes to much material from the base face.
Chuck it in a hand drill clamped to the work bench, holding the brass give it a quick push on the countersink. Probably do a 1000 or more an hour.

kingmt
July 22, 2011, 05:14 PM
I bought the swage & ram prime from CH4D & love it. I can't say mine is easier or harder then the RCBS or Dillon because I have never used ether but the CH4D is as fast as I or my 8 year old son can go(he is actually faster then me). It takes no effort or time so I see no point in getting the Dillon.

mdi
July 22, 2011, 05:21 PM
Cordless drill or screwdriver plus a 60 degree countersink. A good countersink will last years and years when used for de-crimping. You don't have to take out much metal, just enough to remove the crimp ridge...http://www.mcmaster.com/#chamfering-countersinks/=dai011

ArchAngelCD
July 23, 2011, 01:15 AM
I don't care for methods that remove brass from the case. The RCBS and Dillon swagers push the brass back where it started from.

oldfortyfiveauto
July 23, 2011, 10:01 AM
I've had fewer problems repriming the brass after using a countersink then when I've used the swage. The swage requires the brass be uniform from the same batch or you will be adjusting a lot.

parker51
July 23, 2011, 04:00 PM
The swage requires the brass be uniform from the same batch or you will be adjusting a lot.

Not with the Dillon. You are only pushing back the edge of the pocket, not stretching the entire pocket. I have yet had to swage any brass a second time that was run through the Dillon. I have swaged 223, 308 and 30-06 by just setting up one piece of brass from each caliber and then swaged mixed head stamps with no problem. You don't have to hit the bottom of the pocket with the swaging rod to remove the crimp.

oldfortyfiveauto
July 24, 2011, 10:14 AM
Actually the Dillon is where I had the most trouble. In order to swage enough to get the primers in I ran in to a lot of cases (mostly 30-06 & 38 spec) that required such a tight setting that that cases were damaged on the inside by the rod.

P-32
July 24, 2011, 11:02 AM
Actually the Dillon is where I had the most trouble. In order to swage enough to get the primers in I ran in to a lot of cases (mostly 30-06 & 38 spec) that required such a tight setting that that cases were damaged on the inside by the rod.

Well, I don't know how you ran into problems with the Dillon. I have swaged '06, 308 . 223 and 45 Acp with the Dillon and never had a problem. I have worn out a barrel on 308 M-1 and a AR using GI brass. nGet the Dillon.

oldfortyfiveauto
July 24, 2011, 11:01 PM
As best I could ever determine was the crimps were much heavier than normal. I had some old Greek 30-06 recently I could not even get the primers out.

ArchAngelCD
July 25, 2011, 12:12 AM
As best I could ever determine was the crimps were much heavier than normal. I had some old Greek 30-06 recently I could not even get the primers out.
When the crimp is so heavy the primer can't easily be removed I use a inexpensive Lee tool. It's their Decapper and Base for the 30 Caliber (http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Decapper-and-Base-30-Caliber.html) and for the 22 Caliber (http://leeprecision.com/xcart/Decapper-and-Base-22-Caliber.html). At under $6 each they are great tools. The pins are extremely hard and the base is solid enough to hit hard. It's not fastest tool around but then again I only use it on tough to remove primers.
(Midway has them for $5.39 each)

oldfortyfiveauto
July 25, 2011, 05:41 PM
Broke my Lee tool too and could could not reliably get them hydraulically. Finally I scrapped them.

jimmertoons
July 25, 2011, 11:52 PM
I purchased the Dillon several years ago, but my daughter, then 10 years old, decided that she wanted to help daddy, so she became the master with it. I ocassionally have to reset the depth, when the primer hole has extra flash on the inside, not allowing the center punch to sit as deeply in the case. I have used it on 223, 308, 7.62x39, 30-06, 9mm, 45acp and 7.63x54r. Works on everything, without removing material from the case head or beating up the bench.

MtnCreek
July 26, 2011, 08:11 AM
Dillon Super Swage requires head thickness to be consistant. I have had to make some adjustments when switching from one brass type to the other. Very minor issue; it's a great tool.

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