$28 Bullet Feeder for Any Progressive


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GW Staar
August 22, 2011, 04:13 PM
No kidding! Why didn't I think of that?

Arfcom Thread
(http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/349969_DIY_Hornady_LNL_AP_Bullet_Feeder__9mm_.html).
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6065/6060313869_376141968d_b.jpg

In Action Video> http://youtu.be/7aBycOUiNEk

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jmorris
August 22, 2011, 11:00 PM
LOL, I love it. Do you fill it from the skylight?

GW Staar
August 22, 2011, 11:24 PM
No, the plastic tubes are 3' long. Think primer tubes with a clip in the bottom to keep the primers from falling out, only bullets in a bigger tube and a bigger clip in the bottom and a 2" (next tube-size bigger) coupler glued half way at the top.

Then you load the first one in the Hornady feeder die, pull the clip, the bullets drop in, then slide the next preloaded tube onto the first one, pull its clip. Etc.

IOW, he's loading 3' tubes in advance in his easy chair I guess. Cool! Can't beat the price. BTW, unlike primer tubes he puts a hitch pin at the top of each tube as well so he doesn't dump them upsidedown.

Geeze, I coulda saved a lot of money and time by just doing that and NOT doing my elaborate Hornady Bullet Feeder Project....sigh.

Julian537
August 23, 2011, 01:08 AM
Where did you get the tubes from? What are they originally for?

GW Staar
August 23, 2011, 01:51 AM
Where did you get the tubes from? What are they originally for?

Aquarium Tubes @ Linens N Things (http://www.lnt.com/product/plumbing-parts/11442-504991/lees-rigid-plastic-tubing.html) They come in telescoping sizes 1/16" intervals having 1/32" walls. IOW's 5/8" slides over 9/16" over 1/2" over 7/16" over 3/8".....so there's a size and coupler for every caliber.

Since you buy a Hornady Feed Die for each caliber and a tube for each caliber, then you pay $28 for each caliber, unless you buy extra tubing. (all tubing from those folks is free shipping)

tooltech
August 23, 2011, 01:52 AM
From the ARFCOM thread:
http://www.lnt.com/product/plumbing-parts/11442-504991/lees-rigid-plastic-tubing.html

A-FIXER
August 23, 2011, 02:47 AM
Very cool.

medalguy
August 23, 2011, 02:54 AM
By the time you load the bullet tubes, are you really saving very much time? It doesn't take very long to seat a bullet on a case.

jmorris
August 23, 2011, 09:57 AM
By the time you load the bullet tubes, are you really saving very much time? It doesn't take very long to seat a bullet on a case.


No, a bullet feeder without a collator only keeps your fingers safe. The good news is that they are not too hard to build. I made these from PVC pipe and 1/2" thick plastic.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/bullet%20feeder/feeder1.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/bullet%20feeder/DSC01472.jpg

F_L
August 23, 2011, 09:59 AM
I have a similar set up on an old RL450. I use a flexible tubing that holds 100 bullets. It's held over the press by a line through an eye in the ceiling. It is faster as I don't have the fat fumbled fingers on my left hand trying to put little bullets in little holes. My left hand now just operates the press and advances the shell plate. My right hand loads the cases.

gab909
August 23, 2011, 01:59 PM
"By the time you load the bullet tubes, are you really saving very much time? It doesn't take very long to seat a bullet on a case." Quote

Thanks for pointing that out medalguy, and do I really need one more mechanical thing to go wrong with my setup? Do I really need to load a thousand rounds an hour? I will stay happy with my 600 rounds and just sit back and marvel at the awesome things you guys setup and engineer. By the way, my mail lady already hates me for my heavy packages, she would probably burn down my house if I shot anymore.

GW Staar
August 23, 2011, 03:26 PM
No, a bullet feeder without a collator only keeps your fingers safe. The good news is that they are not too hard to build.

We're still waiting for your step by step tutorial!:D Easy for you is not so easy for me, without good instructions!

I think you can save a lot of time if you fill say 6 tubes at once, duel tasking. Watch CSI or something while you do it. And I'm betting you can fill 6 tubes lots faster than directing 300 bullets into a seater by hand....and with a bonus...your safe fingers.

That said I already have Hornady's collator and I'm not going to chuck it any time soon. BUT, I can see the advantage to have ready tubes of bullets sitting there and simply plugging them in a tool head too! That may just be faster than changing calibers in your collator, dumping a box of bullets in and waiting for the tubes to fill up for a less common caliber that you just want to load a box or too. I will probably use both...the collator for .45 ACP & .40 S&W, and the tubes for others.

There's a guy posting on the Firing Line who wants to buy a blue or red progressive but doesn't want to pay the bucks for their case feeders. For him, this little trick could increase his output a lot, and make it so he only has to focus on placing cases. For RCBS Pro 2000 users, who can't swing a bullet feeder yet are in the same boat. They can start with the feed dies (towards the buying of a collator) and buy some $2 tubing.

nojoke
August 24, 2011, 04:46 PM
Off topic:

Was it difficult to move and align your garage door to the loading area?

AlliedArmory
August 24, 2011, 06:16 PM
The garage rail just happened to be there, so that's where I mounted it. If that didn't work, I would have extended the tubes and gone up higher and most likely made a way to mount it to one of the beans. It doesn't need to be sturdy, just enough where the weight of the tubes doesn't bend the tubes and snap them.

medalguy
August 25, 2011, 03:32 PM
I think I'll keep feeding bullets by hand. If I tried to load tubes while watching CSI, half of them would be in upside down, done when I was yelling at the idiots on TV who are doing everything wrong like commenting on how the "registered owner" of the gun was so-and-so, go talk to him. :fire:

GW Staar
August 25, 2011, 03:58 PM
I think I'll keep feeding bullets by hand. If I tried to load tubes while watching CSI, half of them would be in upside down, done when I was yelling at the idiots on TV who are doing everything wrong like commenting on how the "registered owner" of the gun was so-and-so, go talk to him. :fire:

LOL! Watch something less stressful.....like "Angel". Download the series from Netflix. That's the kind of series where you can totally relax, because there is nothing even remotely like reality there.:D

benzy2
August 25, 2011, 08:49 PM
I've thought about this many times, just never thought about using the bullet feeder die from the electric kit. While it may take time to load the tubes, having done so with the lee kits, it is still faster to load the tubes than to place each bullet individually during cycling. Plus you don't pinch a finger.

357Shooter
August 25, 2011, 08:57 PM
Got everything to take care of 357 & 45ACP on the way. I wonder if the same thing can be done with cases, don't see why not, I'm checking into the Hornady parts tonight.

AlliedArmory
August 25, 2011, 10:02 PM
From looking on forums and youtube, there are many ways to make a case feeder. It is just somewhat complicated.

jmorris
August 26, 2011, 10:57 AM
We're still waiting for your step by step tutorial! Easy for you is not so easy for me, without good instructions

There is really only one critical part on the entire machine, the flipper. The rest of the machine just has to rotate bullets over the flipper and drop them into the feeder tube.

Step by step this is what it does.

Inverted bullet tip drops into the flipper

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMAG0372.jpg

The slot in the flipper drags the towards the outside

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMAG0373.jpg

This lays the bullet flat with the base towards the center of the drive wheel.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMAG0374.jpg

A ramp cut into the side of the PVC pipe then lifts the nose upwards.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMAG0375.jpg

This photo shows how a base down bullet rides over the flipper slot.

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/IMAG0376.jpg

jmorris
August 26, 2011, 11:10 AM
The drill jigs for the "wheel" is shown in post #9 above.

This is what it looks like on the inside. The slot in the bottom is so you can install/remove the motor with the drive pin in place. A similar slot is in the bottom of the "wheel"

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/bullet%20feeder/DSC01537.jpg

After your feeding bullets at half the speed of light you will need a way to stop the flow. I cut a slot in clear tubing and wrapped a copper (what I had handy) strip around a drill bit the right size, then placed a spacer the same thickness of my switch and put them in a vice to form the mount. When bullets fill to that point it cuts power to the motor.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/bullet%20feeder/IMG00341-20101213-1504.jpg

CHALK22
August 26, 2011, 06:50 PM
Looks like I have a weekend "project" to work on! Well at least find/order the stuff, and maybe do it next weekend!

GW Staar
August 26, 2011, 09:08 PM
jmorris, questions:

1. Where do you buy the 1/2" plastic you use for the wheels? BTW your jig is great. You have to be accurate with that part of the project. The wheel plastic looks like Delrin?

2. What is the circle cut in the PVC for, that's just before the bullet-flip slot and ramp.

3. Is the "stair step" necessary or will it work with a smooth slope?

4. Is this collator setup used for pistol and rifle?

5. What all do you change for other calibers.

6. How did you fasten the PVC pipe (10" maybe?) to the bottom.

7. Motor and Motor box specs. Is that a metal sq. tube box you welded to the pipe support?

jmorris
August 26, 2011, 11:47 PM
I used 1/2" Hyvar, pretty much like UHMW, it was free.

A ball bearing KISS used them but I don't think you really need it.

Again the kiss had it and I don't think it is needed.

That one is for 9mm but I use it for rifle too.

The wheels are caliber specific, for rifle I stack one on top of anoher as they are longer. You also have to swap the flipper.

10-32 sockethead cap screws, because I had them. Its 6" pvc and the bottom fits snug before the screws pull them together. A sheetrock screw would work as well.

I formed the sheetmetal cover but box tube would work too, or nothing at all. That's just for looks.
The motor is from Granger. I don't remember what it is but all you need is one that will collate a bullet once every second to keep you going. I took a video of that one running but it feeds so fast you can't tell what is going on. When it needs one, it feeds 2-3 before the gear motor stops.

Zotto
August 27, 2011, 11:46 AM
I did something similar to the OP, but mounted the bullet feeder die on a Redding turret press. I epoxied a 1/2 inch aluminum rod in the base of a bullet puller and used that as the support. With the info jmorris has supplied I think I can create something simple to fill tubes of 50 bullets. Even with hand feeding the bullet tubes 50 rounds is faster than before.

http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx309/ZottoK/feeder2.jpg

CHALK22
August 27, 2011, 08:44 PM
Well I ordered 4 of the tubes from LNT this morning, and now I am working on a midway order for the bullet feeder die. Thanks for the project idea, guys! I have the case feeder on my LNL AP, so I will post pics up when I get it all set up, I think it will be able to be mounted to the CF for stability, I'll let you know!

one problem i just realised, now i need a 6 station press!

1-decap-resize
2-powder carge
3-RCBS powder cop die
4-bullet feeder die
5-bullet seater die
6-bullet crimp die

jmorris
August 27, 2011, 11:32 PM
That is what a 650 and GSI feeder gets you, you feed and seat on #4. You crimp on #5 and powder check on #3.

GW Staar
August 28, 2011, 02:19 AM
That's true, it just costs a hell of a lot of money. And if you have any other press than a 650 or 1050 you are SOL. I emailed GSI about the possibility of a unit for the similar RCBS tool head....and got ignored....not even a polite "hell no".

If you are a rifleman shooting .223 or .308, you do have another cheaper option. RCBS's rifle bullet feeder...which also feeds and seats in a single station.

As for a true 6 station press, where at least 5 stations aren't specialized for a single procedure, we are still waiting...maybe in the next generation of progressives. Which company will be first?

AlliedArmory
August 28, 2011, 09:13 PM
You will either need to visually inspect the powder or seat/crimp in the same station.

tooltech
September 5, 2011, 08:40 PM
Question about the feeder die; As I understand it, you need to use plated or jacketed bullets with the LnL bullet feeder. Is that because of the collator? or the the die itself? I'm ready to do this, but it may be a problem because I shoot a lot of lswc.

GW Staar
September 6, 2011, 01:31 PM
I only use plated or jacketed bullets, so my experience is limited. But I would think both, if your lead bullets are wax lubed. Face it, the lube will gunk up anything it slides against. One good thing about AlliedArmory's $28 feeder is that there is only the dies....easily taken apart and cleaned....and the straight wall clear tube...which can be cleaned easier than spring tubing. I have no doubt that using wax lubed bullets will require cleaning often.

jmorris has said he has used "dry-lubed" bullets successfully in his collator's and feeders. I know even less about that. Maybe he can expound on that subject.

jmorris's picture shown below (used in a post on page one) seems to indicate that idea:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/reloading/bullet%20feeder/DSC01472.jpg

357Shooter
September 9, 2011, 08:58 AM
Mistake gone GOOD. I ordered tubes last week from LNT for my 357 & 45ACP project. What I found was the ⅜" I ordered for my 357 too tight, the " I ordered for 45ACP too small. I reordered some 7/16" (for 357) and 5/8" (45). I found by using the 7/16" (357 fits well) inside the 1/2" it creates a strong enough tube so there is no need for and outside support for it. I took and put a bevel on the outside edge of both tubes with my RCBS Chamfer and Deburring tool, then used electric tape on the 7/16" to make tight fit in Bullet feed Die, then push the outside tube 1/2" over and down to die top for tight fit in die. I then drilled my holes in the proper place for the pins and everything stays together and is ridged enough to stand on it's own in the Hornady Bullet feed die. Worked out great, a bit more $ for the extra tubes, but a nice clean set-up without having to rig an "Eyelet" for upper support.

GW Staar
September 9, 2011, 01:03 PM
Good idea Scott!...looks like a worthwhile setup to me....especially if you buy some more tubing and load up 2 or 3 so's you can change loaded tubes when they empty by just dropping in another. That's where you'll really see a speed advantage....and it's still cheap enough that most anyone can afford it, especially while a bullet feeder/collator or a case feeder remains out of reach budget-wise.

Your reinforcing sleeve could be transferred to additional tubes if the holes are drilled using the sleeve as a drill guide.;)

357Shooter
September 9, 2011, 03:01 PM
I got 6 pairs @ for 357 and 45 ACP, the 357 tube holds about 55, 142g Montana Gold + I think 6 in the die, so I'm good for 300+ at a time for them. The reinforcing sleeve, I'm thinking, will only work well if it is just one size up from the correct "Bullet" tube, because they must fit tight together to be rigid. I do think you may be able to use bullet close to size, like 9mm or 380 in the 357 tube.

GW Staar
September 9, 2011, 04:12 PM
You misunderstood what I meant...my fault.

I meant, for example, that 2 or 3 7/16" tubes for your .357 bullets can all share ONE 1/2" sleeve. Sorry for the ambiguity.

357Shooter
September 9, 2011, 06:20 PM
OK, got ya, I figured for the few extra $$ per tube and free shipping, I figured I'd go ahead and make up sets of them in each caliber so they are all set to use when I need them. It's nice to be able to move them around and not worry about kinking one. Thanks for your original post, you got me going on this with your set-up and it's ending up to be a great project. BTW, I'm sure others would like to hear about it, feel free to use any of my posts or pics in yours if you care to spread the word on other forums.
On another note, I contacted Hornady to see if it was possible to purchase part of the Brass Feeder (minus the collator drum & motor) to use your system but no go so far. Thanks again for the post!

AlliedArmory
September 12, 2011, 10:57 PM
Let us know how it all comes out.

357Shooter
September 13, 2011, 07:12 AM
No Go on purchasing the case feeder minus the drum. Spoke with a very nice Service Rep and he said they couldn't do it because they would end up with a bunch of drums with no where to go for them. Sounds like they maybe outsource the whole unit, so they can't just get the lower, don't know, maybe it's just not something worth while profit wise for them.

jmorris
September 13, 2011, 10:21 AM
I understand they have a good warranty, do you suppose they send complete units out if only one part fails?

GW Staar
September 13, 2011, 01:03 PM
I understand they have a good warranty, do you suppose they send complete units out if only one part fails?

Good question. I do know that some big companies have separate intra-company entities who handle parts vs warranty, even keeping their own inventory. That said, I doubt Hornady's reloading equipment division is that big.

Just my observation, but I get the feeling Hornady's reloading division is smallish compared to their bullet division, and a lot of their products are outsourced. Case in point was their problem LnL bushings last year, blamed on out-of-spec production from a supplier. Also their inability to keep their new products in stock, especially their bullet feeders and feeder dies, and sometimes their AP presses as well. They have enjoyed a nitch. But their recent attempts to attract more customers with new and reasonably priced goodies, worked.....faster than they could keep up with! I wish them well....and wish they'd hurry with the rifle feeder kits they promised!:D

Bottom line is their smallishness probably makes it true about being left with parts without parts.

CHALK22
October 23, 2011, 05:31 PM
Finally got mine up and running, and I thought I would post up pics of how I supported the upper of the bullet tube. I used a 1/4" threaded eylet and it seemed to work perfect on the 9mm tubes. I will eventually build one for .45ACP as well, so I might need a larger i.d. on the eylet. I used a piece of aluminum strap from work, and bent it and then gave it a curve to match the curve of the case feeder. A couple holes/rivets, and we are GTG. The larger hole all the way on the right is an already existing hole in the aluminum strap, I just didn't want to use it for the mounting. Also, I adjusted my Lee bullet seating die to also give it a small crimp, so I am able to load with RCBS powder cop die all in 5 stations.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Rennwagen1/photobucket-6308-1318045545342.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Rennwagen1/photobucket-1493-1318045525375.jpg

AlliedArmory
November 1, 2011, 05:46 PM
Awesome job. Speed things up much since you already have the case feeder?

CHALK22
November 1, 2011, 09:59 PM
Yeah, big time! Let's say I ran out of pistol powder and 124g fmjs veeeery fast. I just need to get some more play money free'd up so that I can justify the .45 bullet feeder and see what else I need to buy/modify. Then I will have to buy a .40 and do it all again!

John C
November 2, 2011, 01:22 AM
I've read this whole thread, and watched the video. I'm still a bit confused.

It seems like these dies drop the bullet onto the case, they don't seat?

And, you NEED a 5 station press to make this work?

Can somebody confirm?

I have a Dillon 550, so I'm out of luck?

Thanks,

-John

jmorris
November 2, 2011, 11:38 AM
It seems like these dies drop the bullet onto the case, they don't seat?


Correct, the only bullet feeder that feeds and seats at the same station are the GSI feeders and you can only get one for the 650 or 1050.

jmorris
November 2, 2011, 11:41 AM
And, you NEED a 5 station press to make this work?

Correct, if you want to seat and crimp in two different stations. If you seat and crimp on #4 you could drop a bullet on #3.

AlliedArmory
November 7, 2011, 09:02 PM
I've read this whole thread, and watched the video. I'm still a bit confused.

It seems like these dies drop the bullet onto the case, they don't seat?

And, you NEED a 5 station press to make this work?

Can somebody confirm?

I have a Dillon 550, so I'm out of luck?

Thanks,

-John

Just like jmorris said, you will need to seat/crimp in #4 which will open up #3 for the feeder die. #1 & #2 will remain the same.

CHALK22
December 5, 2011, 08:36 PM
Alright, so now since I bought myself a Glock 23 for my birthday, I need to get the LNL AP set up for .40. I have put the bullet feeder die/shell plate on my christmas list, but I want to get the plastic tubes on the way, so I am ready to go when the rest of the supplies show up. I need a favor from someone who is a already setup to load .40 with a
bullet feeder. Can somebody please give me an I.D. measurement of the .40 bullet feeder die where the plastic tubes mount? That way I can the right tubes ordered, and ready to go. TIA!

jmorris
December 5, 2011, 08:55 PM
If you are new to reloading I would get used to it without a feeder. Think of it like walking before you start to run.

Muddydogs
December 5, 2011, 10:31 PM
If you go to the suppliers listed on the first post, or the AR15.com post. I think the place is called linens n things. Get the 1/2 inch thin wall pipe. This size pipe fits in the .40 bullet feeder die perfect and feeds bullets like it was made for it.

Go here and get the 1/2 inch. http://www.lnt.com/product/plumbing-parts/11442-504991/lees-rigid-plastic-tubing.html

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k256/muddydogs/Weapons/100_2943.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k256/muddydogs/Weapons/100_2939.jpg

CHALK22
December 6, 2011, 12:21 AM
Jmorris, I have been at this for a while, just bought a new caliber, that's all.

Muddydogs, you're my hero, exactly what I needed!

Clicked the link, ordered 4, shipped free, and used my paypal, so no need for a LNT account, Thanks!

Blue68f100
December 6, 2011, 10:04 AM
I tried that a couple of years ago and found I spent more time loading the tubes than to just drop the bullet in the feeder or place it in the round. Now if you have a way to auto load the tubes you will be ahead. If you want to increase your speed add a brass feeder. Then you only function is to set bullets and pull the lever.

Muddydogs
December 6, 2011, 10:18 AM
No problem. I ordered 4 sizes that I gathered from other posts in hopes of covering .40, 38, 45 and maybe 44. The size I found recommended for the .40 was way to big and needed adjusted to fit in the die but the 1/2 inch work's great. The other calibers fit in the other tubes I have but I don't have dies so I am not sure how the tube fits in the die. I do know that 10 bullets fit in the .40 die, I put in 9 as with 10 the pipe is harder to get seated in the die. 64 165 grain flat point bullets fit in the tube with the pin in the bottom and once the pin is pulled a couple more bullets can be set in the tube. If you don't have at least 5 or so bullets in the die before you pull the pin on the tube there is enough force when the stack of bullets hit the bottom of the die to pop one out the other end.

Now I am waiting on Hornady to get a 223 bullet feeder die going as I don't like setting bullets on cases after loading with it.

Shipping was fast from this company but the packing Tape used to secure the tubes in the box was a pain to get off the tubes. Sticky nasty mess that took WD 40 and a lot of rubbing and cussing to get off. I was not impressed at all but once I got it cleaned off and set up all is well.

Muddydogs
December 6, 2011, 10:27 AM
I find that I can load the tubes very fast. Grab a handful of bullets and poke them in the tubes. It has increased my speed quite a lot and I don't feel like I need a brass feeder because all I do is feed brass and pull the handle. Left hand feeds brass and my right never leaves the press handle. This also gives me more time to watch the powder charge and other press functions as I am not worried about getting the bullet on the case. For small test batches I will just feed a few bullets into the die alone.

It would be nice to be able to fill bullet tubes like I fill primer tubes but not quite sure if Lee makes a bullet tray like their primer tray big enough to handle 100 bullets but then again if I guy is going to do this he might as well just get the full bullet feeder assembly.

Anyway to each there own but for the little money invested in the bullet feeder I think it works great and is a real time saver.

hAkron
December 8, 2011, 11:22 PM
I bought a 9mm bullet feeder die today. Went on the LNT website and orded 2 of each size up to 1/2" less than $19 to my door for the tubes.

twohightech
January 1, 2012, 11:36 PM
For the ones the have buffed the in side out to load cast bullets can you go back to FMJ? Is it still holding up good? I ordered a brass feeder for the LNL last night and had a $50 off deal so i got 9mm and .45acp dies with the order.

Jake Munch
March 14, 2012, 10:21 AM
How do you keep the bullets from sliding right through your feeder die. Every time I set the tube on top of the feeder die and pull my pin I end up emptying out the tube of all my bullets. I cannot seem to stem the flow. I load up approx 50 185g hornady XTPs? Is this too many or do I just not have my die set up correctly?

CHALK22
March 14, 2012, 12:12 PM
Check the instructions that came with the bullet feeder. I had the opposite problem, mine wouldn't feed at all, and messed up cases. Just a little tweaking and you will be on your way. Trust me, it is worth it.

Jake Munch
March 14, 2012, 02:32 PM
CHALK22,

Unfortunatly my feeder die did not come with instructions. I have the upper adjustment set so that the two collets just barely slide back and forth. The bottom protion is adjusted to the point that the die touches the shell plate. I am using the L n L PTX die in my powder measure. Do you think this could be an issue of too much belling on the 45 case mouth?

Blue68f100
March 14, 2012, 05:34 PM
If not set right, Yes. You may need to back it out to expand less. The proper way to adj these is first use the die body to get proper expansion. Then you set the PTX Stop to limit it from additional travel. I normally set these up with about 1/16 clearance on the dispenser casting. Depending on your bullets you may not need any flaring at the mouth. Some bullets have a radius on the bottom making them easy to start. So all the expander is doing is expanding but not to the extent it flares it. Without the PTX stop set to limit travel you will fail the long vertical linkage arm tying to the base unit under the knurled bolt.

I hope this made since.

Then you have to setup the feed die to work with your neck tension.

Muddydogs
March 15, 2012, 09:38 AM
CHALK22,

Unfortunatly my feeder die did not come with instructions. I have the upper adjustment set so that the two collets just barely slide back and forth. The bottom protion is adjusted to the point that the die touches the shell plate. I am using the L n L PTX die in my powder measure. Do you think this could be an issue of too much belling on the 45 case mouth?

You do not set the die till it touches the shell plate. You set the die until it touches a flaired case in the shell holder. Here are the directions, check out page 8 and 9. http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/manuals-current/metalic-reloading/LNL-Bullet-Feeder-inst-manual.pdf

The right amount of belling is just enough that a bullet will set upright in the case mouth and the case will trip the bullet feed die collets.

PapaGeno21
March 15, 2012, 02:04 PM
Well I ordered tubing and also the 38/357 die. I bought the 7/16" and 1/2" that way I can use the 1/2" to couple some 7/16" together to reach my ceiling where I will have an eyelet support. Should be a fun little project on the cheap. I already built a DIY case feeder so if this bullet feeder also works all I will have to do is pull the handle!

CHALK22
March 15, 2012, 02:44 PM
Sounds like I got beat to it.
http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/manuals-current/metalic-reloading/LNL-Bullet-Feeder-inst-manual.pdf

Jake Munch
March 15, 2012, 03:11 PM
Sorry all,

I did not think to look in the bullet feeder manual. I will try this weekend. Thank you. Hope it works and then I will get the same set up for the 9mm.

AlliedArmory
September 24, 2012, 08:17 AM
Does anyone know if Hornady ever came out with the rifle bullet feed dies yet?

GW Staar
September 25, 2012, 08:51 PM
Not a trace. I think they figured out it was harder than they thought!

BTW, I "borrowed" your clipped tubes idea for my Pro 2000 case feeder, and I borrowed the shaker collator idea from Lee, and my case feeder is working great.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/379948_RCBS_Pro_2000_Case_Feeder_Update___Feeding_the_Feeder__Video_and_Picture_how_to_.html Thanks for the idea....again.:)

AlliedArmory
September 28, 2012, 01:42 AM
That's pretty sweet. I was going to try and use the Lee shaker case feeder for the Hornady, but the linkage below is the hard part. Never got around to trying it.

GW Staar
September 28, 2012, 02:00 PM
That's pretty sweet. I was going to try and use the Lee shaker case feeder for the Hornady, but the linkage below is the hard part. Never got around to trying it.

That's true for a Hornady AP, or a Dillon for that matter....good presses but more complicated....too many moving parts, and that makes them harder to modify, harder to keep synced. You may have noticed that my case feeder does not even move up and down with the ram. Staying put makes it easy to feed cases to it.

I actually didn't buy the Lee shaker, because it can't do rifle cases or the little shorties like 9mm pistol. So I modified the idea with the long 3' tubes, an easy way to reduce the four holes for 9mm and of course a conversion part that makes loading rifle bottle necks like .223 and .308 a breeze. I started a thread yesterday here with a video of the working result, if you care to peek.:) A many-pictured "how-I-built-it" is in Arfcom. As usual, not much interest in anything feeder-wise here. Your $28....thread was a hit....I wonder if it had anything to do with the $28?;):D

jmorris
September 29, 2012, 06:17 PM
Not a trace. I think they figured out it was harder than they thought! The KISS is pretty simple but not so simple I tried to save $125. It's just plastic and a little spring steel for the feeder part but the "conversion" includes the collator wheel, drop tube and die itself. Not shabby for that kind of money.

GW Staar
September 29, 2012, 08:56 PM
The KISS is pretty simple but not so simple I tried to save $125. It's just plastic and a little spring steel for the feeder part but the "conversion" includes the collator wheel, drop tube and die itself. Not shabby for that kind of money.

Very true jmorris. The design is even better today. I haven't given up. Will probably build a case collator this winter....maybe a bullet collator next spring....just because it's cool.

AlliedArmory
February 3, 2013, 03:45 AM
Just picked up a Dillon XL650 and I guess it's time to get this setup on there for 45acp!

psychbiker
April 5, 2014, 03:32 AM
Sorry to bump an old thread but need a little help here.

I'm using 147gr .356 9mm Moly Coated bullets. These would not drop through the Hornady Die.

I came across the youtube vid regarding polishing the collets for lead bullets. Went to borrow my dads dremel and had to do the polishing.

NOW with the collet out of the die, it drops freely through collett A. Is this right? I fear that too much got polished and now I'm hosed.

I tried turning the die more into the press but noticed the cases getting nicked on the top. I tried adding more flare on the case (using a powder funnels). No luck. I turned the top knob on the die such small increments and it would do nothing or drop all bullets at once.

GW Staar
April 5, 2014, 12:08 PM
I'm not sure what or how much you polished. I only use plated or jacketed bullets so I never really examined the YouTube video closely where the guy was trying to make it work for lead. A picture or two might help. Collet A? is that the top tube?

This whole thread started because of a thread I did on AR15.com reviewing Hornady's Bullet Feeder. AlliedArmory got the bright idea to just use the inexpensive bullet dies and build a tube feeder.

I suggest you go to the original thread (http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/330605_.html)....scroll down to the picture review, on past the collator pictures, to where I start analyzing the bullet feed die. I've slept a few nights since then, but I analyzed the workings pretty close. Maybe you will find a clue or an answer to your problem there. If you have a question after studying those pictures, feel free to post here or p.m. me. I'll help if I can.

One of the picture captions stated, "The upper collet HAS to pass bullets freely until its fingers are closed by the collet under it." Maybe that helps you.

Famousfamas
April 6, 2014, 09:19 PM
Psychbiker,
Sorry to read about your troubles. I too went through the trouble of polishing the collets but I was very lucky. It worked perfectly. I am now using the Hornady bullet feeder for lead bullets. I did buy a second feeder die just for that purpose, knowing that I could no longer go back and use it for jacketed bullets.
While polishing the A collet I was wondering what could be done if I went too far as it seems you have gone yourself. Maybe wrapping some aluminum foil around that collet so that it's walls are tightened inside the die. The hardest part would be to drop the collet into the die without crumpling the foil. Maybe some lube would help.
I'll try this myself in the next couple of days just as an exercise. I'll post a note if it works.
Unfortunately this would be a bandaid fix and you might have to call Hornady.
Good luck.

psychbiker
April 6, 2014, 10:16 PM
Here's a pic of my Collet A. This is the first collet to go into the die. The "355 A" faces up with the flared end to be clear. Collet B with its radiused end rests inside the flared part of Collet A, right?

That said, collet B did not need any polishing. The bullet dropped freely. What got polished was the inside here of Collet A as you can see. From about the top of the circle down about 1/4". A 147gr now drops freely through collet A when not in the die. I can get a bullet to stop in collet B if I screw down the top of the die enough. I can get a bullet to stop in Collet A with less turning of the top of the die.

BUT I cant get it to consistently drop onto a case. It will drop 5 bullets but not a single one.

I'm not sure if too much got polished from the inside of Collet A OR if its a matter of bending either collet and/or tinkering with pressure from the top kob of the die. Thats where I need help on.

Thanks again for the help.

http://i.imgur.com/tzMaFHql.jpg

Famousfamas
April 6, 2014, 10:29 PM
From what I understand, you took too much metal out of collet A. The Hornady instructions are pretty clear about the adjustment necessary as the 2 collets need a bit of play, which you can hear when you shake the die so don't mess with that. Raising the whole die up or down will not help. You need to bring the collet A back to the point where once in position in the die it will barely hold the bullet. At this point if it was I who was in this position I would first try the aluminum foil around the collet, then if that doesn't work give it a gentle squeeze to the collet A with pliers. Leave a bullet inside while squeezing so you don't over do it and it will be easier to keep the inside round. At your own risk! If that doesn't work call Hornady and see if they can give/sell you a collet. Save the one you have if you ever need to use it for lead bullets as it might still be good for that.

Famousfamas
April 6, 2014, 10:36 PM
I just looked at my own feeder die and if you decide to squeeze the collet A back I think the the most even and precise way would be with a small hose clamp. A little bit at a time though. Be patient and try to tighten maybe a 1/4 turn then check if it will hold a bullet then go further if it doesn't. Little steps.

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