[techrestore]

What products should I use on a 1911 style gun?

I received my handgun in a pretty dirty stage, and want to restore. Are there specific instructions already on the web for performance restoration techniques.

What i am looking for is a guide that says to use xyz lube on the slide. Use xyz oil on barrel etc.

My brother-in-law mentioned that there are new slide lubes that are 'lithium' based products. Is he mistaken on the chemical composite?

Thanks!

[Will Fennell]

I've tried several multi-step wonderlubes.....and I have come back to FP10 for nearly all of my firearms lubrication needs. Works well as a general cleaner also!

www.fp10.com

BTW, although George Fennell is a kewl guy, and the owner of FP10, there is no relation[that we can find] between the "northern lubrication Fennell's", and the "Southern Cutlery Fennell's".

We may adopt him though:p

[jpthegeek]

I have been using Breakfree CLP and LP for a while now and have zero complaints. CLP for cleaning and finish wipe down and the LP for high wear areas.

In fact, its the only thing I have ever put on my new 1911.

jpthegeek

[bountyhunter]

Everybody and his dog have a different opinion about the best cleaning and lubing products. the general concensus I've seen is that if you want a "CLP", where only one product is used for all, FP-10 is by far the best overall.

If you want to maximize lubrication and minimize wear, IMO the best results come from mixing FP-10 or Militec into a good grease like Slide Glide or Rig +p.

[Sean Smith]

FP-10 for pretty much everything. Grease is not necessary, or necessarily desireable.

[Werewolf]

CLP works fine for almost all purposes - both cleaning and lubricating.

However, I do use a good quality grease on auto slide rails especially stainless steel ones (I've both heard and read that stainless may gall - though I've never experienced that myself). I apply the grease with either a cotton swab, broken toothpick or finger depending on where I'm applying it.

On my CZ-75B I also use grease on the part of the barrel that contacts the bushing. I put a small amount on my index finger and then smear it over the barrel until there is a thin even coat. I repeat the process for the inside of the bushing. This works better than CLP which seems to disappear (and/or get very thin) after a while. For whatever reason CLP just doesn't want to adhere to the stainless barrel in my CZ - the grease is still there even after a 500 round session. CLP adheres and hangs around just fine on a non-stainless barrel but just doesn't adhere on a stainless one - go figure. Works for me - YMMV.

[Coot]

I've recently switched from CLP to Ballistol- it's great stuff: spray it everywhere, let it sit, and wipe off. Very good at leaving the firearm with a nice, protective coating.

[sm]

I use a quality gun oil , I don't use grease.

I rocked along for too many years with no problems using quality gun oils. Kept getting all these "mouse milk" products in shooters kits , gifts and such. Played the 'lube game', and went back to what always worked before. Personally refuse to use the mouse milks and especially some that market the way they do.

I have my preferences.

[Brigrat]

How about mobile 1???

see conversation on this topic below:

http://pub57.ezboard.com/fammolabforumfrm10.showMessage?topicID=352.topic

I don't use it yet, but I am seriously considering it. For the cost, if it really is similar, why the heck not?

[P95Carry]

Have used CLP for ages and still do but ..... since having tried Militech ... feel that that may be the ideal for auto slides.

If as is promoted ... the substance does ''embed'' itself at the micro-structure level ... then a very small amount will do ... any surplus being wiped off.

[Pheonix]

I use Militec-1 on the insides and FP-10 on the outsides

[PO2Hammer]

I live and shoot in a very cold climate (MN), so lubes are very imortant to me. White lithium grease has proven to be an exellent lube for handguns with full rails-1911, SIG etc. I use Victor white lithium grease (local hardware store brand) on all my rails, bushings, barrels and hood lock up. FP-10 (or CLP) on trigger assemblies (because it penetrates better). Wilson makes a lithium grease that they highly recomend(of course!) for 1911's. Lithium will stay put on parts that 'travel' like the rails etc.. Lithium also does not thicken with powder residue, in fact any part that has it will wipe clean without solvents. My P226, Ruger carbine, M-1a have all run flawlessly in cold weather since I switched to lithium. My P226 would jam in very cold weather with petrolium oils. Petrolium oils will thicken with powder residue.

[tc300mag1]

I use fp-10 on mine and am trying the miltech grease on the rails... Rig grease is also pretty good i prefer grease on rails over oil for carry as it dont run down and off the rails

[wingman]

another vote for fp-10.:)

[19112XS]

FP-10 for cleaning and lube. Cleans great, really slicks 'em up, and makes 'em look all shiney. You might go to www.1911forum.com and read some of the posts by Firepower for an education on lubrication. Good shooting.

[Caliburn]

Google found a similar question on packing.org
http://www.packing.org/news/article.jsp/7293/

It even comes up in a testimonial for Militec
http://www.militec-1.com/MarineTestimonial.html

Seems like it would depend on your own environment. I wouldn't use it on my CCW or a duty weapon in case motor oil does attract more dirt and dust especially in the desert. Or in serious cold weather like PO2Hammer says (it's not usually a problem where I live)

Just my un-educated opinion, but I'd say motor oil (natural or synthetic) would do in an emergency or for a range or hunting gun that gets cleaned after each outing and then is stored in a clean environment it should be OK. But unless I have no choice I'll use the official lube on a gun that will be taking care of me.

[techrestore]

Thanks all for your input.

I am also trying to find 'techniques' of cleaning/restoring.

Here is a shell of what I was attempting to achieve (please note, I have only cleaned 2 pistols in my life- therefore I am searching for knowledge/advice).

Cleaning:

1. Dissassemble your pistol and do a rough wipedown of all components using a soft cotton rag.

2. Start on the barrel and use a cleaning kit (found at your local gunshop) beggining with a patch soaked in solvent. --Be sure to run the patch thru once and pull patch off without pulling back thru barrel. This will eliminate pulling a large amount of 'debris' back into barrel after first pass.

3. Repeat step 2, several times if necessary. Objective is that patch is not satured with debris after running thru barrel.

4. Use a wire brush on your cleaning rod, and dip in solvent. Pass the wire brush thru barrel allowing the cleaning rod to spin as necessary. Continue this step multiple times.

5. Repeast step #2

6. After patch shows no sign of debris, follow up with a few dry patches.

7. Use a cotton buffer (dont know what this is actually called) and run thru barrel one last time.

*After a few passes of the cleaning rod, be sure to inspect barrel for any visible debris. The rifiling should be smooth and shiny.

1911 Oil Techiniques- Using FP-10

1.) Be sure to oil the barrel outside lighly since it has contact with the frame.

2.) any moving parts attached to the barrel should be cleaned with solvent and then lightly oiled.

3.) Oil the slide at ANY point that it meets the frame. ON a 1911 style, it should meet the frame on the sides and the lip of the slide.

4.) Oil the frame where the slide rests.

* wipe of any excess oil

OK: Those are the steps that I did last night. Can we work on the steps above and make a 'standard' for cleaning/oiling a 1911. I know there has to be many things missed. I have no clue on what else to oil (clip, trigger etc.) I can edit the above with your suggestions, and repost to a new Topic so other newbies can benefit.

Thanks in Advance

[cratz2]

BreakFree CLP works in a pinch, but FP-10 is always my first choice.

[Cacique500]

Grab yourself a bore snake. You can pretty much skip numbers 1-7. Squirt a little break-free down the barrel (or on the bore snake) and run it through the barrel a couple of times. It'll be the cleanest that barrel has ever been.

I own one snake for each of the calibers I have - wouldn't clean a gun w/o them.

[Ky Larry]

I use RemOil or CLP on my Kimber insides and MilTec-1 grease on the rails. I wipe down the gun with a silicone cloth every day. My Kimber is my everyday CCW so it gets field stripped every week and after firing.

[lycanthrope]

FP-10 on everything.

[Pheonix]

I have a question on FP-10. The new formula is supose to have a hint of a cinnimon smell. I bought several bottles of the alleged new formula (some in the new bottle and some in the old bottle) They just smell like oil to me. Does your smell like cinnimon?

[lycanthrope]

Mine definately smells like cinnamon. The old formula smelled like it too.

Where'd you get yours?

[tc300mag1]

Mine has a slight cinnimon smell but its not super strong

[Pheonix]

I bought it about a year ago, I believe directly from FP-10.com

[lycanthrope]

Try having someone else smell it. It's meant as a cover scent for hunters and not to be overpowering.

[Berg01]

I like FP-10 as a general-purpose CLP, but I also like Militec (oil & grease).

[Brigrat]

If chemical analysis shows that most sythetic gun lubricants are identical in nature to Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil, then why would you worry about it attracting more dust than synthetic gun lubricants. I have done more research, and it seems to be true. Most synthetics, including Militec are chemically very close to Mobil 1. I am convinced, I will report back on my findings soon.

[silent one]

Brigrat,
I totally agree with you. I have been using Mobil 1 for years. I also have my own concoction consisting of Slick 50 engine additive and Mobil 1. I mix 25% Slick 50 with 75% Mobil 1 in a plastic squeeze bottle. when I clean my weapons I use Hoppes cleaner to remove the heavy crud. Then the weapon gets washed down with automotive brake clean sprayed on it. Spraying gets into all those hard to get areas. I do this over a large coffee can to catch the brake clean. [When I clean my weapons I always field strip them] then I blow dry the weapon with compressed air. If you don't have access to compressed air, you can wait a few minutes and wipe down with a clean cloth. The brake clean will evaporate in a short time.
Now comes the lubing. First, I use a Q tip with straight slick 50 and run it along the slide and frame rails. Slick 50 is teflon based, and is a great lubricant. The rest of the weapon gets the mixed oil put on it.
Some people might say it costs too much for the oil and slick 50. I have been using the same batch for at least 5 years and there's still enough for another 5. Total cost is around $25.00. All I can say is, it works for me. I do a lot of shooting, and have never had a weapon break. I also shoot in all kinds of weather and the lube works great.
Good luck, and be safe.


SILENT ONE

[Waitone]

Only thing I can add is to finish off a cleaning session by hosing down the hardware with brake cleaner (enviro friendly formula) and let it dry. You are now officially down to bare metal.

Then lube up. I personally prefer gun grease, specifically Tetra grease. Seems to stay effective much longer than oils.

[Range Ninja]

I would definitely recommend Tetra grease. I normally use BreakFree to clean my guns and just recently started using Tetra grease. I like the fact that even after a couple of shooting sessions the Tetra doesn't seem to break down much or evaporate with a few weeks of storage.

[mmay1]

Another vote here for FP-10. While it may be unnecessary, I also use Tetra grease on the rails and barrel lugs after wiping down the FP-10. Everything is nice and slick and stays put. I have used the other Tetra products, as well as Militec oil and grease, but the FP-10 is less expensive and seems to keep my pistols cleaner.

[Valkman]

I use FP-10 now, exclusively. I was using Militec grease and oil until I saw complaints about guns rusting weeks after using it. If you like Militec, check out this test - you're better off using WD-40!

4 Product Corrosion Test (http://www.fp10.com/4producttest.htm)

[P95Carry]

I'm no expert on tribology at all ... but do not think necessarily that the ability to lubricate has to, perforce, equate to corrosion protection.

I would not consider using Militec for other than lube of, say .. slide rails ... and some inernals ... all other protection I would consign to things like CLP, RIG, Boeshield etc.

Things like viscocity and ''wetting'' ability also have effects when it comes to persistence/endurance of a corrosion protection film .. and in Boeshield's case .. then a sorta wax film.

As for WD40 ..... well, obviously some sorrosion protection but as for any lube' ability .... it doesn't come near my guns!:p

[Mil Novecientos Once]

I use el cheapo white lithium grease on the rails and a ligth film of FP-10 on everything else. Been doing that since I got my 1911 on November 2002, no problems whatsoever.

[Arc Angel]

:rolleyes: OK, let me be the dissenting voice in this thread. I've used Hoppe's #9 for many years. It stinks! It contains ammonia and petroleum distillates. I, very much, doubt that prolonged exposure to this stuff could be good for you. Several days ago I spent an entire afternoon cleaning a number of guns with Hoppe's #9; by evening, I was starting to feel dizzy from the stench; and, yes, I had a window open for ventilation - so what! On the plus side, Hoppe's cleans out old cruded-up oil very well; it, also, cuts into powder fouling, and leading reasonably well. (minimal brushing) Nonetheless, I have to believe that there's got to be a better way.

Over the past 10 years I've, also, used BreakFree CLP. It cleans reasonably well; but, I'm not convinced about how well it lubricates. There's always a thick white paste, left, at the bottom of the bottle. (Must be the PTFE lubricant that should have been deposited on the gun!) This stuff, also, contains petroleum distillates; and, I suspect, in the final analysis is no better at what it does than Hoppe's. (Just doesn't stink as much.)

So, 'What' to use? Well, for an oil I have discovered IOSSO gun oil. No petroleum distillates, and no ammonia. This oil is very fine in texture and penetrates extremely well. I have been using it in combination with IOSSO bore cleaner paste. So far, I've only used these products on three guns - All have, now, fired several hundred rounds and cleaned up easily afterward. I intend to continue using IOSSO gun oil; it's unquestionably a superior gun oil. I may, or may not continue using the bore cleaning paste. It works very well; but, actually, it is no better than, 'Lead Wipe' gun rags which I cut into patches and wrap around a bore brush in order to get my barrels really clean. (Time will tell; right now I need more experience with the bore cleaner.)

I'm suspicious of all these other, 'military' type oils and lubes. Too much of the advertising seems like Madison Avenue hype to me. Oh, yeah, I've started wearing vinyl gloves whenever I clean my firearms. Reason? Because petroleum distillates transmit lead and cleaning solvents through the skin; consequently, I try to limit my exposure to these harsh, even questionable, chemicals. What more can I say: 'Cleaning seems to be the downside of shooting!' ;)

[Tropical Z]

Head down to Wal-Mart and get the black and red can of Super Tech lithium based grease and a quart of FULL synthetic 5w30 motor oil.Youll have all the lubing you could possibly use for years for about $5.00!

[WalkerTexasRanger]

I prefer Kroil as an oil. Shooters Chioice makes great grease and powder solvent. Also Butches Bore Shine, good stuff. Hoppes #9 works well also.

I have a multitude of cleaning stuff and will always try something new. Recently have tried Montana Extreme products and think they are all decent.

[WalkerTexasRanger]

I prefer Kroil as an oil. Shooters Chioice makes great grease and powder solvent. Also Butches Bore Shine, good stuff. Hoppes #9 works well also.

I have a multitude of cleaning stuff and will always try something new. Recently have tried Montana Extreme products and think they are all decent.