Browning Safari Grade 30.06


October 3, 2011, 03:01 PM
Just picked up a Browning Safari Grade Bolt action in 30.06 and was looking for additional information on it to include approximate value, date of manufacture, and people's experiences in terms of accuracy? The stock is nearly perfect and the blueing is in blemish free except for a couple of spots. The bolt does have some corrosion on it which seems to be commone when looking at pics on Gunbroker. Thanks in advance!

If you enjoyed reading about "Browning Safari Grade 30.06" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
El Mariachi
October 3, 2011, 03:16 PM
Peek-churs, we need peek-churs........

Jonny V
October 3, 2011, 03:20 PM
Pull the rifle out of the stock and make sure there is no corrosion under there. Some of the stocks were cured with salt water, and if so, there could be rust. Other than that, it's a commercial FN Mauser, (owned by Browning, no thumb cutout or stripper clip guide), and one hell of a rifle. There should be a fair amount of gold inlayed engraving on the action, trigger guard, and magazine floorplate.

As with all commercial Mausers from that era, accuracy should equal or exceed what you can expect from currently manufactured rifles.

Prices can go well over $1000 for showroom condition models. The Safari Grade was actually the lowest grade of this rifle. Much more money can be had for one of the High Grade rifles. If the stock has been replaced with another, that would detract from value significantly. Originally, it came with a very nice monte carlo style walnut stock. These guns were made during the 50's and 60's. Contacting Browning with the serial number would probably get you more detailed information.

October 3, 2011, 03:56 PM
Okay, just pulled it out of the stock and sad to say its one from the days of the salt cured stocks. A fair amount of corrossion underneath but nothing to affect functionality. Seems to all be on the surface, but its pretty nasty. I guess I'll make it a definite woods gun now which is no problem since I only paid $100 for it. Now to scope it and work up some loads to see what she'll do.

Jonny V
October 3, 2011, 04:23 PM
Wahoo, scrub the stock (gently) with Murphy oil soap. Don't soak it, but use a dmp/wet rag to do the job. You might be able to save it. The metal can be worked over with the old brass brush and hoppes/clp treatment.

Don't give up on her, she's going to amaze you when you start shooting. She needs love and lots of elbow grease.......:)

October 3, 2011, 04:39 PM
What value would you put on her as pictured?

October 3, 2011, 04:42 PM
There is no saving a saltwood stock.
It is what it is, and will always be.

The best you can do is slow it down some with epoxy sealer or something.
I just got done repairing a totally eaten trigger guard on a friends newly acquired Browning XXII Auto a while back.


Jonny V
October 3, 2011, 05:26 PM
what about a full bedding job?

October 3, 2011, 05:32 PM
Yes, that would probably help a lot if you ground out wood everywhere and replaced it with epoxy bedding.


Jonny V
October 3, 2011, 05:37 PM
OK, so I just read the article from the guy who worked at Browning. On a positive note, he did say that restoring a Safari Grade would only run around $800 or so........I hate seeing classic Mausers meet this kind of fate, but I guess you can't save them all........

October 3, 2011, 07:16 PM
I think that's a case for a very nice woods rifle. The creeping salt corrosion is just too much to deal with. Since the wood is a big part of character of the gun, I doubt that it's going to be replaced?

But, I can see pulling the iron bits and sending them out for a modern high tech coating like cerakote or gun-coat. The pitted areas can be sand blasted and filled with a thin coat of JB Weld (good to 500* so it will easily live through the curing process). Once dressed and coated with dark blue or black gloss, she'll be beautiful again and it won't care about the salt wood (or weather) :)

I'd also likely soak the stock with penetrating epoxy and bed the action once the metal refinish was complete. Then you'd have a very traditional looking rifle with the ability to go hunting in nasty conditions :)

October 3, 2011, 07:26 PM
If you only have $100 in it I'd just shoot it.

El Mariachi
October 3, 2011, 07:26 PM
Regardless how this story plays's still a bitchin firearm.


October 3, 2011, 08:36 PM
If you only have $100 in .....That is part of what makes this an ideal candidate for a factory refurb. Fully glass bed the stock and keep a heavy coating of car wax on the metal parts. Nine hundred dollars is a decent price for a like new Safari grade Browning IMHO.

Jonny V
October 3, 2011, 08:43 PM
That's what I think too. He's not in it deep. Just giving up and making it a "woods gun" is like shooting Old Yeller........

This rife has far more to give.

October 11, 2011, 04:14 PM
Gonna stick a scope on it and see how it shoots this weekend.

October 11, 2011, 05:23 PM
I was not implying that a "woods rifle" is a beater, far from it. I know it's a very nice rifle, but the finish and the wood need to last married to each other for decades. How are you going to do that with traditional finishes?

October 11, 2011, 07:19 PM
Dump the stock and get a new one there is no reason to waste time or money on a salt cured stock. There looks like there is a fair amount of surface corrosion on the gun. Clean up the metal and be happy. The gun has no collector value and that's why you got it for $100. No one is looking for a salt cured Browning anything and looking at that gun you've found the reason why. They are looking to avoid them.

As others have said, all is not lost, if the barrel and action are good you got a great deal on a great woods gun with a little money and a little work.

October 17, 2011, 10:12 AM
Took her out to the range Friday and she's a shooter! decided to make a nice hunting rifle out of her. Spoke to a buddy of mine who can Cerakote it for me so I will do that at some time really soon. Will update with pics once completed.

October 17, 2011, 08:34 PM
I've had some luck sand blasting rough areas and skim coating with JB Weld. Then block sanding them flat to the base steel. I over coat with KG Gun Kote, but Cera Kote will work as well, if not better. Once the base is flat and true, the CK will make her real pretty again and last through most anything you will throw at it. JB Weld is good to 500*, so the curing temp won't bother it a bit. Neither will barrel heat.

Pics when all done?

If you enjoyed reading about "Browning Safari Grade 30.06" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!