8mm Mauser


October 21, 2011, 11:16 PM
Looking for a cheap 8mm Mauser relaoding kit. Was looking at the Lee Classic relaading kit on cabelas but they don't seem to have one for 8mm.

Can I get some reccomendations for a cheap, but complete, reloading kit for 8mm Mauser please?
Would like to spend under 50$.

Needs to be capable of priming/remove primer/ seat bullet, crimp case to bullet, etc.

Wanting to load my own full-power hunting/practice rounds for my M48.

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October 21, 2011, 11:27 PM
Good luck.

Press kits start at $98. Dies at $23.

October 21, 2011, 11:50 PM
I know 50 bucks is a little low, dies run approx $25.00 and you can get a Lee hand press for approx $35.00. Stay away from smart reloader.

This is about as close as you can get for new products, might keep an eye out for used at gun showes.

I see you can get a little better deal at Natchezz but then the shipping is higher. I sure wish they'd offer USPS.

October 22, 2011, 01:20 AM
thanks for the suggestions. Does anyone reload for this cartridge?
What do you suggest for powder and what charges do you use?

October 22, 2011, 02:25 AM
I reload 8MM. Depending on what I am shooting my loads vary.

For hot loads and long range I'm shooting 125 grain spitzer soft tips with 53 grains of IMR4895. For softer recoil shorter range loads I shoot 13 grains of Red-Dot on 175 grain lead.

In fact I am sitting here right now prepping a handful of 8MM cases. :D

October 22, 2011, 02:48 AM
Twmaster, can you reccomend a good load data book for 8mm Mauser?

October 22, 2011, 03:04 AM
The Lyman and Lee books are both good. (I have these)

There are likely other good books from Hornady, Speer etc.

Lord Kimbote
October 22, 2011, 03:06 AM
The Hornady manual has 5 or so loads, but Midway or Cabelas sells a $6 book specific to 8mm. For loads, I like Varget with PVRI bullets: cheap and fairly accurate.

October 22, 2011, 02:30 PM
I can't find the load specific book for 8mm on cabelas, I'll try midway. I've noticed some of their(cabelas) relaoding books are over-priced. Their ABC's of reloading for almost 30$ I can find on amazon for less than 20$.

Here's the press I decided on though, especially if I find a lower price on it elsewhere-

Have to buy dies and powder measure sepperately, but that's ok. I want to eventualy load for the 8mm, .308, and .45lc and this one seems like it should fit the bill.
When I bought the mauser, it seemed surplus ammo was in abundance everywhere. Now even the surplus costs too much when i can find it, and I'm even having a hard time finding brass for it. A while back, like last November I think, I had bought a box of PRVI ammo and eneded up giving all of the brass to an elederly gentleman at the range. He was happier than pigs in mud and now I know why. 8mm mauser brass doesn't seem to be in abundance, and it still costs a left arm when I can find it.

I think I want a load that can push the 180 Sierra GameKing at around 2600FPS. That's just a guess off the top of my head. Not gonna load anything untill I read a manual for this specific cartridge.

October 22, 2011, 02:57 PM

Some advice here. I'm not wealthy. I was going to go the route you are looking at. Don't. For $97 + Shipping you can buy a compete reloading setup less dies. (I bought that kit. It was $114 to my door)

Top of this page:


Dies are $23 from the same dealer.

Seriously, this is a hard to beat complete setup that will last you decades.

If you insist on going the cheap painful route check out the price on that Lee pocket press on the bottom of this page. It's $20 less than Cabella's


October 22, 2011, 03:02 PM
And a quick note about brass.... You can easily make 8x57 brass from easy to get .30-06 brass. the case on the left was .30-06, the case on the right is Yugo Surplus 8MM.


I formed that brass in the press I link to in my previous post. And yes, I'd be giddy as a little girl if somebody handed me a box of once fired Prvi brass....

October 22, 2011, 03:32 PM
I would really recommend you buy a Lyman #49 reloading manual rather then just a caliber specific "Load Book".

There is much valuable information to be found in a good reloading manual that never saw print in the Load Book type manuals.


October 22, 2011, 03:38 PM
+1 on that suggestion. I have the Lyman #48 and it's very very good. Also loads of useful info for the new reloader.

October 22, 2011, 05:49 PM
Look at Wideners.com & see if they have the "Lee Anniversary Kit" for like $38 or so. You get a single-stage bench-mountable press, PLUS a Lee Reloading Manual which had ALL KINDS of reloading data for lotsa cartridges that I didn't even know existed. It's a VERY comprehensive. It also has sections on cast bullets and some "how to" stuff kinda "hidden" among other sections.

Lee Dies in the red plastic container are probably your best buy. They come WITH a shell holder, some limited loading data, and a powder scoop. There are better dies in the world, but they're easily twice as expensive, and they're NOT twice as good.

There's a Lee Priming product (technical name evades me at the moment)) that screws into the top of the loading press, where the reloading dies usually go. It is fairly inexpensive, tough as nails, and a very precise method of priming cases. The downside is that it can be frustratingly slow. If memory serves, this item uses the shell holder that came with your dies.
As soon as you get extra $$, you'll want one of the "hand primers" that Lee or Lyman makes. For the love of HEAVEN, get the one that uses the shell holder, used in your reloading press. ONE of these manufacturers makes a hand-primer that uses its own special kind of shell holder, and they're a mess to keep track of. Avoid that type.

Measuring the powder charge is your next major hurdle. I don't see a way around a good electronic scale or a beam-balance type scale. The electronic ones are faster but more expensive. I haven't used any of them enough to advance an opinion on what's good vs. useless, but BOTH varieties exist on the market. Ask around & choose carefully.
Almost everyone makes good balance-type scales (I don't know of any really BAD ones out there). These are perfectly adequate for measuring your charge weights to within 1/10 grain, and you don't REALLY want to split hairs any finer than that, for now.

METERING the powder charge can be done with either an adjustable powder charge thrower, or a set of volumetrically calibrated powder scoops. The former are @ the same price as one or two new reloading die sets from someone other than Lee. These charge cases rapidly, and are more than acceptably precise. But the combination of these attributes is expensive.
Lee Precision sells a set of 10 or 12 powder scoops, with a sliding-card index of how much of a particular powder each scoop throws. The last time I looked, the whole thing was less than $20. With a little practice, a reloader can charge cases with the scoops as fast as with the charge thrower and with the same accuracy(some believe the charge weights are MORE precise than from a charge thrower). The disadvantage is that there is less flexibility in charge weights. If one starts at a charge weight of 47.0 grains, and wishes to change it by 0.1 grains, there may or may NOT be a scoop or combination of scoops to deliver the new charge weight. Even so, metering powder in this way beats the heck outta NOT reloading your own. Four or five boxes of factory 8x57 Mauser Ammo will probably buy a very good powder charge thrower. Forster makes the best one I've ever used, but they are quite expensive. If you're not planning to shoot in match competition, it'd difficult to justify the cost. I have the most experience with RCBS and Hornady/Pacific charge throwers, and they're absolutely fine for most purposes. I bought and tried one Lee charge thrower, and didn't like it. Since Lee is the champion of volumetric charge metering with scoops, I'm not surprised that not much trouble was spent on charge throwers that depend on a scale to keep them honest.

Almost any Rifle powder that works in the .308 will work in the 8x57. If I could choose only one powder for all rifle calibers, I'd want Hodgdon H4895 or IMR 4895. It is as versatile in rifles as Hercules (Alliant) Unique is in pistols. And works at least adequately (usually much better) in cartridges ranging from .222 Remington to 7mm Remington Mag.
4895 also has another neat advantage. It has a very broad range of charge weights that can be used without concern serious concern for maintaining high charge density (i.e. getting the case as full as possible). If one wishes to make lower power, lighter recoiling loads but maintain the same bullet weight, usable loads can be made by multiplying the charge weight for "full power" loads by 0.60. Thus our example "47.0 grains" charge weight becomes 28.2 grains for the lower-power loads. How much the lighter charge reduces velocity is something pretty specific to the rifle, but don't expect it to be very close to linear. If a 47.0gr/H4895/150gr. Spitzer load chronographs out of your rifle at exactly 2800 f/s, don't expect that the reduced 28.2gr/H4895/150gr. Spitzer load will chronograph out of your rifle at exactly 1680 f/s. It MIGHT, but then again it might NOT. BUT... I would expect that such a reduced load might clock somewhere between 1500 and 1850 f/s. I would also be VERY surprised if the load velocity was less than 1350 f/s or above 2500 f/s.

Okay, it looks like you got "watch-building instructions" when all you REALLY wanted was to know what time it was. But I'd rather provide you with too much information than not enough. You can always ignore what you find (by experimentation) not to apply to your situation.

Best of luck.

October 22, 2011, 08:37 PM
Here's the quick tutorial on forming 8mm Brass from .30-06:

1. Use the expanding/decapping die and run a lubricated .30-06 case into the die until the mouth expands. DO NOT run the brass all the way up the die.

2. Remove the case and use a Lee Case Gauge/Trimmer and chuck the shell holder into a drill. Use the Gauge/Trimmer to remove trim the .30-06 brass to 8mm Mauser length. You will now have a stubby looking .30-06 case.

3. Now, run the stubby case up into the die, going slowly, eventually it will get hard to pull and you will need to exert more than usual force to fully seat the case in the die. You are pushing back the shoulder on the case.

4. Trim the case once more and you are good to go! The first time you fire the case it will sharpen up the case shoulder from a rounded shoulder to a sharp angled shoulder.

October 22, 2011, 09:01 PM
That's a great explanation of the process.

The only warning is be careful if using a Lee full length sizing die.

There is a giant vent hole at the shoulder on Lee's die. If you try and push the shoulder back in one operation it digs up a huge burr. You need to push the neck a little then turn the case, repeat until fully shaped.

Other brands of dies do not have the huge vent hole.

October 22, 2011, 09:15 PM
Twmaster's advice on posts #10 and #13 is right on.

Hot tip, when rcmodel gives advice, take it to the bank.

highlander 5
October 22, 2011, 09:26 PM
You can make 8mm Mauser from 6 mm Rem,257 Roberts or 7 mm Mauser and there's no need to trim as these cases are near the same length as the 8 mauser. All you have to do is neck them up or fire form them in your rifle using a charge of Unique and some type of filler and canning wax to plug the case mouth.

October 22, 2011, 09:42 PM
I like to use the military 30-06 brass to form 8MM. There are no marks on the head other than maker and date, this will not confuse anyone if they should get some of your ammo by mistake and then hurt themselves by putting it into the wrong firearm and trying to fire it.

October 23, 2011, 12:29 AM
You can buy a lee reloading kit with a bench mounted press for what 3-4 boxes of factory 8mm ammo cost. It will last you forever. As for loading 8mm mauser IMR 4895 with 150-170gr hornady's is hard to beat.

Lord Kimbote
October 23, 2011, 12:33 AM
I agree that a full manual is necessary, I mentioned the caliber specific load book only because the Lyman 49 skimps on 8mm load data. The little books are good as supplements to a manual, not as a replacement.

October 23, 2011, 01:23 AM
The Lyman book is good. I shoot 5 reloadable cartridges and the data in the Lyman book is nice. I also have the Lee 'Modern Reloading' book. It has a lot of 8MM data. (Loads of other loads too!) And that book is only $12.48 at www.factorysales.com Right on their front page too.

October 23, 2011, 08:51 PM
After you read a reloading manual and figure out what you need, look at Craig's list and backpage in your area. I have been impressed with the gear and prices I've been able to get that way.

October 24, 2011, 11:01 PM
Twmaster, got the book on order. Must be a hefty book for the shipping charge...

October 24, 2011, 11:34 PM
Lee and RCBS both sell inexpensive bench mounted presses. Unless you need to carry your reloading kit in your back pack or saddle bag, I would not suggest the hand press you selected.

Also, IMR4895 is a great powder for 8mm. It has a wide range of loads and is a very efficient powder. The loads I make are low pressure, basically a glorified 30-30 but with a 32 cal spitzer bullet.

October 25, 2011, 02:22 AM
Unless you need to carry your reloading kit in your back pack or saddle bag,

That's precisely what I'll be doing with it. I go trail bike riding a lot, usually take a back-pack with food, books, or various animal calls and hang out in the forrest. Figured a compact-ish press would be great to take along to use while enjoying nature.

October 25, 2011, 07:11 AM
Sounds like fun but I don't get it. (not that I have to). If you carry the press you need to carry primers, powder, powder measure, bullets and dial calibers (or something). I'd think it on a bike or back packing trip it would be easier to carry a box of 50 or even 100 rounds all ready to go.

Good luck.

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