[Rafterman191]

I have a Lyman tumbler with, I think plain walnut (maybe cob) shell media in it now. I want to get the brass cleaner and polished but what's the most efficient way to do it? I was given this reloading set up by my brother in law and the media came in a unmarked plastic container is why I am not sure what it is. I am sure cleaner brass would give me more consistent results.

[rcmodel]

Flitz is the best polish additive I have ever used.
http://www.flitz.com/p-26-tumblermedia-additive.aspx

Recently, I started using Zilla brand Lizard Litter walnut shell from the pet store for media.
I like it better then the commercial tumbler media's I have used in the past.
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752164

rc

[gennro]

I use Nu finish car polish in corn cob media and it will put a shine on brash after a couple of hours.

[MtnCreek]

Flitz
I didn't know they made a media polish. When I first saw 'flitz', I thought you were talking about the little 2" tube of metal polish.:confused: I'll give that stuff a try. Thanks!

I've been using polish by Barry's and Dillon. They seem to work about the same.

[RandyP]

I use a 50/50 mix of corncob and lizard litter - with a little liquid car polish now and then - used cut-up dryer sheets for the dust.

I don't really think having the brass 'clean and shiny' improves the round's performance i n any measurable fashion. The brass just holds the bullet and powder - the barrel controls the bullet and the powder gives it the push away from the brass. I tumble clean my brass before loading to get any crud off - and usually long enough to make it sort of shiny again. But I can't say I fret much over it.

[jcwit]

I use the liquid auto polish currently Nu-Finish simply because I have so much partial bottles available to use up.

I'm sure Flitz would work fantastic, after all who am I to question rcmodel, he's usually spot on.

I do use Flitz for my other hobby, collecting and refurbishing old double edge razors.

[bds]

For many years I used Dillon and Frankford Arsenal polish with good results.

When reloaders posted NuFinish with good results, I tried various liquid car polish and found NuFinish to do a better job of cleaning the brass surface.

All the car polishes seem to leave residual coating that helps with resing (kinda like case lube) which is a plus for me.

Since I always have NuFinish around the garage, it's what I use now.

[Searcher4851]

Clean, shiny and slick sure make full length rifle case sizing easier.

[bergmen]

I don't really think having the brass 'clean and shiny' improves the round's performance i n any measurable fashion. The brass just holds the bullet and powder - the barrel controls the bullet and the powder gives it the push away from the brass. I tumble clean my brass before loading to get any crud off - and usually long enough to make it sort of shiny again. But I can't say I fret much over it.

The cleaner the brass is, the easier it is on the resizing dies (no matter which caliber).

Dan

[Ret.CWO]

Nu-Finish and corn Cobb or walnut. Clean brass is easier on the dies. I also clean the loaded stuff to get the sizing media off. To each his/her own. But I like it shinny. Nu-Finish works better than anything I've EVER used, and I've tried them all.

[Rafterman191]

Thanks all. What about Brasso? It's something I have now for my drum cymbals :)

ETA: Never mind I see it's ammonia based and bad for brass if you want it to remain pliable.

[Striker Fired]

Stainless pins!!!Messy....yes. works great though.

[jcwit]

Thanks all. What about Brasso? It's something I have now for my drum cymbals

ETA: Never mind I see it's ammonia based and bad for brass if you want it to remain pliable.

If the ammonia is allowed to evaporate there is no harm to using Brasso.

[nojoke]

I use the liquid auto polish currently Nu-Finish simply because I have so much partial bottles available to use up.

I'm sure Flitz would work fantastic, after all who am I to question rcmodel, he's usually spot on.

I do use Flitz for my other hobby, collecting and refurbishing old double edge razors.
restoring WHAT? ....not the blades I hope. :)

[jcwit]

The razor is what one holds in their hand, not the blade.

[Uniquedot]

Wonder what this stuff is? the guy claims brass will look new or better than new in only an hour of tumbling.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180736147321

[Sport45]

The best additive I've found for my ground walnut (lizzard litter) has been a splash of mineral spirits.

[Otto]

Wonder what this stuff is? the guy claims brass will look new or better than new in only an hour of tumbling.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180736147321He refers to it as a powder so I'm guessing it's "jeweler's rouge" aka. "red rouge". Rouge is basically iron oxide (rust) and is mildly abrasive.

[Bush Pilot]

I use 24 grit crushed walnut shell from Harbor Tool and Nu Finish. They may not function any better, they sure do look purdy fresh from the tumbler.

[mdemetz]

Quote:
Wonder what this stuff is? the guy claims brass will look new or better than new in only an hour of tumbling.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180736147321

He refers to it as a powder so I'm guessing it's "jeweler's rouge" aka. "red rouge". Rouge is basically iron oxide (rust) and is mildly abrasive.
Yes, I bought some a couple of years ago and that's all it is.

[Kidslash]

+1 Flitz polish for standard tumbling.

If you want brass that looks brand new then try stainless steel media in a rock tumbler.

[brickeyee]

Jeweler's rouge.

I buy the sticks and just grate a little into the walnut.

[BYJO4]

I have only used Lyman corn cob media for years (nothing added to it). I can clean and polish approx 9000 cases from a 6 lb. container of media (I use 2lb. at a time and change about every 3000 rounds).

[smokey262]

The Flitz additive does an excellent job, but that little bottle is too pricey for continuous usage for my taste.

[heydawg]

I only reload a few hundred every month or two. I don't own a tumbler. I reload for 380. By mistake, I left a few spent cases in my pants one day and ran them through the wash. They came out sparkling clean. Inside, not really. Outside was beautiful.

So now I just plop them 100 or so into an old sock, pin the sock closed, and throw the socks into the wash with some laundry detergent and a bit of Borax. I choose "extra rinse" on my washer and use cold water. No spin cycle. They come out rather nice looking. I usually run an empty rinse cycle through the washer afterwords to wash out any lead residue.

[oldfortyfiveauto]

Nu Finish and corn media. Cheap, simple and lasts.

[BBDartCA]

The longest tumbling discussion on the net here

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1513345&page=1

[fguffey]

For the worst of cases I use vinegar and nothing for a maximum of 15 minutes, then wash, rinse and dry then tumble in corn type media and nothing.

In most matters I apply the ‘leaver policy’ if it works I leaver like I founder.

F. Guffey

[Guy B. Meredith]

I used to use Maguire's Gold Class Metal finish, but that is no longer available. Recently I've been using NuFinish scratch remover. Just make sure that whatever you're trying doesn't smell of ammonia.

By the way, if you want a real deal on quality media check out Granger's 20/40 blast media. I bought a 40 lb sack and will probably not have to buy anything else for a LONG time. It is fine enough that it does not block primer pockets.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ECONOLINE-Blast-Media-2MVR5?Pid=search

[Strykervet]

I only reload a few hundred every month or two. I don't own a tumbler. I reload for 380. By mistake, I left a few spent cases in my pants one day and ran them through the wash. They came out sparkling clean. Inside, not really. Outside was beautiful.

So now I just plop them 100 or so into an old sock, pin the sock closed, and throw the socks into the wash with some laundry detergent and a bit of Borax. I choose "extra rinse" on my washer and use cold water. No spin cycle. They come out rather nice looking. I usually run an empty rinse cycle through the washer afterwords to wash out any lead residue.
If I need them REAL clean, I use hot water and Barkeepers Friend (a powder, abrasive oxy cleaner for cleaning stainless bar equipment, found at grocery stores and certainly at beer brewing and restaurant/cleaning shops). I had some from homebrewing. I put some hard to clean cases in a ziploc bag with this stuff and shake... I may need to soak a while and shake again, but they come out nice.

For tumbling, I just use the Lyman "Turbo Charger" reactivator. I can tell it extends the life of the media, but I don't get "new" looking cases anymore, more of a dull gold/brass color. I don't really care about color as long as the case is clean and good to go though.

I have some walnut, but haven't tried it yet. Would you believe that in ten years of reloading, I haven't tried the walnut and have been using and reactivating the same lot of Lyman Green Corn Cob Media?

I'd like to go ultrasonic, I bet that works the absolute best, but they are going to have to come out with a bigger and cheaper one that isn't junk or made by Harbor Freight before I get one.

[dbarnhart]

+1 on the Granger's 20/40 blast media. $27 delivered for a 40 pound bag and the particles are small enough not to get stuck in the flash hole.

[jcwit]

I think I'm going to try the one that Harbor Freight imports and sells, with the 20% coupon it only costs $24.00. If nothing else it'll clean the wife's diamonds.

Instead of using Graingers order from DrillSpot which I believe is a division of Graingers. It'll come drop shipped from Graingers warehouse prepaid right to your door. No gas expense to go get it, and the price right now is slightly cheaper than Grainger.

[brickeyee]

So now I just plop them 100 or so into an old sock, pin the sock closed, and throw the socks into the wash with some laundry detergent and a bit of Borax.

And contaminate your washer with lead that will then end up on all the other things you wash.

Not a great idea.

[heydawg]

And contaminate your washer with lead that will then end up on all the other things you wash.

Not a great idea.
You obviously didn't read the latter part of my post. Check it again. The whole part about the extra rinse, and the washing out the washer when I'm done part that addresses this. And if I was so afraid of lead poisoning, I'd not be shooting. I don't often put my clean clothes in my mouth and suck on them either so I'm not sure how much transfer there would be of the lead voodoo after washing 200 deprimed cases -
in the wash.
with an extra rinse
then rinsing the washer out again.

Thank you though for being so concerned about my safety. If you wear shoes home from the range, you contaminate your car. If you walk in the house after going to the range, you contaminate your house. It's lead, not ebola. We've covered the lead voodoo stories before.

[jcwit]

I've been reloading for over 50 years and am far from scared or much bothered about lead, and have been casting for the last 40 years. However I do get tested twice a year for many things encluding heavy metals.

With that said, I'd still refrain from washing my empty brass cases in the cloths washer, even using the rinse cycle afterwards. Why push the envelope or your luck or your families for that matter. Got any youngsters?

But then its your life, and your family.

Wish You Luck!

[1in9twist]

Nu Finish. Simple,cheap, works great.

[brickeyee]

The whole part about the extra rinse, and the washing out the washer when I'm done part that addresses this.

You used a lead test kit to ensure it was lead free?

It is not as simple as just "extra rinse, and the washing out the washer."

[Zumet]

I bought a couple small bottles of turtle wax liquid at the dollar store 2 yrs ago.every 6 months or so I give the media a squirt of wax, and like that ol cop "Hunter" used to say...."works for me""!!!!

[LeonCarr]

Another vote for 20/40 Grainger Blast Media (They have a store 2 miles from where I work) and Nu Finish. Both products are inexpensive, and do the job well.

I have heard several posters mention the stainless pin media, and I have thought about setting up a separate tumbler with that for really grungy brass. It is supposed to clean brass shiny inside and out.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr

[ranger335v]

I've come to prefer 20/40 cob and a couple of teaspoons full of diatomeacous earth. It cleans very well and leaves my cases with a soft matt finish, looking exactly like factory new brass.

[Blue68f100]

For cleaning brass I prefer Hot Citric acid, >150F near boiling. It cleans better than any thing I have tried and is fast, < 1 min. But it must be hot for the best results. 3-4 Tbs/gal will clean 2000+ 9mm. After the brass has been dried I also use the 20/40 corncob with NuFinish Car Polish added to the mix. They come out like a mirror. The media stays cleaner longer since the brass is basicly clean before you start the polishing.

[quartermaster]

I think you will be disappointed if you think clean shiny casings will improve your accuracy. After doing all the tedious case prep, I like to see mine looking good also.

I use a spray lube on my cases as I usually load 100 at a time. The lube that I use will contaminate primers and powder, so when I am finished, I clean them in a ultrasonic cleaner to get rid of the contaminates. I bought the cleaner from Amazon for around $85.00 and the solution I use is citronox, which also comes from Amazon. The come out very clean after 8 minutes. If you want the ultimate in clean and shiny, then tumble them in corn cob media for a few hours.

[Ret.CWO]

That's true.

[bamacisa]

Flitz is good, but it is expensive. Dillon is good, but it is expensive. Nu Finish is just as good and it is not expensive. Add a little mineral spirits to New Finish and it will beat Flitz.( and still cheaper)

[bds]

I think I'm going to try the one that Harbor Freight imports and sells, with the 20% coupon it only costs $24.00.
If you are buying HF walnut media, you are in luck as it is on sale for $22.99 for 25 lbs (http://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-fine-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92155.html?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase&hft_adv=40010&mr:trackingCode=28730F9E-782A-E011-B31E-001B2163195C&mr:referralID=NA). They come in fine (24 grit) or coarse (12 grit) and I highly recommend the fine media - it's so small that it won't even clog the flash holes. I am using up a box I bought last year and it comes clean without any dust. I find that adding 1 capful of NuFinish every 3 batches does a great job and adding used cut up dryer sheets helps keep the media much cleaner longer. While you are at HF, you can also pick up NuFinish for $7.99 (http://www.harborfreight.com/nu-finish-car-polish-97634.html).

For me, fine walnut media + NuFinish is so easy, even a cave man could do it ... :eek::what::neener:
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_15077.jpghttp://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_12506.jpg

[noylj]

Nothing. Any more than wiping off the case exterior or tumbling in 20/40 grit corn media for 30 minutes, you are simply working on your ego and not making your reloads any better.
Note: Just how many pages do reloading manuals spend discussing case cleaning?

[35 Whelen]

Clean brass is easier on the dies.


You clean your brass before you size it? Never heard of that. How do you get the case lube off after sizing? Clean again? Just curious.

Brasso. It won't hurt or weaken your brass. Just another internet rumor. It's the only thing I've used in my corncob media for 20+ years. Think about it..it's called BRASSo...formulated to clean BRASS. Is it the best? Probably not, but it does make my brass shine like a diamond in a goats rectum. Is it the ONLY thing that works, no way. But it does work well.

35W

[jcwit]

Nothing. Any more than wiping off the case exterior or tumbling in 20/40 grit corn media for 30 minutes, you are simply working on your ego and not making your reloads any better.

Well yes I guess you're right, its my ego. Same reason I once drove a New Corvette, same reason I never leave the house unless I'm shaved and dressed in clean pressed cloths, keeping my hair combed, and looking a little more than just presentable. Keeping my shoes shined. Dressed in a pressed sharp looking Uniform for Military Funeral detail when required. Keeping my firearms well oiled and cases spotless and sharp looking, and the same with all my shooting gear. Keeping my vehicles waxed and sweept out and clean without an inch of mud and sand on the floor.

Yup its all my ego!

Oh, and I might mention PRIDE sorta fits in here also.

Brasso. It won't hurt or weaken your brass. Just another internet rumor. It's the only thing I've used in my corncob media for 20+ years. Think about it..it's called BRASSo...formulated to clean BRASS.

Liquid Brasso WILL weaken your brass as it contains ammonia. Believe it if you wish, don't if you do not wish to, makes no difference to me. However once the ammonia evaporates out of the mis its no longer present and being as that is the case it no longer presents a problem of course. If in fact you are in reality a 4-H reloading instructor I would suggest you do some research regarding ammonia and the degradation of brass.

..it's called BRASSo...formulated to clean BRASS.

Yup, thats what its called, but nowhere does it claim to be used for cleaning brass ammo cases. For your reading pleasure

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brasso

You clean your brass before you size it? Never heard of that. How do you get the case lube off after sizing? Clean again? Just curious.

If handgun brass and not bottlenecked there is no reason to lube the cases if using carbide, however I usually do with a spray of teflon spray using "Blaster" brand, no reason to remove it as its a dry lube.

If rifle cases I generally lube with Unique case lube or Mink Oil, then rinse in white gas, yes its flamable, but I do it outside and its no more dangerous than filling my lawnmower. Then prime and finish loading. If I want really sharp looking rounds I tumble the finished loaded rounds for a final polish.

Hope this helps and clears a few things up!

[35 Whelen]

Liquid Brasso WILL weaken your brass as it contains ammonia. Believe it if you wish, don't if you do not wish to, makes no difference to me. However once the ammonia evaporates out of the mis its no longer present and being as that is the case it no longer presents a problem of course. If in fact you are in reality a 4-H reloading instructor I would suggest you do some research regarding ammonia and the degradation of brass.



Well, then if the internet rumor is true, then I've been shooting weakened brass for 20+ years and am looking forward to shooting weakened brass for another 30-40 more!

35W

[jcwit]

Don't take it as in internet rumor, do some research and find the truth.

And PLEASE do not pass erroneous and damaging practices on to the youngsters in 4-H, they deserve better than that don't you agree?

You yourself admit to 20 years of polishing brass, I've been reloading since the 50's and polishing brass for that long.

Brasso is fantastic for polishing brass for ones Army uniform tho.

Something else to consider, using a liquid auto polish will not only polish the brass but leave a coating that retards tarnish for years in storage, Brasso does not.

Why not give it a try?

[35 Whelen]

Don't take it as in internet rumor, do some research and find the truth.

I thought 20+ years of using Brasso was research. How much longer should I successfully use it before I reach a conclusion? I'll definitely try something else because my squeeze bottle of Brasso just ran out.

I'm not at all averse to trying something new. I just find it ludicrous for someone with no experience with a product to tell someone will lots of experience with the same product that said product won't work properly.

35W

[jcwit]

Doesn't mean your conclusion isn't wrong. Science contended for years and years that the world was flat. Guess what?

For your reading enjoyment

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=326030

http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080403212321AAvwKCY

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brass

http://www.abbeyclock.com/brass2.html

This is a start for you to peruse.

Just because one uses a product of any kind does not mean any research was done, it only means that that one product was used.

Why are you not able to accept a possible better idea or way of doing something? Keep an open mind.

[USSR]

I thought 20+ years of using Brasso was research.

No, that's called "luck". As jcwit suggested, research the effect of ammonia on brass, brass that is designed to contain thousands of pounds of pressure right in front of your face.

Don

[Ky Larry]

I use crushed walnut hull media from the pet store and add a teaspoonful of white car finish polishing compound. It's worked for me for years.

[Deavis]

Rouge is basically iron oxide (rust) and is mildly abrasive

The powder is messy, if you go that route be prepared. It doesn't take much to cover everything in that annoying dust, so don't add much to start with. Not worth it in my opinion. Plain walnut with some mineral spirits works great, just turn on the tumbler and let it run.

[Blue68f100]

Do a MSDS search on Brasso and read them, it does contain Ammonia. But the way some are listed in the MSDS it may not be obvious.

============= Composition/Information on Ingredients =============

Ingred Name: DEODORIZED KEROSENE (60-70%)
CAS:8008-20-6
RTECS #:OA5500000

Ingred Name: DIATOMACEOUS EARTH
Fraction by Wt: 25%

Ingred Name:FATTY ACID
Fraction by Wt: 10.0%

Ingred Name:AMMONIA (SARA III)
CAS:7664-41-7
RTECS #:BO0875000
OSHA PEL:50 PPM
ACGIH TLV:25 PPM/35 STEL; 9293
EPA Rpt Qty:100 LBS
DOT Rpt Qty:100 LBS

Now you know you can make your on out of DE.

[35 Whelen]

Guess what? Copper solvents contain ammonia. Guess what else? Everyone I've ever used instructs you to brush the bore with a BRASS brush, which I have done. For some reason, my brass bore brushes didn't dissolve before my eyes.

I know Brasso contains ammonia, I can smell it everytime I squirt it in the tumbler. Unless I run across one of the car polishes first, I'll keep using it.
Over a couple of decades I've lost some brass to split necks, etc. but not one piece to the fatigue described by the fear mongers here.

35W

[jcwit]

Guess what? Copper solvents contain ammonia. Thats why I use nylon brushes. Here's a good start.

http://www.midwayusa.com/Find?userSearchQuery=nylon+bore+brushes

Unless I run across one of the car polishes first, I'll keep using it.

Thanks for keeping an open mind.

Also I do not consider myself a fear monger, but an informed and knowledgeable reloader of over 50 years. Why did you need to bring name calling into this discussion?

BTW, did you read any of my links?

[BBDartCA]

Liquid auto polish (not wax) works great for me. I also found a great deal on corncob online. I ordered some - if its what its supposed to be, I'll post the link to it next wek.

[35 Whelen]

BTW, did you read any of my links?

Yes I did, scared me to death to the point that I'll never use Brasso again! :rolleyes:

35W

[jcwit]

Something else to contemplate is that some of the copper solvents containing ammonia can even harm the steel barrel if exposed to the solvent for a period of time, as in a few hours. Sweets being one of them.

[noylj]

Pride comes before a fall.
I prefer to shoot and NOT worry about if my brass is shiner than someone else's.
Many benchrest shooter's, before today's world of OCD, never even cleaned their cases--just hand-wiped.
They kept each set of cases together, with a notch in the head so each case was always oriented the same in the chamber.
It is OCD or ego/pride to do something that has no effect.
You vacuum your car to slow down and prevent wear and tear. Polishing your brass is NOT the same thing.
I can heartily "approve" of people doing things just because they like to, but I do not want these non-essential activities to be discussed to newbees as being IMPORTANT.
If someone wants to spend $300+ for ultrasonic cleaners and then spend time drying their cases, that is their business--but it doesn't mean that one should imply that it is required or will produce rounds any more accurate than those produced by wiping down the case exterior--which is all that most manuals ever say you need to do.
There are simply too many procedures and toys all aimed at "consistency" with no proof that any of the activities improves anything.
I have never read any papers on any benefit to primer pocket uniforming or flash hole deburring, yet how many have simply done because it "couldn't hurt" and how many actually did any shooting to see if it helped?
The magazines and the industry love to sell new toys, but in any reloading article, except Handloader, have you ever seen them do any testing to prove that their way is of any real benefit?
Then, is there any 'danger' of deburring too much and weakening the case head around the flash hole? Is there any 'danger' that you will uniform a primer pocket and have loose primers?
How many extra steps and processes have you adopted without ever verifying that they are worthwhile?
Thus, all a newbee should be worried about is what is required to load good, accurate ammunition and not what the toy-of-the-day is.
I deprime all my cases while inspecting and sorting when I get back from the range.
I have arthritis in my wrists and wiping each case is time-consuming and is very painful.
I, thus, tumble my deprimed cases in 20:40 corn for 30 minutes.
The exterior is clean and any white residue in the primer pockets is gone.
There has never been any media in the flash hole or the primer pocket.
However, I always tell a newbee that all they need to do is wipe off the case exterior. Then I mention tumbling as being a bit faster. As part of tumbling, I tell them that the media will break down and form fine dust, and that walnut does this much more than corn. This dust needs to be removed as it will pack into the case and decrease the effective case volume. For this, you should put some pieces of paper towel, toilet paper, or used drier fabric-softener sheets and separate media outside and try to get the dust to blow away.
Likewise, after reloading for over 40 years, I can state to my own findings that what little lube remains on case after all the handling during reloading is of importance UNLESS you are loading over 60ksi.
I also found that both myself and those I helped load back in the early '70s were better able to see the powder charge height after dropping the charge and before seating a bullet in each individual case than looking at 50 or more charged rounds all in blocks. People too easily see what they want/expect to see. If you inspect each case as you are placing a bullet on the case, you can not as easily miss one. Also, as you are going directly from the powder measure to the seating die, you can not double charge. You also will not drop and spill powder if something bumps the tray.
The key is that your way and my way may not be the same, but as long as both are safe, they are acceptable.

[35 Whelen]

Look Brasso probably COULD have an effect on brass. But let's use our HEADS. I use no more than 1/2 tsp. of it in my vibrator. It has never and likely will never hurt my brass.

I clean brass for two reasons: first is to get residual case lube off it. Second, with certain calibers, is so I can find it in the grass at High Power matches.

35W

[heydawg]

Wow. This thread has officially gone downhill.

[bds]

Wow. This thread has officially gone downhill.
I'll bring it back up.

Fine walnut media + NuFinish + Berry's tumbler will even polish up 3 sets of rusty dies + 2 shell plates/holders! :eek: - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=586563

Before:
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=140015&stc=1&d=1302187231

After:
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=140184&stc=1&d=1302417338
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=140185&stc=1&d=1302417338

[chrome_austex]

Those dies look great! That gives me some hope at least :)

[35 Whelen]

Those really do look good!

35W

[Maximumbob54]

Drillspot's 14/20 corn cob: Note the free delivery...
http://www.drillspot.com/products/499763/econoline_526020g-40_40_lbs_blast_media

Add a shot of NuFinish. Never tried adding a shot of mineral spirits. Might have to try that. Seems like it would evaporate too fast to do anything.

Add the used dryer sheet to collect the dust, carbon, and other filth and toss when it looks ugly enough.

I use a Lee Universal decapper to pop out primers before I polish brass. It doesn't get the primer pockets shiny, but they are more than clean enough.

[jcwit]

Right Maximumbob54. I've been tooting the horn about 14/20 corn cob when I got my first bag from Grainger 4/5 years ago before I knew about DrillSpot and their free shipping policy.

Yup I've gone thru that much polishing media in the last few years, tumbler runs a bunch, altho not as much as 4/5 years ago. Too many guys reloading.

With the amount of tumbling I do, I think I know more than just a little about it. If I was younger I'd set up for the SS Pin liquid method, but at this stage I'm not going to invest in a complete new set-up.

I would like to try the lizard litter but have yet to find the fine kind. Yes I've been to PetSmart and tried all the big box stores near me, like WalMart & Meijers. Either none of them carry it or I'm missing it somehow, even asked the store employes but I believe most of them have no idea what the establishment they work for carries even in the department they work in.

[CZ57]

How much Nu-Finish are you guys adding to the media? Just got some to try it out. ;)

[Maximumbob54]

I add what most describe as a "cap full" but really when I add fresh media I just give it a one second squirt. Once it's in there I add more maybe once more again at the media's half life. Then it's toss the media time for some fresh.

[jcwit]

Bout right. Approx a cap full, teaspoon, something like that. Some have the idea that more is good, that will just gum up your media.

Maximumbob has it right.

[Maximumbob54]

As a note, if you do ever add too much... You don't have to scrap it. I meant to just give a quick squirt and got more of a um... blort... I was stubborn and allowed it to mix in for a while before I realized I had added too much. I just poured about 2/3's of it into a big freezer bag and set is aside. Mixed in some fresh and it was all good. Then when it was time to replace again, I split the bag in half and so on.

[bds]

How much Nu-Finish are you guys adding to the media? Just got some to try it out.
Berry's tumbler has larger capacity than MidwayUSA/FA tumbler. After filling 2/3 full with new walnut media, I usually add 2 capfuls of NuFinish to FA tumbler and 3 capfuls to Berry's and run them until there's no clumping (about 10-15 minutes). I'll even take a screwdriver and stir the vibrating media around to de-clump faster.

Many post that they add a capful of polish with each load and I find this too much with NuFinish. For me, adding a capful of NuFinish every 3 loads does a good job along with cut up used dryer sheets thrown in.

YMMV

[CZ57]

Thanks guys! I have some well worn media in my Midway tumbler that I think I'll experiment with first and see if I can bring it back to life somewhat. ;)

[BoKnows]

Wet Tumbling with Stainless Steel Media is the best. Here's some brass my sons and I picked up from an outdoor shooting area. As you can see it's dirty when we started. I'd like to see corn cob media do this.

Before

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6116/6314473812_6580819903_z.jpg

After

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6038/6313955453_752f015359_z.jpg

[35 Whelen]

That's stuff looks like it works great, I'd love to try it, but I don't have a wet tumbler, and it seems like it'd be a mess to clean up wet brass. Is "Stainless Steel Media" the brand name? Where did you get it?

Somewhere I have an old Handloader magazine around here and it has an article about case cleaning with Cream of Tartar. worked quite well as I recall.

35W

[BoKnows]

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/

I just pick the brass out of the tumbler and set it on a towel to dry over night. Great part is it cleans inside, outside, and the primer pocket come out clean too. Its also nice that its reusable and my expendables are 2 tablespoons of liquid dish soap and 1/2 teaspoon Lemi-shine.

[noylj]

A solution to a non-existent problem.
May your brass always be so shiny that you think it's gold.
Me? Corn is good enough.

[45ACPUSER]

The two best additives are simple

Iosso Case Polish and Flitz Metal Polish.

For Bling Bling Bright nothing beats fresh corn cob media with either of the abovie.

14/20 Grit can be bought at Graingers or order from McMaster Carr.

[blarby]

Time.

[jcwit]

14/20 Grit can be bought at Graingers or order from McMaster Carr.

Or also from DrillSpot drooped at your front door freight free. No shipping, no gas expense driving to pick it up.

The two best additives are simple

Subjective to say the least. Nu-Finish, or any other auto liquid polish for that matter, is also one of the "BEST" whatever that means. It also deposits a polymer on the cases to prevent/retard tarnish, the other two mentioned do not.

[JohnM]

I was all whooped up to go for the stainless media when I first read about it.
There's a couple places to get just the media fairly inexpensively around.
And I had a couple rotary tumblers including a big 15 pounder.
I had also checked out drying wet cases in an old electric food dehydrator and it worked like a top.

Then I thought, aw what the heck.
Crushed walnut and corncob work fine.
Why bother. :D

[BoKnows]

Lets see pictures of the results. Otherwise, just empty promises.

[jcwit]

SS wet tumbling works super well. Corn cob and/or crushed walnut works well also at a much lower outlay to start with. Ya I realize the SS pins never wear out, but consider how long a 40 lb. bag of corn cob lasts for the average guy out there polishing brass, let alone how long a bottle on any kind of polish is going to last.

I thought about switching to SS pin wet tumbling but decided against it as I doubt I would ever see a return in satisfaction for the $2/300 bucks spent. But thats just me. My set up has worked for 20/30 years, sooooooooooooooooooooooo!

[Uniquedot]

I put some rouge in crushed walnut and tumbled for two hours and fifteen minutes and the cases came out at least as shiny as those in post #76, but there was some that still had some staining present and of course the insides of the cases were not shiny. It was more of an experiment anyway as i don't care about shiny cases. I just want them clean. As has been mentioned before why worry about how shiny something is that is only going to be used for a few firings anyway? I tried the nufinish and the cases come out very clean although they don't look like gold as the ones did that the rouge was tested on they are very clean and it's easy to spot any defects. Whenever i have really tarnished cases I'll be using the nufinish and walnut otherwise i will just wash and dry them.

[BoKnows]

Personally I like my cases clean and thats why I just use soap and water. The Lemi-shines is used because I have hard water due to coming from my well. For those of you who claim you just want it clean, how come you're using all sorts of polishing additives? Why noy just use plain media?

Not knocking your choices but giving every my first hand experiences. My choice was easy because the media was $50 and the tumbler I already had for polishing rocks with my kids. Otherwise, I would have spent more for dry media tumbling. Even if I had to do it again I would go wet because the initial cost may be higher but not by much. Then again, you could also polish rocks for the kids too.

[bds]

Lets see pictures of the results. Otherwise, just empty promises.
I just did this while I had lunch. These are 9mm indoor range brass cases and I tumbled in fine walnut media + NuFinish + Cabela's (Berry's) tumbler for 30 minutes (yes, exactly 30 minutes). I had done about 4 batches of brass prior to this batch and intentionally did not add any NuFinish to the media.

This is not new media, I had tumbled about 10 batches of 9/40/45 brass and I use about 2 cutup used dryer sheets which I toss as they get dark. I do not need super polished brass, just clean cases with light polish to keep my dies on the clean side. If I want more brilliant shine, I tumble them in corn cob + NuFinish for 1+ hour.


Before and after tumbling:

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=153085&stc=1&d=1321818393
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=153086&stc=1&d=1321818393

Bowl filled 2/3 with walnut media and enough cases added to bring media almost up to the rim while tumbling to not spill media and slow down the tumbling action (the cut up dryer sheets are hidden inside the media).

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=153087&stc=1&d=1321818479

[SourMash]

Those of you with the SS, will a tumble type media seperator do the job or do y'all just use magnets? I spent the money and I'm more than happy with it, but the tedious work comes when trying to recover the pins after tumbling.

[Rafterman191]

A wealth of knowledge my friends, a wealth. Picked up the NuFinish and like it. Loaded 250 rnds in the last couple days. Need some trigger time now. Thanks all and safe and happy shooting!

[brickeyee]

I spent the money and I'm more than happy with it, but the tedious work comes when trying to recover the pins after tumbling.

It is easier with something so low cost it is disposable (like walnut or corn cob).

No one cares if some is lost.

Vacuum it up and throw some new into the tumbler next time you use it.

[JohnM]

trying to recover the pins after tumbling

The best way to keep from losing those pins is to do the separating in water.
With the pins falling through whatever your screen is into a bucket below.
Then you can pour off the water and transfer your media back into the tumbler or where ever.

[Guy B. Meredith]

I would assume a Thumbler rock/brass tumbler works well with stainless steel media?

Ooops. Just checked out the link and those are Thumbler type tumblers in the photos.

[Keeperfaith]

Ok im just getting into reloading (havent even bought my reloader yet) and I have a lot of brass. I just bought the 5 gallon tumbler and fine crushed walnut from Habor Freight Tools. Now How do you use the Nu-Finish in tumbling the brass? Do you just add a few drops to the media? or polish the brass afterwards?
Any help would be great.
How long do you tumble the brass and how much brass should I put in at a time?

THanks

PS: thinking of getting a Lee Pro 1000 reloader, any thoughts, ideas critizisms or additions I should get when purchasing it?

thanks

Steve

[bds]

Now How do you use the Nu-Finish in tumbling the brass? Do you just add a few drops to the media? or polish the brass afterwards?

How long do you tumble the brass and how much brass should I put in at a time?
My Cabela's tumbler (same as Berry's 400 tumbler) has 1000 9mm case capacity but I typically tumble with less for faster cleaning/polishing (around 600-800 cases). I normally fill the bowl about 2/3 with fine walnut media and drizzle 2 capfuls of NuFinish polish and run the tumbler for 5-15 minutes or until all the clumps are gone (I will also use a paint stick to stir the media around to speed up the process).

I do not need super shiny cases, just clean cases with light polish to keep my dies clean and with residual polymer on the surface for easier resizing efforts. For most indoor range brass, Cabela's tumbler takes about 30 minutes to clean the brass with a light polish (see post #88 for pics). For brilliant polish, I use corn cob media + NuFinish and about an hour+ in the tumbler (for me, walnut tends to cleans better and corn cob polishes better).

I add additional capful of NuFinish every 3 batches or so as I prefer to keep my media on the dry side (I run the tumbler until all the clumps are gone). If you add too much polish and the media clumps, your cases won't clean/polish and you may get spots on your cases.

As to how much brass to add to the bowl, with 2/3 fill with walnut media, I keep adding cases as long as the tumbling motion does not slow down - so you may need to do some trial and error with your tumbler. Adding cut up used dryer sheets really does help with extending the life of your media (I toss them as they get dark/black).

PS: thinking of getting a Lee Pro 1000 reloader, any thoughts, ideas critizisms or additions I should get when purchasing it?
Pro 1000 is not for everyone as it will require a reloader who has the patience/diligence to clean/lube/adjust/maintain the press regularly and stop to investigate problems instead of forcing the ram lever to cycle. If you are willing to learn the proper operations of the press and apply regular cleaning/lubing/PM schedule with each reloading session, you could end up reloading 450-650 rounds/hour. It is primarily a pistol caliber press as it will only do short rifle cartridges (.223/7.62x39). If you want to reload both pistol and rifle cartridges, I highly recommend the 4 station Lee Classic Turret press with cast iron base.

Pro 1K is a 3 station auto indexing progressive press with case and bullet feeder attachments but most Pro 1K users I know prefer to place the bullets manually with their left hand. The gravity based primer feed attachment will become problematic if the feed ramp is not kept full of primers to push the next primer into station #2 or if any foreign object gets in the feed ramp to keep the primers from sliding freely (I keep a bent paper clip to help push any primer that didn't slide into station #2 fully and a can of compressed air to keep the ramp clear of debris - usually powder granules/flakes).

Check out some of these Lee Precision instructional videos on Pro 1000 press (Start with Pro 1000 Demo video) - http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=leeprecisioninc+pro+1000&oq=leeprecisioninc+pro+1000&aq=f&aqi=&aql=1&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=7837l9401l0l9748l9l9l0l8l0l0l84l84l1l1l0

Here's a support thread on Pro 1000 - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=507454