Question for the "machinist types": preventing rust on tools


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TexasShooter59
November 18, 2011, 10:55 PM
I recently bought an L.E. Wilson trimmer, case holders and case gages. How do I take care of these tools and keep them from rusting? They will stay in the house most of the time. They will probably go to the garage for a few hours when being used and then back indoors. Do I need to do anything special to them, or keep them in certain containers, etc?

There construction reminds me of setup tools/gages that machinists use.

Thanks in advance!

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DaveInFloweryBranchGA
November 18, 2011, 11:03 PM
Clean them and wipe them down with an oily rag. Leaving a light coat of oil and keeping them away from water and humidity will help keep them in good shape for years to come. Any inexpensive lightweight machine oil will do the trick.

TexasShooter59
November 18, 2011, 11:33 PM
Thanks for your response, Dave. On the headspace case gages, if I pull a rag or paper towel through them to get the oil out before use, is that enough so that they don't loose accuracy?

soloban
November 19, 2011, 12:09 AM
Hornady One Shot is a good cleaner/protectant.

Striker Fired
November 19, 2011, 01:11 AM
I use LPS#2 in the spray can,we use it at work on our surface plates and mill tables or lathe ways.most of our tools are sprayed with it once in awhile also.

MEHavey
November 19, 2011, 11:20 AM
I've been a long-time usr/truster of BreakFree, but...

Try this stuff:
http://www.steelshieldtech.com/mainpage/retail-product-weapon-shield.html

If you want to investigate its effectiveness, check here:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283726



.

mbopp
November 19, 2011, 12:02 PM
Lee Liquid Alox is really repackaged rustproofing compound. You could thin it 50/50 with mineral spirits and wipe it on.

rcmodel
November 19, 2011, 12:10 PM
Wax them!

See this:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4110525&postcount=7

No fuss, no muss, and no oily film to fool with when you want to use them.

rc

TexasShooter59
November 19, 2011, 12:14 PM
Thanks for all the great answers! :cool:

TexasShooter59
November 19, 2011, 12:18 PM
Wax them!

See this:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4110525&postcount=7

No fuss, no muss, and no oily film to fool with when you want to use them.

rc
Just saw this after my post...

That is an interesting idea. I say that because I use car wax on my table saw top and it seems to work well. Like you said, it doesn't last forever, but it's good while it's relatively fresh.

rcmodel
November 19, 2011, 12:21 PM
I think unless you have toxic fingerprints, or a lot of salt sea air, Johnson's Paste Wax will last a long time on those hand tools.

I had mentioned in that post frequent waxing was needed on carry guns that are in body contact all the time.

rc

TexasShooter59
November 19, 2011, 12:30 PM
That sounds pretty good. I think the car wax just "weathers(?)" off just like on a car. The saw sits in a garage with temporary sun exposure during a day.

Striker Fired
November 19, 2011, 03:35 PM
Meguires spray on wax would work great then,It will get into the cracks and crevises that wouldn't be real easy to with a cloth.

DBR
November 19, 2011, 07:01 PM
Eezox: http://www.eezox.com/

Chawbaccer
November 19, 2011, 07:10 PM
Get some camphor tablets and put in drawer with parts.

Blind Dog Jake
November 19, 2011, 07:50 PM
Flitz Rifle and gun wax. Woriks great on guns, reloading dies and cast iron band saw/table saw tops. About $15 a bottle.

http://www.flitz.com/p-28-rifle-gun-knife-wax.aspx

TexasShooter59
November 19, 2011, 09:25 PM
Thanks for all the comments today! I really appreciate it.

Clark
November 20, 2011, 01:35 AM
a) I can put a bare metal clean framing hammer in an unheated garage with concrete floor and one wall in common with the house in the Pacific Northwest, and that tool will not rust in 50 years.

b) I can put a bare metal clean framing hammer in an unheated garage with dirt floor and a stand alone building in the Pacific Northwest, and that tool will rust overnight.

c) I can put a bare metal clean 1000 pound cast iron milling machine in an unheated garage with concrete floor and one wall in common with the house in the Pacific Northwest, and that tool will rust a couple times a year as the temp and humidity rise faster than the machine's air cooling thermal time constant.

d) I can put a bare metal clean 200 pound tablesaw in an open but covered car port with concrete floor and one wall in common with the house in the Pacific Northwest, and that tool will rust badly several times per winter.

e) I can put a bare metal clean 200 pound tablesaw in an open but covered car port with concrete floor and one wall in common with the house, and cover with an old sheet in the Pacific Northwest, and that tool will rust slightly several times per winter.

f) I can put a bare metal clean 200 pound tablesaw in an open but covered car port with concrete floor and one wall in common with the house, paint the metal with motor oil and a toothbrush, and cover with an old sheet in the Pacific Northwest, and that tool will not rust for 3 months until the oil evaporates.

Oil evaporates?
Yes, it has a vapor pressure.

http://www.cortecvci.com/Publications/Papers/VCIProducts/CTP-13.pdf

The deal with no rust in the house, is that there is always an electric light bulb on somewhere to keep the house just a little warmer than the dew point outside. So if the tool is small enough, it will not rust in 50 years.

TexasShooter59
November 20, 2011, 09:25 AM
Clark, thanks for posting - that's really interesting!

rfwobbly
November 20, 2011, 09:39 AM
I just use Imperial sizing lube. It's mostly wax and is already on your bench.

TexasShooter59
November 22, 2011, 09:56 PM
Now that this thread has died down, I wanted to say thanks for all the great responses. I'll probably have to draw them out of a hat to pick one! Hopefully, others will find this helpful in the long run.

1SOW
November 22, 2011, 10:22 PM
rc,model +1

I've been using Johnson's paste wax on my cast iron table saw top for many years with no rust.

I also use liquid car wax on my "mags" inside and out. They stay "slippery" and have zero corrosion.

Wax prevents rust.

jcwit
November 23, 2011, 12:12 AM
Here's another one of the old tried and true corrosion inhibitors, we almost lost it. but it back and just as good as ever.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31842/Product/RIG-reg-UNIVERSAL-GUN-GREASE

rodinal220
November 23, 2011, 08:00 AM
Starrett M-1 Oil:

http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=33050/Product/Starrett-12-oz-M1-Oil-Aerosol-Can

moxie
November 23, 2011, 06:31 PM
If you are ever feeling a tad lazy, just use some spray Lemon Pledge. Works great. Smells good too. Honest.

TexasShooter59
November 23, 2011, 07:19 PM
rc,model +1

I've been using Johnson's paste wax on my cast iron table saw top for many years with no rust.

I also use liquid car wax on my "mags" inside and out. They stay "slippery" and have zero corrosion.

Wax prevents rust.
How often do you wax your table saw?

1SOW
November 24, 2011, 01:27 AM
A 19 yr old contractor saw and the fence. I wax it about twice/year. It's always been in a no heat/no aircon garage year round. Wichita Falls, Ft Walton Beach and near San Antonio.

Edit to add: I started waxing it to make it "slippery", so wood fed smoothly through the saw. The rust prevention was an added benefit.

GaryL
November 25, 2011, 12:01 PM
You used to be able to buy paper tubes with rust inhibitor that could be inserted into the barrel of rifles and shotguns. Those work great, but I have not been able to track down any new ones.

A 19 yr old contractor saw and the fence. I wax it about twice/year. It's always been in a no heat/no aircon garage year round.
I have one about the same age. It gets a coat of wax whenever I'm feeling inclined, which is anything from 3 months to 2 years. Other than a few stains, which I found were significantly reduced using a little Kroil, it has held up well.

Clark
November 26, 2011, 02:03 AM
I should start a wax vs oil test.
This thread has piqued my interest in was as a rust prevenative.

Deavis
November 26, 2011, 04:06 AM
LPS1 will work perfectly for you, use #2 for medium length storage and #3 for long term. I think LPS3 in the liquid form works great but hard to clean up when you use it all the time. LPS1 is great, we wipe down all our machinery with it and surface rust is not a problem in Texas humidity

GaryL
November 26, 2011, 11:04 AM
Found the bore tubes company:
http://www.barrelguard.com/

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