[Jaywalker]

Okay, I am a klutz. In fore-end bedding my new Ruger M77 MkII, I taped off where the epoxy would overflow and applied release agent to the tape. Unfortunately, the tape came unstuck, and some of the epoxy got on the wood stock. Is there a way to get this off?

Jaywalker

[jaybar]

A fine file and a steady hand.

[Jaywalker]

Thanks. I do have a fine file. Do you know where I can buy a steady hand? Or, alternatively, another approach?

Jaywalker

[JNewell]

Sometimes if there's "stuff" (technical term) on the surface of the stock you can pick excess epoxy off with a fingernail.

A supplemental trick for the future is to wax the stock before the job. Tape and/or release agent is still good, but you will have a second line of defense when Murphy calls.

[romulus]

I saw epoxy remover at Ace. Also, super-glue remover might work :confused: I know it's for cyanoacrylates but who knows...

[Jaywalker]

Thanks. This is really fingernail-level stuff, since there isn't much. I'm just looking into the future: "I bedded this," and "Yes, I figured that." :rolleyes:

If you put wax on the stock, doesn't that prevent tape from sticking?

As much as I'm taking out, I may go all the way and free-float it. That way I can say, I meant to do it all along.

Jaywalker

[JNewell]

Wax and tape. Depends somewhat on the tape adhesive I guess, but I haven't had problems. Or, just wax it up. It's a little anxiety-provoking, I admit, but I have never had a problem with wax as a release agent. Just make sure you use enough...it isn't necessary to buff it after application.

[Jaywalker]

When you wipe the "squish" away when installing the barreled action, does the wax come off and leave the stock unprotected?

Jaywalker

[JNewell]

I wouldn't wipe anything away, for the reason you mention (removing wax or other release agent). If there's enough excess, I sometimes use part of a 3x5 index card to remove excess epoxy, kind of trying to cut it against the metal (which I have sprayed with Brownell's release agent, which works incredibly well). If it's not bad, I'd leave it until it'd cured. Careful work after curing will take care of things -- a combination of picking (breaking) off some pieces and filing or grinding (small hand grinder) off other parts.

[Jaywalker]

For the folks who may be researching this issue later, I've had some success removing the epoxy on the stock. It's not perfect, but it is better than it was before.

Initially, I used a fine, small, triangular (cross section) file. I did not attempt to take the epoxy down to the wood, since that would scar the finish and maybe the wood underneath. Instead, I just hit it lightly across the thickest part, mostly with the flat, but sometimes the edge. Eventually, that weakened the epoxy, which is very brittle. When it got thinner, somethimes I'd press lightly with the file - the wood behind the epoxy is more resilient that the epoxy, and the epoxy would break. Then it was thumbnail time. some of the pieces came off in big enough chucks to jab me under the thumbnail, so it did work.

There are small pieces left that I'll be working for some time.

Jaywalker

[Traveler]

Since the epoxy is basically the same as the finish, which is often the case with those heavy, glossy, finishes, I usually just use a chisel or knife to remove the majority of the spill, and then sand the surface with finer grades of wet papers. Once the defect is no longer noticable I polish out the area with plexiglass polish. Repairs are impossible to detect.

[Jaywalker]

"Plexiglass polish" sounds good - what is it and where can I get some?

Jaywalker

[Traveler]

I buy mine from guys by the local airport. They use it to keep canopies clear.

[Jaywalker]

Thanks.

Jaywalker