Winchester Model 62 circa 1946 help


December 25, 2011, 04:21 PM
My father has a Model 62 that was given to him by his father when he was 14 and it has some problems. His father had the gun up to about 20 years ago and when he got it back it was missing the inner mag tube. He was able to find a replacement a few years ago, but now the gun will not feed. While I am in town for Christmas I wanted to take a look and see if I could at least determine what is wrong with it and eventually get it shooting again. My father thought that it had a broken firing pin, his half brother got hold of it while my dad was in Korea and managed to do some damage. I tried to put a spent round in the chamber to try and see if the firing pin was indeed broken, but it looks like someone went crazy dry firing the rifle and has dented the chamber face so badly that I could not get the empty brass into the chamber. I've attached a pic to hopefully show the damage.

The spot at ~7:00 is what is not allowing the brass into the chamber. The ridge inside the upper half of the chamber was some old crud that I was able to get out.

I would mean the world to me to get this gun shooting again as it has a great deal of emotional meaning to my father. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to repair this?

I'm also a little surprised to see what looks to be firing pin damage at 10:00 and 1:00 as well as the really bad spot at 7:00. I would expect to only see firing pin damage at one position on the face of the chamber.

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December 25, 2011, 04:44 PM
If I remember correctly, the 62's firing pin strikes at 12:00 o'clock (my 1950 Christmas present 62A was stolen back in 1975. Wish I still had it...) Whatever damage there is to the face of the chamber was not done by dry-firing the rifle. Best bet I'd say would be to find a good gunsmith who can reface the barrel. Hope this is of some help. Merry Christmas!

December 25, 2011, 05:32 PM
I agree the dent was not caused by dry firing, as like airedaleman correctly remembers, all Winchester 1890, 06, 62 & 62A firing pins are located top dead center in the bolt face.

Brownell's sells a chamber ironing tool that might get you up and running.

Or you could probably make a long tapered steel punch and do the same thing.
Just don't get carried away and expand the whole chamber mouth.

BTW: I can't tell for sure from the picture, but it almost looks like a broken case stuck in the chamber??


December 25, 2011, 05:33 PM
Thanks for the feedback. I wish it was the firing pin as I think I could handle that myself.

Some of the material from that spot on the face of the chamber is pushed down into the barrel. Would resurfacing the barrel take care of that or is that some kind of reaming into the chamber?

If this was a engine block I would know what to do, but gun repair is new to me:)

December 25, 2011, 05:34 PM
Hopefull you were typing while I was posting the link to the chamber ironing tool in post #3.

Bottom line is, you have to push the dent back where it came from without removing any metal.


December 25, 2011, 05:36 PM

Thanks for the info as well. The stuff in the chamber looked to be some old grease that had formed a ridge. I picked it out with a toothpick, relieved to find it was soft. I first thought it was some kind of other damage to the chamber.

I'll take a look at that tool now.

December 25, 2011, 05:37 PM
I'd guess bullet lube and carbon fouling from shooting a lot of .22 Shorts in the long rifle chamber then.

Looks like a cleaning rod & bronze bore brush is the first thing to do.


December 25, 2011, 05:42 PM
Hopefull you were typing while I was posting the link to the chamber ironing tool in post #3.

Bottom line is, you have to push the dent back where it came from without removing any metal.

That looks like just what I need. I'll get that on order tomorrow. I just need to come up with some other things that I need from them as well to try and soften the blow of the shipping charges.

It's coming home with me for a good cleaning, and hopefully once it's up and running again it will get a trip to the range to have a third and fourth generation shooting it.

Thanks once again. This is the second time you've helped me with my guns

January 5, 2012, 06:18 PM
Just wanted to follow up on this. I ordered the tool last Friday from Midway and it showed up today as well as the rest of the parts I ordered.

5 minutes with the tool and some oil and unfired LR rounds drop right in and out now. This was well worth the $24 for the tool.

Now I just need to figure out how to get this magazine friction spring in. It was missing and I only just found it even exists as it does not show up on some parts lists/schematics. After much searching I know that it is held in by the front ring, but that's about it.

January 6, 2012, 12:47 PM
I just got back in from the range for a quick test fire and I think I can officially call it a shooter again. I still have not figured out the friction spring yet, but a small piece of electrical tape serves for now. I also cannot get more than 3 rounds in the magazine at a time. The rounds do not seem to be stacking properly and I cannot get the inner tube back in with more than 3 rounds in, no matter how much shaking I do. Other than those two issues the gun feeds and fires great.

January 6, 2012, 12:55 PM
The front mag tube band has a slot in it the friction spring sets in.

You need to remove the pin in the back ring and slide the mag tube out far enough to set the flat spring in the slot in the mag tube. (with the inner tube removed completely)

Then holding your mouth just right, slide the tube back in the gun with the flat spring aligned with the cut in the ring it fits in.

Once seated back in the receiver, put the retaining pin back in the ring.
And the inside tube back in the outside tube.

Not sure what is causing the 3-round hangup problem?
But the only way to find out is to take the end cap pin out, and take the tube apart.
Pull the spring and follower out and clean the inside of the tube with a bore brush & cleaning rod & patches.

It may be a dent in the tube.
If that is found, find a drill bit that exactly fits & slides down the tube to the dent.
Then use something to push the smooth drill shank on in under the dent.

Now use a small peening hammer and a flat steel surface to lay the tube on and "tappy-tap-tap" the dent out.


January 6, 2012, 01:14 PM
Thanks. I'll give that a try this evening.

The replacement spring appears to be a little wider than the slot in the outer tube. Do I need to file the spring down or is it supposed to be wider for a friction fit? To clarify. I meant the squared off portion of the spring is wider than the slot.

January 6, 2012, 01:18 PM
No, it should just be a perfect fit in the band slot.
Not tight, but not loose either.

Most of then fall out when you slide the tube out and go hide under the work bench, until you finally learn to remember to catch them.


January 6, 2012, 09:53 PM

I was able to figure out the friction spring and inner mag tube hanging issues this afternoon in time to get back out to the range.

It turns out that I was chasing my tail on the friction spring. The slot that I thought that the spring fit into was actually the friction spring built into the outer tube. DOH! I just bent the center strip down and it holds the tube. I guess that's why I was seeing it in some places but not others as a 62 part. I can only assume that the 1906 and 62s had the separate spring, but the 62As went to the one piece :confused:

The inner mag tube hanging was caused by the replacement tube hanging on the lead rounds as it slid in. Once I chamfered the leading edge on the tube a bit, it slid in over 10 rounds with just a little wiggling. A little more work with some sandpaper and it should slide right in.

We ran a little over 100 rounds of mostly CB Longs through it this afternoon and it ran GREAT. I only had a couple of paper targets, but about half a case of clay pigeons so we spent most of the time shooting these as 25 and 50 yards.

RC - Thanks again for your assistance. It was great to be able to get this gun up a running again without having to send it out for someone else to work on.

Here is a pic of my 12 year old wearing out the pigeons. She makes it officially 4 generations to shoot this gun :D

January 7, 2012, 01:11 PM
Most excellent!!
Looks like a new one!!

That gun right there is going to be a joy to you and your daughter from now on I betcha!

One word of caution that you may already know.
All Win 1890, 06, 62, 62A's are just a tad dangerous when you unload them.

If you take the mag tube out and dump all the rounds out in your hand?
There is very likely still one round hung up in the carrier.

So, always cycle the action a couple three times after dumping the mag tube, Just in Case.

I am pretty sure that is what happened in this sad ND 30 miles from here.

PS: Sorry about the mag friction spring confusion.
You said you had one, so I put two & two together and got five.
But the 62A doesn't have a seperate spring, as you found out!


January 8, 2012, 12:37 PM
No worries on the mag spring. You could only go on what I had said. I had convinced myself that the spring was my problem based on searches, but I did not notice that they were for 1906/62s, not the 62A. I was just about to post some pics of the tube and ring to see what I was missing when I realized what was going on.

On the safety issue. I had experienced that the other night when I had put three rounds in to test the feed and eject. When I needed to empty the mag, only two came out. I now try and keep close count of the rounds in and out of it, but if left me with enough doubt to always closely check the gun. With the shorter CBs with the dark lead bullets, they are really hard to see hiding down in the carrier. But hearing that story I will always make sure to clear the action a couple of times as well as a visual check. I'm used to my Marlin 60s. If the bolt is open and I can see the chamber is clear and see the red follower that the gun is safe.

One more question. I have yet to clean to lower action and stock. I really only want to lightly clean the stock, not any kind of refinishing. There are a few small dents that I think I will be able to steam out and the areas where it gets handled while shooting are darkened from hand oils. It seems to have an oil finish without any kind of varnish.

January 8, 2012, 12:50 PM
The Winchester stock finish was varnish over a proprietary red die.
Pre-64 Winchester stocks all had that unique reddish color that is very hard to match if you sand & refinish them.

I have good luck bringing those old stocks back without refinishing using 0000 Super-Fine steel wool & Formby's Lemon Oil Furniture Polish.
It cuts all the old hand oil & grime without harming the original finish.

Nicks & dings get a light touch-up with Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil.

I generally use carnuba type paste floor wax after that.


January 8, 2012, 01:26 PM
I wish I would of known you about 20 years ago when I had 2 of these Winchesters rcmodel. Thank you for the information in your last post.

January 8, 2012, 01:57 PM
Sounds like the Formbys Polish and carnuba wax are just what I am looking for. I'll give that a try this week.

Thanks once again.

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