RCBS Scale Pan Change


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OrdellRobbie
December 30, 2011, 10:04 PM
I did a search an couldnt find anything but i have a feeling this has been discussed or done before.

I would like to use a scale pan with a funnel built/molded as one ie panfunnel, on my rcbs 5-10. I have always used a panfunnel on my electronic scale but am slowly switching to using the beam scale. I found lead shot stored under the factory pan hanger and added some more shot to compensate for the aluminum vs plastic pan weight difference and zeroed out the scale. Weighing 200 and 220 gr bullets i find they both read the same (both read the 200 as 199.9 and the 220 as 219.9) Has anyone tried this and or see a problem with using the plastic panfunnel instead of the factory aluminum??

Thanks for any thoughts!

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kelbro
December 30, 2011, 10:14 PM
No reason that wouldn't work. Gravity is gravity.

gamestalker
December 31, 2011, 12:12 AM
Makes no difference so long as it will zero out and is weighing correctly. As stated, gravity is gravity, and balance is balance.

FROGO207
December 31, 2011, 09:24 AM
Just don't forget you changed the calibration and go back to the original pan without re calibrating.;)

rcmodel
December 31, 2011, 12:14 PM
200 as 199.9 and the 220 as 219.9)I would for sure get some check weights and find out what it does at more realistic powder charge weights.

It might be fine at 200+ grains and off a grain or two at pistol charge weight of 3.0 or 5.0.

Thats where it really matters.

rc

beatledog7
December 31, 2011, 12:57 PM
What rc said.

Think in terms of proportion. A tenth of a grain may be significant for Bullseye in a .38SPL load, but not for 7828 in a 7mm Rem Mag load.

P-32
December 31, 2011, 04:24 PM
I'm not so brave to add or remove lead weight to my beam scales and expect good results. I like the panfunnel too and it is most handy. I still measure powder weights with the scale supplied pan and transfer the powder to the panfunnel after getting the weight I wanted. Sounds like a PITA but really it's not.

kelbro
December 31, 2011, 11:52 PM
I'm not so brave to add or remove lead weight to my beam scales and expect good results.

How do you think that shot got in there to begin with?

If you buy a replacement pan from RCBS, you will have to do it yourself.

Like I said before, it's just gravity.

OrdellRobbie
January 2, 2012, 09:59 PM
hey thanks for the comments! I managed to borrow some check weights and it actually reads better than my electronic. Even down to 2 and 3 grains the beam is more consistant. My dillon has to be rezeroed every couple of weighs...thats why im going back to the beam and so far i see no need to turn back. With the electronic scale it will read right on what the check weight is but only say 1 out of 3 times weighing the same piece, and zeroing between each weigh. Usually only off one tenth but some times two.

I'm satisfied with the results so far. The only thing i think i could have down different(i dont think it matters) is take off the original scale hook and pan and weigh them together on anther scale. Then swap pans and make it weigh the exact same by adjusting the shot. This should make it to where i shouldnt even have to adjust the foot to calibrate. Id say i had to adjust it maybe an eighth of an inch so im gunna let it ride.

rfwobbly
January 2, 2012, 10:13 PM
I repair reloading scales of all kinds. The #9 lead shot you found is how the factory "zeros" the pan to the individual scale to begin with, so you are following the correct procedure.

However, not all plastic pans are made from static-free plastic. You will notice that hardly any of the better scales use plastic pans. In my estimation you'd be far better off to avoid the static issue and merely form the soft aluminum pan to have a pouring spout, thus avoiding the static issue completely.

Note that re-shaping the aluminum pan does not change its weight at all.


If all else fails, this place will sell you the Ohaus aluminum scale pan with the built-in snout. http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/

OrdellRobbie
January 2, 2012, 10:34 PM
I never thought to reshape the aluminum pan but that makes sense. I live in the south where the humidity is ungodly high even today. Ive never had a problem with static ... except when i wiped everything down with a "color catcher" sheet and not the static sheet! I had a layer of powder coating the whole pan. :eek:

rfwobbly
January 2, 2012, 10:42 PM
Robbie -
I live in the South too and static is never a problem until old man winter and the dry air sets in. Then sha-zamm !! Instant problem.

That kind of one-day-it's-here, one-day-it's-gone type of issue can be un-nerving to reloaders.

gspn
January 2, 2012, 11:08 PM
How do you think that shot got in there to begin with?

If you buy a replacement pan from RCBS, you will have to do it yourself.

Like I said before, it's just gravity.
Just did this same thing this week. I "inherited" an RCBS 505 with no pan or hanger. I ordered the hanger (thinking it was all one piece) and discovered the I now needed a pan to go on it.

I just loaded up the hanger with the supplied lead shot until it zeroed with the pan I intended to use. No worries.

gspn
January 2, 2012, 11:09 PM
Robbie -
I live in the South too and static is never a problem until old man winter and the dry air sets in. Then sha-zamm !! Instant problem.

That kind of one-day-it's-here, one-day-it's-gone type of issue can be un-nerving to reloaders.
Ha! I'm dealing with that right now too. As I type this I'm beginning to wonder if I should run a humidifier in my reloading area...

kelbro
January 3, 2012, 08:57 AM
Good points. I use the Lyman plastic funnel pan and it does build up static. Very little humidity here in the desert. I can tell when it happens because the scale will read .3gr off and acts erratic. Wipe everything down with a used fabric softener sheet and its OK. Another good reason to cross-check loads on the beam scale.

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