What do I need to switch barrels on a Savage?


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Tim the student
January 4, 2012, 04:22 PM
The other thread got me thinking - what do you actually need to do it?

I'm aware of a barrel vise (which I understand you can make out of good hardwood), and barrel nut wrench, and a no-go gauge - is there anything else you need?

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Chawbaccer
January 4, 2012, 04:40 PM
Depending on the caliber you are switching from, you might need a bolt head and magazine.

Tim the student
January 4, 2012, 04:41 PM
^^ Yeah, I knew about that stuff too, but I didn't include it in my OP.

Jim Watson
January 4, 2012, 06:19 PM
You need a Go gauge and do not necessarily need a No-Go gauge.
You screw the barrel in against a Go gauge which gives you minimum headspace, then tighten the nut which draws it slightly off the gauge. Usually about .0015".
If you want a No-Go gauge for a double check, that is fine, but I did not find it necessary.
If you get one, be sure you use them in the right order.

MtnCreek
January 4, 2012, 06:21 PM
Action wrench, torque wrench that fits the barrel nut wrench and anti-seize grease.

Edit: I purchased Wheeler Eng action wrench and nut wrench from MidwayUSA. That action wrench attaches at the front of the receiver. I've heard stories about folks twisting the reciever using other means of removal so I wouldn't cut corners there.

Boanerges57
January 4, 2012, 06:33 PM
If you have one of the new savages you need a pipe wrench and a new nut. The smooth nut is hard to torque properly anyway so just use the pipe wrench to remove it and replace it with one of the old style grooved nuts and a wrench designed for them.

redbullitt
January 4, 2012, 07:10 PM
Mine used the older nut, so that wheeler wrench worked well on them. i have a barrel vise too, which helped make it very easy.

WYcoyote
January 4, 2012, 07:34 PM
I made my own barrel vise and skipped the action wrench. I soaked the barrel nut with Kroil for a week or so and then used a heat gun to warm the nut, a light wrap with a hammer on my Wheeler barrel nut wrench and it broke loose.
To set my headspace to match my sizing die I first set it with a go-gage and checked it with a .002" shim slipped behind the case head to simulate a no go. I then fired one round and resized the case with my sizing die, and reset my headspace using that. I then repeated the no go check with the .002" shim.
You may or may not be able to use factory loaded cartridges using this method, not a factor for me because I handload only.
You do end up with your headspace custom matched to your own sizing die to minimize brass fatigue.
I did also use a light coat of anti-sieze on the threads, and snugged the nut with a tap of a hammer.

http://i368.photobucket.com/albums/oo121/mjkbpics/Guns/barrelvise001.jpg

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