[SimplyChad]

Im thinking of getting my first can any one have any suggestions? The weapon im most likly to try first is either my 10/22 or my 1911. I really have no idea the steps of rules in this area of firearms fun and restrictions.
Thanks

Another thing how long is the wait to get one after i pay?

[mtrmn]

First off, read read read on this forum. Silencer Talk and Snipers Hide are very good ones as well. Bear in mind on any other forum you may get offended by the way they treat one another. Most of the suppressor manufacturer websites have a FAQ or legalities page with simple step-by-step processes lined out for you.

The 1022 would be the simplest and cheapest project to begin on, and a lot cheaper on ammo. Once you go quiet, you'll be spending a lot more on ammo cuz it's just downright fun.

I don't know but from what I've read the auto pistols which don't have a fixed barrel are a lot more "involved" in getting everything to work properly with the extra weight added to the barrel. Considerably more money as well.

As for the wait, I'm seeing 4 to 7 months from what everyone posts on the "NFA wait times" threads. Mine was between 5 and 6 months.

[Ranb]

Silencers are civilian legal in AL, AR, AK, AZ, CO, CT, FL, GA, ID, IN, KS, KY, LA, ME, MI, MD, MO, MS, MT, NE, NV, NH, NM, NC, ND, OH, OK, OR, PA, SC, SD, TN, TX, UT, VA, WA, WV, WI, and WY. There is a $200 tax to pay to the ATF and approval takes about 4 months now.

Here is a link to silencer manufacturers; http://www.silencertests.com/links.htm

Any silencer will work well on a 22lr 10/22. I would base my decision on cost, size and whether or not it comes apart for cleaning as the 22lr is very dirty. The Osprey and TiRant are the best ones for the 45acp pistols in my opinion. As said above, www/silencertalk.com is a great forum for advice.

Ranb

[Telekinesis]

I don't know but from what I've read the auto pistols which don't have a fixed barrel are a lot more "involved" in getting everything to work properly with the extra weight added to the barrel. Considerably more money as well.

Most of the pistol suppressors made for 9/.40/.45 pistols will have a Nielsen device which allows pistols with browning locking designs (1911s, sigs, glocks, HKs, etc) to work. The Osprey and TiRant will both come with one.

For a first can, I would go with one for your 10/22. .22 suppressors are usually a good bit cheaper than a center fire pistol suppressor (on the order of $300 vs $500-800) and a suppressed 22 will be much quieter than a center fire pistol will be.

Center fire pistol wise, 9mms usually suppress better than the other calibers, especially if you use subsonic ammo (147gr and up). If you want to find a pretty cool and affordable suppressor for your 1911, take a look at Thompson Machine. They have some nice wiped micro-suppressors that are around $300-400.

I've heard the wait is around 6 months or so right now. There's no statutory "waiting period" other than when the ATF returns your paperwork, so the wait can vary.

[SimplyChad]

ok well I have 1200 for 2. So i could realisticly get both or is there a one at a time thing?

[blume357@bellsouth.net]

You might can get by with both with that amount... depends on your dealer and how much he will discount two cans...

I just jumped into this and my first one is going to cost right at $710.

$375 for the suppressor
$125 to thread one barrel for a 10/22
$200 to the gubment
$10 for finger prints
also so far 3 hours invested in all this.

i was told the suppressor for a semiauto pistol is more expensive because it has to have some kind of spring thingy on the threaded part...

keep in mind even though once you have a 'can' and then can move it from barrel to barrel assuming it is large enough to take the caliber, each barrel has to be threaded for it.

[Ranb]

$125 for threading a barrel with 1/2-28 threads? Sounds like a lot of money.

The only semi-auto firearms that need a recoil booster (linear de-coupler, Nielsen device, springing thing) installed are those on Browning and modified Browning recoil operated firearms. The barrel on these guns tilts and the additional weight on the barrel interferes with this motion. The spring de-couples the weight of the silencer from the barrel usually allowing it to function properly without using a lighter spring.

There are no purchase limitations on NFA firearms.

Ranb

[mtrmn]

Sent my post-ban AR15 bbl to YHM to be threaded, since that's who made my308 suppressor. With shipping and all it was about $80.
A lot of people recommend ADCO as well. A threaded replacement barrel is another option if the charges to thread yours get very high.

I use the 308 suppressor on my AR308 and all my numerous AR15's with QD adapters. Works just as well on the 223's as the 308.

[JustinJ]

When I consider that a $200 tax stamp is required per device i can't justify getting a .22 rated can. Just go with one of the lighter 5.56 for more vesatility.

[Saakee]

http://www.libertycans.net/mystic.html

[Ranb]

When you are thinking of the $200 tax, also think of how long you will own it and how much ammo you will put though it. I put about $100 (3000 rounds) of ammo a year through my 22lr can alone.

Although I spend less on my homemade silencers, the amount I spend on ammo for each suppressed firearm will far exceed the cost of the silencer.

Ranb

[BellyUpFish]

When I consider that a $200 tax stamp is required per device i can't justify getting a .22 rated can. Just go with one of the lighter 5.56 for more vesatility.

You don't know what you'll be missing.

5.56 is still going to be "loud" unless you find sub-sonic rounds.

My Spectre is my favorite toy. Thinking about an Osprey 9 next..

[JustinJ]

5.56 is still going to be "loud" unless you find sub-sonic rounds.

Why can't one fire sub-sonic .22 rounds through a 5.56 can?

[BellyUpFish]

Why can't one fire sub-sonic .22 rounds through a 5.56 can?

Most 5.56 cans are not user serviceable, as they don't get all dirtied up like a .22 can will, so there is no point.

.22lr cans need to be cleaned. 5.56 cans don't.

If you want a multi-purpose can, check out the Liberty Mystic. If I could use it on 7.62, I'd get one.

[JustinJ]

Most 5.56 cans are not user serviceable, as they don't get all dirtied up like a .22 can will, so there is no point.

.22lr cans need to be cleaned. 5.56 cans don't.

I've heard that there are some .22 rounds that don't deposit lead at the rates of common rounds. Also, is there any reason a .22 sovlent couldn't be used to rinse out an unserviceable can?

[BellyUpFish]

There are .22 rounds that are less dirty than others, but I'm not aware of any really "clean" .22 ammo..

.22 solvent? Lots of guys use "the dip" on stainless cans. You can't clean an aluminum can with it, as it will eat the can.

Here is my Spectre after a couple thousand rounds.. You don't want anything to do with a .22 can you can't clean.

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l615/GnomeyLou/Things%20that%20go%20BOOM/Spectre%20Cleaning/DSC_0383.jpg

[crazy-mp]

I've heard that there are some .22 rounds that don't deposit lead at the rates of common rounds. Also, is there any reason a .22 solvent couldn't be used to rinse out an unserviceable can?

All rim fire ammo is dirty ammo. The worst is .22 MAG because of its slow burning powder. Normal .22 ammo will dirty a gun up at an accelerated rate when shooting suppressed because more gas is being pushed back through the action particularly with semi-auto's because the gas is trying to escape through the path of least resistance.

Depending on what type of solvent you are talking about but some will eat the finish off suppressors and some are hard on aluminum such as the "dip" mentioned above. Another problem with using solvents or solutions inside a suppressor is the gas and lead will cake on the walls and baffles/mono core and will not simply wash off, and if any liquid is left in the tube that will cause expanding gas to stick to those particles and gum up for lack of a better term.

This is why some of the sealed can guys shoot wet .22 suppressors. In theory when shooting with a grease or gel the gas and lead will become suspended in the wet media. Every time you fire another round a small amount of the media will come out behind the bullet as long as the suppressor does not "run dry" nothing will build up. In theory, nothing has been proven 100%.

[Strykervet]

Well, you got a lot of reading to do, I'll agree with that. But I'll tell you what I did.

1. Get a trust. First thing, don't do anything else, just go get a trust, but get one from a reputable lawyer that works with NFA laws and such --not just any estate attorney will do. So you can check around or PM some of us and we can point you in the right direction --my attorney is in WA, but I bet he knows one in (your state). It makes it all so much easier, makes protecting your family easier, less hassle purchasing NFA items, better than a will to distribute your arms post death, etc., and then some.

2. I went with a 762-SDN-6 for my first can. I have mounts on a 5.56, 6.5, .308, and soon, .300BLK and maybe another .308. Basically, this can will work on most of my gear, so why not get that first? I just turned in all the papers and will pay for it on Monday and start the wait.

3. The S&H integrally suppressed MkII I fired in the '90's was the quietest pistol I've ever heard or shot. Quieter than an airgun, only sound was the bullet hitting the can we were shooting. I'm getting one of those as soon as we get the SDN-6 handled. S&H also makes integral 10/22's, I didn't shoot that particular model when I had the chance, but I'd bet they are wicked quiet just from the looks. His stuff can be disassembled and cleaned. You NEED this for .22's.

I don't know much about suppressing pistols and such, so I'll stop here. Most of my suppressor experience was in the army on M4's (and those were just quiet enough to make an M4 sound like a 10/22) and I got to play with all those S&H weapons when I put an alarm in for a Class3 dealer in FL.

This is the short of it for me. You have a lot of reading and learning to do though.