[italian biker]

I did a search and did not find anything. I have been reloading handguns for a long time, and I'm starting to collect enough brass to start reloading for my AR. I only intend to reload facory rounds. So far, I've only used Federal or Remington 55gr FMJ. None of it is mil spec. I may start buying the American Eagle AE223 by Federal because it's on sale alot more, and usually those sales put it at $3.00 less for a box of 20 then the other two. I probably won't reload any surplus rounds that I buy, so swaging to get rid of the military crimp won't be necessary.
But I have some questions about reloading rifle rounds in general.
1. Can I use other brand primers in that brass, such as Winchesters in my brass or Federal primers in the Remngton brass, etc?

2. When reloading for rifle brass, I know I have to lube the case before I resize and deprime. Do I need to clean the lube off before the the neck sizing die, and do I need to lube the case neck before the neck sizing die?

3. And then what steps should be performed first, case trimming to length or the inside and outside neck turning?

[Cmeboston]

You can use any primer brand in any case, I prefer the CCI brand. If you are using an AR you will need to full length resize, not just the neck. You do need to clean off the lube after resizing, I use mineral spirits.
You also need to check the length of the case and trim it if it's over the max allowed.


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[LoonWulf]

Do you have a reloading manual? If so i highly suggest you read thru the "reloading rifle cartridges" section, pretty much all good manuals have some basic guide lines. If not id suggest you get a decent manual.

1. Small rifle primers dosent mater the brand, tho as usual watch for magnum and standard, for .223 size cases (and others)

2. and 3. lube your case lightly outside and the inside of the neck (if you dont lube the inside of the neck you WILL stick a case in your die), resize/deprime them (neck sizing or full length sizing), check and trim if necessary, wash lube off (I like RCBS lube and a zip lock for lubing cases) I use hot water and soap, then a quick soak in viniger to get rid of tarnish. I dont think youll need to turn necks unless your looking for absolute accuracy. Its alot more work then is necessary for most applications.

[Josh45]

1. You can use ant brand of primer in any brand of brass. I have and have had no issues with that anyways.

2. You need to lube the case when you go to FL size. Being for an AR, You would need to if I am not mistaken. After you resize and deprime in your FL die, then you need to remove the lube off the case. Either wipe it off or tumble them for 20-30 min.

3.You need to trim first, Then use the deburring tool for the inside of the case mouth, Then outside.

[TygerAR]

1. Most people will recommend the CCI NATO primers for ARs. I would start with that first if you have a standard AR.

2,3. What I like to do is store my cases cleaned and ready for powder and bullet. So when I'm ready to charge and seat, it's the only thing I'm focused on. I first deprime with a universal deprimer. About $10 to $15. Next I tumble. I give the primer pockets a little cleaning as I drop them into the tumbler. Clean cases are easier on the sizing die. Then I dip them in a sonic cleaner for one cycle. Cleans the primer pocket and inside the case. Also cleans the tumble media off. A quick was with water is fine too. When the cases are dry, I lube with a pad and neck brush. I check the cases for damage as i pick them up to be lubed. Then they go through the resize die. I use a gauge to check the cases as they come off the press. The cases that need to be trimmed are set a side. Then trimmed. All the cases go into the sonic cleaner for 2 more cycles. When Dry, I prime. And the cases are put in boxes and stored. Sounds like a lot of work but the case prep is like a assembly line style and then seating is like custom work.

At any given time, I have at lest 500 cases of each caliber stored and ready go. Case prep is messy, charging and seating takes patience. So I like to separate the days I do each. Remember, If your loading for an AR you will be seating for "Mag length" (2.250). So don't start worry about seating depth.

[res7s]

I always share this link with any new 223 loader.
http://yarchive.net/gun/ammo/223_loads.html

Reduce these loads by 10% when starting. Work up slowly and watch for the pressure signs in your manuals.

[steve4102]

You can use any brand of SR(small rifle) primers you wish. DO NOT USE Rem 6 1/2 primers.

You do not neck size after Full Length sizing. You lube the case, Full Length size and clean off the lube, no more sizing is required. I use a tumbler/corn cob to clean off lube.

Get a good manual or three and read them before you load any rounds, please.

[RustyFN]

1. Can I use other brand primers in that brass, such as Winchesters in my brass or Federal primers in the Remngton brass, etc?

You can use any brand primer you want. I have used CCI, Win and Magtech and all have worked fine.

2. When reloading for rifle brass, I know I have to lube the case before I resize and deprime. Do I need to clean the lube off before the the neck sizing die, and do I need to lube the case neck before the neck sizing die?

No you don't have to clean the lube off after you size. You won't need the neck sizer, you will need to full length resize every time you load. You will also need to check the cases after sizing to see if they need to be trimmed.

3. And then what steps should be performed first, case trimming to length or the inside and outside neck turning?

This is how I load 223.

clean brass in the tumbler
lube and size
check brass for length, trim if needed
load
tumble after loaded to remove lube

[FROGO207]

As you can see there are many ways to actually reload a rifle round. The key points are full length size for semi auto firearms. Use a primer that is not going to pierce (no pistol type) and hard enough to avoid slam fire problems in an AR (CCI NATO recommended). Try to find a propellant that fills the loaded round almost completely and is not compressed. Be sure to remove the case lube at some time as this will add life to your bolt/receiver/locking lugs. Work up your loads and try several propellants for best fit in Your rifle.:D Hope I did not leave too much out. Have fun.:cool:

Military brass has a following due to it being rugged and has long life. It is worth the hassle to ream or swage the primer pockets IMHO.

[AABEN]

I have reloaded for 30 years and never clean the case lube off of any of my brass.

[italian biker]

Do you have a reloading manual? If so i highly suggest you read thru the "reloading rifle cartridges" section, pretty much all good manuals have some basic guide lines. If not id suggest you get a decent manual.

1. Small rifle primers dosent mater the brand, tho as usual watch for magnum and standard, for .223 size cases (and others)

2. and 3. lube your case lightly outside and the inside of the neck (if you dont lube the inside of the neck you WILL stick a case in your die), resize/deprime them (neck sizing or full length sizing), check and trim if necessary, wash lube off (I like RCBS lube and a zip lock for lubing cases) I use hot water and soap, then a quick soak in viniger to get rid of tarnish. I dont think youll need to turn necks unless your looking for absolute accuracy. Its alot more work then is necessary for most applications.
LoonWulf,
It was my belief that all case necks should be checked for concnetricity and then turned if out of concentricity, and that it only has to be done once for a case. As far as accuracy, I will shoot these anywhere from 50 yards down to 10 feet during tactical practice. I don't think I need competition grade accuracy, but I want to get as accurate as possible. As you say, turning is not necessary, does the neck resizing die do that to to extent to get a good and safe bullet seat? And yes, I will get a manual, and probably the Sierra reloading video.

[arizona98tj]

(if you dont lube the inside of the neck you WILL stick a case in your die)

Hmmm....not yet I haven't....been reloading since the mid 70s....and I do not lube the inside of the neck....not on 223, .308, .303, or .30-06.

I can think of a reason to lube the inside of the neck, but sticking a case in the die isn't it.

[Walkalong]

Agreed.