Oil finish or high gloss lacquer?


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Mitchell Gard
January 29, 2012, 10:38 AM
Aside from looks what are the differences? Are either more protective? More or less durable? Which last longer? Whatever knowledge y'all have on the goods and bass of the two. Be mindful it will be on a rifle that gets used.

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Robtattoo
January 29, 2012, 10:53 AM
Oil finish for me, every time.

Upsides - It protects the wood, it's non glare, it doesn't chip or flake & you can reapply as needed with a cloth & no hassle at all.

Downsides - Doesn't protect from small dings & scratches, picks up dust & can be a pain to clean.

I've had laquered & varnished guns in the past & I'm probably never going to have another.

Upsides - Looks stunning if well done, protects the wood from minor scratches & bumps, easy to clean.

Downsides - scuffs, scratches & chips easily, once chipped water will get under, lift it off & stain the wood, looks scruffy as soon as it chips, almost impossible to touch up & if needed will have to be completely stripped & re-done. Too shiny for my tastes & gets slippery in hot, humid weather.

Just one man's opinion.

helotaxi
January 29, 2012, 10:57 AM
Just one man's opinion.
Make that two.

jimmyraythomason
January 29, 2012, 03:04 PM
What they said ^^^^

RevGeo
January 29, 2012, 03:06 PM
Oil for me too. When Weatherby rifles were first coming out it looked like the stock was dipped in molten plastic.
Nothing like a hand rubbed oil finish, IMO. Protects the wood well and looks beautiful.

George

Murphys Law
January 29, 2012, 03:14 PM
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=240961. Here's a good thread on Oil finish.

HKGuns
January 29, 2012, 03:28 PM
Oil finish for me, every time.

Me also.

788Ham
January 29, 2012, 03:32 PM
I like the oil finish also, BLO will do. If it gets to looking kind of hazy, get a double piece of burlap and buff it out.

Salmoneye
January 29, 2012, 04:25 PM
Two coats of BLO worked fine for the government and umpteen million small arms for 100+ years...

An old woodworker taught me BLO:

One Coat A Day For A Week,
One Coat A Week For A Month.
One Coat A Month For A Year,
One Coat A Year For A Lifetime,

Works on fine furniture, and that is what I consider gunstocks to be...

Fourbits
January 29, 2012, 05:06 PM
I use Tung Oil. One Coat a day. Sand with 600 grit & boiled linseed oil between coats. Doesn't fill real well but gives a great looking finish.


Fourbits

edwin41
January 29, 2012, 05:53 PM
hello
some time ago i had a rolling block rifle and i had the stock sandblasted
with some fine glassperl at a low pressure , wich came out very good.
i then painted the stock 4 maby 5 times with high gloss laquer that one
uses for wooden floors , so its very hard and not so sensitive to scratching.
when its was dry i rubbed the whole stock with some scotchbrite , to the point were the shine was completly off .
it was very goodlooking , and very , very durable and non scratching .

Stealth01
January 29, 2012, 05:59 PM
This Cooper Varmint came with a drop dead gorgeous, satin oil finish! The stock is fantastic... Oh, so is the rest of the rifle!!

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m512/kengallagher/Rifles001.jpg

Stealth01
January 29, 2012, 06:01 PM
This Cooper Varmint came with a drop dead gorgeous satin oil finish! The stock is fantastic... Oh, so is the rest of the rifle!!

http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m512/kengallagher/bba1f928.jpg

edwin41
January 29, 2012, 06:21 PM
wow , that is a coincidence !
the second picture is the gunrest im kind of duplicating....
very nice rifle too !

HKGuns
January 29, 2012, 08:30 PM
Nice Kuerig!

Jdillon
January 29, 2012, 10:01 PM
Most finishes today are are either oils or polyurethane based. Polyurethane seals the wood better than oil from moisture but dings turn white and is difficult to do spot repairs and yellows and sometimes will alligator.

Oils such as linseed and tung penetrate the wood, beautiful and easy to apply and repairs. Despite common beliefs, linseed oil, BLO or otherwise, tung oil will permit moisture to enter the pores of the wood and never completely dry.

Polymerized tung oil varnish does an excellent job and will dry to a hard but flexible finish that will provide a high level of water resistance.

I have been a woodworker for over 35 years and when finishing high end pieces, Polymerized tung oil finishes are my preference. BTW if your looking for high quality finishes, check a woodworking store and not the sporting goods store.

That's my 2 cent contribution.

jimmyraythomason
January 29, 2012, 10:46 PM
BTW if your looking for high quality finishes, check a woodworking store and not the sporting goods store.I would suggest a gunsmith supply house such as Brownell's over either a sporting goods store or a woodworking store. One of my favorites is Brownell's Professional finish. It is a blend of oils and polyurethanes. It combines the best properties of both and one 8 oz can will do a LOT of stocks.

6x6pinz
January 29, 2012, 11:24 PM
boiled in linseed oil and pledge mix. lots of coats. The wood will thank you for many, many years. Can be reapplied as needed over the years.

High gloss finishes seal the wood and will not allow it to breathe. The wood grain will move with varying humidities and temperatures causing the high gloss to either crack or separate. I know that the high gloss has a certain appeal but it requires much more attention to care when out of the safe.

Freedom_fighter_in_IL
January 30, 2012, 01:45 AM
I have been a woodworker for over 35 years and when finishing high end pieces, Polymerized tung oil finishes are my preference. BTW if your looking for high quality finishes, check a woodworking store and not the sporting goods store.


I would suggest a gunsmith supply house such as Brownell's over either a sporting goods store or a woodworking store.

Been doing higher end stocks for well over 25 years now and I have to agree with Jdillon here. Smiths, Sporting goods stores and the likes all do exactly what the "gun oil" suppliers do. They buy regular oil, slap some red dye in it, put it in tiny 2 ounce bottles, label it with anything saying GUN on it, sell it for 8 bucks a pop.

When it comes to beautiful grain popping finishes as well as durable, well protected finishes, PTO (poly tung oil) sealer/varnish does an excellent job. Just finishing up a really nice English Walnut stock for a customer with it. It's all in the application though. You don't just sand it down, slap a few coats on it and you are done. There is a very delicate process of finishing sanding between coats to raise the grain and fill the pores. It takes me approximately 30 days to do a stock properly. It can be done in less time if it's just for a beater and you aren't that finicky. But if you want a beautiful, durable, eye popping finish, it will take a while to do it right.

madcratebuilder
January 30, 2012, 08:11 AM
Most finishes today are are either oils or polyurethane based. Polyurethane seals the wood better than oil from moisture but dings turn white and is difficult to do spot repairs and yellows and sometimes will alligator.

Oils such as linseed and tung penetrate the wood, beautiful and easy to apply and repairs. Despite common beliefs, linseed oil, BLO or otherwise, tung oil will permit moisture to enter the pores of the wood and never completely dry.

Polymerized tung oil varnish does an excellent job and will dry to a hard but flexible finish that will provide a high level of water resistance.

I have been a woodworker for over 35 years and when finishing high end pieces, Polymerized tung oil finishes are my preference. BTW if your looking for high quality finishes, check a woodworking store and not the sporting goods store.

That's my 2 cent contribution.


+1

I use linseed oil on my mil-surps but any other wood is finished with PTO. PTO stabilizes the wood surface making it more resistant to dents and dings. Touch up is very quick and easy.

jimmyraythomason
January 30, 2012, 08:20 AM
if you want a beautiful, durable, eye popping finish, it will take a while to do it right. This is true no matter what type of finish you use.

303tom
January 30, 2012, 11:04 AM
Oil...........

6x6pinz
January 30, 2012, 07:08 PM
I actually have a 410 shotgun stock that is in the final stages of sanding. I might have to give the PTO stuff a try. You never know sometimes they actually make things better than in the olden days.

BrocLuno
January 30, 2012, 07:59 PM
The finish depends on the rifle. A older Remington or Browning deserves a high gloss finish as that's what they came with. I think (but am not sure?) that what is being referred to as polymerized Tung Oil is the same, or similar to, conversion varnish? If so, that's a pretty durable finish from a wear and tear standpoint.

If starting with a bare wood stock (new, or refinish) I like to soak the wood with penetrating epoxy as a first coat if I'm not absolutely focused on color and figure. It adds a bit of yellow/gold to the final look. But it seals out water as well as anything. Then I use Tung Oil on top of that to build up the final look and feel. Usually about 10 to 20 coats wet sanded in between. You can rub oil to a high sheen, or buff it back to satin. And it's easy to touch up :)

Mitchell Gard
January 30, 2012, 09:04 PM
Well this is a lot to take in, I'm leaning for the oils but as I can tell there is a Lot more into it than I originally thought. Seeing as though I'm going for a Sako 85 deluxe when I get back from deployment, what steps would I take upon purchase to preserve the stock? Does it come finished to an acceptable point or are more layers needed? And what would your suggestions be for learning more about the steps to doing all the stock work?

Jdillon
January 31, 2012, 01:14 AM
If you are looking for a high quality PTO, you may want to look at some of Sutherland Wells products. Been using them for years on furniture I have built and have not found a better wiping varnish Behlen also makes very high grade finishes. They both can be found online from various vendors.

Doc Rizzi
January 31, 2012, 01:24 AM
I use a mixture of 1/3 BLO, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 gum turpentine melted in a double boiler over an electric burner. Pour it into a glass or metal wide mouth container and let it cool to a semi-hard paste. It makes for a beautiful old world finish.

Freedom_fighter_in_IL
January 31, 2012, 01:34 AM
Mitchell, the stock on a Deluxe Sako is to be rivaled by very few. That rosewood end cap and inlays are beautiful. They use a very durable finish and there is nothing more to do to them other than keep them clean and conditioned.

madcratebuilder
January 31, 2012, 07:12 AM
I use a mixture of 1/3 BLO, 1/3 beeswax, and 1/3 gum turpentine melted in a double boiler over an electric burner. Pour it into a glass or metal wide mouth container and let it cool to a semi-hard paste. It makes for a beautiful old world finish.
That's the mix for Tom's Gunstock wax (http://thegunstockdoctor.com/).

Doc Rizzi
February 2, 2012, 12:16 AM
Thanks MadCrateBuilder! I had found that recipe on the Internet years ago and they did not give credit to that website. I just figured it was an old homemade hand me down recipe. It makes a beautiful finish on furniture and gun stocks. It won't protect against dings or scratches, but it gives the wood a nice look.

Oceanbob
February 2, 2012, 12:34 AM
Recently bought a cheap $74 dollar bare wood stock from BOYDS and decided to do Oil first and a cheap Outdoor polyurethane top coat that I bought from Home Depot for 6 bucks. (4 sanded coats) I must admit, the stock came out better that I expected. This is just a carbine I carry in my TRUNK and I wanted something that would take abuse. (with not much $ invested). :D

The polyurethane is hard as nails; no dings, looks good. Water proof. As the years go by touch up is easy if needed. People at the range like the looks. In a Black-Plastic Tacticool world, a laminated wood stock is a pleasing to the eyes.





http://i43.tinypic.com/k380sx.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/2na8fok.jpg

oldpapps
February 2, 2012, 10:21 AM
My preference is oil.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=158140&stc=1&d=1328192447

MGRAY
February 2, 2012, 09:35 PM
I purchased this unfinshed walnut stock from Boyds years ago. Used Minwax stain then had my local body shop spray 3 coats of automotive clearcoat. I sanded with 1500 grit and buffed it out to glass like finish. Has never dulled down or been softend by solvents.

ColtPythonElite
February 2, 2012, 09:40 PM
Finally said something about automotive clear...That is what I would use on a rifle that is gonna get used and used hard.

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