Broke my model 625 today

This morning i was watching my 12 year old son demolish targets with my S&W 625-3 (his favorite) and i noticed something pop up in the air near him and land at his feet.

My first thought was that it was a piece of plastic from the target, but when he finishes firing i see him go to emty the cylinder, then look over at me with a concerned "what the heck?" type of look on his face.

He points to where the cylinder release should be and its missing...completely gone and i can see the part on the inside of the frame to which it used to be fastened.

What i saw pop up near him was the cylinder release as it departed the gun. At his feet We found both the release and the head of the sheared allen screw thar failed.

The screw is sheared cleanly leaving e nothing to grab onto. My first thought is that this will have to be drilled out. Any experience with this type of issue?

empty it and return for warranty
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Category4_750001_750051_757819_-1_757814_757812_image

be easier and cheaper to just replace the part where it's screwed into

Thanks DPRICE...I don't think I would have come up with that idea to just replace the part...simple but genius.

cheaper,too

Parts are avalable from Brownells.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=628/schematicsdetail/N-Frame-625-3

You should be able to pick the broken stud out of the cap nut with a sharp scribe so you don't have to buy it too.

Not sure about the Allen-Screw part though.
They didn't make it that way.
The cap nut has a slotted head for a screwdriver

rc

Being a -3 this would have forged parts.
Did this revolver have a after market cylinder release?
I have seen some that were pretty big thumb releases and now i'm wondering if the added weight and ability to use more force would overload the threaded stud on the bolt.
Another possibility is some time in the past someone may have struck the release to unlock the cylinder if the ejector rod was unscrewed.
Heat the broken stud if you try and pick it out. Many of us use Loktite on that part.

RC - you are correct...it's a standard screw. My memory was hazy on it...I just grabbed the parts and put them in the bag...when I was inspecting a few minutes ago I found that it's just a regular slot.

You know your Smiths!

I'm afraid I'm "screwed" on this one. The shank broke below the surface of the piece into which it screws. I don't know if that is the original cylinder release or not.


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7031/6785307417_3602ac31ae.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bernankefed/6785307417/)
625 p1 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bernankefed/6785307417/) by scarfam (http://www.flickr.com/people/bernankefed/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6785307533_4f9c831215.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bernankefed/6785307533/)
625 p2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bernankefed/6785307533/) by scarfam (http://www.flickr.com/people/bernankefed/), on Flickr

I'm afraid I'm "screwed" on this one. The shank broke below the surface of the piece into which it screws.


RCmodel meant the cap is just that - a cap on top of a threaded shank that's part of the bolt itself. You just need a new bolt. And unscrew the cap from the broken off shank. Clearer in the photos in posts 6 & 7 here:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=397027

BTW, if you re-install the bolt yourself, the thread above is invaluable.

Thank you MrBorland. That kind of blows me away that it's just a cap. I thought for sure it was a regular bolt. After reading your post I grabbed that part and started walking toward my vise to see if I could figure it out...and the cap came off by hand. Sweet.

Thanks for the link to the pics...those will be very helpful.

send it in to Smith and i'm sure they fix it for free....