removing 10/22 Fr sight


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needmorecowbell
January 30, 2012, 10:55 PM
Ok, so I've spent 2 nights now, about a total of an hour and a half, trying to remove the front sight on my 10/22 so I can install the Tech Sights I bought. I used liquid wrench penetrating oil last night and sprayed a bunch of it so would hopefully loosen it up for tonight, but still no budging. I'm using a steel punch and rubber mallet and tapping (sometimes violently striking in rage) the left side of the sight. Don't have a brass punch, would that matter? Gun barrel is supported just before the sight and I'm kneeling on the forend so the rifle doesn't move. Any ideas from anyone how I can get this thing out other than dremeling into the sight or taking to a gunsmith?

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MrCleanOK
January 30, 2012, 11:05 PM
Sounds like this job is exceeding your skillset and toolset. I would take it to a smith.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk

greyling22
January 31, 2012, 12:01 AM
Bigger Hammer!!!!!

but really, use a real hammer. When pulled mine, I put my front sight on a 2x4, used a brass punch and a 16oz hammer. Seems like the rubber mallet wouldn't transfer much energy into the punch.

Shawn Dodson
January 31, 2012, 01:26 AM
Use a steel hammer. The rubber mallet is absorbing the impact.

Make sure the barrel is absolutely stationary.

I use a 4" brass bolt as a brass "punch".

madcratebuilder
January 31, 2012, 06:09 AM
It could have had thread locker applied, heat the head of the screw with a soldering gun.

bigfatdave
January 31, 2012, 01:16 PM
Ditch the rubber mallet, keep the steel punch, use a very solid surface and have someone hold the gun steady

I've done three Tech Sight installs, and only one required any real effort on the front sight, and that last one was like yours.

If you absolutely cannot get it out with any reasonable force, cut the sight in half from the top ... a replacement is inexpensive if you ever want to return to stock (but you won't ever want to return to stock after you get the TS unit dialed in)

Certaindeaf
January 31, 2012, 01:25 PM
I'm not a gunsmith by any means but I usually drive out dovetails from right to left.

henschman
January 31, 2012, 01:32 PM
I agree with ditching the rubber mallet. I bet if you switch to a regular hammer you will be amazed at how easy it pops out, if you've been giving it hell with that rubber one! ;) Been there, done that! ;)

Red Cent
January 31, 2012, 02:50 PM
Between the rubber mallet and not totally immobilizing the barrel you may take a long time.
If you can accurately swing the hammer, it is not too big. Holding the punch on the side of the sight, the worst thing will happen you will knock it out with the first solid strike.
Not having it in a vise will cause the barrel to roll/torque away from the blow and you will lose force.

RetDep310
January 31, 2012, 03:43 PM
Had a gunsmith remove my front sight. He said it was attached with solder, and was in there pretty tight.

bigfatdave
January 31, 2012, 03:49 PM
I've removed three 10/22 carbine style* front sights ... not a one of them was held in by anything but a tight fit




*(two "carbines" one "international")

HarcyPervin
January 31, 2012, 03:57 PM
10 words you NEED to stop misspelling

Perfection.

Mikee Loxxer
January 31, 2012, 03:58 PM
+1 on what bigfatdave said. I had a lot of trouble getting the front sight on my 10/22 to move as well. What worked was using dremel tool to place one vertical cut in the sight then drifting it out with a Williams sight pusher. The vertical cut reduces the amount of friction between the sight and the dovetail (allows it to flex).

needmorecowbell
January 31, 2012, 11:00 PM
Switched to a real hammer and it popped right out. From seeing the smaller brass/nylon hammers that came with the gunsmith punch kits I just thought for some reason a big hammer was too much. Now I know better. Thanks for all the feedback. My new Tech Sights look great.

CraigC
February 1, 2012, 11:36 AM
Yep, it's hard to believe how hard you can pound on something like that and it won't budge unless it's completely immobilized and you use a steel or brass hammer. Although sometimes you find a little surprise under the sight, like a big burr or metal shaving that was smeared into the slot.


I'm not a gunsmith by any means but I usually drive out dovetails from right to left.
That's the opposite direction you should be doing it. Drive sights in or out from the right side.

bigfatdave
February 1, 2012, 12:22 PM
From seeing the smaller brass/nylon hammers that came with the gunsmith punch kits I just thought for some reason a big hammer was too much.well ... a fullsize hammer is overkill, but a soft mallet is just going to absorb the impact instead of transmitting it as a single impulse.
You can use an oversize hammer carefully, but you can't make a squishy hammer into a rigid one.

...
... well, I suppose you could freeze it or something

tominct
February 1, 2012, 06:18 PM
bigfatdave
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Join Date: July 13, 2008
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Posts: 3,882 Quote:
From seeing the smaller brass/nylon hammers that came with the gunsmith punch kits I just thought for some reason a big hammer was too much.

well ... a fullsize hammer is overkill, but a soft mallet is just going to absorb the impact instead of transmitting it as a single impulse.
You can use an oversize hammer carefully, but you can't make a squishy hammer into a rigid one.


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DDawg
February 2, 2012, 10:19 AM
+1 for punch sight from left to right.
I put tech sights on my 10/22 about a year ago, and I seem to remember reading about this. Mine went on without a fuss.
Good luck

sixgunner455
February 2, 2012, 12:08 PM
Huh. Mine fell out. While I was shooting, with a scope.

Didn't notice for a couple of days.

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