First time Parkerizing help


February 2, 2012, 10:18 AM
Hello all,

I recently wanted to get into Parkerizing my own guns so I set out to gather all of the required material and did a lot of reading on how to correctly parkerize firearms.

Well I finally got to the point that I could parkerize my first gun, for the first run I decided to try it on an inexpensive Mosin Nagant. Well as you can see I got some interesting results, I do not understand how such a defined line could appear around the receiver.

I took all of the required precautions when preparing the gun I degreased it, bead blasted it and used gloves the whole time. I made sure the Parkerizing solution what properly seasoned and at the correct temp.

Have any of you ever seen anything like this before, what am i doing wrong. (
photo 1 ( by sharab85 (, on Flickr (
photo 3 ( by sharab85 (, on Flickr (
photo 2 ( by sharab85 (, on Flickr

Thank you in advance for your help.

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February 2, 2012, 11:06 AM
Here is my homemade parkerizing setup.

This was my first time welding so I know there are some ugly welds. :o

And pardon the mess I have cleaned up my garage since I took that picture. (
photo 1(1) ( by sharab85 (, on Flickr (
photo 2(1) ( by sharab85 (, on Flickr

February 2, 2012, 07:08 PM
the dark part of your receiver insicates that it was annealed by dipping it into molten lead(as was some of our m-1 rifles) for what reasonn I do not know. is the tank that you put the park soulution in, stainless? If not the dark part could be where the solution drew from the mild steel.

February 2, 2012, 07:28 PM
Yes, the tank with the park solution in it is SS, the other is mild steel for water or degreaser.

I have heard of Garands being lead dipped but never a Mosin Nagants.

So is this something that i am going to have to live with or is there any way to even out the park on lead dipped rifles?

I guess I have a rare lead dipped mosin nagant that should fetch a premium price on the open market right.....:rolleyes:

Thank you for your help.

February 3, 2012, 09:23 AM
It's just the heat treatment line. Older 1911 slides do the same thing. No way of evening it out that I know of. You could Gunkote it in parker color.

February 3, 2012, 11:06 AM
As an amateur parkerizer, I've not run into the annealing/heat treat line that you show. I deal only with Mauser firearms so far.
Although your parkerized metal colors differ, your whole purpose of protecting the metal from rusting has likely been achieved, and you only need to apply a coating of your choice to seal and beautify the metal, as mentioned.


February 3, 2012, 11:35 AM
Thanks for your help, I plan on re-parking the gun anyway because there where some other spots on the barrel where it looked like I might have gotten some oil on my gloves and transferred it to the firearm.

For my next run I plan on adding another degreasing session after it comes out of the blast cabinet and changing gloves frequently.

I am also having problems with my mild steel tank, it seems to form rust bubbles in the water as soon as I start to heat it up.

Howard Roark
February 3, 2012, 04:03 PM
Interesting thread. Nice set-up Shara.

I've had simular results when parking old military metal. I did a batch of 12 or so of Rem 514 T rifles and one receiver didn't take the solution what-so-ever. A M1 carbine did the same thing once. Never knew why.

I don't think that degreasing is necessary. I've played with just how far do I go with degreasing. Now I only bead blast, blow off the dust and dunk-em with no ill effects.

February 3, 2012, 04:53 PM
Thanks Roark,

Do you think I could just pull it out of the solution early to try and get a lighter finish that might blend better, or do you think that would just result in a sub-par park job that would not last as long?

Howard Roark
February 3, 2012, 05:22 PM
I think that it would be sub-par. It would be nice to know what process was used to park those problem parts to begin with. I've just never been motivated enough to find out why and how.

February 3, 2012, 05:34 PM
ya that is what I was afraid of.

February 3, 2012, 08:21 PM
If your not already using it, zink based solution is better than manganese base for obscuring lines like that. Its more affective as a rust preventative too.

February 4, 2012, 05:26 PM
No, I am using the Lauer Manganese solution. I might order some zink solution and give that a try.

Thanks gor your help.

February 5, 2012, 05:58 PM
Nice job and that looks like a well laid out and built set-up, where are you located.

February 5, 2012, 06:04 PM
Thanks, I got the idea for the cart off of another forum.

I am located in southern IL in the Marion, Carbondale area.

February 5, 2012, 06:54 PM
I've heard of some people using a pre or post black treatment, it helps get that deep black. The google should be able to show you where and how.

February 6, 2012, 11:23 PM
I will have to give the pre-dip a try when I save up for it, that stuff is not cheap.

February 7, 2012, 10:12 AM
make sure you tell your local police dept what your doing, had a guy here doing park finishes that they tried to bust for a meth lab lol. just FYI to not have any headaches

February 7, 2012, 10:13 AM
is that dark part on the front of the reciever or the rear? if its the front its probally just where it was heat treated to hold the chamber pressure.

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