Demos
February 9, 2012, 09:18 PM
Hi guys,
I asked my lgs how long they were willing to hold onto a pistol before it was picked up (I had to wait 4 months to get my last pistol purchasing permit) because I was looking to have a P38 shipped their from AimSurplus. The owner then mentioned he knew someone who was looking to sell one for $540 with a holster (the from price from Aim is 539.95 for a WWII Spree Werke with dark barrels and without a holster) and that all the numbers were supposed to match. That is all I know about it and I am going back on Monday to take a look at it. What should I be looking for in a P38 considering my ideal one is a WWII era shooter bearing in mind that all I know about them at this point is that if it isn't a steel frame, it isn't WWII era. So what parts should have serial numbers that should be matching, which manufacturers are worth more, are there any common problems with them that I should be looking out for, and how can I check to see if the holster is original and not a repo?
Thanks,
Demos
I asked my lgs how long they were willing to hold onto a pistol before it was picked up (I had to wait 4 months to get my last pistol purchasing permit) because I was looking to have a P38 shipped their from AimSurplus. The owner then mentioned he knew someone who was looking to sell one for $540 with a holster (the from price from Aim is 539.95 for a WWII Spree Werke with dark barrels and without a holster) and that all the numbers were supposed to match. That is all I know about it and I am going back on Monday to take a look at it. What should I be looking for in a P38 considering my ideal one is a WWII era shooter bearing in mind that all I know about them at this point is that if it isn't a steel frame, it isn't WWII era. So what parts should have serial numbers that should be matching, which manufacturers are worth more, are there any common problems with them that I should be looking out for, and how can I check to see if the holster is original and not a repo?
Thanks,
Demos
