On my Yugo m48, I have a nice crack (and separated at the crack) running from my receiver to my iron sights. Is there any way I can repair this by filling the crack void with some wood composite or something like that? I don't want the crack to get larger and spread to other parts! Thanks :)
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February 14, 2012, 07:06 PM
The Ordnance repair method was to use brass reinforcement pins.
These pins had extremely coarse, rounded threads that pull the crack tightly together and prevent it from coming loose or spreading.
With the pins, glues are seldom needed in the crack, and in fact, it's usually impossible to get glue into a crack.
For that, you really need one of the wood repair "super glues" that are very thin and will soak into a crack.
It will wick to the very bottom of the smallest stock crack and set up instantly.
February 18, 2012, 10:59 AM
Thanks guys! I'll grab some of the screws and that bottle you suggested. Appreciate it :)
February 18, 2012, 01:40 PM
Or use Acraglass from Brownells.
Might want to visit surplusrifleforum and read some of the stock care reference stickies. Candyman (aka GunnyUSMC on THR) has a lot of great suggestion and tutorials over there.
February 19, 2012, 12:15 PM
Well what would be better to use? Acraglass or the pins + hot stuff instant glue?
February 19, 2012, 12:21 PM
There is no way you can get acra-glas down to the very bottom of a tiny crack.
If you use it, you would need to grind the crack completely out and then fill the void.
Hot-Stuff has an affinity for sucking itself down into tiny cracks, clear to the bottom, and then curing instantly.
February 20, 2012, 02:49 AM
Personally I would use Acraglass, after some light refinishing you should never be able to see it. The process is explained very well here.
zdc1775, rcmodel may know something you don't... Do think about his advice.
OP, you can replace brass screws with bamboo skewer.
February 20, 2012, 09:23 PM
Good info from everybody! RC, attached is the picture of the crack. It goes all the way through the wood and not just a surface crack. Check out the picture and let me know if the screws plus the hot glue will still work. Thanks!
As you can see, the crack starts from the back of the receiver hood (all the way through the wood over the receiver) and continues up.
February 20, 2012, 10:30 PM
Acraglas, not the Gel, has worked for me. I would drill a hole on the inside of the stock, running parallel to the barrel, to get fresh wood that is not oil soaked. Masking tape on the outside of the crack. The Acraglas will flow into the crack. It will not set up super fast at 70 degrees. A little vaseline petroleum jelly on the outside over the masking tape will keep Acraglas from sticking. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1033/Product/ACRAGLAS-reg-
February 21, 2012, 03:20 AM
Thinner epoxies like standard Acraglas can get down into pretty tight spaces since they do not cure so fast they have time to travel by gravity pretty powerfully.
However I am in agreement that Hot Stuff has the best tendency to get into the tightest spaces. It is just formulated differently.
As to the suggestion bdc1775 to use the information at Surplusrifles, I would say there is nothing wrong with Candymans techniques. I was however unimpressed with the repair done on the wrist of the M1 carbine stock. Yes no screws were needed but the repair did not pull the crack back together rendering it invisible. Since it was a government war relic the brass screws could have been used and you could have said it was repaired at the arsenal that way since this was a common method. Plus it pulls the separation back together in such a way as to use the woods own structure to add the necessary toughness as opposed to relying on adhesive alone. Depends on what you are going for. Candymans methods leave no doubt about their structural integrity. They look near bombproof.
The answer to the question here is YES. Both methods will work whether you use Acraglas or Hot Stuff. That crack is in a less critical area so the brittleness of Hot Stuff will not come into play. I would not use the pins on this area though as there is just not enough meat to play with in that area of Mausers stock.
February 21, 2012, 03:49 AM
The disadvantage of epoxies is that they are too thick to fill tight gaps and, more importantly, to penetrate into the wood - no matter how low viscosity certain brand of epoxy has, it's still too thick to penetrate adequate into tiny gaps. The advantage - strength. With CA glues it's exactly the opposite. In this case I would do this: sand with 80 - 100 grit inside the top hand guard where the crack is. Fill the crack with CA glue and press firmly to fill the gap. Reinforce the inside area with two - tree layers of thin cloth saturated with the epoxy of choice (Acraglas).
February 21, 2012, 08:45 AM
243 - What would the drilling be used for? Some wood shavings to mix in with the glue in the cracks?
Earthgoat - Just to clarify my intentions, I'd like a good result from the repair i do; this is a rifle I'll probably have my entire life so the better quality repair, the better! To not be able to see the crack would be best, paired with a repair job that will last :) Another question I have, though, is what about the glue that slips through the crack onto the metal? It gets hot when I shoot and I'm not sure what will happen to that glue, either melt, burn?
Mizar - Would that epoxied cloth be visible and permanent? I'd like to repair this crack in a way to restore the look of the area to the original state. What's the sanding for and how could I reseal the sanded area once I'm done?
Thank you guys!
February 21, 2012, 08:59 AM
I'm talking about the inside area of the hand guard - i.e. the area, that is touching the barrel.
February 21, 2012, 11:55 AM
This is a simple repair. If done right it will never give you trouble again.
First you will need to clean the cosmoline from the area. This is very important due to the fact that no repair will hold for long if there is any oil in the area.
Also, the handguard is made of Elm and Elm just loves to soak up oil.
You will need to use Acraglas or Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy (clear with 30 min set time) Glues are nice, but I have had to repair many stocks that had glue repairs that have failed.
First apply the resin to the area from the inside then flex the crack to work the resin into it. Then Clamp it like in the repair thread. (hog tie)
Once this is set, approx. one hour, use a dremel tool to remove some wood from inside the handguard. Cut a small strip of fiberglass colth to fit the area.
Wet the are with the resin and put the cloth in place. Apply a little more resin on top of the cloth. Once this is cured, dress it up and your done.
Here is the reason that glues don't work that good. Glue sticks to things very good, but just doesn't stick to itself very good. Most glues stay a little soft and others dry too hard. Too hard = brittle.
Glues may be fine for some things, but stocks are a little different. You will be subjecting your repair to recoil. This is a big factor in how your repair should be done.
earlthegoat2 Sorry that you were unimpressed with the repairs on the M1 Carbine wrist repair.
I've been at this for over 23 years and one thing that I will tell you, not all cracks can be pulled back together rendering it invisible. It has a lot to do with how long the stock has been cracked and how much dirt and grime has gotten into it.
The technique that I use to repair stocks, is what I call Blind Repair work. I do my best to hide the repairs so that they are not seen or very little is seen.
That M1 stock never would have been repaired by the military, it would have been thrown out.
Now I will add brass screws and wood wedges if someone wants the look of an Arsenal repair, but they are just for looks.
But I am always willing to learn something new.
But here is one that should impress you. ;)
Now I know that there is more then one way to skin a cat and even more ways to repair a stock.
But when I repair a stock, I want it to last as long as the gun or longer.
I stopped taking in stock repair work over a year ago, due to my health, thying to catch up on back log work, my own projects and enlarging my workshop. The last part is taking longer then it should. :banghead:
hexum77 Here is an offer I put out from time to time. Send the handguard to me with $5 to cover return shipping. I will repair the handguard and ship it back to you. The work will be done for free. Just PM me for my address.
February 21, 2012, 12:46 PM
243 - What would the drilling be used for? To get to fresh wood that has no oil on/in it. Remove the hand guard & work from the inside. Take this offer> hexum77 Here is an offer I put out from time to time. Send the handguard to me with $5 to cover return shipping. I will repair the handguard and ship it back to you. The work will be done for free. Just PM me for my address.
February 21, 2012, 05:48 PM
Gunny, I probably should have considered the long history of the rifle before I made the comment. These rifles were put through the ringer even if they had a crack most times. I did not mean to generalize all of your work in that one statement because what you are doing over at SurplusRifles is real thing of beauty and keep it up sir.
February 21, 2012, 07:10 PM
Oh man, Gunny! Those repairs from the links you sent me look WAY out of my league! I think I'll take you up on your offer! I have no reason to believe that you would steal my hand guard from an m48 :P
PMing now! :) You sir did excellent work on that second link.. I can't really tell from the first one, honestly.
February 21, 2012, 08:08 PM
An exceptionally gracious offer by someone who is both a craftsman and a gentleman.
You are a class act, Gunny.
February 21, 2012, 10:38 PM
mighty generous offer of time and craftsmanship!. as usual my covers off to you gunny
February 22, 2012, 12:51 AM
No offense taken. :cool: I was just picking on you. ;)
Thanks for the kind words. I belive in helping others when I can.
My shop is at my house and my over head is almost zero.
I always tell people, What goes around, comes around. When you do something out of kindness, it will always come back in one way or another.
When the handguard gets here I will try to remember to take pics of the work and post them as the work is done.
February 22, 2012, 10:55 AM
Very cool, Gunny! Pictures would be pretty cool to see :D
March 5, 2012, 07:14 PM
The Handguard got he the other day, but I didn't have much time to get to it with my boys here on the weekend and everything else that was going on.
I took these pics just after it got here.
You can see the damage better from the under side.
One reason I offered to do this repair is due to the barrel clamp. This makes the repair a little harder due to having to have to work around it.
You have to be careful when removing handguards that wrap aroung the rear sight, because you can cause more damage. But this is no biggy and will be easy to fix.
Here it is with the barrel clamp removed. You can see that there is more then one crack.
Now to start the repair.
First off there was a good bit of cosmoline in the wood that needed to be cleaned. It took two soakings with denatured alcohol to remove the cosmoline.
As you can see the back of the handguard has 5 different steps and the crack runs through all of them.
I'm going to make some cuts int the handguard so that I can reinforce the repair and prevend any other cracks from starting.
I should have some more pics tomorrow.
March 5, 2012, 10:37 PM
Woah! Didn't even know that there was more than one crack let alone the severity of it! Man, I just thought it was one easily repairable crack on the top of the hand guard!
Keep up the good work! Can't wait to see the rest :)
March 6, 2012, 12:14 PM
You said you soaked the hand guard denatured alcohol; could I do this for my stock too?
March 6, 2012, 12:36 PM
It's hard to soak a rifle stock because, you would need a very big plastic bag or PVC pipe that the stock could fit in and be capped off. And then the cost of the denatured alcohol. You would need about a gallon to soak a stock.
One way of cleaning with denatured alcohol is to do an Alcohol Scrub. You just scrub the stock with alcohol and 0000 steel wool.
I have some more pics of the work on the handguard to post when I get home. If I don't get tied up I should be able to just about finish up the repair tonight.
March 6, 2012, 06:01 PM
Back in college, I worked part-time for a gunsmith. My apartment was damaged by fire, and several of my guns got smoke and water damage. I had my grandfather's Winchester Model 12 12 ga and my father's Remington Model 12 .22 pump, both with lots of field use and wear. The gunsmith took the stocks and let them soak all day in the hot tank. Not only did it strip all the oil and finish off them, it closed up some nasty scratches and raised the dings. Some hand sanding and several hours rubbing in TruOil, and they looked great. Wish I'd taken photos before they got stolen....
March 7, 2012, 11:46 AM
Excellent! Thanks, gunny! Can't wait to see the rest :)
Teachu2, sorry to hear about your guns! I'll consider your idea as well :)
March 7, 2012, 12:49 PM
Got tied up last night with stock work and other things and didn't get a chance to post pics.
I just about have the repair finished, just have to dress it up a little.
I should be able to post the pics later today.
March 7, 2012, 06:42 PM
Due to the cracked area not being flat like handguards without the barrel clamp, I had to make small cuts into the handguard so that I could reinforce the repair.
Here you can see that I filled the screw holes for the barrel clamp with paste wax. This will allow me to make the repair and not have to redrill the holes when I am done.
I pulled some strands from some fiberglass cloth to use to reinforce the repair.
I then mixed up some Acraglas resin and applied it over the cracks.
I then flexed the crack to get the resin into it.
You can tell that your resin is all the way into the crack when it starts to come out the other side.
Now it is time to place the fiberglass strands into the cuts I made.
Once they were in place I applied some more resin over them.
Next is to place a clamp on so that the crack will close. Years ago I had an old Gunsmith show me a trick that he called a Hog Tie. This is a way to clamp a cracked handguard. You need a small flat piece of wood, wax paper and a piece of waxed string. Cover the wood with the wax paper and place it across the bottom side of the handguard, then wrap the string in a cross pattern over the piece of wood and the handguard.
This will do two things. It will pull the handguard down and in, closing the crack.
There is no need to tie a knot to hold the string in place. Just wrap it hight and then tuck the end under to hold in place.
Then just set it aside and let the resin cure.
Once the resin has cured, just unwrap the string. The wax on the string will keep it from being stuck to the handguard.
Now it's time to dress it up. I used a dremel tool with a sanding drum to trim out the extra resin.
The chip in the handguard was pretty stright forward. Apply resin to the ares and put the piece back in place. Once cured I dressed it up with the dremel tool. I also used a file to clean up the inter edge.
I still have to dress it up a bit more and put the barrel clame back in place.
I should have the handguard in the mail on Friday.
March 7, 2012, 09:20 PM
I had no idea this much work would go into making this repair! It's for sure obvious that you know what you're doing. Great work!
Although that small wood chip on the opposite side of the sight cutout from the main crack, I'm not sure that was a chip at all. I think they had that purposely pointing up for support against the gun barrel although I'm not too sure
March 7, 2012, 09:23 PM
Maybe it was a chip and I'm just stupid haha.
March 9, 2012, 05:53 PM
very nice gunny!
you did an exellent job on fixing this cracked stock !
sadly my stock also cracked recently , its was the gun pictured in "my new carbine" in the rifle section.
the crack was on both sides , about a centimeter in front of the tang screw.
when i put tension on the stock , with my hands, the crack opened up.
i didnt read this post then , so i fixed it differently , your method seems to me like the better one though.
i removed the stock , and set a siccor jack beneath the crack , on a piece of rubber . the front and the back of the stock i strapped down to the workbench
with some bands. then i slowly tensioned the jack up so the crack opened somewhat. then i sprayed a breakcleaner through the crack and blown it dry with compressed air , so no oil residu etc would be in the way.
i went to a vet to obtain a little injection ...(spout?) and a little injection needle. i bought some industrial glue , "construction glue" wich is a
"polyuretane" glue , that is very though and expands a little when drying.
since its kind of thick i ve put the gluecontainer in a pan of boiling water,
until it was thin enough to flow really well through my needle.
then i poured some glue in the injection.... and filled the cracks.
i could really see that the crackes were filled with some pressure , removed the straps and let it dry for some time . the repair is almost unvisible.
right now i am revarnishing this stock. i think my repair leaves the stock
at equal strenght as before it was cracked.
i kind of regred i didnt take pictures of my repair though.
keep up the good work !
March 10, 2012, 11:00 AM
Nice job. That repair will outlast the firearm. :)
March 10, 2012, 12:56 PM
I agree! :)
March 11, 2012, 12:44 PM
Well, I got tied up with a few things going on around here. But I was able to finish up last night.
Here are the pics I took last night after dressing up the repair and putting the barrel clamp back in place.
I haven't fixed the finish on the top of the handguard because, I'm not sure if you are going to clean up the stok and refinish it.
I can send it back as is or clean and refinish it.
I always say that there is more then one to skin a cat and even more ways to repair a stock.
Also, remember that cracks in the rear of the action area are most often caused by a problem at the front of the action.
March 11, 2012, 07:01 PM
Excellent work, Gunny! can't even see the cracks anymore which is perfect and it looks like the repair job will outlast the rifle for sure!
I currently have no plans on refinishing it; in the future I will but for now I will not be so if you would be so kind as to refinish it, I would be ever grateful!
March 13, 2012, 07:06 AM
What I can do is strip off the old dried cosmoline that is on the surface and apply an Oil Scrub Finish with BLO, if that is what you would like.
March 13, 2012, 07:38 AM
That would be great! Thanks! :)
March 13, 2012, 07:41 AM
Well actually on second thought, does the top look any different then when it came in? And will the coat of BLO make the top part of the hand guard look the same as it did?
March 13, 2012, 08:05 AM
I will take some pics when I get home.
refinished the color would be a little lighter.
March 13, 2012, 09:00 AM
Does the current color of the top part of the hand guard look the same as it did when it first arrived? If that's the case, you don't need to refinish it! :)
If it does look different than when it came in, go ahead and refinish! Thanks so much Gunny!
March 14, 2012, 06:54 PM
hexum, you're a lucky bastard.
March 15, 2012, 10:00 AM
That I am :)
He's a very nice guy!
March 15, 2012, 01:22 PM
Sorry I didn't have much time to talk on the phone the other day.
But I have almost finished blending the finish on the top of the handguard where the repair was made. It should be dry and ready to ship by Monday.
March 15, 2012, 02:56 PM
Hey no problem, Gunny! I appreciate the information you gave me, though!
Can't WAIT to get that hand guard back and see the repair first hand!
Another question for you that doesn't have to do with the repair; what, typically, did the military yugo stocks look like (color wise) before they were dipped into the cosmoline? Would they have been dipped into the cosmo if they weren't being stored but rather actually issued?
When I re-do my stock, I want it to have the same look/color that it would have had if it were issued to their military. Thanks!
March 15, 2012, 03:28 PM
The finish on an issued rifle would have been an Oil finish. BLO would be very close to what it should have.
Here is one of my Yugo 24/47's . It was soaked in cosmoline when I got it. I cleaned it up.
March 15, 2012, 04:03 PM
Oo that looks great! Was the hand guard not finished? That looks a bit darker.
Also, did they have any kind of glossy type finish like some of the Mosin-Nagants have?
Keep in mind I know nothing about military stock conditions when issued.
March 16, 2012, 01:27 AM
Most military stocks were finished with oil and would most often be topped off with a wax coat. This would give the stock a dull look but also make it almost water proof. .
The handguard on that 24/47 is just a darker cut of wood.
March 16, 2012, 12:08 PM
When I got home yesterday the area that I blended the finish was dry. I just got back from the post office and you should have the handguard back in hand by Monday.
I forgot to take some pics befor I shipped it so, you will just have to wait to see what it looks like.
March 16, 2012, 03:08 PM
Hey not a problem, gunny!
Thanks so much for your help! There would have been NO way I could have done this on my own and I am forever appreciative :)
I'll snap a few photos of it back on my gun and off my gun. Maybe you can use it for your records! (before and after shots of the repair)
March 16, 2012, 03:09 PM
So for dressing up the stock, hit it with BLO then a wax coat? Just trying to get it as close as it wuold look if it were to have been issued
March 16, 2012, 08:12 PM
Read these two stickies over. They will cover just about all your questions.