got a desert eagle for cheap


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Brockak47
February 26, 2012, 02:27 PM
So, I picked up a used Desert Eagle in .44 mag. It's one of the older ones.

The finish is a little worn looking. I started playing around with the dremel and now well I have a wacky idea.


Do you think it would be ok if I polished the WHOLE thing? to get the black off & expose the steel on it? couldn't hurt the value too much right lol.

Would taking fine sand paper to the outside to get the black off, then polishing it by hand and with dremel turn good? sounds like a fun project so I am wanting to do it

What do you think about that idea?


http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb198/kingkobra7/006.jpg

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Bush Pilot
February 26, 2012, 02:35 PM
Leave it alone IMO.

mljdeckard
February 26, 2012, 02:36 PM
I'm a guy who thinks that people attach a little too much sentiment to how things look. Some guys will rent their clothing if they think you have aesthetically damaged a gun in a way they think is inappropriate. I mostly say, it's your gun, do what you want with it. Pepto-pinki Duracoat? Enjoy.

Now, there may be a downside. I am not knowledgeable enough to say what kind of finish it has and how protective it is, but remember that this is the main reason for these kinds of finishes, they are protective. If you strip it off, you may leave the gun more vulnerable to damage than it was.

Lost Sheep
February 26, 2012, 02:37 PM
First of all, I don't think you can expose stainless steel if the gun is not made of stainless steel. If you take the bluing off of carbon steel, it is left "in the white" and LOOKS like stainless, but isn't. Most, if not all steel is pretty much colorless unless you stain it (with bluing) or coat it.

Using a Dremel tool is doable, but being a machine, it can remove more than you intend very easily and quicker than you can imagine. Many a home gunsmith trying to make their guns shine have wound up with a very shiny, randomly wavy surface that, once done, is nearly impossible to flatten out again.

Polishing by hand with Flitz, Mother's Mag or some such is MUCH more likely to produce a gun that is not ugly.

Go to auto shop, get trashed disk brake rotor and practice on that. They will give you one for free, as they are useless as a disk brake any more.

As I see it, your choices are to use a touch-up finish restorer to match the current worn spots to the rest of the gun or to polish it all down and re-blue the whole gun.

Do a Forum Search on "polishing" and you will find stories of others who have done what you are contemplating. Some have fine results. Others have cautionary tales.

Here's one:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=613939

Good luck.

Lost Sheep

Brockak47
February 26, 2012, 02:40 PM
Ya, I thought that too

found this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87QHRqaYnAA


Also this company did this:

http://www.stangsgonewild.com/forums/mirror-finish-polish/3076-desert-eagle-gun-after-custom-metal-polishing-services.html

hogrdr
February 26, 2012, 02:43 PM
i had one of the older guns in .44 blue. first i've ever heard of them being stainless. its possible but i'm really highly doubtful.

mljdeckard
February 26, 2012, 02:54 PM
That brake rotor idea is a good one. I am starting to doodle with Duracoat finishes, those would be good test and learning pieces.

Brockak47
February 26, 2012, 03:00 PM
How much does it cost for an old brake rotor & you just go to an auto garage? A side note, do you have to remove the original finish to use the duracoat or gunkote stuff?

56hawk
February 26, 2012, 03:11 PM
Don't know if your gun is stainless, but I know for a fact that my Mark XIX isn't. By the way you could always send it off to be hard chromed.

FIVETWOSEVEN
February 26, 2012, 04:33 PM
How much did you pay for it?

PO2Hammer
February 26, 2012, 04:51 PM
The Mark XIX DE's are not stainless, I don't imagine your Mark VII is either.

That's a darn good looking gun. It's not going to better looking with some cheap paint or a gaudy polish job.

wildehond
February 26, 2012, 05:02 PM
I prefer the worn, working gun, look.

Brockak47
February 26, 2012, 05:09 PM
I paid 825, I thought it was cheap. I might leave it the way it is since that seems to be the consensus i'm not sure yet, but now I do know one thing do it by hand not a power tool. Also it probably isn't stainless then, I had just read that it was somewhere ( forget where )

It's not a collectible gun is it?


As always thanks for the constructive help.

Liberty1776
February 26, 2012, 05:30 PM
It's your gun, you can screw it up as badly as you'd like. If it will make you happy, go for it. (IMHO, there's no way I'd do it...)

wally
February 26, 2012, 05:30 PM
Honest wear always looks better than a hack job refinish!

I'd suggest leaving it alone or having it professionally refinished. If you want to play around with refinishing starting with scrap metal is a much better way to learn!

mljdeckard
February 26, 2012, 05:42 PM
To do Duracoat you need to prepare the surface. You always need to completely degrease the surface. Some surfaces you will need to stipple with a sandblaster to prepare them.

An auto parts store probably has old brake rotors in their dumpster.

W.E.G.
February 26, 2012, 05:43 PM
I like the finish on that gun just as it is.

Please don't ruin it with some impulsive move with the Dremel.

If you are just dying to lay into a gun with the Dremel, find one that is truly old and rusty, and have at it.

That Desert Eagle deserves better.

Brockak47
February 26, 2012, 06:09 PM
dang, well I guess I won't do it myself even though I love tinkering with stuff. I wasn't really going to dremel since everyone said it's a bad idea i was just use a rag and some polish compound, but meh.


Thanks everyone!

Mot45acp
February 26, 2012, 09:05 PM
Aa magnet will tell you if its stainless.

ApacheCoTodd
February 26, 2012, 09:09 PM
I like the used yet cared for look - at least in the single photo you've posted.

As far as polishing with a dremel, I have a feeling you'll get into it farther than you will have hoped for before you realize it's not the right tool for the job and begin to wish that you hadn't started in the first place.

As far as magnets - that's an understandable yet in correct myth relative primarily to content of the "stainless". I can hang magnets all over my Delta Gold Cup, King Cobra, Sig 230 SL, AMT etc... All "stainless".

PO2Hammer
February 26, 2012, 09:49 PM
Aa magnet will tell you if its stainless.
Some stainless alloys respond to magnets, some do not.

Lost Sheep
February 27, 2012, 03:32 AM
How much does it cost for an old brake rotor & you just go to an auto garage?
Post #4. Appears you did not read the whole thing.
A side note, do you have to remove the original finish to use the duracoat or gunkote stuff?
Post #16

Any finish will look better the better prepped the underlying surface is. Colt's famous Royal Blue finish on the Diamondback and Python revolvers depended on the high polish under that bluing more than the bluing itself. Note: Painted or varnished wood, the same principle applies.

Dr.Rob
February 27, 2012, 03:57 AM
I'd leave it alone and make an action movie.

mgmorden
February 27, 2012, 07:05 AM
As always its your gun to do with as you wish, but taking a dremel to is is basically destroying whatever future value it may have. Nobody wants a gun in the white that someone did a kitchen-table polish job on with a dremel. Not to mention that being carbon steel and not stainless its going to start rusting and such very easily with the finish gone (bluing on firearms didn't start out as a decorative finish - it's for corrosion protection).

IMHO, if you really want the stainless look and want to do it right, send it off to be hard-chromed. Otherwise get it reblued and enjoy.

Brockak47
February 27, 2012, 11:03 AM
yep you guys were right, this is what magnum research said to me

"No it is made of 4140 Chromoly. There has never been a fully Stainless
Desert Eagle. Back in the 80's they did test three different metals.
Chromoly, stainless and aluminum alloy. However they were frame only
trials. The stainless and aluminum were indicated with -A and a -S.

I'm probably going to leave it the way it is or see how much it would cost to get it plated or re blued...not sure yet.

The only reason I had originally thought about polishing it was because I heard they were stainless so I figured it would be fine, but now I know better.

Thanks everyone for talking me out of a bad idea it seems & for all the useful info!

Winkman822
February 27, 2012, 11:32 AM
Nice gun, but PUT THE DREMEL DOWN. I say leave it black, or if you REALLY want a silver finish, send it out to be hard chromed or send it to Robar to be NP3 plated.

morcey2
February 27, 2012, 12:01 PM
Some guys will rent their clothing if they think you have aesthetically damaged a gun in a way they think is inappropriate.


I rented a tux for my wedding. Why would anyone do that for a finish-compromised gun? They would look even weirder with a really nice outfit, but a tacky gun. That just doesn't make sense to me. :neener: :D ( 'rend' is probably the right tense, but I'm not sure either )


Whatever you do, don't do it with a dremel. I love mine, but that's not what it was designed for. I agree with what Winkman822. If you want it shiny, send it out.

Matt

Brockak47
February 27, 2012, 04:42 PM
Ya, i got a quote to get it chrome or nickel plated for 100-150 & it would take 10 days sounds cheap to me. I am just debating if it would be harder to sell if I did something like that as opposed to keeping it how it is.

& lol morcey2 I didn't understand his post either

EDIT: holy crap, I looked up Robar & it would cost 400 bucks to get the internals & exterior NP3 coated as opposed to the 100-150 quote for hard chrome. Not sure if the gun is worth putting an extra 400 into it that would put me 1225 into it

Pietro Beretta
February 27, 2012, 04:43 PM
Look at that hand cannon, the things are HUGE & HEAVY!

If I ever, for some reason, purchased one of those... It would have to be in black & gold tiger stripe, LOL.

gunnutery
February 27, 2012, 05:06 PM
Personally, I like the worn look. I say leave it, but it's your choice.

Magnuumpwr
February 27, 2012, 11:49 PM
Brockak47, not anything to do with your question. But if you plan on shooting it much, keep and eye on your safety levers. After a little shooting they can work loose and will automatically render the gun useless till they are tightened back up. Learned this the hard way playing around trying to shoot an IDPA match with it. Might even look at putting some loktite on the screws prior to tightening.

ApacheCoTodd
February 28, 2012, 11:16 AM
Brockak47, not anything to do with your question. But if you plan on shooting it much, keep and eye on your safety levers. After a little shooting they can work loose and will automatically render the gun useless till they are tightened back up. Learned this the hard way playing around trying to shoot an IDPA match with it. Might even look at putting some loktite on the screws prior to tightening.
Comments like this are the frosting on the cake of checking this forum out. I had completely forgotten this aspect of our couple-a-three shooter DEs.
Thanks Mag for the memory nudge.

Panzercat
February 28, 2012, 01:03 PM
First of all, I don't think you can expose stainless steel if the gun is not made of stainless steel. If you take the bluing off of carbon steel, it is left "in the white" and LOOKS like stainless, but isn't. Most, if not all steel is pretty much colorless unless you stain it (with bluing) or coat it.

Using a Dremel tool is doable, but being a machine, it can remove more than you intend very easily and quicker than you can imagine. Many a home gunsmith trying to make their guns shine have wound up with a very shiny, randomly wavy surface that, once done, is nearly impossible to flatten out again.

Polishing by hand with Flitz, Mother's Mag or some such is MUCH more likely to produce a gun that is not ugly.

Go to auto shop, get trashed disk brake rotor and practice on that. They will give you one for free, as they are useless as a disk brake any more.

As I see it, your choices are to use a touch-up finish restorer to match the current worn spots to the rest of the gun or to polish it all down and re-blue the whole gun.

Do a Forum Search on "polishing" and you will find stories of others who have done what you are contemplating. Some have fine results. Others have cautionary tales.

Here's one:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=613939

Good luck.

Lost Sheep
Heed this advice. It was the ultimate fate of my polished up highpoint that I ended up repainting-- wavy dremel lines. But that's why I practiced on a Hi-point, not a deagle.

theQman23
February 28, 2012, 05:28 PM
A lot of people say that if you leave stell in the white, (meaning bare withou bluing or parkerizing it) that all of a sudden it'll rust immediately, it'll have crater sized scratches every time you touch it and you'll regret it. Welllllll........... I'm here to tell you that I have taken SEVERAL guns, and bead-blasted old plating, bad blueing, scratches etc and if you bead blast the coatings off of guns, and get the steel down to the white, you can then easily get a mild shine or polish with fine sandpaper and some elbow grease.
Here's how you do it. Completely dissassemble the WHOLE GUN because glass gets everywhere. Then, bead blast everything external, getting the parker, or blue, off.But don't ruin the letters and numbers. This leaves everything looking like it has a factory applied "matte" finish on it. Then, take the parts you want to polish, like the flats on the slide, or the receiver, etc and sand with 400,600,800 etc until you can see yourself in the metal. Finish with a buffer and some polish compound, and you'll be looking snazzy. You do need to oil the entire gun when your finished, and then wipe the excess off, and the reassemble putting grease where you want, etc. If you oil the parts and wipe them off with a towel, you won't see any rust forming on that gun for months, and months, as long as you store it correctly. If you carry it in all weather, and shoot it until it gets hot and then store it hot with rain water on it, yeah, you'll have problems sooner. But if you clean and oil your gun when done shooting, and store it inside at room temperature, you won't see rust anywhere on it for over a year or more probably.
I don't know about you, but I shoot every gun I own at least once every three or four months so the guns I've done this with never show any signs of a problem, but if you want a safe queen that you can oil up and store for years, without caring for it, then blueing and plating will be a requirement.

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