SP101 trigger


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76shuvlinoff
March 11, 2012, 06:14 AM
I picked up an SP101 yesterday, I'd post a pic but you folks know what they look like. The slightly smaller frame and grip fit my wife pretty well, we bought it for her house gun so we went with the 4". The .38s are fine but the 158 gr .357 can spank your hand with that small grip. Neither one of us have big hands but I think if it was going to see a full time diet of .357s I definitely would've chosen the GP100.

I have a beater Taurus 82 that I doctored the springs on and she loves it, so I ordered up a Wolf spring kit for the Ruger giving me various options. From what I have read here using the search function is the recommended trigger spring is the 8 lb but don't go below the 12 lb for the hammer.

I have some free time to wait on the mailman so I wanted to ask if anyone here has actually experienced light strikes by going less than 12 lbs for the hammer on their Ruger?

Thanks!
Mark

oh what the heck...
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr123/76shuvlinoff/photo2-1.jpg

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GP100man
March 11, 2012, 09:34 AM
I recommend the 12# as minimum for a HD/SD revolver, but have some fun guns with 10# hammer spring that I shimmed the hammer/trigger & the DA pick up dog & has been 100% reliable with wsp primers.

I have a lite load I use with CCI 400 SR primers if 100 of em go bang then after 500 with no misfire it gets put in line as a HD/SD gun.

jad0110
March 11, 2012, 09:39 AM
As you are probably well aware, be sure to test a couple of boxes of your preferred HD load after the spring swap for ignition reliability. Federal primers tend to be easier to ignite than others, so you might consider stoking your SP with a Federal load of some type, like the classic 158 grn LSWCHP +P.

More importantly than spring swapping, the issue I've noted with SPs isn't pull weight (which I'm fine with), but roughness and grittiness. I've handled more than one SP that had the springs swapped that still had a gritty trigger. Sorta like putting a newspaper over a pile of dog doo in the den: it might seem to help at first but, errr, no. Dry firing and cleaning up and relubing the internals works sometimes, but a friend's 2 1/4" bobbed hammer version is still nearly as rough as it was NIB after thousands of dry fires. They are supposedly fairly easy for anyone to clean up with a fine file or stone (no Dremel :eek:), but I wouldn't know personally. Something to look into maybe.

GP100man
March 11, 2012, 09:52 AM
When ya disassemble the trigger asm to replace the trigger spring take it completely apart & polish the well that the trigger spring & plungers (bevel the plungers slightly) work in that`s the main source of grittyness on Rugers DA revolver GP/SP series. This is also the only place I recommend a quality synthetic grease , sparingly .

Macchina
March 11, 2012, 10:51 AM
I just polished up all the internals and installed the 9lbs. on mine and ran a whole box of American Eagle magnums through it without a hitch.

I put the 10 lbs. on it for use and am in the process of running 200 CCI magnum primer reloads through it to make sure it's reliable.

After spending a few hours dehorning and polishing the guts and found that the majority of the grittiness was in the easiest to access part: the hammer strut. It's a stamped piece sheet metal and both the round on top and the lower inch of the shaft need to be smoothed and polished. This will make a world of difference in the smoothness of your trigger pull.

http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/large/765/765968.jpg

Old Fuff
March 11, 2012, 12:04 PM
The tension of the springs that Ruger uses are designed to insure beyond question that the revolver will work and fire with ANY factory ammunition, ANY primer, ANY environment, clean or dirty, and dry or lubricated. When you tweek the springs you to some degree reduce that reliability.

If you choose to polish this or that, and change the springs keep in mind that if you return the gun to the factory they may refuse to do any warrantee repairs, and if they do the altered parts and springs may be replaced with new ones, on your dime.

Why? Because they're lawyers say so.

I'm not saying that one shouldn't do what's been suggested in previous posts, only that before doing it each individual should be aware of the possible consequences.

skidder
March 11, 2012, 12:58 PM
The sp101 has one of the toughest triggers out of the box. Dry firing helps considerably, but a spring kit maybe necessary for some guns. Some adjustments cannot be undone, but some can. Keep your original parts just in case.

76shuvlinoff
March 11, 2012, 03:19 PM
Thanks folks,
I am pretty careful about not burning my bridges with heavy mods be it guns, Harleys or cages. If I go nuts on something I was probably about to throw it away anyhow... and my wife will attest that I never throw anything away.....

I decrudded, polished, and lubed the internals (including cutting the springs down) on an homeless Taurus 82 until the wife can run it like a clock. She's sorta spoiled by that but I wouldn't go quite that far on this one.

Thanks again.

Scott Free
March 11, 2012, 08:24 PM
Here is an excellent guide to doing a trigger job on your SP101. It is surprisingly easy and very effective at smoothing and reducing the trigger.

http://www.teslamap.com/public/sp101_trigger_job/index.html

Before doing the above trigger job to my own gun, I did 1000 dry firings. I did another 1000 afterward. I also shimmed the hammer and trigger (also quite easy.) See: http://michigancenteroutdoors.com/trigger_shims.html

I originally replaced the hammer spring (which is supposed to be 14 lb) with a Wolff 12 lb, but could feel no difference. So I tried the 10 lb. spring. I did not switch out the trigger return spring.) The 10 lb. spring made a world of difference. If you are going to switch out the springs, I recommend the trigger job and lots of dry firing first to reduce friction and the possibility of light primer strikes.

I'm still in the process of testing. I plan to load this gun with DPX. If I can ever find it, I might use Speer Gold Dot SB. Both loads use CCI primers which are reputed to be hard. With that in mind, today I shot 100 rounds of (CCI) Blazer with no FTFs. A few more days like today, and I'll trust it.

sidheshooter
March 12, 2012, 07:31 PM
Scott Free beat me to it. I used the directions on the teslamap site (along with a bit of pre-planning with iowegan's book of knowledge and some online video) and put in the 12lb main spring, leaving the trigger return spring alone.

The results were night and day from the stock trigger-at least the one I had. Definitely an improvement.

And if Ruger can't build a centerfire gun that is reliable with a 12 lb pull, then forget Ruger! The stock 14 is ludicrous; that's a trigger that only Brady or Bloomberg could love.

Mine has gone bang every time since I did my home fluff and buff; with everything from factory by remington, federal, and corbon to factory and home-brewed reloads.

I haven't tried the 10lb, and I probably won't. If I ever get bored, I might pop the 11lb in, just to see how it does with the same assortment of ammo.

76shuvlinoff
March 12, 2012, 09:46 PM
Scott Free,
Thank you very much. I bookmarked those pages, it looks pretty straight forward. My background is 30+years machine maintenance with several years of tool room supervision on the side. I have access to the materials. My concern is losing itty bitty parts.

sidheshooter,
thanks for the corroboration.

Old Fuff,
your statements are always welcome and duly noted.

It looks like I can expect a wait on the spring kit I ordered, I need to pick up some proper snap-caps and get to dry firing.

At the gun show where I bought the SP decent sized silhouette targets were $1 each. Seriously? Tonight I drew 25 for about a $1.00 total.

Girodin
March 12, 2012, 10:06 PM
I'll echo some of the other comments in suggesting that you accompany the spring change with smoothing the internals. One can polish and smooth them nicely with an Arkansas stone. It does take some time. However, the results are worth it. In addition it will give one a much better understanding of how his or her gun works. Polishing the internals will eliminate the grittiness and reduce friction, which will make light primer strikes with a lighter spring less likely.

Many people will make a per se statement that a lighter hammer spring should not be installed on a defensive gun. However, if it works then it works. I take the approach that one should test any new spring with the ammunition they intend to carry. If it reliably ignites it then there is no issue.

A polish of the internals and lighter springs makes a dramatic difference in the SP101 trigger in my experience. It still is not as good as the LCR. I really wish they would make an SP101 with an LCR trigger pull.

My concern is losing itty bitty parts.

Work in a clean, well lit area that is far from carpet. If you launch a spring into the great abyss and cannot find it (I admit I have done this with another gun, not the SP101) they are cheap to replace.

76shuvlinoff
March 27, 2012, 04:30 PM
I received the Wolff shooters kit last week. I finally got some time yesterday to go thru the light polishing and spring installation outlined above. I installed the 10 lb hammer spring and the 8 lb trigger reset spring. Wow what a difference, and I assume it will only get better with time. I ran 20 rds thru then ran out of time.

Thanks all for the help.

Mark
Edit to add:
with a Lyman gauge I started at 11.5 to 12 lb DA and around 5 SA.
Now we're at 9-9.4 DA. 3.5 SA.

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