Need advice for replacing 700 ejector


March 29, 2012, 11:46 PM
I need to replace an ejector on a 700 LA (7mm RM) SPS. I'm going to order the ejector from Midway, so no problem there. But since I've never had to replace one on any of my 700's before, I don't know if it is a job I can do, or if it require some smithing to fit it. I'm very good with doing most of my own gun repairs, as long as it doesn't require any machine work, or speciality firearm smithing tools I do well.

And if it is going to require a smith to install, does anyone know of a decent one in Tucson, Az.. I had one that was really good at 2nd Amendment Sports, but I've been told he retired. Bummer! I know of one other smith here, but that guy nearly destroyed one of my S&W's when he tried to install a simpel trigger spring.

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March 30, 2012, 01:26 AM
About the only problem I had while doing that was getting the roll pin out of mine but mine was slightly bent, which could have been the reason for its difficulty I did have 2 of punches snap before I got the job done but no scratches or marring/damage done to the bolt.

March 30, 2012, 04:17 AM
Did you have to do any grinding or lapping? I don't have the tools to grind, or lap in tight spots is why I'm asking. Well, within reason I should say. I'm actually kind of upset with Remington for ever having this problem in the first place. This 7 mag. came from the factory so tight that it wouldn't chamber factory ammunition, much less extract it after firing. This story goes back to the day my Son returned from Afghanistan and bought that SPS for hunting. We slapped a nice VX-III Leupold on it and bought 4 or 5 boxes of Win. and Rem. factory stuff just so he could shoot it right away, and collect brass at the same time. I did a detail cleaning job on it, mounted the glass, and then it wouldn't chamber but just a few of the factory rounds. The ones that did chamber were so tight, that I became concerned about galling the lugs, so we stopped trying to shoot them. But not only would they not chamber properly, they wouldn't extract, well at least not without having to use brute force on the bolt handle.

I've obviously done a very complete jon of cleaning it and inspecting it for build up, or machining debrie trapped under it.

The very first round fired is when the extractor was deffinitely damaged due to the amount of force it took to even raise the bolt. And then when we had to litterally pound the bolt open is when it probably sheared a portion of the extractor off. I realized we should have used a wooden dowel down the barrel to force the case out, but my Son was impatient and just wanted to shoot his new toy. So not having a cleaning rod with us, we were left with the only other option, beat it open with a towel wrapped around the handle to protect it from damage. It won't hold onto any case head with reliable grip. I've been coping with it by making sure I carefully form all of the brass for it, so there is very little resistence needed to extract them, and I still get cases that require a light tap from a rod, and I mean a very light tap too.

Regarding the tight head space, it's not a problem and actually contributes to longer brass life because I don't have to work the brass as much. When I need to use the FL die, all I have to do is adjust it for a full cam over contact with the shell holder, and head space is perfect. So it's deffinitely convenient in this respect. And it's also a tack driver, so no complaints there either. It has an unusually short throat too, so I never have problems reaching the lands and still maintaining good case depth with any bullet, even when loading the light 100 gr. varmit bullets.

Old Dog Man
April 2, 2012, 12:21 AM
One of my customers brought in a Rem. 7mag. that had a short freebore. He couldn't shoot 150gr. Rem. ammo in it, if he tried to remove the shell (not fired) the bullet stayed in the barrel stuck in the rifling, if you are trying to shoot 150's you may be having the same problem. I sent his back to Rem. and they said it passed inspection, but when it came back it had the same problem. He chose to shoot lighter bullets and it worked fine. Can't imagine what kind of pressure it would produce with bullet stuck in rifling, but would be unsafe in my opion. Al

April 2, 2012, 09:27 PM
No special tools required other than a dremel tool and I did polish the top of extractor so as it passes into the locked battery position you don't hear the click or snap as the bolt locks down.

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