Hand Primer Tool Marks Primers


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Parks2055
April 2, 2012, 08:46 PM
Hello Reloaders,
I picked up a Hornady Hand Priming Tool to have the option to prime before loading. I have read some people prefer the hand tool as they can feel the primer seat.
I primed a few cases and noticed that it leaves a circle impression on the primer. Is this normal? I do not get that when priming on the progressive.
Also, when I go to load on my Hornady progressive with the primed cases, do I just take the zip spindal out of the die or does it rely on the depriming rod to center the shell for sizing.
Thx,

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Blue68f100
April 2, 2012, 08:54 PM
Are you using the small size pin with a large Primer size?

BYJO4
April 2, 2012, 09:21 PM
Just remove the decapping pin from the sizing die. Better yet, prime your cases on your LNL AP press. Mine does an excellent job and speeds up the reloading process.

Parks2055
April 2, 2012, 09:25 PM
I am using the small primer pin to install small pistol primers.
So, it is unusual to get a circle mark on the primer?

cfullgraf
April 2, 2012, 09:42 PM
Hello Reloaders,
I picked up a Hornady Hand Priming Tool to have the option to prime before loading. I have read some people prefer the hand tool as they can feel the primer seat.
I primed a few cases and noticed that it leaves a circle impression on the primer. Is this normal? I do not get that when priming on the progressive.
Sometimes I will see a small indent around the edge of the primer. i don't worry about it. Maybe, don't squeeze so hard.

Also, when I go to load on my Hornady progressive with the primed cases, do I just take the zip spindal out of the die or does it rely on the depriming rod to center the shell for sizing.
Thx,

I prime off the press when loading on my Hornady and Dillon SDB progressives. The cases are already sized, the mouth expanded and the cases tumbled/polished.

I prime the cases before loading. I leave the sizing die and mouth expansion die off the press when loading cartridges.

I can prime 100 cases as fast as filling a primer tube. Since I prefer to decouple resizing from loading, there is no advantage to prime on the press.

I do not use the powder measure to expand the mouth of the case.

It is my preferred method and it makes me happy. But it is not by any means the only way.

bds
April 2, 2012, 09:57 PM
I primed a few cases and noticed that it leaves a circle impression on the primer. Is this normal? I do not get that when priming on the progressive.
Not normal. I hand and press prime and do not get any impression on the primer.

Top of your priming rod should be flat and shouldn't leave any impression on the primer cup. Can you verify that it is indeed flat?

Parks2055
April 2, 2012, 10:10 PM
Top of the priming rod is flat and is slightly smaller in diameter than the primer.
That smaller diameter is leaving a slight impression on the primer.
I should post a picture for a better visual. Will see if I can get it in a picture.

bds
April 2, 2012, 10:16 PM
The diameter of the rod should be the same size as the primer cup. Sounds like the smaller rod face is indenting the primer cup.

If you are indeed using small priming rod for small primers, I would contact the manufacturer/email some pictures along with the indented primer cups.

Yes, pictures would help.

JLDickmon
April 2, 2012, 10:30 PM
my Lyman primer punches used to do that.. I got another set and no more problem..

PigButtons
April 3, 2012, 01:04 AM
You don't specify which brand of primers. Some are softer than others and require a more delicate hand to prevent this mark from showing up. I sometimes have this problem with Federal primers but never on CCI. Others may have more experience and can give more extensive feedback.

I have found that if your primer pockets are clean it is easier to 'feel' when the primer bottoms out in the pocket.

Arkansas Paul
April 3, 2012, 02:38 AM
I have a Hornady priming tool that does the same exact thing. Run the priming arm up and look closely at it. Mine has a slight burr where it wasn't machined quiet enough that sticks up and causes the primers to mark. Mine is the large primer pin. I'm thinking I'll just file it down.

Certaindeaf
April 3, 2012, 03:12 AM
If it's a crescent moon shape that approximates the radius of the seating stud, that's not good. Something might be cocked and or the shell holder is wonky.

Parks2055
April 3, 2012, 08:27 AM
I am using WSP primers.
I think I am just applying too much pressure. I use a fair bit of force to seat on the progressive, but I guess thay does not translate well to a hand primer.
I took a picture - how do I attach it? I only see a button to make a link to an image.

Parks2055
April 3, 2012, 08:39 AM
Got it - Here is the picture.

bds
April 3, 2012, 08:50 AM
Based on your picture, your seating rod face looks to be undersized.

Seating a primer deeper should result in more flattened primer cup. When hand priming, I normally seat my primers to .004" below flush and the following primers were seated to .004"/.008" below flush for another thread. As you can see, seating the primers deeper resulted in flatter primer cup without any indentation. I would give Hornady a call with a reference to this thread.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=155085&stc=1&d=1324390089

cfullgraf
April 3, 2012, 09:03 AM
Looks like the shell holder is a bit loose and not centering the case in the priming tool.

Some shell holders designed for 40 S&W are a bit too "universal" for use with other similar cartridges.

Just in case there is a sharp edge on your seating stem, stone the edge of the seating surface of your seating stem. Just enough to take off any sharp edge but not enough to really see that you have done anything.

Like I said before, I see those marks on occasions although not quite as deep. I have never had an issue with them. They all go bang as designed.

Blue68f100
April 3, 2012, 10:41 AM
Looks like the seating plug is too small. It should be close to the same dia as the primer, a min should cover the flat face.

Does the primer punch fits the hole through the holder closely? Is the primer pin installed upside down by chance?

I only use the primer seater on my LNL-AP. I bought it for speed so why hand seat.

jim243
April 3, 2012, 12:27 PM
Where in the world did that "E" come from???

Jim

Certaindeaf
April 3, 2012, 01:36 PM
^
You can get monogrammed seating punches that do that.





































Not really. That's from the factory.

Parks2055
April 3, 2012, 02:51 PM
I guess I will call Hornady to inquire. It is not upside down, would not reach installed reverse. It's the small primer stem with WSP primers and is actually quite snug in the plastic housing. Weird.

Side note:
I was wondering the same thing with the E stamped on the primer head. From the factory that way? Strange.

Walkalong
April 3, 2012, 09:30 PM
It looks as if the seater stem is canted. Either the face is not square, or it is undersized for the channel it runs in. Looks small as well. What diameter is the seater stem? Mine is a hair over .202. (Not a Hornady)

nevadabob
April 3, 2012, 09:53 PM
I use the Hornady Handheld Primer and my small primer rod is 0.186 in. in diameter. My rod was quite snug when I first started loading 9's. I was using a Lee shell holder and that was causing the problem. The opening in the shellholder was a tad small. I switched to a Hornady shellholder which allowed everything to move freely.

Waywatcher
April 3, 2012, 10:04 PM
I dealt with these exact same little problems with hand primers when I started. I tried a few different types of hand primers and was never satisfied. The loads still all went bang, but when I am making something, I demand better. A tool that accomplishes this task shouldn't leave marks like that.

I now use an RCBS Bench Prime, and I recently (carfeully!) stoned and polished the face of the seater stem and it gives picture perfect results. There is a nice spring loaded cup that holds the primer centered on the rod (which is pushing on the primer.)

It is also way more ergonomic, when priming larger quantities of brass. I wouldn't prime any other way now. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool

bds
April 3, 2012, 10:25 PM
Where in the world did that "E" come from???
You can get monogrammed seating punches that do that.

Not really. That's from the factory.
I was wondering the same thing with the E stamped on the primer head. From the factory that way? Strange.
They are PMC Non-Toxic SP primers. I guess "E" stands for environmental?

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=162137&stc=1&d=1333502803

Walkalong
April 4, 2012, 08:27 AM
Sorry, small primers, arghh. My seater stem for small primers is .165.

Offfhand
April 4, 2012, 02:43 PM
The primer post is obviously off center. Do you have the plastic alignment bushings that came with the tool? Their purpose is to center the post in various makes of shell holders. Use the right bushing and it's an easy fix.

moxie
April 4, 2012, 05:36 PM
I'm not a big fan of a lot of Lee products, especially the FCD, but I will always plug their Autoprime. They got that one just right. It works. No bushings, adjustments, etc. It just works. Cheap too. The pot metal parts used to break a lot but they've long since fixed that. Now it just works.

Elkins45
April 4, 2012, 07:40 PM
You definitely have some sort of centering issue, or you have an undersized seating stem. Can you wobble the cases around in the shell holder and make the marks stop happening? That might be a way to tell if the problem is with centering or with the stem.

You may also be pressing harder than you need to, but that's a separate thing.

Parks2055
April 4, 2012, 11:01 PM
The stem is fairly tight in the plastic guide. Seems that the stem is undersized. As gently as I press the handle it still makes the mark.
I am going to return this unit and try another. Maybe same brand or maybe try a Lee or RCBS unit.

moxie
April 4, 2012, 11:19 PM
FWIW, as I said earlier, I love the Lee. I have the RCBS primer tool also, but have never had much luck with it.

nevadabob
April 6, 2012, 12:42 AM
Parks....I'm not sure if this is the real cause of your primer problem but go over to www.glocktalk.com and scroll down to their reload section. There's a fairly fresh post titled "40 S&W crimped is out there". If you're trying to force your primers into the crimped style receiver then you're going to indent the primer. I'm no expert, just my 2 cents.

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