HI Power pull redution


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csa77
April 3, 2012, 05:09 PM
I have an MKIII that I love maybe even more then my 1911 but realy want the trigger pull reduced as much as possible.

on some forums Iv read people have changed the hammer springs down to a 26# or lower and claimed it made almost no difference in the pull weight. I keep hearing the sear is the key.

I know C&S offers sears but will the sear need to be cut to offer any actual improvement? Id like to not have to send my gun out to a smith if I dont have too. if it needs to have the sear angle changed/relief cut does anyone know if someone sells them pre-cut?


also has anyone had any experience with the C&S light trigger pull sear lever they sell? iv read they it can also reduce pull weight by as much as 2#

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mongo4567
April 3, 2012, 05:21 PM
Using a lower strength hammer spring and removing the magazine safety made the trigger on mine great. I went too light on the hammer spring the first time and had intermittent failure to fires.

Certaindeaf
April 3, 2012, 05:34 PM
Leave the springs alone and remove the magazine safety.

rellascout
April 3, 2012, 07:13 PM
There are 3 steps to lower the trigger pull weight of a BHP.

#1 Take the Mag disconnect out. Often this smooths it out but does not drop it more than a 1lb.

#2 Replace the main spring with a Wolf hammer spring you can go down as low as 22 lbs. I would pick up one of the multi kits and go as low as you can without getting light strikes. IIRC they come with a lighter firing pin spring in the kit. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/637100/wolff-hammer-spring-pack-browning-hi-power-reduced-power

#3 Sear and hammer replacement with a pre-prepped C&S hammer and sear kits. http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=CS0284 or http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=CS0283HC

These can get a BHP trigger down to the 5.5 LB range.

Drail
April 3, 2012, 08:11 PM
The correct way to reduce the pull on a High Power is by stoning the hammer and sear so that they mate perfectly. You need the correct jig to do this. Reducing the mainspring doesn't actually lower the pull very much but does increase the slide's velocity and can cause the muzzle climb to increase. The reason that mainspring is so heavy is to control the slide's speed in recoil. The drop in hammer/sear kits work fairly well in "most guns" but cannot compensate for variations in manufacturing tolerances. But you might get lucky. Your thumb safety may or may not be 100% functional if the hammer/sear are changed. The magazine safety is a definite candidate for removal.

10X
April 4, 2012, 11:22 AM
The above advice is correct. I have taken BHP from 12 lbs to 5 lbs by doing the following.
The only expense in doing this is a $3 spring from Wolff. Other actions require small files and sand paper.

*Change the main/hammer spring from the current 32 lb to 26 lb or 24 lb
26 lb was the weight pre 1977 or so. Wolff Gunsprngs.

*undercut the sear where it engages the hammer. Look up the Browning Field Service manual on the net. Browning says that will reduce the pull by as much as 1 1/2 lbs. That is true per my experience.
You have to carefully study what the manual says and do a little less rather than a little more or you will ruin the sear.

* Take some tension out of the sear spring by SLIGHTLY bending it from its factory profile so it puts a little less pressure on the sear. You will need to test the gun to assure that you don't have hammer follow.

* You can VERY lightly polish the sear tip with 1500 grit sand paper, but be very careful not to change the squareness of the sear or you will have to get special jigs to fix it.

*Remove the mag disconnect. In some guns the pin through the trigger is very difficult to punch out. There are a number of pictures on the net to show how to disassemble the gun and do this.

Drail
April 4, 2012, 01:59 PM
"In some guns the pin through the trigger is very difficult to punch out". Now here is a guy who knows High Powers. Sometimes you begin to believe that pin is never going to come out.

Certaindeaf
April 4, 2012, 02:09 PM
"In some guns the pin through the trigger is very difficult to punch out". Now here is a guy who knows High Powers. Sometimes you begin to believe that pin is never going to come out.
Sometimes you can hardly even see it/them.. aim thrice, strike once and true! lol

And have good tools.

Silent Bob
April 4, 2012, 02:12 PM
My Hi-Power's trigger smoothed out noticeably through the first 2,000 rounds.

Certaindeaf
April 4, 2012, 02:18 PM
^
Did you use steroids or do it the old fashioned way? lol

csa77
April 5, 2012, 06:42 AM
does anyone know the difference between the type 2 and standard hammers on the C&S website? I read some were that the type II increases the lock time?
is there a reason you would want the lock time increased for a hi power?

csa77
April 5, 2012, 01:31 PM
well that info was from the Brownells web page for the trigger and sear sets, on another Brownelles page where they offer just the hammer they say the type II reduces lock time.
im assuming its a mistake on the hammer and sear combo page, they meant to say decreases not increases



I also last night did remove the mag safety, pain in the butt but got it done cleanly. certainly made a difference. tho i need more, so i am going to order the type II skeletonized hammer and sear combo and 2 hammer springs 24# and 26# (i already run the recoil buffer and 18.5# recoil spring)

Trebor
April 6, 2012, 01:59 PM
I replaced the 32 mainspring with a Wolf 26 pound spring. The biggest improvement was that it made it easier to rack the slide with the hammer down. I did notice a slight improvement in the trigger pull, but that was a secondary concern.

I've had no reliability issues with the gun since swapping out the mainspring.

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