Sparrow after first 1000 rounds


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wally
April 27, 2012, 04:28 PM
Here is my disassembled Sparrow after its first 1000 rounds, the recommended cleaning interval:
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=163530&stc=1&d=1335558241

I'll probably be taking it apart for cleaning after every other outing, about 800 rounds.

Ammo was Federal Bulk pack from Walmart.

I think it would have been really difficult to pull the core from a one-piece tube, so I suspect that simpler design would need much more frequent cleaning and/or using cleaner (more expensive) ammo.

Should be obvious why your really don't want to shoot .22lr through a 5.56 suppressor that can't be disassembled for cleaning.

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TurtlePhish
April 27, 2012, 04:38 PM
That is a LOT of lead and powder buildup on the blast baffle and tube parts.

How's the sound reduction?

wally
April 27, 2012, 04:45 PM
How's the sound reduction?

Great, I was shooting steel plates without hearing protection, until someone started shooting .45ACP in the bay next to me -- was too loud so I had to put my ears back on.

The bullets hitting the plates is way louder than the gun's report.

This is my first experience with a .22 suppressor, so I can't say if its a lot of fouling or not, but I thought I'd show what it is.

TurtlePhish
April 28, 2012, 11:31 AM
This is my first experience with a .22 suppressor, so I can't say if its a lot of fouling or not, but I thought I'd show what it is.


Guess it goes to show you how dirty .22lr really is.

bobwhip66
May 6, 2012, 01:02 AM
Is their any change in point of impact with the Sparrow? Mine shoots two inches left at seven yards.
Bob

wally
May 6, 2012, 10:47 AM
Is their any change in point of impact with the Sparrow?

I've used it on our Walther P22 and Ruger 22/45 (the "new" model with threaded bull barrel. Shooting steel plates at 10 yards the sights on the P22 seemed the same as without the suppressor. The 22/45 has a red dot that I'd adjusted prior to getting the Sparrow and it needed no adjustments using the suppressor.

Our plates are set up so you need to hit the top third or they won't generally fall so I'd have easily noticed any significant change in POA/POI.

My Gemtech HVT-QD had so much POA/POI change on my Draco SBR that its not really usable for me, whereas the shift on my RRA and DPMS rifles was about 2 moa, up on one, down and right for the other.

bobwhip66
May 22, 2012, 01:28 PM
What are you using to get the lead off the suppressor? I was thinking of putting my Sparrow in walnut viberator and let run over night.

rjrivero
May 22, 2012, 01:32 PM
Is their any change in point of impact with the Sparrow? Mine shoots two inches left at seven yards.
Bob

Make sure your threads are concentric to the bore. Put the suppressor on, and look down from the chamber to the muzzle and see that there are no "shadows." Everything should be strait and centered.

Sounds like it's possibly a little off center causing baffle strikes/deflection.

TurtlePhish
May 22, 2012, 03:03 PM
Sounds like it's possibly a little off center causing baffle strikes/deflection.


If that was the case, I doubt the can would last long enough for the change to be repeatable...

rjrivero
May 22, 2012, 04:10 PM
Not entirely true. If it's just a little off center, the bullet could be just grazing the baffle. It'll introduce yaw and the bullet path can be off pretty consistently.

Saakee
May 22, 2012, 05:06 PM
Nice pic. At first I thought you had cut it in half and I was shocked until i finished cycling down.

bamawrx
May 23, 2012, 02:06 PM
If the threads are off the bullet can "follow" the baffles. There have been some dramatic examples of this documented. Its a little hard to believe but it does happen, and so it could produce results like this. Best test would be to put the can on another host weapon and see if it causes the shots to go off. The point is that you don't have to get baffle strikes to move the POI.

I have one of these and it works perfectly across three hosts. Mine doesn't get as dirty as the original post, but I shoot mostly Winchester subsonic's. Wicked quiet with this ammo, and if you add a little water you get Hollywood quiet results.

wally
May 23, 2012, 03:57 PM
What are you using to get the lead off the suppressor?

I just let it soak for a while in penetrating oil and then scrape it off.

PBR Streetgang
May 23, 2012, 05:38 PM
I read on another forum that the owner had his baffles anodized and it made it easier to keep clean. I'll look to see if I can find the post again and give you a bit more info.

wally
May 23, 2012, 09:10 PM
I read on another forum that the owner had his baffles anodized and it made it easier to keep clean

Is not that big a deal after a little soaking in the penetrating oil. It just pops off in big chunks.

bamawrx
May 24, 2012, 10:51 AM
Anyone toss the sparrow internals into a sonic cleaner? I have one and it cleans the heck out of whatever you toss in, but you can get some finish damage to some items. My concern is the end cap that is aluminum.

Saakee
May 24, 2012, 10:57 AM
Use plastic coated wire so it's submerged but not resting on the bottom so it won't be smacked around?

CZguy
May 24, 2012, 11:46 PM
Anyone toss the sparrow internals into a sonic cleaner? I have one and it cleans the heck out of whatever you toss in, but you can get some finish damage to some items. My concern is the end cap that is aluminum.

Based on experience I no longer clean aluminum in a ultra sonic cleaner. :o

Live and learn.

plunge
May 26, 2012, 12:51 PM
The new sparrows are all stainles steel.

DPris
May 26, 2012, 01:07 PM
I've had no shift in impact with the Sparrow on a Ruger 22/45.
Denis

CZguy
May 26, 2012, 11:47 PM
The new sparrows are all stainles steel.

It was my understanding that the baffles are stainless steel, but the rest of it is made from aluminum.

plunge
May 27, 2012, 12:20 AM
According to silencerco and all the reviews I have read it is all stainless steel besides the 2 rubber o-rings and is dip safe.

Gato Montés
May 27, 2012, 12:32 AM
The monocore, clam shells and I believe the endcap are all stainless. The outer tube is just regular old steel with a park finish. I don't know how well regular steel will hold to an ultrasonic or the dip, but given the design you shouldn't have have to do any cleaning on that part at all less a couple wipes with a rag.

plunge
May 27, 2012, 12:38 AM
I just searched again and all parts besides the outer tube and o-rings are stainless and dip safe. The outer tube is plain carbon steel and should not be dipped, but it really shouldn't need it because of the design. That was posted by Gary Hughes the national sales rep for silencerco. I haven't dipped my sparrow and don't really plan on it but you can. I just soak mine with cleaning oil and scrub it with a brass or nylon brush and all the carbon comes right off.

Gato Montés
May 27, 2012, 12:47 AM
^^^Echo???:D

I haven't received my Sparrow yet, but I looked into the many different ways of cleaning and while efficient, the dip kinda scares me.

Skin permeable lead as a byproduct? Eh, I think I'll go with the ultrasonic.

CZguy
May 27, 2012, 02:10 AM
What is this dip method that you guys are referring to?

Gato Montés
May 27, 2012, 05:19 AM
The dip is a 50/50 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and distilled vinegar. This solution will dissolve lead off of stainless steel components, just leave the parts soak over night. The good news is it's extremely efficient, able to practically dissolve away lead in nooks or crannys where it's hard to reach. The bad news is you create lead acetate as a byproduct, which is extremely toxic and must be disposed of properly. It will also eat away at some materials, such as aluminum.

wally
May 27, 2012, 09:54 AM
The bad news is you create lead acetate as a byproduct, which is extremely toxic and must be disposed of properly.

How exactly do you properly dispose of this highly toxic mess?

I'd not go anywhere near "the dip" without a very clear answer.

Frankly, in 30+ years of shooting I've never seen the need for such a thing, even after Remington Thunderbolt leaded up my MK II so bad it couldn't hit a 10" plate at 10 yards. I just let some Kroil (penetrating oil) soak in the barrel and then lead ribbons came out with a brass cleaning brush. Never needed to repeat the process after I got rid of the Thunderbolt ammo.

Gato Montés
May 27, 2012, 11:52 PM
You would have to take the leftovers to a disposal center which deals with hazardous waste. Check with your county to see where the closest one is, otherwise there are usually mobile sites offered on select dates that move around if the static sites are too far away. Too much of a pain if you ask me.

I take it you're using Kroil on the Sparrow as well? You should post some pictures after you get her cleaned up. I'm looking for a cheap and easy cleaning method for when I get mine, I'd surely appreciate a follow up.

CZguy
May 28, 2012, 12:16 AM
I take it you're using Kroil on the Sparrow as well? You should post some pictures after you get her cleaned up. I'm looking for a cheap and easy cleaning method for when I get mine, I'd surely appreciate a follow up.

I would too. :)

wally
May 28, 2012, 11:27 AM
You would have to take the leftovers to a disposal center which deals with hazardous waste. Check with your county to see where the closest one is, otherwise there are usually mobile sites offered on select dates that move around if the static sites are too far away. Too much of a pain if you ask me.

My point exactly, and they may still not want to take a lead acetate solution, usually these collections are geared up for paints, pesticides, residential chemicals, etc. things that can be disposed of in an approved incinerator.

I take it you're using Kroil on the Sparrow as well? You should post some pictures after you get her cleaned up. I'm looking for a cheap and easy cleaning method for when I get mine, I'd surely appreciate a follow up. OK next time I'll take before and after cleaning photos, but it'll never look close to like new because the heat and the carbon make it ultimately end up like the inside of a tail pipe :) Although the outside still looks good.

Gato Montés
May 28, 2012, 05:30 PM
Much appreciated sir! How long do you soak before scrubbing? Do you fully submerge or do you just wet it heavily and let sit?

Oh and BTW, here is an outer Sparrow tube after experiencing the dip...

http://www.silencerco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/bad_tube.jpg

:eek::eek::eek:

wally
May 28, 2012, 08:49 PM
How long do you soak before scrubbing? Do you fully submerge or do you just wet it heavily and let sit?

So far, wetting it heavily and letting it sit has been fine. I'm thinking of rigging some PVC pipe to let it soak after I made a mess bumping one of the half tubes while it was sitting.

Why would the outer tube need "the dip" or much of any cleaning, with the Sparrow design the lead and fouling is trapped by the baffles and inner tube halves.


Here is a photo after cleaning, just before reassembly. Its the fourth time I've cleaned it, so a bit under 4000 rounds through it. Probably need to replace the O-rings next time, they seem a little swollen.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=165309&stc=1&d=1338330912

wally
May 29, 2012, 06:55 PM
Bump, I posted the photo as an edit since it seemed more appropriate, but then I realized nobody would know a new post had been made.

I let the Kroil soak while I was cleaning the six guns we shot today, was a couple of hours. Scraped off the big chunks, then a bit more Kroil and some wire brushing, flush with brake parts cleaner and reassemble.

bobwhip66
May 29, 2012, 09:15 PM
That looks good. The first time I cleaned my Sparrow I had to drive it out of the shell with a wooden dowel. Around a 1000 rounds through it. The carbon was not that bad to clean but had a lot of lead in it. Ended up soaking it in the chemical to get the lead out. When I put it back together I used some spray mold release from my bullet casting. I also put a light coating of never seize on the outside of the clam shells. I'll leave it for another 1000 rds and see what it looks like. The next time I will let it set in kroil oil over night and see how that compares.

Gato Montés
May 30, 2012, 04:59 AM
Hell, that looks REAL good! Good idea with the pvc pipe.

I've heard enough about Kroil but never had any first hand experience, that stuff seems to do the trick real well. Looks like I'll be picking some up right quick. Thanks again wally.:)

ZombieHorde
May 31, 2012, 08:48 PM
Man, I'm going to have to go clean my Alpine.

rjrivero
June 1, 2012, 10:33 AM
Man, I'm going to have to go clean my Alpine.

How many rounds do you have through it? It's not so easy to clean when the round count goes up. I clean my alpine every 300-500 rounds. Even then it's kind of difficult to push out the baffle stacks.

wally
June 1, 2012, 10:33 PM
This is exactly why I went with the Sparrow. I clean it every 800-1000 rounds which is typically two outings.

ScottyPotty
June 7, 2012, 09:37 PM
good info. Ive been waiting on sparrow SS since early February.

CZguy
June 7, 2012, 10:55 PM
good info. Ive been waiting on sparrow SS since early February.

Yep me too, but my BATF check cleared the end of April. I'm trying to learn all that I can before I pick it up.

wally
September 10, 2012, 08:31 PM
When I put it back together I used some spray mold release from my bullet casting.

This sounded like a good idea so I got some Lyman moly mold release spray from Midway. Unfortunately the net result was poor. Can ends up shooting like a leaded bore -- horribly inaccurate and inconsistent -- because all the lead bits that don't stick and instead bounce around inside affecting the bullet. Even had some pieces blow back into the trigger of my 22/45 preventing it from resetting until I disassembled it to remove the blockage :(

Took me a while to figure things out since I was setting up a new red dot which confounded the issue. To get reasonable accuracy I had to shake out the bits after every magazine, and it wasn't all that much easier to clean afterwards. Won't use this stuff again :(

Shooting steel plates with cheap ammo, I may run my can harder than most, but its held up well and is a lot of fun! Like it so much I've ordered one for the wife (nice feature of using a Trust).

FIVETWOSEVEN
September 10, 2012, 11:32 PM
Off topic but why are most if not all centerfire silencers unable to be taken apart for cleaning? Why are they made like that?

TurtlePhish
September 11, 2012, 02:33 PM
They don't really need cleaning. Powder burns completely and jacketed bullets don't deposit lead inside the can.

Rimfires leave a lot of lead residue all over the place.

FIVETWOSEVEN
September 12, 2012, 03:44 PM
I would still want one that could be broken down I guess. Knowing that it's dirty in there would get to me I guess.

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