Weird blemishes on my SS wheel gun.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/LSntegra/93bd9c68.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/LSntegra/820d0b53.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/LSntegra/1be3e90b.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/LSntegra/8c377019.jpg

Received this wheel gun in a trade. Saw a few blemishes and figured it was something that could be scrubbed off. Well it's not that easy and when I tried using a soft plastic cleaning rod I noticed the clear finish was also rubbing off on the back of the gun near the grips.

The good news is that the grips cover up most of the marks. Any suggestions on how to remove this stuff? I've used Hoppes but to no avail. I assume I'll have to get the frame refinished. :(

Thanks all.


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Why remove it? It is a ccw gun and with ccw it should not be seen. Oh and it is not a BBQ gun either. If it does not effect the safety of the gun i.e. frame rot, leave it alone.
Just my two cents.

I already have a CCW (PM9) and a backup (442) but I guess I can use this is a truck gun, but for a car.


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You sure that's 'stainless', and not coated aluminum?

That looks like a 642. If so, thats an aluminum frame. Its a later version with the clear coat finish. The clear coat is crazing and bubbling allowing moisture to get under it. The aluminum is corroding. (aluminums version of rust)

Three choices, get the clear coat off, either mechanically with a brush or with a solvent, clean the aluminum underneath and then keep oil on it. Option two, forget about it. By the time the grips frame corrodes through, we'll likely all be dead. Option three, send it back to Smith or a refinisher for a new coat of something.

Smith used to clear anodize the frames on the 642. It was tough and a good finish. They decided they didn't think the color match was right for the stainless, so, they painted them. The paint is not a very durable finish.

I would bet money that is not stainless but an aluminum frame.

The tells are the chip in the paint just above the grip pin, the logo is neither stamped or laser etched.

Yep you guys are right, it is a 642 with aluminum frame and the finish appears to be wearing away.


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Could it be the finish has reacted with something that has caused it to break down, such as salts and oils in human skin? If so, there's not much you can do about, but I would imagine it will be a very long time before it has any detrimental effect on function.

had one that did the same thing, sent it back to factory and the re finished it free of charge sold it and got a 642 stainless

Thanks guys, a lot of people have been saying that it is from sweat. Maybe I will call S&W and see what they say.


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That's aluminum, I would have it bead blasted away. It'll be fine.

Thanks guys, a lot of people have been saying that it is from sweat.

It probably is from sweat. Particularly on the backstrap. Sweat from your hand contains salt. Once the finish has been degraded the salt is free to corrode the aluminum.

I once had a Cimarron revolver with their beautiful old fashioned 'charcoal blue' finish. Beautiful to behold, but just like most 19th Century blues, not vey robust. In less than a year the blue on the backstrap was completely gone, the underlying steel aged to a battleship gray color. All from the sweat of my hand.

Thanks for everyone's input. I'm going to contact Smith & Wesson on Monday and see if I can send it in to get a refinished.


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Uberti's "charcoal blue" isn't really charcoal blue. It's peacock nitre blue and notoriously fragile. Real charcoal blue, like Turnbull's carbona is much less "blue" and much more robust.

Our Shop sent a couple 642s back for that problem. They replaced them with new guns.

Our Shop sent a couple 642s back for that problem. They replaced them with new guns.

I can only hope for this outcome! Thanks.


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You might try a little lighter fluid and see if that removes the blemish. If not, send it back to S&W and they'll most likely refinish it. Aluminum is not a bad material for a gun frame, but the oils in some peoples' hands can do horrible things to guns. I had a friend who couldn't own blued guns because the oils in his hands just took the bluing off if he didn't clean them immediately. BreakFree CLP helped, but it was just a matter of killer chemistry. Even his stainless guns needed BreakFree on them to protect them. Me, I can handle blued guns and nothing happens. I clean them as a matter of course, but the oils in my hands aren't destructive.

If you get a new finish, don't feel you have to get rid of the gun. Chances are your personal chemistry isn't as destructive as the previous owner.

Could also be that the prior owner cleaned with something a little too abrasive. When I bought my 642, I was told by the dealer and their resident gunsmith not to use foaming bore cleaners on x42s with their painted aluminum frames as it would eventually cause the paint to crack and flake.

weight the revolver. Aluminum frame it will weight around 17oz maybe 16. SS it will be closer to 21oz.

I have seen salt water do that to the coated aluminum.

Is it a newer or older model 642? Judging by the lack of a lock I'm assuming it's an older model (although they are new making no lock models again). The older models were more prone to finish problems but I think it's since been corrected. Send it back and S&W should take care of it.

One of the reasons I've been switching to stainless steel only. As time marches on you will begin to see the effects of this new potmetal/poly craze. They are fine for the night stand and occasional use, but heavy use and the elements will reveal what they are made of.

One of the reasons I've been switching to stainless steel only. As time marches on you will begin to see the effects of this new potmetal/poly craze. They are fine for the night stand and occasional use, but heavy use and the elements will reveal what they are made of.

There's nothing new about polymer being used in handguns. There also isn't a trace of pot metal in any Airweight S&W, it's made out of aluminum. There is also nothing new about aluminum being used in handguns either. It's been used on everything, from Colt 1911 to P-series Sigs.

The only time I'm not carrying my 637-3 is when I'm asleep or in the shower. Lately it's been seeing between between 2-300 rounds a month and goes through at least a 1/2 hour of presentation drills a day. The finish shows no sign of wear expect a slight shine on the normal spots. As I said before, some of the earlier models experienced finish issues but that seems to have been corrected. As I also said, people that do experience finish problems can usually have it refinished by S&W free of charge.

Edit to add : I use Hoopes #9 ( spray or jar) for cleaning and then oil lightly with Mil-Tec. That combo has never given me any issues.

Moisture and rubber grips. That is corrosion and common with aluminum and moisture.

There's nothing new about polymer being used in handguns. There also isn't a trace of pot metal in any Airweight S&W, it's made out of aluminum. There is also nothing new about aluminum being used in handguns either. It's been used on everything, from Colt 1911 to P-series Sigs.

The only time I'm not carrying my 637-3 is when I'm asleep or in the shower. Lately it's been seeing between between 2-300 rounds a month and goes through at least a 1/2 hour of presentation drills a day. The finish shows no sign of wear expect a slight shine on the normal spots. As I said before, some of the earlier models experienced finish issues but that seems to have been corrected. As I also said, people that do experience finish problems can usually have it refinished by S&W free of charge.

Edit to add : I use Hoopes #9 ( spray or jar) for cleaning and then oil lightly with Mil-Tec. That combo has never given me any issues.

Well let me add aluminum to my potmetal/poly not to buy list. And.... I'm referring to revolvers not autos.
You can continue to buy aluminum/potmetal/poly revolvers, and you can continue to have these kinds of problems. I'll stick with my stainless steel. ;)

Aluminum is not pot metal and holds up quite nicely on a 50yr old Ruger. :rolleyes:

http://photos.imageevent.com/newfrontier45/sixgunsiii/large/IMG_7120e.jpg

Aluminum is not pot metal and holds up quite nicely on a 50yr old Ruger. :rolleyes:

http://photos.imageevent.com/newfrontier45/sixgunsiii/large/IMG_7120e.jpg
Sweet gun:rolleyes:

CraigC-- I'm a stainless steel purist, but I do own 4 blued revolvers (grandfathered in). On my stainless revolvers I just use a maroon scotchbrite, and then go over it with a green brillo from under the sink. Mothers Mag for a polished finish.

After looking at the photo of the Smith again, it almost looks like they have somekind of painted finish over the aluminum. Haven't a clue how to fix something like that???:confused:

weight the revolver. Aluminum frame it will weight around 17oz maybe 16. SS it will be closer to 21oz.
Actually, the Airweight J frames are only 15oz, not 16 or 17oz. The Aitlite J frames are only 12oz which are extremely light...

After looking at the photo of the Smith again, it almost looks like they have some kind of painted finish over the aluminum. Haven't a clue how to fix something like that???
It's a clearcoat, either an applied finish or clear anodizing and something has gotten under it. That's why it looks like ringworm. It's probably just been sweated on or possibly left a little damp a few times. Kinda like the old forged aluminum wheels on my truck, where the valve stem hole is where the moisture got under the clearcoat and it creeps out from there, just like ringworm. The only solution is to remove the clearcoat, either by chemical means or abrasive blasting media and either leave it bare or refinish it. The grip frame on the Ruger above was bead blasted and left bare 12yrs ago. The pic is no more than two years old and as you can see, it holds up fine with no finish. A polished finish requires a little more maintenance.

archanglecd ok even bigger difference in weight . Idea is the same . Weight the revolver. I have seen a couple range guns, scadimum that the owner cleaned in a sonic cleaner. Killed the finish on the guns. Made them look like cr*p.

What you have is under film corrosion. Based on a web search, I found the term "Filaform" corrosion. Look at the pictures here. http://www.finishing.com/565/93.shtml http://www.corrosionclinic.com/types_of_corrosion/filiform_corrosion_underfilm_corrosion.htm

Call S&W and see if they will refinish your airweight. This type of corrosion could be due to you, or if could be due to an improperly cleaned surface before it was coated.

Incidentally, I have seen this spider web corrosion on factory cartridges which makes me think that some cartridges are coated with something (probably ceresin wax) to keep them bright and shiny on the shelf.

Thanks for everyone's input. I'm going to contact Smith & Wesson on Monday and see if I can send it in to get a refinished.


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Could you keep us updated? I am curious as to the outcome.

Aluminum is not in the same class as pot metals like zinc alloys. The problems with that revolver have nothing to do with aluminum but with the clear coat finish.

Aluminum is not in the same class as pot metals like zinc alloys. The problems with that revolver have nothing to do with aluminum but with the clear coat finish.
Exactly. I have an nickel aluminum model 12-2 that looks like the day it was made and it was produced in 1976. Its not the aluminum its the coating.

Could you keep us updated? I am curious as to the outcome.

Sure, I called S&W today and they will charge $157 to refinish the frame only. Does that sound like a good deal? It's also an 8 week turn-around time. Thanks.



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Also, it's a newer Airweight (2009).

I really like that bare alloy look so maybe I can just get the frame blasted so strip the coating.


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Its a carry gun. Let it be. Just a tool. Or you could get some 1000 grit wet dry and use kroil oil on it and sand it to a polish if you wish.

Actually, the Airweight J frames are only 15oz, not 16 or 17oz.

An x42 does weight 17 oz once you put ammo in it :D . Well, 17.1 with Speer Gold Dot 135 grains to be exact.

Its a carry gun. Let it be. Just a tool. Or you could get some 1000 grit wet dry and use kroil oil on it and sand it to a polish if you wish.

Yeah, for that kinda money I'd just leave it alone. Save that money towards a mint blued model 10, something that looks fantastic to begin with. Even in perfect shape, the 642 isn't the prettiest gun around IMHO.

It's probably just been sweated on or possibly left a little damp a few times. Kinda like the old forged aluminum wheels on my truck, where the valve stem hole is where the moisture got under the clearcoat and it creeps out from there, just like ringworm.

Just curious (not to cause too much thread drift), are those forged alloys on a 90s GM product? My buddy's 93 Tahoe Blazer and my 95 C1500 did the exact same thing. Almost looked like chemical etching.

I would leave it alone, especially since they will put the same finish back on it and you may have the same problem again down the road. peeling of the finish is pretty common on the airweights and airlites.

Good point gentlemen. Thanks for the input.


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Hmmm... Looks like my post disappeared. Last I heard S&W was picking up the tab on finish issues with the Airweights. I think you should call and speak with a manager, seems like a problem with their finish isn't something you should pay for, especially on a new gun.

While I wouldn't spend the $157 on the refinish, I certainly couldn't keep the gun in that condition. Try to get Smith to pick up the tab, if that doesn't work, break out the same paper.

Well I'm not the original owner and the gun was produced in 2009 so the guy said warranty work was out of the question. :(


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Just curious (not to cause too much thread drift), are those forged alloys on a 90s GM product?
Forged aluminum on an `04 Silverado 2500HD. Any aluminum wheel with a clear coat will do it given enough time. Usually happens around the valve stem hole or around a wheel weight when clamped to the outside. Sometimes it just chips around a sharp edge. Something breaches the clearcoat and moisture makes its way in. Mine took 8yrs to get bad enough to be an eyesore but sometimes it happens sooner. Just like on the S&W in question.