Need Advice on Removing 9mm Primer Crimps


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1SOW
June 13, 2012, 10:49 PM
I would like to start using WCC 9mm range brass that has a primer crimp.

I have a drill press, variable speed dremel and several other air and electric rotary tools. I'm good on making various types of jigs.

What's the most practical way to remove those pesky primer crimps--talking many 100's or even by the 1000?

Experienced practical suggestions are much appreciated.

P.S. "WIN" brass is my preferred 9mm brass and has become scarce at my ranges. I've watched people shoot WWB of 100 loose rds that used to be "WIN" brass but is now "WCC " brass with primer crimps.

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bds
June 13, 2012, 11:05 PM
If it is just a few cases, I use the Lee Chamfer tool - a few twists and crimp is gone.

For a lot of cases, bring out the drill and use countersink/large diameter drill bit.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=161643&stc=1&d=1332740129

rondog
June 13, 2012, 11:08 PM
Get one of these from Hornady and put it in a cordless drill. Large and small, they work awesome! Cuts just enough, won't enlarge the pocket any.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b150/rinselman/guns/ammo%20and%20reloading/Hornadycutter.jpg

1SOW
June 14, 2012, 12:17 AM
Thanks bds and rondog! I've never done this because WIN range brass has never been a problem at my ranges until lately.

bds, how deep to chamfer the hole is the question. Trial and error?
I can make a jig under the drill press and set the stops for a given depth.
Pop the case on a rod in a press vise, pull the handle and good-to-go.?

rondog, can you give me the exact diameter of that small end that goes deep into the primer hole? Is that just a guide for the bevel cutter or does it "cut" the crimped area back to full size and then chamfers the top for easy feeding?.

Thanks guys.

bds
June 14, 2012, 01:58 AM
how deep to chamfer the hole is the question. Trial and error?
Yes, for the first few cases but you should get the "hang" of how deep to cut. I use the variable speed cordless drill for greater control (hold case with left hand and drill in right hand but using the drill press will probably give you better control). I just go by how the cut looks but you do need to cut deep enough to remove the narrowed opening of the primer pocket. You may need to initially do some trial-and-error cuts of the primer pocket until the primer seats normally without hanging at the opening.

Here are some deprimed WCC cases.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=166203&stc=1&d=1339653390

Here the crimps were cut with 5/16" drill bit.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=166204&stc=1&d=1339653390

Shown with Winchester SP primers seated just below flush.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=166207&stc=1&d=1339653459

Here's a WCC case cut with Lee Chamfer tool for comparison.
http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=166206&stc=1&d=1339653405

R.W.Dale
June 14, 2012, 02:00 AM
The right Phillip's head driver in the aforementioned cordless drill make an excellent crimp removal tool

RhinoDefense
June 14, 2012, 02:05 AM
Best way to process in bulk is a Dillon 1050. Any other way takes too much time than it's worth.

bds
June 14, 2012, 02:26 AM
Best way to process in bulk is a Dillon 1050. Any other way takes too much time than it's worth.
But the OP asked, "What's the most practical way to remove those pesky primer crimps."

Most of us have drills and drill bits. Only some of us "lucky" ones have Dillon 1050.

blarby
June 14, 2012, 03:06 AM
The "right" Phillips is a #3, btw.

GLOOB
June 14, 2012, 04:57 AM
rondog, can you give me the exact diameter of that small end that goes deep into the primer hole? Is that just a guide for the bevel cutter or does it "cut" the crimped area back to full size and then chamfers the top for easy feeding?.

I have that exact same primer pocket crimp tool in rondog's picture. Yep, it just screws out of the aluminum handle and you can chuck it in a drill. BUT... the end of that thing just scratches up the inside of the pocket, while the angled bit at the base does the actual cutting out of the crimp, as would any chamfer tool or drill bit.

I keep it by the press to ream out the occasional case that needs it, by hand. But when doing a batch of cases, I prefer using a regular chamfer tool in a drill, because it doesn't scratch up the inside of the pockets. I'm intrigued by R.W.Dales phillips screwdriver idea, though. I'll give that a try, next time. A few minutes with a dremel, and I bet I could give it a custom bevel angle and a depth stop. :)

kingmt
June 14, 2012, 05:35 AM
CH4D is $35 TYD. I usually run for about 10 minutes at a rate of 1K an hour. If you can get the kids to do it or even train the dog to do it then it is even easier.

The last 3.5K I did took about 20 minutes of my time. My 3 year old did the rest.

dragon813gt
June 14, 2012, 08:10 AM
I use CH4D's swage tool as well. It screws in like any other die. And works perfectly. It's worth spending the money on if you come across crimps often but not enough to warrant the cost of Dillon's tool.


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dickttx
June 14, 2012, 09:25 AM
I have used WCC 45 cases since the late 60's, and am still using the originals. They were all ran through the RCBS PPS die.
A couple of months ago I wanted to do some 9mm test loads and picked out 25 07/11 cases from my range brass so they would be different. Without thinking, I started priming them, then realized I shouldn't be able to do that. Kept on anyway and never had a single problem setting the primers.
You might check to see if they really need it before you go to a lot of trouble on the pockets.
Haven't used it, but the CH swagger looks to be a reasonably priced way to do larger batches. For just a few the Lee chamfer tool works.

kingmt
June 14, 2012, 09:31 AM
Plus at that price it includes the ram prime. There is also so much less movement required then with the Dillon.

RhinoDefense
June 14, 2012, 10:39 AM
I don't consider myself lucky to have a 1050.

To me, using hand tools for bulk crimp removal is impractical. If the OP is doing it 1,000 at a time, that's beyond the realm of hand tools.

Uniquedot
June 14, 2012, 10:51 AM
I use the Lyman pedestal crank for small lots, but a drill for large lots. I used to use a L.E. Wilson crimp remover and it worked faster, but many claim the RCBS primer pocket swage die is superior to cutters. BTW RCBS has a nice ripoff of the Dillon swager for about eighty bucks.

MikeOBWan
June 14, 2012, 12:25 PM
I have the RCBS swagger die, and I don't like it one bit on 9mm.. I can crank it 3 or 4 times on an S&B 9mm brass and i will still crush the primer when I try to use the brass.

The RCBS swagger die seems to work ok on .223

Gotta be real careful about pinching your fingers also..

Thanks
Mike

mdi
June 14, 2012, 01:21 PM
Being familiar with machine tools, you prolly have a 60 degree countersink laying around. I've used a high speed steel 60 degree counter sink to remove primer pocket crimps and deburr/champher case mouths for several years (since about '87), not the same one of course, but for cutting brass one should last nearly forever...

1SOW
June 14, 2012, 10:07 PM
bds, Thanks for those WCC Pics, it gives me a reference.

dicktx, I can see the crimp, but it IS worth a try to just seat them. Sometimes I tend to look for a "fix" when there's no problem.

I tried a few using a jig on the drill press, but it may be "too precise". The case has to be "perfectly" aligned, which isn't as easy as it sounds. Hand-held lets it self-align.

Hand-held drill or dremel may come next.

Thanks to all for the great responses and workable ideas.

I'll try several--including the phillips bit:D.

gamestalker
June 15, 2012, 02:20 PM
I've been using the press mounted RCBS priming die since I started reloading and haven't ever had to remove those crimped primer pockets. Primers go in with some light, yet noticable resistence, but they go in and have never given me a problem. And on the followig reload cycle, they are barely if at all noticable.

GS

mdi
June 15, 2012, 03:06 PM
No precision involved. The crimps will vary with the brass mfg., and all is needed is to remove enough to seat a new primer. Just eyeball the depth of the cut to see when all crimp (deformed metal around the primer pocket) is removed...

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